LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

DDDD153340aI 



Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
in 201 witii funding from 
Tine Library of Congress 



http://www.ar1iliive.org/details/travelsovertable01gill 




rt Ij, &-ili!= M'^DM'i© M)lfll^ 10)1 i^M'^A ^^MA. 



EX PRESIDENT DF MEXICO. 



TRAVELS 



TJ^E TABLE LANDS AND CORDILLERAS '*' 



# 



•♦ Jr 



MEXICO. 



» 

DURING THE YEARS 1843 AND 44; 



INCLUDIITG ^ 

w 

A DESCKIPTION OF CALIFORNIA, THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND MINING 
DISTRICTS OP THAT REPUBLIC, 



BIOGRAPHIES OF ITURBIDE AND SANTA ANNA. 



BY ALBERT M. GILLIAM, 

LATE V. S. CONSUL TO CALIFORNIA. 



WITH MAPS AND PLATES. 



PHILADELPHIA: "XiJ^ 

JOHN W. MOORE, 138 CHESTNUT STREET. 
LONDON: WILEY & PUTNAM. 
1 846. 







^? 



■A * 



Ejstehei) according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1845, 
BY ALBERT M. GILLIAM, 
in (he Clerk's Office of the District Court, of the Eastern District of 
' Pennsylvania. 

.G^8 






DEDICATION 



To General Waddt Thompson, Late Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 
Plenipotentiary from tRe government of the United States, to the RepvhUc 
of Mexico, 

Esteemed Sir, — 

In publishing the Journal of my Travels in Mexico, I have been 
unable to think of any other than yourself, to whom I would inscribe 
this volume. 

I have done so, not for the reason of your well known fame at home 
and abroad, but from a desire to offer some memorial of the polite at- 
tention and official aid you rendered me while in Mexico. 

In thus dedicating my book, I wish to do honour to myself, by connect- 
ing ray labour to a name, honoured for its learning, talent, steadiness 
and patriotism, rather than to attempt to commemorate your good quali- 
ties ; and however unworthy it may be deemed by those who peruse it, 
the work is to depend upon its own merits, and not upon the writer. 

It is a delicate, and no grateful task to write upon the manners and 
customs of a nation so dissimilar to our own ; and to delineate character 
impartially, and describe whatever was to be seen, ignorant of the lan- 
guage and customs of the people among whom we have so recently so- 
journed, demanding my most assiduous attention and observation^ requir- 
ing often my distrust, and judgment deferred, until confirmed by investi- 
gation and the opinions of intelligent persona, long resident in the coun- 
try. 



jy DEDICATION. 

Mexico has for the last twenty-five years given to the world, names 
conspicuous for deeds of chivalry; and amid the disadvantages of re- 
peated revolutions, the individual would be wilfully blind, who is not 
struck, when beholding those ill-fated people, with the fire of their genius, 
the rapidity of their conceptions, and their love of liberty and indepen- 
dence — worthy of a better fate, but ever destined to be smothered in 
their embers, by the benighting hand of superstition, and the ambition 
of demagogues. May God speed their delivery from these forebodings. 
Whatever Mexico has gained since our residence in that country, 
from the change of power in the deposing of her former dictator, time 
must develope the results to its people, — and in conclusion, esteemed 
sir, permit me to say, in thus dedicating to you my book, that I am, 
Sir, 

With great respect. 

Your obedient servant, 
Albert M. Gilliam. 



PREFACE 



In compliance with the general custom of writing a pre- 
face, it is my desire to say, that I should not publish my 
Travels in Mexico, but for the flattering solicitations of some 
friends. 

My journey in that interesting country, was of long con- 
tinuance. Individuals in Mexico informed rne that it was 
unknown, that persons in a private capacity had ever 
accomplished so great a distance of internal travel at any 
one period; and not unfrequently it happened, that in 
parting with acquaintances, many apprehensions and doubts 
would be expressed of the success of my enterprise. 

Although much has been written upon detached portions 
of Mexico, as seen by other travellers, yet I have written 
with a hope, that a journey of about four thousand miles, in 
a country that has for nearly four hundred years engaged 
the attention of the world, will not be read without exciting 
some interest. 



yj PREFACE. 

The ignorance of the geography of Mexico, has resulted 
from the fact, that no scientific individual has ever traversed 
its extended territories, which w^ould enable him to locate 
rivers and cities, or to describe mountains, valle3rs and 
lakes, — it is from the v^^ant of this knowledge that a map has 
never been taken of Mexico ; and the only one bearing the 
name that can be relied on is that of Baron Humboldt, which 
was in the main sketched from the imagination. I have 
taken care to draw as accurate a map of my travels, as 
my time and observation permitted. 

It is to be regretted, that whilst other countries have in- 
dustriously had their geographical, geological and minera- 
logical surveys, Mexico has remained inert, and satisfied 
with the gloom and ignorance in which the first revolution 
found her — the philosophic stores of her dominions are 
locked up from the world, and only probed here and there 
by foreign research. 

Since my return to the United States, my time has been 
so much occupied that I have not been enabled to devote 
due attention and study to the composition and arrangement 
of my manuscript, but since it has gone forth, I can only re- 
gret, that haste has compelled me to publish its imperfections 
with whatever good qualities it may possess. I fear that 
my knowledge of the Spanish will be sentenced by the clas- 



PREFACE. Vii 

sic eye — yet in apology, I hope I may be excused ; and 
permit me to say, that I have given it in the most grammati- 
cal manner that my limited opportunity of learning it would 
allow. 

My feelings of gratitude will not permit me to conclude 
without expressing my thanks to my friends of Virginia. 
Their generosity I have often had reason to acknowledge. 
The Executive to whom I was introduced, distinguished in 
a nation's confidence and patronage, I shall always cherish. 

I am happy in congratulating my fellow citizens on their 
prosperity; on their possession of a land unequalled in its re- 
sources ; and above all, as they are the only people truly 
enjoying constitutional liberty and freedom of conscience, 
where the laurels of victory unrestrained by power, and 
uncorrupted by gold, deck the brow of the triumphant in the 
great contention of the field of principle. 



'W, 



M' 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

My Jouvnal. The plain and unsophisticated narration of facts is of interest to the reader. 
Incidents as happening the more beautifully and naturally are illustrative of cause and 
eflfect. Commission by President Tyler, as Consul of the Port of San Francisco, Upper 
California, in the Republic of Mexico. Embarked Oct. 15, 1843. Three casualties in < 
three months. First day's travel in the Natural Bridge Stage. Arrived, the 18th instant, 
at Guyandotte, on the Ohio. Voyage down the river, having a view of several States 
of the Union. Arrived at Cincinnati, on the 23d inst. Yellow Fever in New Orleans. 
Determined to spend one week in Cincinnati. Entertained by hearing the Rev. Nich- 
olas Cobbs, D. D., preach. On the 29lh inst. frost at New Orleans. My departure 
from Cincinnati. Steamer James Madison. On the 1st November, beheld the magnificent 
meeting of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. On the night of the 7th inst. arrived in 
sight of New Orleans. Splendid view of the city 17—21 

CHAPTER II. 

Visited Collector of the Port. His kind attention. Engaged passage on the schooner 
Amazon for VeraCi-uz. Reception by the Mate. Destined to lodge in the Ladies' Cabin. 
Confusion of the Mate by the Captain's arrival. His hospitality. Towed by the Arkan- 
sas. Detained by a fog. The tow drifted. The Steamer by a backward revolution 
came stern upon the broadside of the Amazon. Much damage sustained. Capt. Harding 
in a passion. We sail for Balize. The Captain leaves the Amazon and returns with a 
Pilot. We again set sail. Meeting of the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. Cast an- 
chor at the mouth of the Pass. Departure of the Pilot, and his rescue from di'owning. 
Out of sight of land. The Captain's indisposition. A storm at sea. A man lost. View 
of the Perote mountains. A calm. Catching Fish. The Orizava. By telescope viewed 
the port of Vera Cruz. Boarded by a Pilot. Anchored un^er the walls of San Juan de 
Ulloa. Disembarked from the Amazon for the Mole. Novel sights. First night in Vera 
Cruz. Description of Vera Cruz. Healthof Vera Cruz. Northers. - - 22—40 



CHAPTERIII. 

Dined with Mr. Dimond. Description of ruins. Jsla de los Sacrificios. War-god Hui- 
tzilopotchili. The Mexicans believe that the period had arrived for the return of their 
deity. Cannibal priests. Arrival of Cortes. Montezeuma's embassy. Vespus. Marina. 
Arrest of four Americans and two Dutchmen. Spanish treasure. Consent of Santa 
Anna to search for money. Arrest of Capt. Place. Four days in Vera Cruz. De- 
parture from Vera Cruz. The Ladrones. Description of them. Duplicity of the 
Mexicans. Santa Anna's wooden leg. --...-- 41 — 55 

CHAPTERIV. 
At 11 o'clock the diligencia in waiting. Two Mexicans on the back seat. Refusal to give 
it up for a lady. Departure from Vera Cruz. Escort. Sand flies. Drifted sand. 
Large beetle, Cocuyos. Vera Cruz road, the same that Cortes travelled. Tierra ca- 
liente. Varieties of flowers and shrubbery. Sultry heat. Halt of the diligencia at the 
Rancho. The escoi t takes leave. The road paved like a street upwaid of three hun- 
dred miles. President, Emperor and Dictator. Numerous bridges. La Puenta del Ray. 
Breakfast. Romantic and sublime scenery. Santa Anna's new building. First day's 
ride. Wild scenei-y. Tierra templada. Stately forest. Varieties of mnsquite tree. 
Orizava is not a part of the Perote mountains. Grand view of the Orizava. The 

B 



^ CONTENTS. 

counti-y volcanic. Lara. Jalapa. Wealth of the Dictator. The medicine .Talapa. The 
Plaza. The Jadies of Jalapa. Departure from Jalapa. Humid vapours. Houses of 
seeds, sticks and earth, Tfie aborigines. Tomb of an old Spaniard. Picturesque scene- 
ry. The plain of Perote. Andes and Cordilleras. Pastoral counti-y. Pueblos built of 
sun-burnt brick. Roman Catholic house of worship. The haciendas. Ploughs in Mex- 
ico. Two perpetually snow-capped peaks. Arrival at Pueblo. Priests imposing on the 
^O people. Cathedral of Pueblo. The mountains covered with large timber. Arrieros. 
Mules loaded with silver. Valley of Mexico. The promised land. Geography of the 
valley of Mexico, A grand scene. Sterility of soil. Lake region. Hot springs. Vol- 
canic eruptions. The causeway. Environs of Mexico. Lofty steeples. Arrived at the 
city of Mexico on the 26th Nov. Custom-house. Gran Sociedad and Holy Ghost street. 
56—78 

CHAPTER V. 

The Overthrow of Cortes. City of Mexico. Receding of the Lake. View of Holy Ghost 
sti-eet. A large Cliurch. A Mexican Lady. Gen. Thompson's residence. An elegant 
part of the town. The streets of Mexico. Earthquakes. Style of Architecture. The 
city of Mexico. The proportion of a Spanish house. The population of the city of Mex- 
ico. Gen. Thompson's hospitality. Baron La Rook. The Plaza. The Palace. The 
Cathedral. Remarkable Carriages. Basalt Stone. Interior of the Cathedral. Mister 
Officer an American artist. Virgin of Remedios. Tomb of Iturbide. Rarefied air. 
The Convent of San Francisco. The Government Palace, Mint, &c. A general officer 
at the reception door. Capt. Cortes, of the Grenadiers, National Monument. Iturbide's 
Palace. Santa Anna Theatre. Numerous Beggars. Journeymen Beggars. Feats of 
strength. Dress of the Lazarones. ....... 79—93 

CHAPTER VI. 

Visit to the National Museum and University. Bronze statue. Sacrificial stone. Curi- 
osities of savage antiquity. Gallery of paintings. Library room. Museum proper. 
Paintings. Portrait and armour of Cortes. Helmet of Alvarado. Giant of Jalapa. 
A miniature representation of two silver mines. Indian relics. Conchology. Masto- 
don. Santa Anna's portrait. Foi-mer grandeur of the City of Mexico. Montezeuma's 
Menagerie and Aviary. Floating gardens. Visit to Conde Peniaske's private museum. 
Philosophic apparatus. Paintings. Chinese transparencies. Cai-ved picture. Bomb 
shell. Maquey book. Crystallization. Beautiful lady. Feast day of Guadaloupe. 
Ringing of bells and firing of rockets and cannon. Going to mass. F'ags. Picture 
of the Virgin of Guadaloupe. Procession. Joseph, the Infant, the Virgin Mary. The 
multitude embracing the Infant. Origin of the Virgin Guadaloupe. Pueblo of Guada- 
loupe. Village of mounds. Multitude of people at Guadaloupe. Commeicial booths. 
Dealers of Monte. Gambling priests. Roman Catholics of the United States, Europe, 
and Mexico. Habits of the priests. Wealth of the Church of Mexico. - 94— Hi 

CHAPTER VII. 
Return to the City of Mexico. The Theatre. Four Theatres and one Plaza de los Tor- 
res. Audience at the Nuave de Teatro. The ladies. The Plaza de los Torres. Audi- 
ence. Drawing of a Lottery and Bull-fight. Cemetery of Santa Paula. English have 
the right of burial. The Cemetery. The Chapel, Garden. Flowers. Vegetables. 
The Portal Way, Orange and Lemon trees. Rows of boxes. Coffins shoved into 
niches. Gilt Frames. Ornamental Works. Lamps. Mound of human bones. The 
grave-diggers. Monument to Santa Anna's leg. Return from Santa Paula. The youth 
John Hill. The College of Mines. Arrangement of the rooms of the College. The 
Cabinet of Minerals. Models of Machinery. The Observatoi-y. The Observatory pro- 
per. Baron Humboldt. Splendid View. Chapel. Politeness of John Hill. Gaming' 
I'oom. Gambling. Influence of Money. Public opinion. Whitewashing the houses. 
Feats of daring of the Blexicans. 112—127 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Ramble in the Alemade. Circles, fountains and statues. Names of Hidalgo and Iturbide. 
The carriages, walks and crowds of ladies with their fans. The Pasio. Fountains of 
water. Statues of the Azetic gods. Carriages passing up and down. The Cavaliers. 
The management and trappings of the horses. A walk without the walls of the city. 
Beautiful country scenes. Christmas-day in Mexico. Grand mass celebrated at the 



CONTENTS. ■ 

cathedral. Crowds of people in the Plaza. Merchandise of the hucksters. Confused 
scene. Brokers. Night. Pine torches. Intoxication by drinking pulque. Narrow 
escape. The cathedral crowded. Grand mass. Raising of the Holy Ghost. Splendid 
view of the richness of the cathedral. Reflections. The services of the cathedral last 
all night. Mexican ladies. Premature debility. Paris fashions. The social habits of 
the ladies. Courtship by letters. Gentlemen in disguise. Ostentation at the theatre 
and pasio. An English lady. Rebozoes. Los ire. Festivities of Christmas-day. 
The dictator, pro tem., and suite. Yankee driver. The big show. Plaza de los Tor- ,. 
ros. Human affairs. News of a British fleet. Mr. Doil, the British charge de affaires. <**" 
Suspended relations of the tvvo powers. False alarm. British jack on the plaza. 128-^141 



CHAPTER IX. 
Indisposition of some of the Deputies. A failure of a quorum. The Deputies installed. 
Speech of Canalizo. Reply of Ximenes. Celebration of the installation. How things 
are done in Mexico. Worship of the Golden Sun. Firing of cannon. Splendid illumi- 
nation of the Cathedral and Plaza. Installation of the President elect. Canalizo, the 
proxy of Santa Anna. Celebration of the installation of the President. Tlie worship of 
the Christian, a happy exchange for the native. Grand parade of all the military. My 
stay in the city of Mexico. If the will of the people was known. Mr. Green gave me 
notice not to leave the city. Copy of the secret order. Detei-mined to take the advice 
of Gen. Thompson. Gen. Thompson's negotiation. My opinion. Mexican persecu- 
tion. Two Americans imprisoned at Guymas. Who are the Mexicans ? Union of the 
European and Indian blood. Comparative difference cf the Christian and Savage wor- 
ship. Mild disposition of the Mexican. Love of country. The Mexicans are a motley 
race. Solemnity and sadness of countenance. Mexican politeness. Confidence in no 
one who cannot blush. ----..... 142—159 

CHAPTER X . 
Climate of the Valley of jNIexieo. The climate of the Republic of Mexico. Plains without 
Mater. Artificial dams. Monopoly of Agriculture. Interference of the law. Landed 
estates of Mexico. Table of population. Wealth of the inhabitants. Majority of the 
people in poverty. Different castes. Want of confidence. Previous to the revolution. 
The golden age. Embezzlement of Canalizo. Products of the Mines. Solvency of 
Mexico. Forced loans. Anecdote. The people 'of Mexico easy to govern. A correct 
idea of the ministry of Mexico. Capt. Coin. Deformity in Church as in State. My in- 
tentions. Th€ Bishop bribed. Matrimony. ...... 160—169 



CHAPTER XI. 

Gratitude to T. Dueoine. Left the city of Mexico the 8th January. A Mexican passen- 
ger. Attempted conversation. Chocolate. Arrangements. My first day's journey. 
Extensive plain. Mountain scenery. Volcanic eruptions. Valleys divested of forest. 
The soil generally shallow. The rocks. Haciendas. Stone walls. Orgono hedges. 
Fields without enclosiu-e. The manure of a hacienda. Splendid scenery. No improved 
roads north. Natural ways. Mijieo. Dined at Cula. Description of Dinner. Chili. 
My first night's lodging. When day dawned. Table land. Arroyo Zarco. The mo- 
ther of the driver. Fast driving. Cross-bar broke. Ladrones. San Juan del Rio. 
Conversation and smoking of two Mexicans. View of Gueretero. Aqueduct. A priest 
and the revolution. A walk at night. Plaza lights. Lost. Guitar. Moonlight. 
Starlingof the diligencia. Ladrones. Escape. Celaye. Monument. Mexicans dress- 
ed as Indians. The Pope and the Catholic religion. Three Spaniards of old Spain. 
Language. Politeness. Landlord. Cotton goods. Third day's travel. Guanajuato. 
Darkness of the night. Dinner. Night's ramble in the street. Visit to Mexican ladies. 
Conversation and entertainment. Departure from Guanajuato. Mines of Guanajuato. 
Magnificent present. Detection of fraud in the Mint. Level country. Siloa. Leon. 
Arrival at Lagos. Lake region. Loss of sleep. Settlements with my Mexican friend. 
Waked up alone. Chocolate. Letter of introduction. My difficulty. Fruitless efforts 
to be understood. Fortunate arrival of a Mexican. Attention of the inhabitants. Doct. 
Tesus Anaya. Interpreter. A large party of travellers. A party of Americans. Ap- 
pearance of the travellers. Tyler's message to Congress. Manner of warfare upon Mex- 
ico. No want of water at Lagos. Vegetables and fruits. Bathing. Walk. Paintings 



Xil 



CONTENTS. 



of the houses. American negro. Practice of medicine in Mexico. Angel Gabriel. 
Simon's wounds. The evening of the second day. Arrival of the diligencia. An Ame- 
rican passenger. Proposed journey 170—195 



CHAPTER XII. 

Departure from Lagos. Chocolate, cups, knives and forks. An American for my 
companion. The new plain called La Villita. The polite Frenchman. The plain 
of La Villita. Having arrived at La "Villita. In towns in Mexico. Public houses 
called Mesons. Furniture. Spanish Caritalia. My misfortune. Hire a bed for the 
night. Fondi. Cook-shop. The rent of the room. La Vilhta. Departure. Roads, 
bridges and ways. Wheeled Vehicles. Ancient customs. The hacienda Pennueles. 
The extensive fields. An artificial lake. Arguas Calientas, Palace of the CondeGuad. 
aloupe. We were foreign padres. Extravagant charges. Italian Opei-a company. The 
city of Arguas Calientas. Churchts, priests, and soldiers. The case of the white Jack 
and the people. Decision of the Judge. American wagons. Pleasing sight. The 
difference between Mexican and American wagons. The Moors who invaded Spain. 
Our day's journey. Dust, wind. The skin. Display of badges. Our I'ide for the most 
of the day. Corn-field. At San Jacinto. The Indians. The body-guard. Garrisons 
of disciplined regulars. Conjectures of the people. Volunteers of the Army. Her Bri- 
tannic Majesty conquering Mexico. Servants sleeping on the hai'd, cold pavement. The 
American servants. Remarks to the Secretary of American Legation. Hot sun. South- 
west winds. Dishonest and barbarous habits. The more polished circles. Swindlei-s, 
thieves and murderers. John Randolph. Gentlemen of character above suspicion. 195—214 



CHAPTER XIII. 
Del Refugio. Flock of sheep. Th^ hacienda Paras. Ascending the Plain. The Mexi- 
cans in the fields. Vein of silvei- on the surface. Abundance of silver ore. Laws of 
Mexico on Mining. The principal vein of silver. The appearance of tlie range of 
Mountains. A large Convent. High wall. Don Garcear's g^-anary. Battle-ground. 
General Andrade Santa Anna. Colonel Harcourt's defeat of the Zacateeans. Santa Anna 
flushed with pride. Conquest of the United States and Texas. Napoleon of America, 
First view of Zacatecas. The streets. Meson. The American my interpreter. An Irish 
gentlemen. Many public buildings. La Parroquia Convento de Muestro Senoi-a del 
Petrocenis. The Saint. Locatiim of the resident Saint. Subject of divinity. Govern- 
ment Palace. Spanish Marquis. Child christened. The Mint of Zacateeas. Mr. John 
Scott. Mexican horse. Hacienda de Beneficio Santa Clement. Cultivated gardens. 
Water from the Mines. Bags of hides. Ropes of hide. Shafts of the Mines. The ore 
yards. Labourers. Captains. Specimens of silver ore. Native silver. Reflections. 
The eminence of Santa Clement. Mountain and Valley Scenery. Machine for pulveri- 
zing are. One thousand bushels of ore. Washing the ore. Examinations of the labour- 
ers. Thefts. The blackleg. - - - 215—233 



CHAPTER XIV. 
Zacateeas. Cargo animals and cartera. Much disappointment. The hotel. Meson de la 
Callede Tacuba. Confined atmosphere. Fire-places and stoves. Ice-creams. Ice-makers. 
Objections to the meson. Poor fare. Mules. Fleas. Mexicans do not kill fleas. New 
home, No. 43. English and American citizens. John Bull. Minor nobles. Merit- Love 
of country. Americans Mexicanised. Lion and the unicorn. Society of Zacateeas. Party 
of Americans. Indian news. Bold resolve. Narrow streets. Buried money. Romance 
of buried silver. Catholic country. Tolling of bells. My servant. Region of day. Mex- 
ican mesons. Mexicans do not dine altogether. Spanish gentleman. Conversation. 
Mexican lands. Unmasked myself, U. S. and Mexico. California. Oppression of Ame- 
ricans. Justice of my conclusions. From the position of Zacateeas- Mexico a country of 
great extent. Sohcitude of Gen. Thompson. Pleased with the face of the country. AUe- 
made of Zacateeas. Monument to Signor Don Francisco Garceraer. Dr. Jenkins. Pri- 
soners. Public improvements in Mexico. Punishment of crime. Penitentiary system. 
Pi'ooession of the host. Prostration of the people. A friar and his sheep. Burial of the 
dead. Nephew of Col. Wilcox. System of the Mexican government. Iron of Zacate- 
eas. Revenue of the country. Ward the dictator. Want of fuel. U. S. and Mexican 
manufactures. Competition. - -- 234—252 



CONTENTS. 

Xlll 



CHAPTERXV. 
My interpreter. Acquainieil my interpreter with the knowledge I possessed. His remon- 
strance. Should depart in two days. Letter of introduction to Mv. John Kimble. Let- 
ters of introduction. Departed from Zaeatecas. Caratilla. Unmanageable mule Ma- 
lanoche, the (bad night mountain.) Upsetting of caratilla. My ribs injured and inter- 
preter's collar-bone broken. Confusion. Retrograde motion. No. 43. Interpreter not 
able for fatigue. My resolve. Second departure from Zaeatecas. Demanded mv cash 
Money missing. Money found. My journey. March to Frisnillo. Ride in a Sp.iuiq'h sad- 
dle. House of Mr. Kimble. Opinions of Mr. Kimble. Egregiously imposed upon Re- 
commends an interpreter. Hacienda de la Benefieio Minerale. Expenses. Crushing ma- 
chine, Gnnding-mill. Great square. Quicksilver. Copper bell. Silver cast in solid 
lumps. Mint. Weighing of the metal. The mines of Zaeatecas and Frisnillo Took 
leave of Mr. Kimble. Lost. Encounter with a Mexican. Two young men. My trou- 
bles. Coffee. Mr. K. and my interpreter. Interpreter an intelligent man. Departure 
from Frisnillo. Grotesque appearance. A band of robbers. Bones bleached on the 
plains. Uneasiness of my interpreter. Bound to Sain Alto.- Become used to a Spanish 
saddle. Threw myselffrom my mule. Exchange saddles. Alcalde's cane. Adminis- 
tration of oaths. Sufferings increased. Eat heartily of Chili. Sain Alto. Dinner 
Chocolate. Settlement of bill. Quarrel. Warm country. Maquey. Pulque. Thi'-e 
men upon the plain. My gloves. Table-land. A nipple of a mountain. Narrow defile 
Sombrereto. Demanded water. Mule knocked the tumbler. - - . 253—270 

CHAPTERXVI. 
What direction I would take. Departure from Sombrereto. Under much excitement. 
Fatigue, hunger and thirst. Hacienda Campus de les Bluleros. Small red wolves. 
Sheep. Great house. Refused admittance. Hospitality of a young Mexican. His" 
wife. Paixham balls. Diversion. Countrymen in pursuit of a lawyer. Understanding 
of right and wrong. Servants feet locked under a mule. Manv small streams. Unsat 
tisfied thirst. Mexicans never wash when travelling. La Ponta.' Proceed to San Casan. 
Arms discharged. My duty. Corpses of two men. Travel 1400 miles. River. Iron 
funiace. The city of Durango. De la Santa Paula meson. Breakfast. De Cadena 
Casa. My walk. Two plazas. Fire arms. The Allemade of the city of Durango. 
The Convento of the patron Saint. Durango, a Bishopric. One of the nine mints. My 
servant's comparisons of coins. A retired part of the Allemade. Reflections. Vale of 
delusion. Civil without religious liberty. Tom Paine. Thomas Jefferson. The great 
silence of Mexican towns. Ruin of 400 houses. Dinner. Mr. James More and an Eng- 
lishman. . Snap of a pistol. Narrow escape of life, Mr. German Stalknit. His mistake. 
Letters of introduction. Signor Don Fernando Remizes. Hospitality. Reflections. 
Dwelling of Remizes. Furniture. Libraries of the ex-Deputy. His character. Suffr-a- 
ges for President. Introduction. Liberality. History of the United States. Alicraus. 
Harcourt. Courtesy of the Governor of Durango. Mr. John Belden. The people of 
Durango. Bishop of Durango. The Bishop's character. Cotton manufacture of the 
Stalknits. College of Durango. Education. Change of dress. Best of arms. To Bi- 
vouac. A tent. Letters of introduction from the Governor. Remizes. Ten loads of 
=•'«■'■• 271-291 

C H AFTER XVII. 
Journey commenced. Camino Real. Cacario. Dining and sleeping. Separation from the 
conductor. Splendid view of the valley Guatemepe. Animals feeding on the plain 
Distance on the table-land deceiving. Despatched my guide to secure lodgings. Countess 
of Guatemepe. Her hospitality. Prayers and a dance. Departure for Chinacates. Indian 
news. Dissatisfaction wiUi my interpreter. My guide's rebellion. Disagreeable journey 
Arrival at Chinacates. Six-barrel pistols. Ridge of the mountain. Conversed with an 
Englishman. Mexican artizans. A New Englander. Disgraceful transaction. Santa 
Argo. Indians committing depredations. Reflections. Solicitude for my men. Conver- 
sation with my interpreter. San Dilla. An old Mexican account of the Indians. Excite- 
ment in the village. My servant Marcelino. Advice of friends. Jly own deportment. 
Several small villages. Two mountains. Want of men at Catarine. Indians who had killed 
many travellers. Six mules loaded with dead men. Boca the mouth. Notice not to pro- 
ceed farther. Some days delay at the Boca. Departure from the Boca. Madie Montes. 
Separation from company. Bivouac. Battle at night. JNIarch for Caneles. Recovered 



XIV 



CONTENTS. 



from injuries. Battle in the day. Death of an Indian. None of my men killed. Pursued 
my journey. Mountain scenery and travelling. Early history of the country. Frost. 
Reach Caneles. Curiosities and freaks of nature. The Madre Montes. Despatched my 
guide to engage lodgings. Disappointment. Stake my tent. My interpreter complains. 
His suspicions. Proposition to me. My refusal. Buckled on my belt. Fell asleep. Mar- 
celino. The ascent of the next mountain. Dreadful suspicion cf my interpreter. Stu- 
pendous scenes of nature. White bear. A mountain that overlooked the others. Like 
Balboa beheld the Pacific. Extensive sublimity. Distant view of Caneles. Two little 
boys. Departed brother, 292 — 3U 

CHAPTER XV III. 

My first object. An American living at Caneles. Interested with my voice. Develop- 
ment made by Marcelino.. Mineral of Caneles. Sublime view of the scenery of Cane- 
les. i The climate of Caneles. Mountains abound with silver. Quicksilver of Caneles. 
Mr. John Buehan, governor of an English company. Disease of goitre. Doctor Eberle. 
Feelings of myself. Did not repose at Caneles. Journey down the Caneles river. View 
of mountain scenery. All nature in Mexico at war. Mule more sapient than a horse. 
The town of Topie. Planting corn. Emerge from between two Cerroes. View of open 
si)ace beautiful. Species of birds. Remarkable account of the love of an Indian woman. 
Arrived at Tamazula. President Victoria. Hospitality of the Prefect and Curate. Chil- 
dren of priests. Tamazula river. Uniaya i-iver. Culiaean river. Town of Cosala. 
Mazatalan. A voyage from China. Fish and oysters. Guadaloupe de Calvo. English 
silver mines. Mountains abound in silver. Mineral of Refugio. Return to the mineral 
of Caneles. Inhabitants of the hot and cold regions. Difference of temperature of the 
Pacific and Atlantic coasts. Departed from Caneles for Guanosebi. Unintelligible con- 
versation. Met with Mr. Buehan at Guanosebi. Moon-shine in Mexico. A general, a 
priest, and a lawyer. Santa Anna's hacienda campus. Mexican attachment. 312— 331 



CHAPTER XIX. 
Return to Caneles. Apache Indians. Two small boys of tender years. Commence my re- 
turn journey. Manage two men better than three or six. Pioneer round my camp. The 
Madre Monte pass. Lad rones on the way. How to know ladrones. Received at Duran- 
go. Mr. Charles E. Bowes. An individual who has been long from home. Two new ser- 
vants. Departure from Durango. Jly servants not good packers. Arrived at the hacienda 
campus de la Casa Blanca. Irrigating dam of water. Corn-field. Pastoral lands. Spec- 
ulation in old horses. Purchased two pack-mules. A mule runs away. A nearer and better 
route. Storm, and hospitality of a Mexican. Wet condition of my cargo. Descending to 
a lower region. Distress and hazard. Slept in a separate rancho. A signal given. Defeat 
of contemplated attack. Arrived at the mineral town of Matehanla. Discharged my ser- 
vants. Wealthy Mexican. An American. Summons before the Alcalde. The law-suit 
determined. Second summons before the Alcalde. Presentation of ray commission. News- 
paper from the U. S. Texians. President Tyler. An old Spaniard. His daughter. Fruits 
and vegetables. - - - - - -- - • - 332—347 



CHAPTER XX. 
Arriei-os. Departure from Matehaula. Old Spaniaixl and my American friend. Picture of 
the crucifixion. Beyond the confines of the town. Rancho in the defiles of two mountains. 
Opening of the earth. My servants diligent and faithful men. Rolling and wooded coun- 
trj'. One of my men a merry little fellow. Expertness with the lasso. Aherera a Spanish 
Jesuit. Arrived at the town of Tola. Fertile and hilly country. A mountain cross. A hilly 
and well-watered valley. Splendid scenery. A grotto, the residence of a saint. Servants 
dismount. A saint of Socono. The rainy season. Occasional rains. Arrived at Tam- 
pieo a Santa Anna. Custom-house officer. Meson kept by Mons. Constant Marcuet, 
Meeting with Mr. John Fulton. Situation of Tampico. Houses and plazas. Santa 
Anna's victory. Capt. F. Chase, U. S. Consul. Texas, question of the next session. An- 
nexation of ujjper California. Columbia river. Rail-road to New Orleans. Napoleon. 
An examination of the map. Public lands. Monopoly of commerce. Different connex- 
ions. Annexation of Mexico. Southern boundary of the U. S. No limit to the north. 
Hudson bay and Mississippi rail-road. Home protection. Free trade. Russian pos- 
sessions, -i.... 348—362 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXI. 
A parting word to the Airieios. Captain of Banditti. The American flag at the mast-head 
of a schooner. Drive a bargain with the captain. Meeting at the consul's. Contract 
concluded. Returning home in an American vessel. British steamer. Set sail. MoulK 
of the river. Custom-house officer. The vessel searched. Officers take leave. Pilot 
takes us in tow. Narrowly escaped foundering. Captain no gentleman. Injuries sus- 
tained by my fellow-countrymen. Unhappy feelings. Resolve. Same way of defending 
myself at sea as on land. The captain alarmed. Mr. Fulton's enjoyment. Dazzling 
luminary of the light-house. Watched all night. Anchored off the Balize. Embarkat 
tion in a small boat. Perilous voyage. The steamers that are met at the Balize. Put 
to sea. Rudder lost. The southerner. Consternation. X. E Pass Steamer 
I'J"^'"''- - - 363-370 

APPEND IX . 

View of Oregon. Description of Upper and Lower California, with a map of those countries 

Biographies of the Emperor Don Augustin Iturbide, and the Ex-Dictator Antonio Lopez 

De Santa Anna, comprising rapid outlines of the political history of Mexico and the 

Texiau Revolution. . . . ^-n ^cc 



1 



-,lc-^ 



■>^ 






Ci"- 



,r'f' 



1^ 



c^J? 



.9S 



St/ 



4 



''^''■r7rjJad<-!f 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER I. 

My Journal. The plain and unsophisticated narration of facts is of interest to the reader. 
Incidents as happening the more beautifully and naturally are illustrative of cause and 
effect. Commission by President Tyler, as Consul of the Port of San Francisco, Upjier 
California, in the Republic of Mexico. Embarked Oct. 15, 1843. Tlivee casualties in 
three months. First day's travel in the Natural Bridge Stage. Arrived, the 18th instant, 
at Guyandotte, on the Ohio. Voyage down the river, having a view of several States 
of the Union. Arrived at Cincinnati, on the ?3d inst. Yellow Fever in New Orleans. 
Determined to spend one week in Cincinnati. Entertained by hearing the Rev. Nich- 
olas Cobba, D. D., preach. On the 29th inst. frost at New Orleans. My departure 
from Cincinnati. Steamer James Madison. On the 1st November, beheld the magnificent 
meeting of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. On the night of the 7th inst. arrived in 
sight of New Orleans. Splendid view of the city. 

Having, with care, kept my Journal, from the day of my 
departure from home, I shall, therefore, give it to the world 
in the style of the original manuscript. 

The plain, unsophisticated narration of facts, as at the 
moment noticed by the traveller, I have presumed to be not 
only the more intelligible to all, but of greater interest to the 
general reader. <% 

The studied systern that some have aimed at, by an over- 
cultivation of elegancy of diction and " far-fetched" clas- 
sical illustrations, have often failed to entertain more than 
the concise, connected history of incidents, which always 
the more beautifully and naturally illustrate " cause and ef- 
fct," and thus, by intuition, guide " the mind's eye" of the 
peruser to see as the tourist beheld. 

With such views I shall endeavour to avoid isolation, not 
with the hope of pleasing the imagination, and affording a 
banquet to the mind — but of offering that solid fund of in- 
2 



jg TRAVELSIN MEXICO. 

formation and improvement to the examiner, by a detail of 
facts that he had most fondly hoped for. 

Having been commissioned by his Excellency President 
Tyler, Consul of the Port of San Francisco, Upper Cali- 
fornia, in the Republic of Mexico, and having been pre- 
sented with the accustomed documents and despatches to 
the resident Minister of the American Legation at the city 
of Mexico, I, v^^ithout delay, bade adieu, on the 15th of Oc- 
tober, 1843, to many friends, and the place of my nativity, 
Lynchburg, Va., for New Orleans, the distant port of my 
embarkation. 

Being by nature of a domestic predominancy of habit, I 
ever had an aversion to long journeys, the more especially 
by stage coaches ; for it almost invariably happened that, 
whenever I attempted that mode of travel, some misfortune 
would of consequence befall, for the occurrences of horses 
by fright running down hills and precipitous mountains, and 
in some instances upsetting in terrific ways ; from which, 
although my life has been spared, yet often left me with 
bruised and mangled limbs. Indeed, the several casualties 
of three overturnings in stage coaches, the running off of 
the cars from a railroad track, and a storm at sea, in a 
steamboat, off the coast of Cape Hatteras, and that too all 
in the short space of three months, had almost impi'essed 
my mind with presentiments of dangers to be encountered 
by travelling. 

However, my first day's travel on my way to the West, 
was a very pleasant one, in the Natural Bridge stage : it 
thus continued until the evening of the 18th inst., when *[ 
arrived at the town of Guyandotte, on the Ohio river ; and, 
as I followed my baggage on board of a steamboat that was 
in waiting for passengers, and ascended its upper deck to 
take a last look at the distant mountains of my native State, 
over which I had so recently passed, and which were then, 
amidst volumes of smoke, and the harsh sonorousness of 
escaping steam, fast receding from view, my bosom was 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J9 

enlivened with feelings which were never before felt, and 
my mind could not but be filled with admiration and many 
reflections, as I voyaged down the beautiful river for the 
first time, beholding upon both sides different States of the 
Union. 

Upon my arrival at Cincinnati, on the 22d inst., I was 
informed by passengers who had just arrived at that place 
from New Orleans, that the yellow fever, notwithstanding the 
lateness of the season, was yet raging in that city, insomuch 
that it would be considered very hazardous for one from 
so far north as I was, to venture, where disease and death 
were devastating the place. I therefore determined to 
spend one week in the pleasant city of Cincinnati, the famed 
" Queen of the West." 

Whilst at Cincinnati, my time was engaged with much 
interest during my stay ; and I may also add that a portion 
of it was profitably as well as agreeably entertained, by 
hearing the Rev. Nicholas Cobbs, D. D., of the English 
• Episcopal denomination, preach at his church of Saint 
Paul's. Dr. Cobbs is a native of Bedford county, Virginia, 
and during his residence there I had often heard his impres- 
sive eloquence. But the reverend clergyman having been 
called to minister in holy things in the city of Cincinnati, 
without my knowledge, I cannot express my felicitous en- 
joyment, upon the eve of my embarking to a strange land, 
seated as I then was, under the voice of one whose piety 
I so much respected, inviting me in sweet tones, and in 
manner and language the most persuasive, to the realms of 
bliss. 

On the morning of the 29th instant, news having reached 
Cincinnati that welcome Jack Frost had visited the city 
of New Orleans, I found hundreds who like myself had but 
impatiently awaited tidings of that hoary benefactor of the 
human species, previous to embarking for that port — for with 
him for our pioneer, we could with bold hearts penetrate 
the lower country, as pestilence and death always fled 



20 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

from his cold and purifying touch. I therefore, without de- 
lay, hastened on board the James Madison, a boat of the 
first class, Captain J. Fulton, master, bound for New Or- 
leans, which, by the early hour of 10 o'clock, A. M., had all 
of its state rooms taken ; and, when night came, there was 
scarcely room upon the cabin floor for weary passengers to 
repose their bodies. 

My journey again commenced upon the deep, expansive, 
and lengthened Ohio. It was with feelings of much grati- 
fication that, upon the 1st day of November, at Cairo, I for 
the first time beheld one of the sublimest scenes to be wit- 
nessed in America — the majestic meeting of the great Ohio 
and the Mississippi rivers ; and, as I looked upon the union 
of the waters of the West, which were in one common an- 
gry and turbulent element beneath me, rushing on with 
maddening fury to a vast and common home in the mighty 
deep, my mind could but be, in the spectacle, taught a les- 
son of the onward tendency of all things ; for man, with 
accumulated years, and with many tributary cares, is too 
rapidly, with an irresistible career, floating downwards to 
the vast ocean of eternity. 

On the night of the 7th inst., the James Madison arrived 
in sight of the city of New Orleans, a distance of about 
two thousand miles from the port of Guyandotte, Va. I 
could but consider my arrival at that city, at that late hour, 
fortunate, as New Orleans cannot be seen under a more fa- 
vourable aspect, than by approaching it under the cover of 
darkness. I beheld, as the boat rapidly advanced, an exten- 
ded quarter of a circle, of about two miles in length, thickly 
lined with the floating palaces of the West, and then with 
the shipping from all parts of the world. The steamboats 
a blaze of light from stem to stern — some letting off their 
steam with deafening noise, whilst some were extinguishing 
their fires with hissing sounds, as the water was thrown upon 
the red hot brands under the boilers ; whilst, at the same 
time, lights from the decks and the cabin windows of the 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. -21 

shipping, extended an illumination, until it was lost in distant 
littleness ; from which lurid glare Jack tar, with merry laugh 
and song, could be seen and heard furling his sail and tacklcj 
above the shouts of porters, and the rattling of drays and 
hacks; when far above the levee, the innumerable lights of 
the tall houses of the city, shed a halo of brilliancy over a 
scene the equal of which I had never before beheld, and 
which, when taken altogether, really presented to the eye a 
magnificent crescent, adorned with sparkling scintillating 
gems. And thus, most apropos, has the city of New Or- 
leans been denominated the " Crescent City." 



22 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER 11. 

visited Collector of the Port. >His kind attention. Engaged passage on the schooner 
Amazon for Vera Cruz. Reception by the Mate. Destined to lodge in the Ladies' Cabin. 
Confusion of the Mate by the Captain's arrival. His hospitality. Towed by the Arkan- 
sas. Detained by a fog. The tow drifted. The Steamer by a backward revolution 
came stern upon the broadside of the Amazon. Much damage sustained. Capt. Harding 
in a passion. We sail for Balize:. The Captain leaves the Amazon and returns with a 
Pilot. We again set sail. Meeting of the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. Cast an- 
chor at the mouth of the Pass. Departure of the Pilot, and his rescue from drowning. 
Out of sight of land. The Captain's indisposition. A storm at sea. A man lost. View 
of the Perote mountains. A calm. Catching Fish. The Orizava. By telescope viewed 
the port of Vera Cruz. Boarded by a Pilot. Anchored under the walls of San Juan de 
Ulloa. Disembarked from the Amazon for the Mole. Novel sights. First night in Vera 
Cruz. Description of Vera Cruz. Health of Vera Cruz. Northers. 

On the morning of the 8th of November, I, without de- 
lay, visited Mr. Dorsey, the Collector of the Customs at 
the Port of New Orleans, a gentleman with whom I had to 
transact some public business. And here I cannot refrain 
from saying that Mr, Dorsey, who had then been but recent- 
ly appointed Collector, had, by his indefatigable industry, 
won the esteem of all who had done business with him ; and 
for the interest he exhibited in forwarding me in my prepa- 
ration for my journey to Mexico, I shall ever feel grateful. 

Through Mr. D. I was informed that the schooner Ama- 
zon was the only vessel in port taking in freight, bound for 
Vera Cruz, and would sail upon the evening of the 9th inst. 
I therefore did not hesitate, through the house of Messrs. 
Capdervill & Cucullu, who were owners of the schooner, 
to secure my passage; and having completed all of my 
other arrangements in the city, I accordingly, upon the eve- 
ning of the 9th, that having been the appointed time for the 
sailing of the Amazon, sent my baggage aboard of her, 
where I soon followed. 

Upon my arrival on deck of the little vessel, for it was 
only of ninety tons burthen, the captain being absent, the 



-TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



23 



mate, a stupid looking fellow, conducted me into the cabin, 
a place six feet by ten in size ; and, as I have since imagined, 
fearing that he would have to give up his own berth to 
either myself or some other passengers of the Amazon, 
at once inquired of me if I had consulted the captain as to 
where I was to sleep ; at the same time pointing to the right 
hand, and saying that that was the captain's berth, and in- 
forming me that that was his, to the opposite, on the left. 
After thanking the mate for his kind intelligence, and decli- 
ning all intention of depriving either himself or the captain 
of their berths, he then invited me into the aft cabin, or 
ladies' apartment, as he called it, at the same time showing 
me a low small door on the left, whilst he proceeded to open 
one on the right. I accepted his invitation, by stooping 
about one half, and passing through the door to the stern of 
the schooner. The kind and poHte mate unnecessarily in- 
vited me to take a seat, for it was impossible to have oc- 
cupied any other than an inclined or sitting posture. The 
mate having located himself opposite to me, in a m.ost ludi- 
crous manner began to expostulate upon the mode of sea 
travelling, and was winding up his lucid and, as he thought, 
interesting description of a life upon the sea, by informing 
me that the apartment we then occupied was the most desi- 
rable of any aboard the vessel, and was exclusively designed 
for the ladies ; although at the moment I could not discover 
a particle of bed or bedding, but, to the contrary, the little 
place seemed to be crammed with kegs of crackers, demi- 
johns, old clothing, besides many other articles of ship 
stores ; and as the mate was continuing to say, that, as he 
had no doubt but that I was a gentleman, he should not, on 
his part, hesitate to put me in with the ladies, if there should 
be any, to take passage on board of the Amazon. How- 
ever, it happened that just at that moment, when I had con- 
cluded that I was destined to be obliged to lodge with the 
ladies, in so small a chamber, the good and merry little Cap- 
tain Harding came hastily down the stairway of the gen- 



24 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

tiemen's cabin, and called aloud for his mate in a true 
seamanlike manner. Mr. Holmes appeared to be. as much 
alarmed as confused, and hesitatingly responded to his su- 
perior officer ; and as the mate was making his exit from 
the ladies' apartment into the gentlemen's cabin, the cap- 
tain demanded the reason of his coming out of that place? 
when Mr. Holmes informed him that he was only showing 
one of the passengers the berths of the ladies' cabin, so that 
he might make choice of one previous to any of them com- 
ing on board. Capt. Harding seemed to be exasperated at 
what the mate had said — and remarked, that the ladies, 
dear things, had always been welcome to his berth, as it 
was the best aboard the Amazon. " There, Sir," turning 
to myself, who by this time was standing in the gentle- 
men's cabin, " you shall have my berth, Sir, as it has the 
only good feather bed aboard, and I shall sleep in yours, 
mate : so that yo.u had better be looking out in time for a 
choice berth in the ladies' cabin, hah !" Capt. Harding then 
called his steward, and ordered him to spread the table 
with wines, sardines, cheese, crackers, and cigars; and a 
jolly time myself and Mr. Duncan, who had by this time 
arrived, and the only other passenger, had with the merry 
little Captain Thomas Harding. 

It was not until 5 o'clock in the evening, that the steamer 
Arkansas took the Amazon in tow. The steamer had at 
each side of her a large ship, and the Amazon constituted 
the sixth in number of the schooners that were fastened by 
long cables to the stern of the Arkansas. The tow having 
then secured its full complement of^vessels^ it proceeded 
down the Mississippi river; and a hard time we had of it, 
for we had not been under way more than two hours be- 
fore the fog became so dense that the tow had to cast an- 
chor, and was unable to make head before daylight the 
following morning, when we raised steam and started; 
but again, at 9 o'clock in the evening, we were stopped 
by the fog, being about twenty-five miles from the Balize ; 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



25 



and at half-past 6 o'clock, on the following morning, the 
mate of the Amazon, Mr. Holmes, informed the mate of 
the Arkansas that the tow was adrift, and told him to get 
steam up as soon as possible ; and owing to the mismanage- 
ment of the tow-boat, in the hurry and alarm of the mo- 
ment, a backward revolution was given to the wheel, which 
caused the steamer and one of the ships to come astern 
upon our broadside, and crowded the Amazon hard upon 
the bank, which broke our starboard rail abreast the main- 
mast, and four of the stauncheons and bulwarks, strained 
our main rigging, broke our larboard cat-head bow-rail, 
carried away our jib-stay, and caused us to sustain several 
other lighter damages forward. As for myself, I had not 
at that hour arisen, yet from the forcibleness of the con- 
cussion of the tow against our vessel, I was violently 
thrown from my berth on to the floor of the cabin, where 
indeed I did not tarry, but recovering myself I hastened 
on deck, where luckily I had just arrived in time to wit- 
ness, for the first time, a sea captain in a passion ; and I 
can with truth say, that I had no idea that so small a man 
as Captain Harding had as strong a pair of lungs, or such 
fluency of language. The Captain of the Arkansas request- 
ed the Captain of the Amazon to let go the hawser ; but 
the angry little Harding peremptorily refused ; saying that 
he should not let it go until the steamer had hauled his 
windlass and foremast out of his vessel, for he did not 
think of being left in distress. However, the Captain of 
the Arkansas ordered his men to cut the hawser, and the 
Amazon swung round, whilst the tow was getting out her 
anchors, which being done, the Amazon heaved the hawser 
again, and was towed by her about five miles ; but the 
steamer getting along so slowly with but one wheel, the 
other having become disabled, Capt. Harding thought it best 
to cut off from her, and accordingly we made sail for the 
Balize, which we reached on the 11th inst.; and, notwith- 
standing the schooner had received considerable damage, 



26 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 



yet I determined to proceed on my voyage w^ith the brave 
little Captain of the Amazon. 

Upon ray arrival at the Balize, it was with much regret 
that I learned that Mr. John Duncan would go no farther; 
for I found, on my short acquaintance with him, a most 
interesting travelling companion. Mr. Duncan had won my 
friendly feelings, and I had hoped that the tedium of a sea 
voyage would have been whiled away in the pleasant soci- 
ety of a fellow countryman. It is to those alone whose 
misfortune, or peculiar condition, can with deep sensibility 
feel the solace of friendship, which agreeably to the com- 
mon acceptation of the word, as the poet has called it " but 
a name ;" and as an unremembered author, I think, reraarks, 
*' The hopes that are formed but to be disappointed ; the 
disappointments vv^hich are 'in reality blessings ; the long- 
ings for that which would prove destructive ; the joys that 
kill, and the sorrows that make alive, can only be condoled 
with and enjoyed alone, but by the participation of friend- 
ship." I am not one of those who believe that the better 
feelings of the human heart should be alienated from his 
fellow beings, because there are some false friends ; but, 
to the contrary, think that there is much reward in even a 
casual or partial unison with others; although, ultimately, 
the object of our love or friendship should prove false or 
coquetish. It therefore cannot be surprising that I, with 
much lively sensibility, bade adieu to my friend, for he 
was the only American of whom I could at that time take 
leave ; and, in doing so, I felt that the last link had been bro- 
ken between myself and my fellow citizens of the United 
States. 

True to the adage, that the *' loss of one is the gain 
of another," for I perceived the captain, who had gone 
ashore, returning, having in his boat two strangers, whom 
I hoped were passengers, and indeed, it resulted in the fact 
that when they came on board, one of them, Mr. James 
Duplessis, was bound for Mexico. All being on board, and 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 



27 



the pilot waiting, the Amazon weighed anchor, and we 
again sailed for the Gulf, by the way of the N. E. Pass. 
When we had arrived there, a most singular phenomenon 
was to be witnessed ; for as the Mississippi river, which 
had for more than two thousand miles irresistibly swept 
every thing before it, mingling in its muddy and rapid cur- 
rent alike the forest and the " terra firma," yet as it met 
its mother ocean it was, with a degree of modesty unex- 
pected — for just where the river mouthed against the sea, 
there seemed to be a perfect line of demarcation between 
the dark waters of the river, and the clear, deep, blue, salt 
element ; notwithstanding the river came rushing, as long 
as confined between banks, with bounding wave and foam- 
ing surge, yet as it breasted the sea, all was calm and tran- 
quil ; for the waters of the mighty deep held it back as but a 
thing of nothing, and the salt flood of the Gulf seemed to 
spurn an union with its kindred element of the river, for it 
could not be perceived just at the juncture, that there was 
a mingling of the two ; but the pilot informed me that 
the current was supposed to be the strongest at the bottom 
of the river, and, by that means, was lost in the ocean. 

At the mouth of the N. E. Pass, the Amazon again cast 
anchor, for there the pilot, Capt. John Brown, was to part 
with us ; as also Dr. G. A. Bernard, who had accompanied 
his friend, Mr. Duplessis, thus far; likewise, Mr. Duncan, 
who was to return with the Doctor, in Capt. Brown's boat. 

As on this occasion there were more than myself to take 
leave of friends and fellow countrymen, some time was 
spent in many parting words, and aspirations for a happy 
and safe voyage. At length, the wine glass having passed 
around, and as Captain Brown had, in a most cordial man- 
ner, shaken my hand, and turned to descend the side of the 
vessel to his boat, which was alongside, the captain, from 
some unperceived cause, was precipitated head foremost 
overboard into the sea. He was long out of sight, and to 
us all it seemed an age; at length all observed the troubling 



28 



TEAVELS IN MEXICO. 



of the water, and with animated hopes we expected to be- 
hold the Captain ; but suddenly our joy was chagrined by 
the appearance of a huge monster of a Porpoise, who, rising 
almost out of the water, and giving one of his well known 
rotary evolutions, again disappeared. But Captain Brown 
did not tarry longer, for no sooner had the Porpoise been 
lost to our sight than the Captain rose to the surface, and, 
as I at that moment caught his eye, I never shall forget the 
expression of despair depicted upon his countenance. My 
friend, Mr. John Duncan, having leaped from the deck of 
the Amazon into the pilot boat, grasped the captain with his 
right hand and lifted him on board. Captain Brown, being 
saved from a watery grave, remarked that, notwithstanding 
he had fallen overboard, he had waked up the largest Por- 
poise that he had ever seen; and again, an affectionate leave 
having been taken, the Amazon weighed anchor, and spread 
her canvass to a fair wind. In a few hours we were carried 
beyond the sight of land. 

We had been at sea but three days, when it was with 
much regret I perceived .that my accommodating little Cap- 
tain Harding was confined to his bed, from severe indis- 
position, and my time was mainly occupied in watching his 
sick couch, v.hich aiforded me much pleasure, as the de- 
portment of the captain so entirely differed from what I had 
understood to be the character of sea captains; and I could 
not consent that a polite and good man 'should suffer in hours 
of extremity. But as I occasionally felt some symptoms of 
sea-sickness, by confinement below, it was my habit, in ac- 
com-paniment with Mr. Duplessis, a very intelligent and 
agreeable gentleman, from the city of New Orleans, in the 
lapse of the evening to sit on deck, for at that hour the 
parching sun had lost half its power, and the delightful sea- 
breeze was most congenially refreshing to the traveller pri- 
soned in so small a compass as we had to occupy. 

It was on the lovely evening of the ISthinst., when seated 
on the deck as above described, the wind continuing fair. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



29 



and the Amazon rapidly splitting the waves, that I cast 
my eyes around upon the broad expanse of waters that en- 
circled me, and then to the heavens above, when my atten- 
tion was fixed upon an extended cloud far to the westward, 
and so perfect was the representation that, in the forgetful- 
ness of the moment, I really imagined that I beheld the Blue 
Ridge mountain, with its two high peaks of Otter ; and, as 
I looked upon the view, my bosom not only glowed with 
admiration, but was filled with joy at an aspect familiar to 
me from my earliest infancy — and I could but exclaim, 
" Behold the Blue Ridge mountain ; my own native sce- 
nery!" My exclamation attracted the attention of all who 
were near me, and as neither passenger nor crew had ever 
beheld the beautiful sight of that lovely mountain, I was 
called on to describe the resemblance; and at once, with 
an eagerness that would have surprised any individual fa- 
miliar with the mountains of Virginia, I commenced the 
task. But, before completing the description, my attention 
was arrested from my delightful theme by the increased 
violence of the wind, accompanied by that whizzing, whis- 
tling sound in its passage through the rigging of the vessel, 
which to a landsman is not only startling, but really makes 
his hair stand on end. The mate having given the alarm, 
by shouting out " a Norther," a storm much more destruc 
five than any other wind that sweeps the Mexican Gulf, 
and which is always periodical in the months of October 
and November. My attention having been thus diverted, 
and feeling filled with apprehensions, I at once determined 
to go below, discovering as I did that I was in much danger, 
it then being night, by the swinging of the boom, as well as 
by the sweeping of the tackling of the vessel over the deck ; 
and that intention was also hastened by the sudden heavy 
fall of rain. And thus, but a few minutes previous, little 
did I think that, in the playfulness of my thoughts, whilst 
resembling a cloud to a mountain, it was pregnant with a 
storm so soon to be avalanched upon us. Having reached 



30 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

the cabin, I soon felt my sickening sensations returning, by 
the increased and more violent motion of the vessel, and I 
accordingly climbed into my berth, for repose always re- 
lieved me from any nauseating feelings I might have expe- 
rienced from sea-sickness. I had not long occupied my 
berth, when by the activity evinced by the crew, as well as 
from the violence with which the angry waves would 
beat against the sides of the vessel, that a storm of no 
ordinary character was raging. After I had listened some 
time to the loud and quick commands of the mate, that per- 
sonage at length appeared in despair, and informed Captain 
Harding-that a Norther was raging, and that he would be 
glad if he would come on deck, or else tell him what to do. 
The captain was at that time laying in his berth beneath 
my own, where he had been confined for the last three days, 
from an accidental blow he had received, being so disabled 
that he could but with difficulty get in and out of it. He, 
therefore, could only reply to his mate that he must do the 
best he could, and keep all hands busy. It was not long 
after the mate had returned to his command, before I was 
alarmed by hearing all on deck utter the shout of land ! 
land ! and the mate soon ordered the long-boat to be lower- 
ed. As the crew were busied in obeying the order, and 
having myself ascended the gangway, it was at that mo- 
ment exclaimed, " A man overboard !" and the mate in the 
next instant responded, " He is lost ! he is lost ! Heave 
away, men !" I could not but feel the deepest sorrow for 
the fate of the poor sailor, and again returned to my berth 
to meet my own, whatever it might be, by the hands of a 
kind and divine Providence. But by his will we were 
saved, and the vessel preserved harmless from wind and 
wave ; for as the long-boat had been let down, as a last 
resort, in case the schooner had been cast ashore, or driven 
on a rock, the wind by degrees ceased to blow. At the dawn 
of day as the sailors, by command, proceeded to raise the 
long-boat, which was still at our side, the silence and so- 



TRAVELS IN 5IEXIC0. 



31 



lemnity of the occasion evidently demonstrated that poor 
Will, who was lost, was remembered by all 

But as the sun ascended out of the sea, and lit up the 
eastern horizon, sublime indeed was the scene presented to 
our view ; for whilst on the left was discovered a boundless 
expanse of water — to the right, arose, from the margin of 
the sea, the lofty range of, as the captain of the Amazon 
called them, the Perote mountains, which, as I was inform- 
ed, were of a general elevation of about twelve thousand 
feet above the level. of the Gulf. The mountains presented 
a dark, blackish appearance, being covered with forest as 
well as I could at the distance discover, on their lower re- 
gions. The scene was a most picturesque and congenial 
one to me ; for whilst, by the light of day, the land seemed 
an anchor of hope, in the event of a storm, the scenery it 
presented reverted my thoughts back to my own native hills, 
so much beloved. Whilst the Gulf of Mexico is bound on 
the north and west by a flat country, scarcely rising above 
the level of the ocean, it seems that it is held to its place on 
the south by a long range of mountains, in a crescent form, 
and of singular beauty, against which the surging of the 
waves in their fury is harmless. However, agreeable to the 
old nautical adage, that " a calm always succeeds a storm," 
the day succeeding the night of the gale, we were in a state 
of perfect calm ; nor did we make more than twelve miles 
progress during the period of twenty-four hours. This day 
was most amusingly spent in harpooning sharks, and also in 
hooking other fish, much to the joy of our Dutch cook, who, 
as they were hauled in, would dilate upon their specific 
qualities, explaining why the one was better for soup, whilst 
-the other should be for the pan or broil. 

On the 17th inst., although the calm continued, yet myself 
and Mr. Duplessis were richly repaid for all the delay, in- 
conveniences and dangers we had encountered by having 
our attention called, on the morning of the day in question, 
to the magnifiicent view of the perpetually snow-capped 



32 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



Orizava, lying west of Vera Cruz; lat. 19 12, long. 96 08, 
and said by some to rise to a height of about 22,895 feet 
above the level of the sea. The Orizava, in its sublimity 
of aspect, can neither be imagined nor described, yet the 
impression it had upon my mind was that its lofty summit 
vv'as the most beautiful scene of nature I had ever beheld. 

The morning was clear and cloudless, in consequence of 
the calm of the preceding twenty-four hours, and it was 
therefore that, at a distance of forty miles from land, we 
had the incomprehensible and beautiful view of the hoary 
height of the Orizava. To picture the scene so that the 
imagination could encompass its many beauties and gran- 
deur, would be an undertaking beyond the most graphic 
powers of any pencil or pen ; and, therefore, it is reasona- 
ble to conclude that I have no intention of impeaching the 
fancy of the reader, who will excuse me when I say that the 
view, as presented to me, seemed to be a vast pile of moun- 
tains rising immediately from the margin of the sea, one 
above the other, of variegated heights and formations of 
peaks, covered by the deepest green vegetation, and that, 
too, perpetual; but, pre-eminently rising above them all, 
the eternally snow-capped monarch of mountains, in all 
the sublimity of grandeur, appeared in lofty magnificence 
to dazzle back the rays of the sun, reflecting, from its ex- 
ceeding' purity of whiteness, glittering gems of the most re- 
splendent brightness, far above the comparatively diminu- 
tive aspirations of other lofty summits, or the rude and am- 
bitious footsteps of inquiring man. 

After we had for nearly two days been becalmed, in full 
view of the Orizava, on the morning of the 19th inst., a de- 
lightful trade wind, so called by the sailors, sprang up, and 
again put our fast-sailing little schooner in merry motion, by 
rapidly plunging it against the waves, and making it but a 
trifle to mount the stoutest of them. As evening approach- 
ed, I observed the captain taking an observation with his 
spy-glass, and, on inquiring of him if he could look into port, 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



33 



he smilingly handed me the glass, saying, " There, look for 
yourself." When I had taken the instrument, after spying 
a few times to the right and left, the light-house and the 
Castle of San Juan de Ulloa fell full upon my sight ; and, 
raising it a little higher, the walls of the city, the cupolas, 
domes, and high towers of both church and cathedral plain- 
ly informed me that the much-desired port of Vera Cruz 
was in full view. Upon being satisfied that we were about 
to enter the destined haven, which, on one occasion at least, 
had been despaired of by me, I did not lose time, although 
the sea was rough, in making my face acquainted with my 
razor, to which it had been a total stranger for the last seven 
days, and in opening my trunk for the last time, until it should 
pass through the Custom-house ; for at a distance we could 
perceive a pilot boat belting the breakers, upon which were 
visible several wrecks, which lay between us and the island 
of Sacrificios. To myself who, abroad, had never before 
witnessed the boarding by a pilot, it was an interesting sight. 
The boat was small and manned only by the pilot and a boy; 
it had to make a circuit of about two miles to reach us, 
whilst the Amazon would have to sail scarcely one; and as 
the wind wns high, and the boat light, it seemed to skim the 
water with a swiftness equivalent to a plumed arrow shot 
from an Indian bow. As the pilot came alongside the 
schooner, I was much amused by the declaration of our 
cook, who was a Dutchman, exclaiming that, if the pilot 
belonged to him, he would be certain of making his fortune, 
by exhibiting the man as the baboon of his race. Indeed 
the pilot to me was a curiosity, for added to his naturally 
dark and sun-burnt features, the long glossy hair of his head, 
perfectly black, besides the grizzly-looking beard that co- 
vered his chin and mouth, in tom-puss fashion, circling up to 
his eyes, made the man appear more like a monster who 
had strayed from the frozen regions of the Orizava, or like 
the grizzly bear of the North, who had ventured to sea upon 
an iceberg in search of prey. The pilot being the first 
3 



34 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



Mexican I had ever seen, I felt myself much disappointed, 
if he was a fair specimen, from what I had imagined their 
appearance to be ; however, I afterwards learned that he 
was an Indian. 

At six o'clock, P. M., we entered the port of Vera Cruz, 
which is of difficult access, and were safely anchored under 
the frowning guns of the Castle San Juan de Ulloa ; and, as 
I cast my eyes along its battlements, the many marks of 
French cannon balls were yet plainly visible, being the re- 
maining admonitions to Santa Anna of Louis Philippe's dis- 
pleasure, and chastisement of French wrongs. Mr. Du- 
plessis and myself at once determined to spend the nighj; on 
shore, and as there are no wharves at Vera Cruz, we were 
politely tendered a small boat, by the captain of a Mexican 
steamer, as that of the Amazon was employed in placing the 
anchor of the schooner; our baggage, therefore, having been 
transferred to the boat, and having taken seats ourselves, 
we were landed in quick time, at a distance of about three 
hundred yards upon the Mole, which is extended into the 
water about fifty yards, from immediately opposite the only 
gate of the city fronting the sea. The Mole, as is the case 
always, upon the arrival of a vessel, was crowded with peo- 
ple from every clime, as well as by citizens, sailors, and sol- 
diers of the city; and to me, who had for the first time land- 
ed upon the terra firma of a foreign country, the sight was 
striking and novel ; for at one glance I beheld the black 
colour of the African — the tawny complexion of the Indian 
— the brunette of the Spaniard — as well as the fairer hue of 
other Europeans ; and it did appear to me that had I been 
at the Tower of Babel, when the confusion of languages 
took place, my ears could not have been saluted by a great- 
er jargon of sounds, or my eyes with the sight of so much 
variety of costume ; and, for a mixed multitude, it surprised 
me to behold such a marked indiflferent expression of coun- 
tenance a:nd mien, of which I shall hereafter again speak ; 
defying any stranger to tell who were the Mexicans, other- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



35 



wise than from the uniforms of the soldiers. Although the 
Mexicans are more or less dark complexioned, yet there are 
a goodly number of people in Mexico who are of pure Cas- 
tilian and Hidalgo blood of old Spain, as well as descend- 
ants of other Europeans and North Americans ; and, there- 
fore, the darker coloured portion of the population are the 
Indian, and the consequent shades produced from the ad- 
mixture with the Indian ; however, at the same time, there 
is no blood so pure in Mexico, but what is in some degree 
mixed with the native aboriginal Indian. The ancient Mex- 
icans had the honour of planting their own race in Spain ; 
for the " beautiful princess Tecuichpo is commemora- 
ted by the Spaniards, since from her, by marriage, are de- 
scended some of the illustrious families of their own nation." 
In consequence of the lateness of the hour when Mr. 
Duplessis and myself landed upon the Mole, it was impos- 
sible for us to pass our trunks through the custom-house ; 
we therefore repaired to the " Casa de la Biligencia," the 
Diligence House, the principal hotel kept in the place. Its 
landlord was a fine looking Irishman, by the name of Bell. 
It was our determination to spend our first night in Vera 
Cruz, in quietness and repose, so that we might on the fol- 
lowing morning feel refreshed from our sea-voyage, and 
thereby enjoy our ramble and the view of the city more; 
but how sadly were we disappointed ; for the bells of the 
public buildings, that were constantly ringing in honour of 
a saint, as I was informed, perpetuated their clack-a-clack, 
and we had not more than fairly retired to bed by the hour 
of nine, than the loud report of a big gun from the Castle 
was heard ; then followed the ringing of all the bells of the 
cathedral and churches, which produced the most deafening 
peal that had ever stunned my senses — this was followed by 
the beating of drums and the blowing of fifes and trumpets, 
and for the balance of the night, as if intended for our dis- 
tress, besides the diligent biting of fleas and mosquitoes, we 
were kept awake by the crying of the watch-word of the 



3g TRAVELSINMEXICO. •» 

sentinels, who were posted at every corner of the street, 
two of whom had their positions near to us ; and for the 
first night, notwithstanding our anticipated luxury of sleep- 
ing in a bed on shore, I was kept listening to the stentorian 
voices of the sentinels crying every half hour — Ave Maria 
furissima, los dos y media serenis, &c. 

The following morning being Sunday, the 20th instant, 
Mr. Dimond, the American Consul for the port of Vera 
Cruz, a polite gentleman, and withal very accommodating, 
marked for his business habits, did me the favour of calling 
on me, and invited me to take a stroll with him to view the 
emporium of the great mart of Mexico, denominated by its 
founder, Hernando Cortes, in 1519, Valla Rica de la Vera 
Crus — the rich town of the true cross — and so long as the 
Spaniards were its owners, it was in truth the rich town of 
the New World. The city of Vera Cruz is enclosed by a 
continued wall, built of coral stone and brick, stuccoed on 
the outer and inner sides. The streets, running north and 
south, east and west, are narrow, and all paved with stone, 
shipped from the United States. The town is laid off in 
squares, and the houses are a solid mass of buildings, cover- 
ing the whole squares. When you have seen one house in 
Vera Cruz you have seen them all, for there is a perfect 
sameness in their architecture. The houses are built of 
stone or brick, and stuccoed on the outside, which is white- 
washed or painted. Each building being of a square form, 
has its paved or flagged court within, and a flight of steps 
conducts you to the corridor of each story, the corridors 
extending around the building, as often as there are stairs, 
are broad and paved with either brick or tile, and strongly 
cemented together. The doors of the rooms all open to the 
corridors, and the floors of the rooms are also of tile, and 
with very few exceptions of Mosaic marble. The floors, 
by the most tastefully cultivated people, are either painted, 
or covered with oil cloth or carpets. It is but seldom that 
windows are seen in the first stories of buildings ; and when 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 317 

perceived they are strongly barred with iron grating. There 
are no windovi^s to the outer walls of the upper stories, ex- 
cepting those fronting the streets; the greater number of 
windows to the buildings are from the inner walls, look- 
ing out upon the corridors. Generally, to each door and 
window fronting the street, there is a short jutting plat- 
form, railed and barred with iron, upon which the inhabi- 
tants can sit or stand for observation or airing ; and often 
have I been reminded, when observing the inhabitants seated 
on these platforms, in their silent, demure and solemn gra- 
vity, looking in a most careless and spiritless manner, upon 
all that might be transpiring around them, of a Beaver Vil- 
lage, where here and there some dark, grave beaver of fine 
for would be sunning in his window, not knowing that hap- 
piness or misery dwelt in the breasts of any other creature 
but itself, and when satiated with looking and sunning, dive 
back again into his strong hole. 

The houses of the city, without exception, are flat-roofed ; 
the roofs being covered with tile or bi'ick, and strongly ce- 
mented, and thus rendered fire and water proof; however, 
fire is the least of all the dangers that a Mexican anticipates 
to befall his house, for it is universally without a chimney. 
On the tops of the buildings are built observatoi'ies, which, 
at a distance improves the view of the town. In front of 
the Casa de la Diligencia, is a Plaza, or public square, of 
about two acres of ground, and directly opposite the Casa 
de la Diligencia is what was once the Palace Royal, but 
now a barracks and a prison. The public buildings, and 
especially the churches, are of stupendous dimensions and 
magnificently finished within. 

There is a religious building in Vera Cruz, of Jesuit ori- 
gin, noted for its massiveness and the great strength of its 
walls, for the Jesuits were not only remarkable for their 
ambitious grasping after power, but also for fortifying them- 
selves in whatever they undertook. The elegance of one 
private building above another, can only be discovered by 



38 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



entering into the court of the house, as but seldom do they 
make much outside show. On some of the squares, the por- 
tals extend over the side-walks, and thus the citizens in the 
streets are protected from the inclemency of the' weather, 
and the intense heat of the sun. I was not in any of the 
houses at Vera Cruz but those occupied by foreigners, and 
I did not observe any material difference, as to the man- 
ner in which they were furnished, from those of the United 
States, saving that the corridors were hung around with 
cages filled with many coloured birds, and whilst, indeed^ 
some were sweetly warbling notes divine, yet the intolerable 
jargon of the parrot, with his ear-piercing whistling and 
squalling, entirely destroyed the melody of the other beau- 
tifully feathered songsters. 

There was also one other thing that invariably attracted 
my attention wherever I went, whether in public or private 
buildings, viz : a brass urn, called a Brazero, in which were 
heaped live coals of fire, and as an Englishman of poetic 
imagination remarked, " that eternal fires were kept burning 
in those brazeros in imitation of the ancient Mexicans, who 
kept perpetual fires in their temples in honour of the sun;" 
however, no one could long remain in ignorance of their 
purpose, as the inhabitants never passed in or out without 
first touching the end of their paper or tobacco cigars, to a 
live coal of the brazeros, and thus, by that means, keep , 
the eternal fires burning also at their mouths, whilst two 
streams of perpetually curling smoke were issuing from 
their nostrils ; for the Mexican first swallows the smoke, and 
then ejects it through his nose, believing it to be a very 
beautiful sight. 

The health of Vera Cruz is perhaps worse than that of 
any other place on the habitable globe, and it is calculated ^ 

that one-fifth of its inhabitants annually perish ; for, from 'V^ a 
the month of June until October, the Mexican Vomito has ^\ '''^ 
a reign of terror, carrying to the tomb the old and young, \ 
and but seldom sparing the foreigner. The sickness of 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 39 

Vera Cruz is attributed to the increased intensity of the sun's 
heat, reflected from the high white sand-iiills, that overlook 
the town, as also from the poisonous vapour which arises 
from the stagnant waters of the lakes and swamps which 
surround the city. The venomous insects that infest that hot 
region add likewise in no small degree, by never leaving the 
inhabitants to repose, and constantly causing feverish excite- 
ment and irritation, to promote disease; yet, it is asserted in 
history that, previous to the discovery of Mexico, and long 
after its settlement, the mortality as now known at Vera 
Cruz had not its existence ; and thus, but in another in- 
stance, exhibiting the fact that, wherever the white man 
erects his habitation and plants civilization, pestilence and 
bilious maladies are his consequent accompaniments. How- 
ever, the Northers at Vera Cruz, like the frost of New Or- 
leans, purify the atmosphere, and dissipate disease. The 
Northers, as before stated, are periodical, in the months of 
October and November, and notwithstanding their destruc- 
tive tendency upon the sea, yet they have a highly beneficial 
effect on land, breaking down the luxuriency of vegetation 
on the coast, and driving before them all infection which 
the intense heat of summer may have taken from the decom- 
position of the vegetable kingdom ; and thus it can be easily 
perceived that nature, in her economy, must have designed 
that as the frost never falls upon the plains of Mexico to 
kill malaria and destroy green vegetation, those north winds 
so much dreaded at sea, are sent in blessing to the landsmen. 
Soon after my arrival at Vera Cruz, I gave to the servant 
who attended my room some clothing to be washed ; but 
he soon returned with my bundle, bringing with him a Ger- 
man lady of the establishment as his interpreter, and informed 
me that the washwoman refused to take the clothes, unless I 
would release her from all responsibility if a Norther should 
carry them away ; whereupon assuming the hazard, on the 
following day, upon short notice, the winds came, and scat- 
tered my clothing like kites in the air, some to the country, 



^Q TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

and some to the sea, and some perhaps to needy Mexicans. 
The inhabitants, on the first appearance of the coming 
storm, are compelled immediately to tightly bar their doors 
and windows, stopping up the key-holes, and every other 
crevice, and to keep them so, long after the Norther ceases 
to blow, to prevent light articles of their houses from fly- 
ing away, as also their eyes from being put out by the sand 
thickly floating in the air. 

A French gentleman, Mons. P. Thuillier, described to me 
the terrible havocs of a Norther, as seen by himself from 
his own window, in which nine vessels perished, one of 
which was driven against the walls of the city, whilst an- 
other was upset upon the beach, and on the following day, 
when she was scuttled, six live men, to the joy and sur- 
prise of the wreckers, were disembowelled from the schoo- 
ner, which was half filled with water. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



41 



CHAPTER III. 

Dined with >[r. Djraond. Descvijjtion of ruins. Isla de los Sacrificiog. War-god Hui- 
tzilopotchili. 'Ihe Mexicans believe that the period had arrived for the return of their 
deity. Cannibal priests. Arrival of Cortes. Montezeuma's embassy. Vespus. Marina. 
Arrest of four Americans and two Dutchmen. Spanisli treasure. Consent of Santa 
Anna to search for money. Arrest of Capt. Place. Four days in Vera Cruz. De- 
parture from Vera Cruz. The Ladrones. Description of them. Duplicity of the 
Mexicans. Santa Anna's wooden leg. 

Mr. Dimond, with whom I dined on Sunday, the first 
day that I spent in Vera Cruz, was a native of the State 
of Connecticut ; but his lady was a Virginian, which fact 
I was not apprised of until I had remarked to him, whilst 
at his house, the striking resemblance I discovered in a 
portrait likeness that hung in his drawing-room, of Dr. 
Parker, formerly of Virginia ; when the consul informed 
me, that the old doctor was his father-in-law ; — a most 
singMar coincident. Mr. Dimond, for many years previous 
to his removal to Vera Cruz, had been the American Con- 
sul at Port au Prince, and in his conversation with me 
unhesitatingly said, that it was his conviction, resulting 
from his long residence in Hayti, that the slaves of the 
South, in the United States, were happier, and better pro- 
vided for, than the blacks of that island, with their boasted 
freedom. Dinner being over, I accepted his polite invita- 
tion to accompany him in a walk to the Passio, which 
name, as I understood, means a drive or promenade. 

The city of Vera Cruz, previous to the revolution, con- 
tained about twenty-five thousand inhabitants ; but, dis- 
tressing to tell, it does not now possess more than about 
four thousand. The general appearance of the town shows 
great decay and dilapidation ; for the many scourges, by 
war and the decline of commerce, resulting from a system 
of government policy, which we shall hereafter explain, 



42 TEA VELSIN MEXICO. 

! has reduqed the once flourishing port of Mexico into a heap 
of ruins, and a by-word for civilized nations. 

Upon my reaching the Passio, which is beyond the west- 
ward gate of the city, my soul was pained at the ruin and 
waste that I there beheld. Much of the beauty of the Passio 
itself yet remained, for a large portion of its pavement, 
made of smooth and shiny bitumen — its many seats and 
circles — are yet perfect, affording the visiter much recrea- 
tion, while strolling along its walks, as, at the same time, 
he feels refreshed by the cooling sea-breeze, which, at the 
hour of evediing, always, most congenially, wafts in gentle 
zephyrs over it. But how sadly changed the scene since 
the old Dons of Spain are no longer there to improve and 
dignify the place. In vain the visiter looks for the flower- 
gardens, and the groves of orange, lemon and cocoa-nut 
trees, as, also, the pine-apple plant, filling the air with fra- 
grance, as well as the fountains of water which skirted 
the Passio on both sides. 

This delightful walk once pierced the centre of a broad 
street, bounded, on either hand, for half a mile, by ro#s of 
beautiful buildings — where are they now?^tumbled into 
ruins; — for there can be beheld the broken columns and 
fallen dome of a proud and lofty church, where once pealed 
the notes divine of the solemn organ. Indeed, ruin and de- 
cay may be seen in all,— -in whatever direction the eyes may 
be turned, litgrally are beheld, " walls bowed, and crushed 
seats." How impressively does the scene of this place re- 
mind the looker-on of the vanity and futility of all human 
things ; and how melancholy the reflection to him vv'ho can 
stand on the spot and meditatively contemplate over the 
falHng dwellings and palaces ; where once the Spanish belle, 
with her tuned guitar, sweetly warbled her touching notes 
in the ears of her lover ; — falling into heaps of mouldering 
rubbish, — 

" The crush'd relics of their vanquished might," 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 43 

a retreat and shelter for sheep and swine ; or else, made 
places for the butchering and the drying of meat. I am 
persuaded, from what I have learned of the history of Mex- 
ico, and all I have seen of Vera Cruz, that no greater ca- 
lamity could have befallen any people, than the acquisition, 
by the Mexicans, of their independence, and the expulsion 
of the old Spaniards from her dominions. 

At the end of the Passio my attention was attracted by 
the sound of music, and, on approaching a falling building, 
which yet had standing a portion of its portal, supported 
by pillars, was seen a motley crowd ; one of the men, a 
Mexican, was strumming on an indifferent Spanish guitar, 
while a negro was also thumbing a kind of harpsichord pe- 
culiar to the country. As the music was going on, a woman 
and a man were dancing, what I was informed to be a 
fandango. The woman wore the hat of her partner, and 
the dance consisted in a lazy shuffle to a slow tune. At a 
period of every iEive or ten minutes, the woman would com- 
mence a plaintive ditty, in which the whole crowd would 
join in chorus, and, what would otherwise have rendered 
the music agreeable, was, that the male voices attempted 
to imitate the female, and produced such a shrill, hideous 
sound, the like of which, for music, I had never before 
heard more ridiculous. Upon my inquiring the reason of 
the lady's wearing the hat of the gentleman, I was informed 
that whenever an individual desired to dance with a lady, 
he would first present her with his hat, and, if she thus ac- 
cepted his invitation, he could not again obtain his hat 
without redeeming it by paying one dollar; and in this 
way, I was told, the loafers of Vera Cruz devoted every 
Sabbath evening. 

Upon continuing my walk further on the green turf of the 
level plain, a small building, with a belfry, and a high 
wall, encircling a large plat of ground, all of an antique 
and decayed appearance, struck my view. This was the 
cemetery, whose ready portals were continually receiving 



44 TEAVELSINMEXICO. 

SO large a portion of the human family. About midway 
between myself and the cemetery, I discovered the habit of 
a priest, and about him were some six or eight individuals, 
and I was informed, that at that place the priests were in 
the custom of meeting the corpse brought out of the city 
for interment, as to go too often into the cemetery was con- 
sidered to expose too much the life of the holy father, and 
therefore there performed the last solemn duties of ablution, 
and of sprinkling dust and ashes over the remains of a de- 
parted fellow-being returning to his mother earth. 

My mind, dissatisfied with all the objects presented to my 
view, my thoughts could but revert, with the Ma de los 
Sacrificios in broad aspect of the Passio, to the early history 
of the country. In 1518, Grijalva had the distinguished 
fame of being the first European who set foot on Mexican 
soil, and, at the island above mentioned it was, where the 
Spaniard first beheld the trickling blood of human heca- 
tombs on the altars of the Mexican war-god Huitzilopotchili, 
and from the ensanguined temples erected for his worship, 
perpetually ascended the smoke of human sacrifices in eve- 
ry town of the empire. How vast, then, the destruction 
of human life ! In the mystic legends of the Mexicans, as 
to one of their tutelary deities, the god of the air, Quetzal- 
coatl, prepared the way by which, alone, a handful of Spa- 
niards were enabled to overthrow a vast and powerful 
empire. This air god, doomed to exile by a superior divi- 
nity, was tall in stature, with a white skin, long dark hair, 
and a flowing beard. Seated in his wizzard skiff, made of 
serpents' skins, he embarked upon the Mexican gulf, to glide 
over the great waters of the fabled land of Hapallaw. But, 
previous to his departure, he promised his friends that him- 
self and his descendants would again visit a country which 
he so much loved. And divine will did so provide, in the 
abundance of time, that the fair regions of Mexico should 
no longer be doomed to the loathsome and degrading prac- 
tices of cannibalism, to satiate the bloody and depraved 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



46 



appetite of a frantic and bigoted priesthood. And, as an 
elegant author has remarked, it is " Strang that in every 
country the most fiendish passions of the human heart have 
been those kindled in the name of religion." 

It happened that, in the reign of Montezeuma, the Mexi- 
cans were generally impressed with the opinion that the 
time had arrived for their god Quetzalcoatl to return — that 
deity so unlike the aspect of the Indian — for, with hair not 
so black, with fair skin and flowing beard, was a god incar- 
nate, of person superior in dignity of mien to themselves ; 
and, when compared to their other deities, possessed a 
beauty and a pureness entirely differing from the hideous 
appearance of other divinities, to appease the wrath of 
whom, it eternally required the smoking hearts of thousands 
of their Indian race to send up their barbarous and super- 
stitious oblations to heaven, as the dear prize of their homage 
and devotion to them. Not so with Quetzalcoatl, for he 
had been their benefactor when residing amongst them, and, 
in the plenitude of his goodness, taught them the use and the 
art of manufacturing metals, a shining helmet of which 
he wore upon his head. He also instructed them how to 
cultivate their fields in maize, a single ear of which was a 
load for one man. In fine, this god had been their benefac- 
tor in every thing that was useful, or which contributed to 
their comfort and happiness: therefore it was with mingled 
hopes and fears that the Mexicans looked with confidence 
for the appearing of him who was to guide them in the 
ways of knowledge, and to more exalted spheres of feli- 
city. 

The convictions of the Mexicans, in the time of Monte- 
zeuma, that the period had arrived for the return of their 
deity, and, fortunately for the Spaniards, that opinion had 
been strengthened, just previously to their landing on the 
shores of Mexico, by the great lake of Tezcuco of the val- 
ley of Anahuac, without wind or earthquake, being sud- 
denly tossed in boisterous waves, and overflowing its banks. 



46 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



swceped from before its tide many of the houses of the city 
of Mexico ; then a turret of the great temple took fire, 
without the cause of the Hghtning flash, or the hand of the 
incendiary, and defied alike the power of water to extin- 
guish its flames, or the arm of man to arrest its progress ; 
and then, the before unseen, shining orbs in the heavens, 
and a vivid sheet, or flood of fire, that spread along the 
broad expanse of the horizon to the east, rising to a pyra- 
mid, and tapering to a point as it ascended to its zenith, and 
at the same time voices of invisible spirits, or the whisper- 
ings of their gods, was heard in mournful and mysterious 
wailings in the air, prognosticating some calamity to their 
country ; or else, the evidences of the gatherings of the 
wrath of the perturbed spirits of their gods, to break in fu- 
ture time upon the devoted heads of poor Indians. 

As Montezeuma, and his subjects, upon the arrival of 
the Spaniards, had a deep and mystic cloud cast' over 
their spirits, by the troubling of the waters of the lake, and 
the terrific appearances of the heavens, they could but 
speedily anticipate the downfall of their empire. Indeed, to 
the royal Indian monarch, they were the handvi'riting upon 
the wall that made Belshazzar's knees smite together; and, 
to all human ken, were but angry and sublime enunciations 
of an all-wise overruling providence to an ignorant and big- 
oted people, that the white man, with thunder and light- 
ning in his hand, was soon to demoHsh, and hurl from the 
battlements of their towering temples, the ensanguined de- 
ities and insatiate cannibal priests, from the performance 
of their damned rites, and, in its stead, erect the standard 
of the cross, from which can be seen the blood of the Lamb 
which taketh away the sins of the world ; — and the terrible 
fate that overtook the priesthood of Montezeuma should 
be a monument of warning to those of the present day, 
of the true God's displeasure with wickedness and abomina- 
tions. 

It was, therefore, under the superstitious presentiments 



TRAVELS I NJVIEXICO. 47 

of Montezeuma, in the latter years of his reign, that Her- 
nando Cortes, on the morning of the 21st April, 1519, land- 
ed on the spot where now is the city of Vera Cruz; and, 
as I cast my eyes over the level plain, and beheld the white 
sand-hills, formed by the drifting of the sands during the 
blowing of the northern tornadoes, I could but picture, in 
m}^ imagination, that I beheld the chivah'ous few, under the 
banner of Castile, and commanded by the intrepid Cortes, 
encamped upon one of the eminences overlooking the plain 
below, and the surrounding country ; whilst, at the same 
time, the natives, with presents of gold and flowers in their 
hands, came flocking in from all parts to behold the won- 
derful strangers. As they are pondering in their minds, 
whether or not the beings they beheld were gods, and of 
the family of Quetzalcoatl, or but mere men like themselves 
— behold ! an embassy from the royal monarch of the land 

arrives, headed by a noble, Tuehtlile ; and, as he touches 

i 

the earth with his hand, and then raises it to his head — see ! 
he lays at the feet of Cortes, a golden sun, and silver 
moon, of ponderous weights, besides an hundred loads of 
rich and precious things of the country. Hear ! — the bell 
has tolled the hour of vespers, and the Spaniards have all 
fallen to their knees ; and, as father Olmedo, with solemn 
reverence, offers up his supplications to the most high God, 
the awe-struck natives are amazed at the worship of, to 
them, the unknown God of the Christians. 

The religious services being ended, — see ! in what bold 
relief the lovely Indian interpreter, Marina, whom chance 
had thrown in the possession of the conqueror, and of 
whom it is said, that Cortes " first made her his interpreter, 
then his secretary, and afterwards, won by her charms, bis 
mistress, by whom he had a son, Don Martin Cortes ; whom, 
although distinguished by his parentage, yet the inquisition 
put him to the rack in the very city won by the sword of 
his father." Yes, hear her, in the soft, sweet cadence of 
her voice, so peculiar to the females of her people, inform- 



48 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

ing the great noble, that Cortes " was the subject of a po- 
tent monarch beyond the seas, who ruled over an immense 
empire, and had kings and princes for his vassals; that, 
acquainted with the greatness of the Mexican empire, his 
master had desired to enter into a communication with him, 
and had sent him as his envoy to wait on Montezeuma 
with a present, in token of his good- will" — And hear the 
noble express his " surprise to learn there was another mo- 
narch as powerful as Montezeuma," and inquire, " How is 
it that you have been here only two days, and demand 
to see the emperor 1" — Long did my thoughts thus revel 
upon the early history of the country, (which, at the present 
day, although authentic in all its parts, yet, as seen through 
the vista of time, seems to be but the fabled account of some 
ingenious romance,) until, at length, admonished by the 
lateness of the hour, I returned to the city and my lodgings. 

Monday morning, the 20th inst., was hailed by me with' 
much satisfaction, as my trunk had to remain locked up 
in the custom-house all day Sunday ; the officers of Vera 
Cruz refusing to do business on that day, which disposition 
to keep the Sabbath, in this respect, loudly reflects to their 
credit. 

After breakfast, Mr. Dimond requested the key of my 
trunk, saying that he would make application for it in per- 
son, and I did not hesitate to comply with his kind offer, 
by accepting the proffered service ; for no one can feel com- 
fortable without their wardrobe; and, as my journal, too, 
was in my trunk, I felt out of employment without it. 
Mr. Dimond was not long absent before he returned, and 
informed me, that he had passed my baggage through the 
hands of the officers of the custom-house, and a laughable 
time he had of it, he said, in a scramble for my chew- 
ing tobacco. I was aware, previous to my going to that 
port, that the article of tobacco was contraband, but who 
ever heard of an old Virginian starting on a journey 
without especially having first provided himself with a few 



TRAVELS INMEXICO. 



49 



manufactured lumps of the weed, to stimulate and cheer 
his imagination, in his absence from friends, and to give 
his mouth employment, whilst sitting in strange places, for 
the want of acquaintances with whom to converse. I 
had intentionally deposited my tobacco on the top of all the 
other articles in my trunk, to prove thereby, that I had no 
disposition to smuggle it, and, therefore, no sooner was 
my trunk opened, than the best quality of that article that 
had ever come, perhaps, under the inspection of the offi- 
cers of that port, lay staring them in the face ; and no 
sooner was it seen than the voracious Mexicans laid violent 
hands on it, and deposited it on a shelf of the store-room. 

To this Mr. Dimond made no objections ; and the offi- 
cers not finding any other goods, or more tobacco to seize 
upon ; as they were about to close my trunk, my friend in- 
formed them, that the owner of that baggage ate the to- 
bacco which they had taken, and that it was necessary for 
his comfort that he should have it, which piece of informa- 
tion so surprised them, that if I ate tobacco, they said, I 
should have it. 

However, my friend, Mr. Duplessis, was not so fortu- 
nate, for he had to pay eighteen dollars duty on his snuff, 
for private use. And thus, it seems, that while the Mex- 
ican was circling the smoke of his cigarreto through his 
nose, thinking it the only good way to use tobacco, I was 
amusing myself by chewing my quid, and, at the same 
time, my New Orleans friend, of French descent, was 
tickling his olfactory nerves by copious pinches of snuff, 
to the delightful sneezing and convulsion of his whole sys- 
tem. 

On my arrival at Vera Cruz, there was much excitement 
amongst the good citizens of that place, in consequence of 
the recent arrest of four Americans and two Dutchmen. 
These were men who had been deluded into an enterprise, 
which resulted in some very remarkable facts : and I am 
indebted to the American consul, who was interposing 
4 

4 



5Q TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

his official authority in their behalf, for a history of their 
unjustijfiable confinement. 

During the first revolution in Mexico, the old Spaniards 
were ordered to leave the country, by the revolutionists. 
A few wealthy persons, who were residents of Vera Cruz, 
determined that, previous to departing upon their exile, they 
would bury their gold and valuable plate in some select and 
secret place, believing, as they did, that the insubordination 
of the natives would soon be quelled by the royal forces ; 
and, as they could not, with safety, convey it out of Mexico 
to the unknown place of their destiny, driven, as they were, 
to seek refuge as best they could, from the homes of their 
adoption; this party of Spaniards, putting a mutual trust 
in each other, and with the common hope of again being 
permitted to reside peaceably at Vera Cruz, buried their 
treasures on a tract of land, now belonging to Santa Anna, 
distant from the city about nine miles. A map having been 
accurately drawn, and a written geography prepared, of the 
precise location where the secret deposit had been made, the 
party made safe their retreat from the scenes of revolution 
and persecution. 

Time elapsed, and that too without a mitigation of the 
decree which expelled the refugees from Mexico, and, 
ultimately, all the leagued party had deceased in Europe, or 
the United States, but one, and he, having made his retreat 
to New Orleans, the map and all the information appertain- 
ing to the hidden treasure, on his demise in that city, fell 
into the hands of an individual who had been intimate with 
the deceased Spaniard ; and that person had employed the 
romantic adventurers to visit Mexico, and to dig for the hid- 
den wealth, with a promise of a large portion of the products 
of the discovery^ if made. The credulous Americans, upon 
landing at Vera Cruz, there found Santa Anna in a fret with 
his countrymen, because they had not cheered him as form- 
erly on his arrival within their walls. The money-hunters 
unhesitatingly acquainted the dictator with their business, 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 52 

and requested his permission to search for the hidden trea- 
sures, which they informed him were upon his land. Santa 
Anna, after expressing his want of faith in the narrative of 
the men, with much kind frankness gave his consent that 
they should, unmolested, search his premises for their golden 
expectations, whenever and as long as they pleased. 

The foreigners, delighted with their kind reception, and 
the much-desired privilege granted to them, with thankful 
hearts, promised the dictator a portion of the profits if suc- 
cessful ; and immediately repaired to Mango de Clavo, 
Santa Anna's hacienda campus, and commenced digging 
upon the spots of ground designated by the map and the 
written directions. But, to the great dismay of the party, 
before they had been allowed time to make any satisfactory 
progress, a band of soldiers came upon them, and, by the 
warrant of the dictator, arrested all of them, on the charge 
of their having been sent by the Texian government to as- 
sassinate him ; and that their object was, not to hunt for 
treasure, but for his blood, which was more precious than 
mountains of gold. In support of this ridiculous allegation, 
one of the minions of Santa Anna, who had never seen 
Texas, and held no correspondence with the executi^'^e of 
that government, as to its secret or avowed intentions, made 
oath to the charge. Thus there was no remedy for the un- 
fortunate adventurers but to be committed to gaol, where 
they could indulge their fancies in golden visions. 

As for the Mexicans, who ever, in the history of their 
country, have been accustomed to the secret hand of their 
government-officers, in the degrading and vile acts of assas- 
sination and low stratagem, they were easy to believe that 
the government of Texas could be guilty of so disgraceful a 
deed as to commit an act of violence upon the person of the 
dictator. But, to the contrary, it was the belief of all 
foreigners in the country, that the charge was only a device 
of Santa Anna (in which some of his countrymen thought 
him very smart) to obtain the chart and instructions from 



52- TRAVELSIN MEXICO. 

these men, to secure to himself, as it is said he did, eight 
thousand doubloons, which had been buried by the old 
Spaniards. 

Furthermore, to cap the climax of Santa Anna's perfidy, 
we give the following account :— -Captain Place, a com- 
m.ander of an American merchant ship, who had arrived at 
Vera Cruz in the ship Scotia, since my own landing, was 
arrested on the same charge, without the least shadow of 
proof that he had ever had any intercourse or connection 
with the Americans who already were committed to prison ; 
but, to the contrary, had never seen them, was also incar- 
cerated in a loathsome and vile prison at Vera Cruz. 
The object of Captain Place's visit to that city was to 
collect from the Mexican government the sum of ten 
thousand dollars, which was due to him, for supplies fur- 
nished the Mexican army during the war with Yucatan, 
in its late and glorious struggle for independence. As it, 
regards the case of the American sea-captain, as I was 
informed by a highly respectable gentleman of his profes- 
sion, it was obvious to all, that he had given no provocation 
whatever for an impeachment to be brought against him, to 
the effect of his being an accomplice with the Texians, as 
the dictator was pleased to denominate the American citi- 
zens, whom he had charged with a design to assassinate him. 
And it was thought to be the intention of Santa Anna, thus 
to pay the debt of Mexico, by forcing Captain Place to pur- 
chase his liberty at the dear rate of ten thousand dollars, he 
not having. been able, up to the time of my leaving Mexico, 
to obtain a trial. 

The only comment, which every lover of good faith, 
among Christian people of every country, can bestow upon 
such shameful and barbarous conduct, (which the honoura- 
ble portion of the world, but for the pubhcity of the fact^, 
will be hard of believing, that one occupying so high a 
place as Santa Anna could be guilty of,) is, that if the" United 
States cannot, in future, protect its citizens abroad, its na- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. ' 53 

tional honour will be for ever tarnished, and its boasted 
strength prove to be but pompous imbecility. 

My stay in Vera Cruz was four days, and on the 23d 
inst. my Louisiana friend and self united a small allowance 
of clothing in the same trunk, a small one purchased for the 
occasion, and designed for immediate uses on the road, and 
at the city of Mexico, until our baggage should arrive there. 
We were reduced to the necessity of such a resort, or 
else hazard the loss of all our trunks by the robbers on the 
way. We, therefore, with drafts on houses in Mexico in 
our pockets, called by the Mexicans libreances, and but fif- 
teen dollars in hand for expenses, having previously for- 
warded our trunks by the conductor, and which were to ar- 
rive at the city of Mexico in eighteen days from the time of 
their departure from Vera Cruz, took our leave of the city. 

The price of the transportation agreed on, was ten dol- 
lars for each trunk. I found that to travel in Mexico, it is 
necessary to part with your baggage, and but occasionally 
to meet with it, as you would some dear friend, who would 
be so obliging as to make you an occasional loan, to supply 
your immediate necessities. 

Our names having been entered at the dear rate of fifty 
dollars per seat in the diligencia, my departure was made, 
in company with four Americans, two Mexicans, one Bel- 
gian, one Irishman and an English lady and her two chil- 
dren. As the time appointed for the dihgencia to leave on 
its journey was eleven o'clock at night, it was a source of 
much regret to us all, as we would have the more to hazard 
our lives and property by departing at so late an hour, as 
the vehicle had been robbed on the three trips previous, 
almost at the gates of Vera Cruz, on one of which occa- 
sions a passenger lost his hand. 

Although it was of service to me, as I did not understand 
the Spanish language, yet I could not but feel diverted when 
a friend, who had interested himself in my behalf, informed 
me of the words of command I would receive, if attacked 



54 - TRAVELSINMEXICO. 

by the robbers or Ladrones, as they are called in that lan- 
guage; which were " hoca haje,'^ which phrase, being trans- 
lated into plain English, means " Stick your mouth in the 
dust:" a peremptory order, indeed, for unoffending travellers 
to receive, who were about to be stripped of their property; 
and, if remonstrance or resistance should be offered, their 
lives also. When the brigands hail the diligencia, the driver 
instantly comes to a halt, as he well knows, that, if he 
should crack his whip, and try to make safe his retreat from 
their murderous designs, (and sad experience has convinced 
him also by the downfall of others,) his life, on an after oc- 
casion, must pay the forfeit ; and, therefore, when a halt is 
called, the poor passengers are invited, by the ladrones, ta 
descend the steps and extend themselves, at full length, with 
their mouths to the earth; from which position, if they 
should have the temerity to stir, they must receive either 
the fiat side, or the sharp edge of a broad-sword. But, as 
we had been promised a double escort of soldiers, by the 
commandant of the garrison, to protect us from the much 
dreaded ladrones, we had but little anticipation of being in- 
terrupted. 

How disagreeable it is to the traveller, wearied and fa- 
tigued as he may be, to be deprived of even the pleasure of 
looking out upon the prospect of the country, without the 
dreaded idea of beholding land-pirates in ambush, or in the 
full gallop of pursuit ; but how much more disgraceful it is 
for a government to tolerate, by their neglect to suppress 
the evil, so dishonourable, unchristian, and criminal as it is, 
by permitting such things to be so universally practised, not 
only upon the most pubhc thoroughfares, but throughout the 
whole vast extent of the Mexican dominions. It is a sin 
peculiar to themselves, which should cover them with shame 
and the contempt of the world. 

It is a crime which cries aloud to heaven to scourge a na- 
tion for their acts of commission and omission; and, as ad- 
ditional evidence of the testimony given by all travellers in 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. gt- 

Mexico, and well deserving the attention of the incredulous, 
who find it difficult to believe that such enormities should 
not only be most open, but of outrageously frequent oc- 
currence, they have only to be reminded of the notori- 
ous robberies committed upon two of the American min- 
isters in a brief space of each other, viz. Mr. Shannon, 
accredited to the government of Mexico; and Mr. Gushing, 
returning from China. True, Santa Anna expressed his 
sorrow for the unfortunate Americans, but his sympathy 
was as much felt at heart, as are the tears of the crocodile. 
It would have been more congenial to his avaricious feel- 
mgs to have felt in his pocket the results of the barbarous 
transactions, than to have wasted one moment's grief for 
the unfortunate ministers. 

Understanding, as I now do, the duplicity of the Mexi- 
cans, and their policy, I should not be surprised if some in 
power should have known more of Mr. Shannon's robbery 
than might become them ; for all must remember the pen- 
dency of the Texian question at that time. But as Santa 
Anna and his officers are the acknowledged heads of a band 
of pirates, it cannot be astonishing that he should tolerate 
such deeds; unless the ladrones should again steal his wood- 
en leg, and throw him in a passion, as it once happened, 
when he caused the robbers to diseorse. 



56 TRAVELSIN3IEXICO. 



CHAPTER IV. 



At 11 o'clock the diligencia in waiting;. Two Mexicans on the back seat. Kefusal to give 
it up for a lady. Departure from Vera Cruz. Escort. Sand flies. Drifted sand. 
Large beetle, Cocuyos. Vera Cruz road, the same that Cortes travelled. Tierra ca- 
liente. Varieties of flowers and shrubbt-ry. Sultry heat. Halt of the diligencia at the 
Eancho. The escort takes leave. The road paved like a street upward of three hun- 
dred miles. President, Emperor and Dictator. Numerous bridges. La Puen,ta del Ray. 
Breakfast. Romantic and sublime scenery. Santa Anna's new building. First day's 
ride. Wild scenery. Tien-a templada. Stately forest. Varieties of mnsquite tree. 
Orizava is not a jiart of the Perote mountains. Grand view of the Orizava. The 
country volcanic. Lara. Jalapa. Wealth of the Dictator. The medicine Jalapa. The 
Plaza. The ladies of Jalapa. Departure from Jalapa. Humid vapours. Houses of 
seeds, sticks and earth. The aborigines. Tomb of an old Spaniard. Picturesque scene- 
ry. The plain of Perote. Andes and Cordilleras. Pastoral country. Pueblos buih of 
sim-burnt brick. Roman Catholic house of worship. The haciendas. Ploughs in Mex- 
ico. Two perpetually snow-capped peaks. Arrival at Pueblo. Priests imposing on the 
people. Cathedral of Pueblo. The mountains covered with large timber. Arrieros. 
Mules loaded with silver. Valley of Mexico. The promised land. Geography of the 
valley of Mexico. A grand scene. Sterility of soil. Lake region. Hot springs. Vol- 
canic eruptions. The causeway. Environs of Mexico. Lofty steeples. Arrived at the 
city of Mexico on the 26th Nov. Custom-house. Gran Sociadad and Holy Ghost street. 



At eleven o'clock on the night of the 23d inst., the dih- 
gencia was waiting for its passengers, and on their arrival 
it was discovered that the two Mexicans had already se- 
cured the back seat. The gentleman who had the English 
lady in charge, politely requested one of the Mexicans to 
give up his place, so that he, her protector, could be seated 
by her, and assist in holding her children. But to my sur- 
prise, contrary to all usages of stage-coach travelling in the 
United States, and to every thing else that I have observed 
in the distinguished politeness of the Mexican people, they 
positively refused ; and the lady, who could only ride on a 
back seat, was obliged to be positioned between the two in- 
teresting Mexicans ; they refusing also to give up the sides 
to a lady with an infant in her arms. I have been inform- 
ed, by gentlemen who have travelled in Europe, that such 
is the stubborn unkindness by which ladies are treated on 
that enlightened continent, and it has been with many feel- 
ings of shame that I have heard gentlemen, travelling in 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. ny 

Steamboats and stage coaches in the Union, express them- 
selves, that Americans pay too much attention to ladies; yet 
it has ever been my opinion, that if politeness should ever 
be extended from one human being to another, where a 
sacrifice of interest was to be made, without exception, 
the mothers of the human family should command that of- 
fering. 

Having made our exit from the city of Vera Cruz through 
the northern gate, we were met by our escort, mounted 
on small pacing nags, with jingling spurs, rattling swords 
and carbines. Our direction lay, for the most part of the 
night, along the margin of the sea, the road being over the 
drifted sand, often blown up and re-modelled by the northers; 
and during our ride over it, we were much annoyed by the 
sand fly peculiar to that region, as also by the slow rate the 
team of eight animals drew the sinking wheels of the dili- 
gencia over the ponderous road. During the night the air 
was filled with a species of large beetle, by name Cocuyos. 
These displayed wandering or floating fires, caused by in- 
tense phosphoric light, emitted from their bodies, said to be 
strong enough to enable a person to read by ; and I was 
reminded of the unparalleled victory which, in that re- 
gion of country, Cortes, with but two hundred of his fol- 
lowers, obtained over nearly one thousand of his fellow 
countrymen, under the command of Narvez ; the enemy 
mistaking the lights of the insect for so many matchlocks of 
their assailants. Our track from Vera Cruz to the city of 
Mexico, was the same, or nearly so, which the immortal 
Cortes and his brave companions travelled in the early con- 
quest of the country, leaving desolation and slaughtered 
thousands to cover his footprints ; and my mind was often 
filled with the many wonderful exploits performed by a few 
hundred of the most chivalrous spirits known in the early 
period of the sixteenth century. 

My journey, for the most part of the first day, was 
over scorched plains, having the temperature of the equi- 



58 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



noctial regions. This hot country, belting the whole coast 
of the Gulf of Mexico, extends into the interior, a distance 
of about fifty nailes, and is denominated the tierra caliente. 
Notwithstanding we had to delve our way over parched 
sands, yet there was often to be seen the deep black mould 
of fertile soil, on which was inconceivable luxuriancy of 
growth of many varieties of lovely aspect, and of aromatic 
wild flowers, and shrubbery, mingled and matted with the 
larger and smaller species of the umbrageous musquite 
growths, so impenetrable, through its multifarious thickness, 
to the view of man. Although the romantic beauties of 
this region were so pleasing to the eye, yet from the suffo- 
cating oppression produced from the sultry and relaxing 
heat of the tierra caliente, I was extremely impatient to 
ascend a higher temperature, more agreeable to my feelings; 
and also to be transported to an^lement beyond the reach 
of malaria vomito. 

It was not until after day light that I had my reflections 
called home, by the sudden halt of the diligencia at a 
Rancho, a collection of farm huts ; and before I had time to 
think what was to be done, one of the soldiers of our guard 
had rode close to the side of the diligencia, and informed 
the passengers that, there we were to have a new escort, 
adding also in the most polite manner, that he and his com- 
panions were about to leave us to our destinies ; all this was 
said with a most quizzical leer of his shining black eye at 
his military cap, which he had extended to the window of 
the carriage. The hint was too impressive to be resisted, 
and after every passenger had fingered his small change, 
and heard its parting jingle in the soldier's helmet, the hero 
of the night took his accomplished leave. 

An escort of Mexican soldiers, who are about to be re- 
lieved, are very particular in imparting the fact to travel- 
lers, and one of them will always linger with his extended 
hat in his hand, to receive any donations which may be 
thrown into it; when this is performed, he takes his aflTec- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 59 

tionate adieu, ar^d wishes the passengers a pleasant journey. 
Such duns proved to be troublesome, from the frequent 
change of escort; which, in some cases, would not have mer- 
rily trotted after us more than two or three miles, before we 
would have to take' leave of the corporal and his command, 
by each of us handing over our twenty-five cents. And I 
would therefore advise the Minister of War to consult with 
the Minister of Finance, as to more ad capiandum icays and 
means of filching the " rhino" from the pockets of defence- 
less men, women and children, who may be so unfortunate 
as to travel in the great republic of Mexico. Of little ser- 
vice does this guard often prove to be, to those depending 
on them ; for, as I was told, at the first sight of the bristled 
ladrones, the brave soldiers clap their spurs to the sides of 
their steeds, and make safe their retreat. However, as in 
Mexico, great show does much good, and thereby as much 
delights the Dictator, I could not but be reminded of the heroic 
proposition made by the commander of the Chinese forces 
to the British general, to fight their battles with blank car- 
tridges, as the Emperor would be just as much pleased with 
the reports of the guns, as if they had real lead bullets in 
them. 

But to return from the digression. Having descended 
from the diligencia at the Rancho, where our first change 
of animals was made, 1 expressed my surprise when I dis- 
covered that the road I had travelled was broad, and paved 
with round stone, precisely as the principal streets are in 
towns and cities in the United States. The road, which 
looked to me like a well-improved street, had, to prevent the 
washing of the pavement by the rains, on the outer side of 
its broad curbing, capacious conductors, formed of cement, 
in which article, from some cause I did not ascertain, the 
Mexicans seem to excel all other nations : or else, those 
sluices were strongly paved, and not unfrequently, at long 
and steep hills, they have been hewn out of solid rock, and 
laid in their places with admirable masonic precision. 



60 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



It was with much agreeable disappointment I was inform- 
ed, that the road had, for a distance of three hundred miles 
and upwards, been finished by the old Spaniards, precisely 
in the same fashion ; but it had been suffered in many places 
to go to decay by the Mexicans, from a want of energy, 
having exhausted all of their resources in revolutions, and 
the making of Presidents, Emperors, and Dictators — men so 
great — that upon -the broad expanse of this whole earth, the 
like have never been seen ; while, at the same time, the good 
people have been vastly imposed on and benighted in their 
downward condition. The numerous bridges, spanning 
ravines and water courses, all of arched masonry, are equal 
to any of the kind that I have seen or read of, and their 
antiquity has proved their durability. " This road has, for its 
protection against the invasions of foreign foes, and espe- 
cially the buccaneers of former times, castles erected on the 
most commanding eminences and passes, such as La Puente 
del Ray, Perote, &c. 

The diligencia arrived at La Puente del Ray, now call- 
ed the Peoples^ Bridge, in time for breakfast, and at that 
place I took ray meal, for the first time in a country public 
house of entertainment in Mexico, and more miserable food 
I never partook of Nine persons sat down in low chairs 
to a high and ponderous old table, on a dirt floor, which had 
spread on it an earthen bowl of half-done black beans, 
called Frijoles, and a like shaped bowl containing stewed 
chicken, similarly cooked. To complete the repast, we had 
sweetened bread to chime with the other delicious varieties. 

Although for an Englishman half-raw beef is requisite, I 
never yet found the human being who could eat half-done 
fowl. The old Belgian doctor, who constituted one of our 
party, declared that he had been so badly fed in some parts 
of Mexico upon half-cooked chickens, that he had, in self 
defence, been obliged to live on little monkeys. 

Although the scenery of La Puente del Ray was truly 
romantic and sublime, by our being positioned in a deep 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



61 



gorge between two mountains, or high hills, which abruptly- 
rose upon both hands, the green moss-covered rocks of 
whose precipitous sides hung in festoons of wild vines and 
flowers, in all the luxuriance of a tropical climate, the sum- 
mit of the one being crowned by a frowning old deserted 
castle, and both having at the same time a thickly matted, 
shaggy mane of musquite and other forest growths, upon 
their heights, while a rapid crystal stream w^ashed the feet 
of each, making its exit from under the spanned arches of 
La Puente del Ray ; yet with an unsatisfied appetite, to 
my view, it possessed a dark and loathsome appearance. 

Near to the Cascasa Diligencia, the illustrious Santa 
Anna was finishing a new building, which would cost, as I 
was informed, fifty thousand dollars. It might have been 
in consequence of the bad fare I had received at the place, 
but I was of the opinion, that I would not have consented 
to reside in the Dictator's palace, if, for so doing, I should 
receive the property from him as a donation, and I rejoiced 
when the diligencia was ready to depart from it. 

My first day's ride into the interior of Mexico, was not 
only interesting, but a new scene of existence to me. For 
as the morning's sun had cast his illuminating rays over the 
wild native scenery through which I was travelling, and I 
could at times behold, both far and near, a view spread out 
before me, differing from any thing before seen, which my 
fondest anticipations had imagined of its singular beauty. 
I had in fact ascended to the second eminence, or table 
land, called the tierra templada, or temperate region. 

Although the landscape, to my view, had changed by 
being removed from the gay sultry region of many blos- 
soming flowers, that borders upon the sea ; the temperate 
zona* abounded in a more stately growth of forest, for with 
the varieties of the musquite, and the liquid amber tree, I 
now beheld the tall and majestic cypress ; and as the dili- 
gencia would now and then wind down some craggy steep, 
into a deep glen, where my ears would be stunned by the wild 



62 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



screams of the parrots, and all the other beautifully plumed 
feathered tribes; it was only necessary to ascend the oppo- 
site height, to be transported again into the tierra templada, 
there to perceive the forest, a perfect medley, from its being 
indiscriminately mixed, and the whole woods so thickly 
matted and entwined, being apparently impervious to the 
footsteps of animals, with a scrubby, bushy growth of deep- 
est green colour, which unconsciously makes the eye de- 
light to dwell upon it. 

It should not now be neglected to remark, that much to 
my enjoyment I discovered the Orizava was not a portion 
of the range of mountains as before described, which holds 
the Gulf of Mexico to its place, as it appeared to be when 
first seen by me from the sea. But on the contrary, its 
towering height, as seen above all other eminences, de- 
ceived me by its distance, and I now discovered that the 
Orizava was far into the interior, and that I should have the 
privilege of looking up to it at any moment, while travelling 
the burning plains beneath; and whilst the sun was shining 
on me with intense heat, I could find some relief from my 
sufFerings by simply casting my eyes up to the region of 
perpetual winter, and as I looked upon the height, it seemed 
to be a crystal hemisphere, against which the rays of hght 
appeared to delight in spangled splendour, to sport time 
away; while, at the same moment, the many coloured 
clouds beneath appeared to struggle and roll in solemn 
grandeur, to acquire their native supremacy, and thus 
crown the monarch of mountains. 

As I progressed on my way, it was plainly perceptible 
that the whole region of country was volcanic, and that the 
hills and mountains did not the more exhibit this appearance 
than the vales and plains ; for not a rock, at any timefj was , 
to be seen, which did not show that its formation was by 
fire. All visible, was lava, and indeed, I travelled over a 
valley, every foot of which -was covered with it, having 
been shot up in spherical forms, and yet there was no moun- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



63 



tain near, of conical formation, from whence the lava could 
have been heaved into the valley by volcanic eruption. 

My first day's journey from the city of Vera Cruz was 
to Jalapa, a distance of about ninety miles, over a road dis- 
agreeable to travel on, in consequence of the continued jour- 
ney, and the thundering noise of the heavy diligencia on 
the pavement. And be it remembered, by way of giving 
an idea of the wealth of the Dictator of the Republic of 
Mexico, that all of the lands over which I had that day tra- 
velled, as I was informed, were exclusively the property of 
Santa Anna. 

Jalapa is said to be the most beautiful and agreeable town 
in Mexico, and a place of retreat from the vomito, by the 
inhabitants of the tierra caliente. Perpetual spring has her 
reign there, and vegetation, therefore, is ever verdant and 
blooming. • It is from that town that the medicine, to be 
found at the apothecaries, has derived its name. I was 
told that, for a long period after the conquest, this vegetable 
medicine was brought into market by the Indians, from the 
mountains, where the snakes were so abundant and danger- 
ous, that the white man never had the temerity to adventure 
for it. 

The town is built upon the steep declivity of a hill. In 
the Plaza, as it is called, or the market square, I, for the 
first time, beheld the Mexicans retailing their fruits, vege- 
tables, bread-stuffs, and meats to the citizens, and a filthy 
operation it was. Their marketing was heaped upon mats, 
or cotton cloths spread upon the pavement of the place, 
which was resorted to by both man and beast. It was here 
I left the old Belgian doctor, again to take his chances for 
little monkeys or half-cooked chicken, not though, without 
having first learned from him many interesting things of the 
people amongst whom I had to travel 

That which I chiefly delighted in, while at Jalapa, 
was the pleasing sight of the ladies, whose beauty seemed 
to partake of the eternal blossoming of their native region; 



64 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



for smiling loveliness appeared to have partially de- 
lighted to dwell upon their symmetrically angelic counte- 
nances, and while they could often be seen peering from 
behind the grated windows adorned with flowers, — yet no 
blossom was half so lovely, as the sweet rose that bloomed 
under the soft delicate brunette hue of their cheeks. 

At 10 o'clock, on the following morning after my arrival 
at Jalapa, I again took my departure in the diligencia, that 
day, to commence my ascent to the plain of Perote. I was 
then about to leave a region of perpetual humidity, and 
eternally green verdure ; for in the economy of nature, an all 
beneficent Providence has ordered, that, as the rains do not 
descend in that country for nine months in the year, the 
earth may be irrigated by humid vapours taken up from the 
sea, and descending on the lands, appearing like clouds, as 
they slowly and gently skimmed over, kissiogas it were, 
with liquid lips, the fields and spontaneous growth ; and by 
which means the germing vegetation, absorbing the va- 
pours, receives a sufficient nourishment to mature perfection. 

I had frequently observed, as I journeyed forward, 
houses built upon the road-side of reeds and sticks, set 
up endways, and thatched with rank grass or palm leaves — 
huts that indeed must have been very airy ; for between 
every reed and stick, interstices had been left for the free 
circulation of the atmosphere through the habitation. 

I observed also, at greater distances from the road, a num- 
ber of mounds thrown up as it were to the height of from 
ten to twenty feet, of conical form. These hillocks seemed 
to have been irregularly, and without design, cast up like so 
many ant-hills, and I at first imagined them to be Indian 
mounds or sepulchres, for the slain of some battle-field, 
or monuments of the aborigines of the country. I was 
suT"prised to find that these were likewise dwelling-places, 
and filled with inhabitants; being dirt-houses, which had 
been thrown up to prevent the intolerable heat of the sun 
from penetrating through them. 



TRAVELSINMEXICO. gg 

If I should be asked who or what are the population to 
be met with upon the highways, I would answer that, to me, 
they seemed to be but the original Totonacs and Compoal- 
bans who were in possession of that part of the country 
when Cortes discovered it; for the complexion and out- 
ward appearance of the larger number of people that I met 
with, were of the tawny and Indian caste, and, from their 
meek and spiritless appearance, a stranger would little sup- im- 
pose that murder and rapine were the predominant traits of 
their character ; and if any should be incredulous of the fact, 
it will only be necessary for them to travel once the thor- 
oughfare from the city of Mexico to Vera Cruz, to behold 
upon either hand the sad and many emblems of the crucifix 
over fallen travellers. And I do verily believe that there is 
not a mile of that melancholy road, that has not flowed 
with the blood of plundered and murdered individuals. 

After ascending a high hill which, in fact, grew into a 
mountain, about nine miles from Jalapa, to the left hand, was 
a vault, which had an old Spaniard deposited in it, in a stand- 
ing position, looking through a window down upon the road, 
and I had no doubt but that as the old fellow had been the 
terror of the highway when living, and the feeling predom- 
inant in death caused him thus to dispose of his mortal re- 
mains, that his ghastly aspect might, in grim death, frighten 
travellers. This, perhaps, was the same spirit that induced 
a celebrated horse-racer of my own State, who, when dy- 
ing, directed that his body should be buried upright, under 
the judges' stand of a race-track, with his face towards the 
coming-out place. 

But as I was going also to remark — to the right hand I 
beheld a scene of the most picturesque sublimity of any other 
that had come under my view ; and the reocfer must not 
consider my raptures extravagant, in my a<^miration of the 
face of nature, in this country, for pen cannot describe the 
excess of romantic beauty it affords, when seen in a volca- 
nic region, under a tropical sun, and as he approaches each 
5 



gg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

object in regular succession, every thing in its turn will ap- 
pear the most grand — the most wonderful. 

Whilst ascending the road which lay on the side of a 
mountain, on turning my attention to the right hand, I look- 
ed over an extensive valley, spotted with farms, and having 
a village in its centre, sending up high above its walls its 
many spires, pointing to the heavens. As I raised my 
eyes above the plain, a lofty cataract met my view, appa- 
rently gushing in one large and solid body of water about 
midway from the far distant opposite mountain ; and near 
to the fall of water, was another village just above it, situ- 
ated on a slip of table land, stretching along the side of the 
high mountain. To realize the grandeur of the view, would 
obhge any one to see it for himself. I solicit the reader to 
picture to his mind two lovely villages, in sight at the same 
time — one in the plain beneath him, the other sitting like the 
Queen of cities on the slope of a towering height ; while 
the silvery tide of a pure, foaming and bounding stream wa- 
ters the valley beneath. At the same time, the tolling of 
the bells, from the many cupolas of the villa in the valley, 
came sweetly echoed back by those of the village on the 
mountain in the distance, in tones just heard — like the 
scarcely audible melodious strains of the iEolian harp, to 
charm the weary to sleep, and the sleeping to dreams of 
Elysium, and the traveller from the bosom of his family and 
home. 

My journey to the Pueblo, a village and castle of Perote, 
was unaccompanied by an incident worthy of remark, since 
on t\iat day I was fortunate enough to escape meeting with 
the Vohntier Gard, a band of ladrones, who had given them- 
selves that distinguished appellation. Yet the view of the 
country, whenever I chose to look abroad for recreation or 
information, was always instructive and full of interest. I 
was then about to enter the tien^a fria, or the cold region, 
the last great natural elevation that would place me on the 
summit of the Andes, and in the midst of the Cordilleras, as 



TRAVELSINMEXICO. giy 

they spread out over the table land of Mexico, as the Andes 
pass the Isthmus of Darien. The general elevation of the 
table land of Mexico is estimated at about six thousand feet 
above the level of the sea, but gradually declines towards 
the northern departments. 

The plain of Perote is said to have been, in the time of 
the Aztecs, covered w^ith a forest of heavy growth ; but, to 
my view, it possessed not a single tree, or spontaneous shrub. 
All appeared to be a cold, dry, barren waste, in the midst of 
which, at an elevation of between seven and eight thousand 
feet above the level of the sea, sat the dark and dreary- 
looking castle of Perote ; whilst, at the same time, at a con- 
siderable distance, although it appears to be near at hand, is 
the Corfre de Perote, with a large square rock of box-form 
crowning its summit, from which the mountain takes its 
name. The rock, to me, looked as if it had been placed 
there to stop a hole beneath ; which, perhaps, if the Mexi- 
cans were to remove, as a wag once observed, they could 
have a flame of fire spouting upwards, sufficient to afford 
candle-light for every family in the whole country. 

Corfre de Perote is said to be at an elevation of about 
twelve thousand feet above the sea, and here, although it is 
not sufficiently cold to induce the natives to have chimneys 
to their houses, or fires otherwise, the skin of either man or 
beast is never suffiased with moisture, or a genial glow of 
warmth — the whole surface having a perpetually dry and 
most indescribably uncomfortable sensation, which produces 
a despondency and loathsomeness of feeUng, perhaps more 
sensibly felt at Perote than at any other district of Mexico. 

I did not reach the Puebla of Perote until after 7 o'clock, 
P. M., notwithstanding my anxious solicitude to arrive there 
sooner. I felt desirous of seeing the Texians who were 
confined in the fortress, and more especially, Mr. Joseph E. 
Cruse, a young gentleman who had been raised to the mer- 
cantile business at Lynchburg, Va., my own home. But 
the diligencia arrived too late for the castle to be visited. I 



68 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



had much sympathy for Mr. C, for he was one of the San 
Antonio prisoners who was not taken in arms, and had vis- 
ited Texas to recover his health ; and hard was his fate, to 
have, shortly after my visit, paid the debt of nature, in so 
cheerless a place as Perote. Grievous must it have been to 
his aged parent thus to part with a son, in the sunshine of 
youth. 

At Perote my fare was but little better than the breakfast 
I sat down to on the first day of my travel, and I hailed 
with delight the summons at midnight for the departure of 
the diligencia. As day dawned, the objects that met my 
view were the Ranchos, the miserable open huts inhabited 
by Indians, the indolent and the poor; and heaven knows 
how they obtain a living — certainly I do not. As I jour- 
neyed onward, it was not without beholding the extended 
mode of cultivating and grazing the land ; and first the Ha- 
cienda, a farm of vast extent, covered with green verdure, 
having multitudes of stock feeding upon it, and attended by 
herdsmen and shepherds, which would forcibly recall to the 
mind of any individual the days of the Latins so poetically 
described by Virgil in his Georgics. 

Generally, of near proximity to the hacienda, would be a 
Pueblo, built of sun-burnt bricks, called a dohis, and having 
also its costly church of lofty towers. In consequence of 
the indisposition of one of the passengers at a Pueblo, we 
stopped at it ; and I took occasion, for the first time, of en- 
tering a church in Mexico, and indeed the first time that I 
had ever beheld the interior of a completely furnished Ro- 
man Catholic house of worship. The first object which 
met my view was a badly clad lady, who no doubt needed 
the consolations of religion, for the expression of her coun- 
tenance was the very picture of sorrow. She was surround- 
ed by candles, although the high sun never burned with 
more brilliancy, and streamed its illuminating rays down 
through the great dome oT the edifice ; she was kneeling 
before a richly gilt, or golden altar, on which was a full 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. QQ 

length likeness, in a highly ornamented frame, of her saint. 
My attention was soon diverted from her devout and solemn 
aspect, by hearing the heart-felt suppUcations of a beautiful 
little girl, who was bowed before, to me, an unknown saint. 
My eyes also caught the view of a wax figure, dressed in 
black, and with a flowing robe. That statue, I remarked, to 
a passenger, of the Roman Catholic faith, was a good like- 
ness of Thomas Jefferson ; but he informed me that it was 
intended for Joseph, the husband of Mary. I replied to my 
good-natured friend, that I did not before know that black 
silk shorts and knee-buckles were worn in Joseph's time. 
Being again summoned to the diligencia, my thoughts for 
some time dwelt on the subject of religion. 

As before remarked, my attention had been directed to 
the Haciendas as 1 passed them. In one or more of the 
deeper valleys of Perote, I saw that the improved American 
ploughs were used for tillage ; and a wealthy Mexican, a 
noble benefactor of his people, had at one time made a large 
importation of these ploughs, designing to introduce them 
generally among the farmers of his country. But one of 
the glorious revolutions of Mexico was coeval with the be- 
nificence of the good citizen, and his ploughs shared a scat- 
tered and ruinous fate, in the midst of resounding arms and 
the havocs of war. Thus the people lost in their destruc- 
tion a more beneficial revolution in their agricultural sys- 
tem, than ever the sword has wrought for them in obtaining 
their independence, or in raising men to high stations. The 
plough universally in use in Mexico, is the Instrument hand- 
ed by the Romans to their posterity. The old Spaniards, 
and their descendants, prejudiced the minds of these people 
against the successful operation of that spirit called im- 
provement ; and in this respect the Yankee nation, by a 
liberal mindedness in " trying all things, and holding fast 
to that which is good," have advanced about two thousand 
years ahead of their .neighbours, not only in agriculture, but 
in all the arts and sciences practised in the civilized world. 



70 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

On the plain of Pueblo are said to be several hot springs, 
one of w^hich I passed. It suddenly gushed from ■■ under 
the earth by the side of the road, in a bold stream, about 
three or four feet wide — and, as it rapidly glided av^^ay, I 
could but be reminded, in observing the vapour which as- 
cended from it, of the many beneficial results of steam 
power. However, the Mexicans were not suffering the 
blessings of hot water to pass off unappreciated, and ap- 
plied to some purpose, for I perceived a party of them near 
the fountain-head of the spring, making a pond for their 
horses to bathe in. 

During the day's ride I arrived in view of what is said to 
be two perpetually snow-capped peaks, beside that of the Ori- 
zava, between which my journey would lay, on my road to the 
city of Mexico. The Popocatepetl, being interpreted from 
^ the Indian, means " the hill that smokes." It is estimated to 
be two thousand feet higher than Mont Blanc, in Europe. 
Its top is of conick form, and notwithstanding its immense 
height, from an inclination of its head towards the north, I 
could, as I passed, plainly perceive the funnelled cavity that 
opened from its summit. To my view this mountain was 
less mantled with that pure element snow than the Orizava. 

From its appellation, the presumption would be, that 
smoke would be perpetually seen issuing from this volcano; 
but no emissions of flaring sparks, ashes, or smoke was be- 
held by me ; all was still and tranquil ; yet the evidences of 
its terrible combustion in former times, were discoverable 
from about one-half of its height being covered with lava, 
presenting a vast pile of dark matter, without having in a 
single instance a particle of vegetation to relieve the eye ; 
still I was informed that a distant and dead sound was heard 
by those who approached the mountain. Mr. Prescott, in 
speaking of this volcanic mountain, beautifully remarks — 
" Soaring towards the skies, with its silver sheet of ever- 
lasting snow, it was seen far and wide over the broad plains 
of Mexico and Pueblo — the first object which the morning's 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 71 

sun greeted in his rising — the last where his evening rays 
were seen to linger, shedding a glorious effulgence over its 
head, that contrasted strikingly with the ruinous waste of 
sand and lava immediately below, and the deep fringe of 
funeral pines that surrounded its base." 

Under the heat of a tropical sun, and the appearances 
which all creation in Mexico presents, of devouring fire, 
evidently show that the time has been when Nature, in her 
strong convulsions, has exhibited the resplendent scene of a 
world on fire, and when the funeral pile in struggling throes 
was being extinguished, man, in the blindness of his reason 
and superstition, snatched a torch, and, in feeble imitation, 
attempted to perpetuate the eternal embers by planting it on 
the top of the high pyramid of Cholula, erected on the plain 
of Pueblo, in commemoration of an imaginary visit made 
to that country by their god Quetzalcoatl. 

Diego Ordaz, at the head of nine Spaniards, is said to 
have the glory of being the first person who ever attempted 
to ascend the Popocatepetl. Its summit, however, since the 
days of the renowned Diego Ordaz, has been gained by 
others, and I was told of one individual who did not, for two 
years, recover from the sufferings he had to encounter in 
the enterprise : for, besides bleeding at the ears, and eyes, 
and nose, his lungs suffered much from the difficulty he ex- 
perienced of respiration, which, for the space of time above 
mentioned, produced an oppression in the breast. 

While my meditations were occupied in beholding the 
stupendous spectacle of the Popocatepetl, I had to turn my 
eyes in another direction, to look upon the Iztaccihuatl, 
which the Indians called the " White Woman." This moun- 
tain, clad in its white garment, and made brilliant and span- 
gled by large flakes of ice, bleached by the cold blasts of 
centuries, was also denominated by the aborigines, the wife 
of its taller and more fiery neighbour. The elevation of 
Iztaccihuatl I have never seen noticed, nor could I ascertain 
from my inquiries that it had ever been taken. 



72 " TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

The diligencia arrived, on the evening of the 26th inst., 
at the city (though contrary to the meaning of the name) of 
Pueblo. This place has also the distinguished appellation of 
Puehla de los Anglos, " the town of the angels," acquiring 
this heavenly cognomen from the belief of the natives, 
which no doubt was the working of an ingenious and wily 
priestcraft, to wit, the angels of heaven condescended to 
quit the throne of God, and descended to the town of Pueb- 
la, there to work in vile stone and mortar, in the erection of 
the truly large and costly cathedral of that place. It is cer- 
tainly a great misfortune, resulting in the over-anxiousness 
or weak-mindedness of the clergy of any country, to thus 
impose upon the superstitious credulity of an ignorant peo- 
ple. As for myself, I had just as soon believe in the fabled 
'^ legends of the Aztecs' sanguinary war god, as in the absur- 
dities believed by the Mexicans of the town of the angels. 
I say that it is to be regretted that a religion, originally pure, 
should have been so wickedly and falsely perverted by those 
professing to be the heralds of Christ, as to impose on a 
willing people. The impossibilities of truth, are but in the 
disgust of the minds of the intelligent, to throw doubt and 
disbelief upon the whole fabricated institution, which results 
in atheism, or else, in after times, in the progress of man's 
enlightenment, to raise up enemies to the church, who will 
uproot and overthrow the whole system, and on its ruined 
foundation erect a plan of pristine pureness, upon the truth 
as it is. I do not think it my duty slurringly to garble the 
truth, but to speak it entire, in whatever I may have been im- 
pressed, of men and things, religion and politics. 

I arrived in Pueblo in time to make a hasty visit to the 
Cathedral de los Anglos. It is erected of dressed stone, and 
its dimensions are large. Its interior is approached by a 
short flight of steps, covering the whole extent of the base- 
ment of the building, which gives to the whole an admira- 
ble proportion of height, for its length and breadth. As the 
visiter enters, he is overwhelmed by the number of saints 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 73 

and angels that strike his view. Before the altar rise two 
columns to the ceiUng, said to be of solid silver ; but as the 
dusk of evening had set in, I was prevented from making a 
more enlarged examination, for the doors were to be fasten- 
ed, to the exclusion of spectators and worshippers. 

Pueblo de los Anglos is said to contain above one hundred 
thousand inhabitants. The diligencia took its departure 
from that celebrated town between two and three o'clock, 
the following morning. 

Having stopped at daybreak at a small town, or Pueblo, 
for a change of animals, myself and fellow travellers ran 
into a Meson, or Mexican tavern, where we obtained a cup 
of chocolate, which had been boiled and frothed by the 
hands of a beautiful Mexican girl; which being consumed, 
Brother Jonathan, (for such was the appellation given to the 
Pennsylvania stage driver, by all foreigners who travelled 
the road,) was to take us that day to the end of our journey. 
We had not proceeded far before we came in broad view of 
the dead man and his wife's mountain, on our right hand, 
which exhibited the most singular phenomena of two hu- 
man beings, in perfect profile likeness, on its summit, in ex- 
tended postures, reminding me of my boyish days, when, 
with my compeers, we would leave our compressed figures 
upon banks of snow. 

In passing the ranges of the Popocatepetl and the Iztac- 
cihuatl, I was pleased to see that the mountain was covered 
with a grove of timber of good size, for I there saw oaks 
and pines of the same dimensions that I had beheld in 
old Virginia ; the colder regions being better adapted 
to the growing of forest trees than the warmer climates.* 
And it should ever be remembered by the reader that, 
whatever else the traveller may behold, he is nevertheless 
never out of sight of the crosses of melancholy bearing, 
being monuments erected over the bones of murdered hu- 
man beings, and thus consecrated. 

My progress over this mountain, although cold, was inter- 



>74 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

esting, from the many crowds of Arriei'os, with their cargoes 
on packed mules, a large party of whom were loaded with 
the specie of the second indemnity from the Mexican to 
the United States government. As the climax of the moun- 
tain had now been gained, and we had turned on the des- 
cent, the scene was also changed, for the far-famed valley 
of Mexico was then, like a map, spread out before our 
view; and indeed it was a lovely and magnificent sight to 
behold, although the sublimity of the scene did not realize 
the expectations of my excited imagination, from the rap- 
turous descriptions I had received of it from other travel- 
lers. 

The day was favourable — for the clear, blue vault of hea- 
ven was without a dark spot to dim the exceeding and pe- 
culiar serenity of the skies of that elevated and rarefied re- 
gion, the atmosphere of which was so light and thin, aided 
by the brilliant gleaming of the sun, that the eye could over- 
come space, and comprehend distant objects, with a beauty 
surprising to one raised in a more dense and a lower cli- 
mate. Hence it is, I have no doubt, that that plain has bor- 
rowed half its charms. 

Yet to the minds of the conquerors to whom America 
was a new world, and when the valley of Mexico was in a 
state of nature, not as now, mainly presenting a parched 
and barren waste, but under the dominion and care of the 
Aztecs, the forest of ages towering high in the air, and cast- 
ing up its umbrageous branches, relieved and freshened a 
scene the loveliness of which perhaps might have been un- 
rivalled ; for nature, like the beauty of a woman, is more 
admirable when beheld in its native simplicity ; and it can 
easily therefore be accounted for, why the early Spaniards 
looked' upon the valley of Tenochtitlan, so called by the In- 
dians, as the promised land — the Elysium upon earth. 

I here quote the scientific outlines of the geography 
of the Mexican Valley, by Mr. Prescott, as they could not 
have come under the immediate knowledge of a traveller. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. i^c 

" Midway across the continent, somewhat nearer the Pacific 
than the Atlantic ocean, at an elevation of nearly seven 
thousand five hundred feet, is the celebrated valley of Mex- 
ico. It is of an oval form, about sixty-seven leagues in cir- 
cumference, and is encompassed by a towering rampart of 
porphyritic rocks, which nature seems to have provided, 
though ineffectually, to protect it from invasion." He also 
remarks that "five lakes are spread over the valley, occu- 
pying one-tenth of its surface." Thus, as it were, at one 
view, bursts upon the astonished traveller, village, city, lakes, 
plains, and mountains, together with a view of the culture, 
and the different kinds of crops, as husbanded by the Mexi- 
cans, to interest the beholder, as he journeys along. 

I could only admire the extensive fields spread out before 
me, for the valley of Mexico is justly renowned for its fer- 
tility ; all the lands are said to be capable of cultiva- 
tion by irrigation, from the abundance of water afforded 
from streams and lakes. Thus, whilst I mi^ht, upon the 
right hand, be pained to see the sterileness of a tract of 
country, made so, perhaps, by the neglect of its opulent 
owner, and appropriated as a common for grazing ; on the 
left I would be greeted by the pleasing prospect of miles in 
extent, and as far as the eye could reach, of lands cultivated 
alone in maize, or Indian corn. And while now I would 
arrive at verdant nooks, with acres of land cultivated in 
chili, or Indian pepper, of which the inhabitants make con- 
siderable use — and I was informed that a single individual, 
from one crop of chili alone, realized the immense sum of 
fifty thousand dollars — and then I would come upon the 
green and flowery fields, cultivated to feed the cochineal 
insect. But what the more attracted my attention was the 
deep green, wide-spreading aloe, called by the Mexicans 
Maguey. This plant has, in its perfection, a stem shooting 
up to ten or fifteen feet in height, with an appearance of 
clustered flowers at its top when ripe — the stem, or stalk of 
a liquid pithy substance, is consumed in a raw state by the 



.j.gj TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

natives. But such being the variety of the uses to which 
this spontaneous plant is appropriated by the Mexicans, I 
shall speak of its multifarious properties and consumption, 
when my longer travels and residence in the country will 
better enable me to describe them. 

The view of the valley of Mexico is certainly beautiful 
and grand, and but for the painful absence of timber, and 
the vast sterihty of much of its territory, might, perhaps, be 
the most magnificent sight any where to behold upon the face 
of the globe. There is no country in the world, from the 
best information I could obtain, where individual citizens 
hold as large bodies of land as in Mexico, and it is estima- 
ted that, from seven millions of inhabitants, in all probabili- 
ty, less than five hundred thousand are the owners of all 
the terra jirma of that rich country. 

As I progressed, I was soon brought in bold view, by my 
close contact, with the lake region. One of these lakes near 
the city of Mexico, I was informed, was thirty miles in 
length, and looked to be the bay or port of the great city. 
Although the lake is said to be of that considerable extent, 
yet, as my eyes, in that atmosphere, were cast over its 
transparent blue waters, and the dark reflections of the 
mountains were thrown upon it, the space did not seem to 
me to be one-half, or more than one-third the distance. This 
lake by name is Tezcuco — has an abundance of fish, and 
during the most of the year is inhabited by large flocks of 
water-fowls — and it was on that lake that Mr. Wilcox, 
the American consul, was in the habit of amusing himself 
by firing small shot from a cannon upon the ducks. 

There is on the border of the lake, Agua calienta, or hot 
springs, the waters of which are used for bathing purposes. 
During the nine months of the dry season, when the lakes 
recede from their high water marks, all the shores that have 
been covered by water, as was the case when seen by me, 
had a thick incrustation, or deposit of carbonate of soda, 
which is scraped up by the Indians, and sold by them for 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 177 

the purpose of making soap — as the inhabitants are com- 
pelled to use that article ; for not a sufficiency of wood is 
burned in Mexico to produce a supply of ashes for the ma- 
nufacture of soap. 

All of the water, as likewise the soil of Mexico, is strong 
ly impregnated with carbonate of soda, as I had continual 
opportunities of witnessing. The lake water exhibited the 
phenomenon in a more perceptible manner than the flowing 
streams, and some of them were stronger than others, by 
the difference of the quantity of their deposits. I once rode 
on the margin of a small lake, where the hoofs of my ani- 
mal as it passed over the deposit of carbonate of soda, made 
sounds resembling that of snow when trod upon. It might 
be inquired — from whence does the water of the lakes ob- 
tain the mineral 1 for but few of them have streams from 
the mountains running into them, being but stagnant pools 
of rain water. The reply is obvious — the water extracts its 
soda constituent from the earth, which seems to have an in- 
exhaustible amount of that most ostensible component of its 
parts. This one thing, however, I was unwillingly made 
satisfied of — the water of Mexico has an active medical ef- 
fect, as all foreigners who go to that country can testify, 
from the fact of its deleterious effects having carried many 
to the tomb, by conferring d chronic diarrhoea on those who 
partake freely of its use. The water of the city of Mexico 
is said to be more pernicious to the health of a stranger 
than any other in all the Republic. The entire use of rain 
water, I was informed, proved always to be a specific rem- 
edy for the afflicted. 

But what, as much as any thing else, attracted my atten- 
tion, was a mound which had been thrown up by a volcanic 
eruption, immediately on the margin of the lake. This 
mound of lava seemed to me to have been about two hun- 
dred feet in diameter at its base, and one hundred in height. 
Its form was precisely like that of a funnel, with its greater 
diameter resting on the surface, while at the same time there 



78 



TKAVELS IN MEXICO. 



was a flue or vent through which the volcanic fire exhaust- 
ed itself. 

As the diligencia entered on the great causeway which 
separates lake Chalco from Xochicalo, a passenger, familiar 
with the country and its history, informed me that this 
bridge was not only made by the Aztecs, but was the same 
identical track which Cortes and his followers passed on the 
8th November, 1519, the day on which they first set foot in 
the city of Mexico. 

As I advanced over the diversified and beautifully pictu- 
resque environs of the Capital, I could behold before me a 
large and compact city, which had for its first and most 
striking features, white walls and lofty steeples ; and, I dare 
say, for the number, the magnitude and height, the religious 
buildings of the present day are not unlike what they were 
in the day when the conqueror first beheld them, the tower- 
ing temples of the gods of Anahuac. Thus, on the evening 
of the 26th of November, unharmed by ladrones, or any 
other casualty, in a fatigued condition, and covered with 
dust, I arrived in the city of Mexico — too late, however, to 
behold any of the beauties of the place I had entered. 

My first care, after the custom-house officers had exami- 
ned my baggage — for in Mexico there are revenue officers 
in every town in the interior — was to take up my lodgings 
in the Gran Sociadad, a French Hotel, in Holy Ghost street. 



!S^A((ll ^ 



"W 



!^'' L 



JllL iV ^ 



■imiKWi'i.i-^ ^0 




■0 





of- 




'ayUM/irf 



Zit/v otStncLxu-ThL"^ 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



79 



CHAPTER V. 

The Overthrow of Cortes. City of Mexico. Receding of tlie Lake. View of Holy Ghost 
street. A large Church. A Jlexiean Lady. Gen. Thompson's residence. An elegant 
part of the town. The streets of Mexico. E.irthquakes. Style of Arohiiecture. The 
city of Mexico. The i)roponion of a Spanish house. The population of the city of Mex- 
ico. Gen. Thompson's hospitality. Baron La Rook. The Plaza. The Palace. The 
Cathedral. Remarkable Carriages. Basalt Stone. Interior of the Cathedral. Mister 
Officer an American artist. Virgin of Remedios. Tomb of Iturbide. Rarefied air 
The Convent of San Francisco. The Government Palace, Mint, &c. A general officer 
at the reception door. Capt. Covtes, of the Grenadiers. National Monument. Iturbide's 
Palace. Santa Anna Theatre. Numtrous Beggars. Journeymen Beggars. Feats of 
strength. Dress of the La/.arinos. 

After the overthrow of Cortes, upon that memorable oc- 
casion of the noche triste, the melancholy night when it is 
said that he lost more than four hundred of his followers, 
and all of his artillery, which was overturned from the 
causeways into the lakes and dykes — and having made his 
retreat from the city, but to rally and reinforce his army, 
which being done, he speedily returned, to complete a con- 
quest which had hardly commenced, and having with a force 
much more numerous and better provided, retraced his steps 
to Tacaba, he made that place his head-quarters. The 
future and renowned Conqueror having ascended a high 
temple of Tacaba, was observed resting his cheek upon 
his elbow, in a most pensive and melancholy mood, and 
while thus absorbed in the deep meditations of the moment, 
during which a tear had trickled down his cheek, an officer 
who had observed him, ventured in his sympathy to touch 
the shoulder of his general, and in cheering tones bade 
his commander to hope for victory and for conquest. 

The mind of Cortes at the time, like that of his Master 
when overlooking Jerusalem, whose standard of the Cross 
he chiefly delighted to plant in the pathway of his victo- 
ries, was filled with love and admiration for the city of Mex- 
ico, which caused him to exclaim that " it was the most 



gQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

beautiful thing on earth," and in the deep sorrow of his heart 
he lamented that soon, by his hand, the place that teemed 
with countless multitudes of inhabitants, must perish by fa- 
mine and the sword ; and that the towers, the temples, and 
the palaces, that glittered so resplendently in the sun, must 
soon be demolished, and buried beneath the floods of the ca- 
nals and lakes — for they would not give up their idols, and 
peaceably surrender to the standard of Castile. And thus, 
like the Son of Jehovah, he would have exclaimed, " Oh Je- 
rusalem ! Jerusalem, how often would I have gathered thee 
as the hen doth her brood, under her wings, but ye would 
not." To the mind of Cortes, with, as it were, the most 
beautiful fancy sketch of nature's pencil thrown wide to his 
view, with a fair city in the midst, it might have at that day 
seemed to be the most lovely sight on earth; and I have no 
doubt that the city of Mexico, as it then appeared, was pe- 
culiarly adapted to exhibit to the view and fancies of hu- 
man beings, more loveliness, and charms of art and nature 
blended, than the boasted appearance of the city as it now 
is — for the simple reason that in the Aztic city there was 
variety — while to the contrary, the Spanish cannot be pos- 
sessed of any. 

The four great causeways of the Aztics, that stretched 
through the lakes, like so many bridges over seas, and in- 
tersecting the centre of the city ; the many high temples, 
and lofty white towers ; the imperial and the nobles' pa- 
laces, covering acres of land ; the floating gardens ; the 
groves ; the canals, filled with light canoes, rapidly passing 
and repassing ; while the grand whole was crowded with 
minor and inferior buildings ; — nothing of all which are to 
be seen now — but upon the demolished ruins and fallen rub- 
bish of departed magnificence, has been erected the mo- 
dern, although the oldest city on the American continent, 
by Spanish architects and Spanish conquerors. 

The city is of square form, and, although not upon an ele- 
vation, is yet built upon a level dry plain, which has result- 



TRAVELSIN MEXICO. gi 

ed, first, from the fact, that the old city was used mainly in 
filling up the canals ; and, lastly, that the great lake of Tez- 
caco has receded between one and two miles from the 
walls of the city, which cause is attributed to the more ra- 
pid evaporation of the water from the lakes, since the plain 
of Mexico has been totally divested of its forests, so that it 
might the more resemble the plains of Castile, and remind 
the Spaniard of his European home. The streets of Mexico 
run north and south, east and west, intersecting One ano- 
ther, so that the squares are of an exactness, and equally of 
the same dimensions. 

On the following morning, after my arrival in the city of 
Mexico, I rose from my bed refreshed, from having had a 
good night's sleep, notwithstanding the eternal ringing of 
bells; and no one can believe that the music of those 
ding-dong instruments was the lullaby that soothed me into 
the arms of Somnus ; but my confinement and fatigue in 
the diligencia, the last four days and nights, had welcomed 
the blessings of sleep to my heavy eyelids. Having thus 
enjoyed one continued and uninterrupted night's repose, I 
left my couch, animated with the prospect of beholding the 
finest city in the world, as I always had heard the city of 
Mexico to be ; and so glowingly had the descriptions of the 
metropolis been given by others, that I almost hesitate to 
give mine own respecting it ; — however, I shall attempt, in 
my own way, to give some detail of this proud and famed 
place. 

So impatient had I become of seeing what was to be 
seen, and knowing whatever was to be learned, that I had 
not more than finished dressing than I threw open my win- 
dow and thrust out my head, to catch an astonishing ghmpse, 
or else I should not have had an appetite for breakfast ; and, 
in fact, I could not, at the moment, but be reminded of the 
eagerness of animated boyhood, whose anxiety has been 
roused to such a tip-toe height, when about to visit a show, 
6 



82 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



that he cannot prevent himself from taking a peep under 
the canvass before entering the door-way. 

And what did I behold ? — I first cast my eyes through a 
range of buildings, far to the south; and the street seemed 
there to have been met by a high and grand barrier of a 
mountain, the beauty of which was heightened, inconceiva- 
bly, by the distant view of the long avenue through which 
it was seen. As the golden beams of the morning sun were 
shed over it, it seemed to gleam with refulgence in its airy 
elevation. I then commenced slowly to retrace my view ; 
and, as my eyes wandered from side to side, and from house 
to house, the street seemed to be filled with a motley crowd 
of gentlemen, and priests muffled in their cloaks and gowns ; 
ladies, with their rebosees, a shawl drawn closely over their 
heads and faces, and crossed on their breasts, all slowly and 
solemnly walking along, as if they were going to or return- 
ing from a funeral ; and I really should have been depressed 
by serious thoughts, if the scene had not been interrupted, 
here and there, by little mouse-coloured donkeys, loaded 
with charcoal, and driven by Indians, harshly screaming 
aloud, Caobona ! Caobona ! — and there was the water-car- 
rier, loaded down with the weight of his earthen vessels, 
swung from his head, hanging before his breast and on his 
back ; and, dearly, thought I, did he earn his living. While 
the greater number of the people, the paupers, standing in 
groups, or seated on the way-side, had drawn my gaze, my 
attention was suddenly startled by the clang of trumpets and 
the beating of drums, sounding a retreat from some out- 
post, where they had been doing duty all the previous night, 
and were now returning to head-quarters. The houses were 
all closely built together, without a single vacant lot, or in- 
tervening space between them ; — all presented one massive 
front of ponderous construction, of about three stories in 
height — ^^never higher — but a story in Mexico is twenty-five, 
or, at least, twenty feet, but never less than fifteen. 

There was, on a moderate calculation, a large, high 



TRAVELSINMEXICO. g3 

church, whose cupolas were well and numerously supplied 
with different sized noisy bells, for about every other square. 
The roofs of the houses were all terraced, which contributed 
to add considerably to the flat, weighty appearance of the 
whole buildings ; and, as my eyes, like the fools, spoken of — 
somewhere — had been wandering to the end of the world 
to the south, they had no sooner returned home than, truant 
like, they forthwith shot to the north ; and, in like manner, 
as to the south, they were arrested by precisely the same 
panoramic view of mountain, churches, houses, donkeys 
and people ; and in so perfect an exactness, that the moun- 
tain seemed but to have been the mirror by which the whole 
was reflected — and my faculty of seeing soon wandered 
back to me. 

But I should not neglect to remark that, just before my 
vision returned entirely hom€, obliquely to the opposite from 
my window, they caught the glimpse of something attrac- 
tive, which, upon a steady and minute inspection, proved to 
be, certainly, a beautiful Mexican lady; her dark hair; her 
light brunette complexion ; and, above all, — for the light of 
heaven seemed to gather lustre from them — her soft and in- 
expressibly melting black eyes were playing havoc with 
my susceptible heart ; and I do not know that the window 
would have contained me, if my Catholic friend had not 
warned me to leave it, as the Holy Ghost was passing along 
the street. I was thus reluctantly compelled to close the 
glass door, and go to breakfast. 

My breakfast being over, my first care was to find Gen. 
Thompson's residence, and deliver to him my despatch 
from Judge Upsher, Secretary of State, U. S., and my 
commission for the usual exequator from the Mexican go- 
vernment ; that having been soon accomplished, (for the re- 
sidence of the American minister was near at hand,) and, 
after having been most kindly and politely received by Gen. 
Thompson, by v^^hom I was invited to dine, I resolved to 
gratify the strong impulse of my feelings ; that of beholding 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



84 

the city of Mexico. The hotel of the Gran Sociadad fronts 
on Holy Ghost street ; and that street having been the first 
which I had seen, and on which I had made my debut, and 
feeling desirous of viewing one of the more beautiful streets 
of Mexico, I of course did not return from the minis- 
ter's residence to the high cognomened Holy Ghost street; 
not supposing that that street could have exhibited a spe- 
cimen of the best improvement in the exalted city of Mex- 
ico, I therefore, naturally enough, hastened to search for a 
more elegant part of the town. 

The broad and well paved streets of the city of Mexico, 
being perfectly straight, stretch out on a level plane; the 
only relief to the eye of the looker on being that, it matters 
not in whatever street you may happen to be, tui'n whatso- 
ever direction you may, you will, through the long per- 
spective, behold the mountains, which never failed to at- 
tract my attention from the heavy masonry of the build- 
ings. There are no scattered houses here, but the entire 
squares are built up in one soHd block, being, as it were, 
but one vast edifice, and having no back grounds ; for every 
foot of earth is covered with stone and mortar ; and, as the 
walls are all united, it is said that little detriment has ever 
been sustained there by earthquakes, which are always 
more or less felt in the spring season, saving the occasional 
cracking of walls, and the falling of some few houses on 
the suburbs, built of sun-dried brick. The dimensions of the 
houses of the city of Mexico surpass those of Vera Cruz 
and Puebla; yet the architecture is the same. I hardly 
know what to denominate the style, unless.it should be the 
Arabic or Moorish, mixed with Indian. It is true, that 
some of the churches seem to be of the Gothic. This one 
thing, however, is certain; — I cannot remember to have 
seen, in any other city, or to have examined in books, si- 
milar species of architecture. I have, therefore, been forced 
to conclude that it is a style unique. 

The city of Mexico, in its appearance, is more compact, 



TRAVELSIN MEXICO. 95 

and, as a whole, in that respect, looks better than any other 
city that I have before seen ; yet I must confess that I felt 
disappointed, from all that I had before heard, in not be- 
holding a more magnificent outside show ; for the coarsely 
stuccoed walls of the houses, with but few exceptions, hav- 
ing windows to their first story, looked to me as only being 
clumsy ramparts for the garrisons contained behind them ; 
at the same time, the door-ways, in the centre, from twelve 
to fifteen feet in height, swung upon ponderous hinges, hav- 
ing many locks of curious construction, appeared to be the 
huge gates of a fortress. However, the Spaniard, from a 
spirit of distrust and jealousy, has never delighted in mak- 
ing a parade of all his valuables, to please idle spectators 
or a giddy multitude. You must enter within the sanctum 
sanctorum, to feast your eyes on his silver, his gold, his jew- 
els, and the languishing eyes of his fair ones ; whilst, at the 
same time, his ostentation consists in being wrapped in the 
ample folds of his broad cloth cloak, which, in Mexico, is 
the receipt for a gentleman ; — a ride in his coach to the Pa- 
ceo, or the splendid show of the costly trappings of the har- 
ness of his noble steed. It is within the gate of his palace, 
that you have an opportunity of beholding the extravagance 
of his expenditures. When you are fairly within the court 
of his castle, and you have cast your eyes upwards, you 
will then be struck with the view of the lofty columns and 
broad-spanned arches, that stretch around and support the 
corridors encompassing you on every hand. It is then within 
you perceive he considers to be the elegant portion of his 
house ; and it is there that he lavishes all the ingenuity of 
his nature, in gilded gewgaws to please his fancy. I must 
say, that it did not please my taste, for the heavy architec- 
ture of the corridors, partaking of the outside appearance, 
oppressed the buoyancy of my spirits, if I could be said to 
have any, while the carving and the ornaments that I saw 
there, look too much, to me, like gaudy chains to please the 
maniac. 



gg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

The population of the city of Mexico is estimated by- 
some, to be two hundred thousand ; but it is impossible to 
take a correct census (so it is said) of the city, or even of 
the country, on account of the considerable number of lata- 
rones who inhabit the streets and nooks in the fields, having 
no homes. They do their cooking, their sleeping, and, in- 
deed, all the functions of animal existence, in the streets. 
After I had become overpowered with fatigue, in my fruit- 
less hunting for the most interesting parts of Mexico, I re- 
turned, at the hour of 4 o'clock, to the dwelling of General 
Thompson, chagrined at not having found a city which had 
surpassed all others before seen, or a street more attractive 
than that of the Holy Ghost. 

At Gen. Thompson's I much enjoyed myself with his ele- 
gant hospitality. There I had the pleasure of being intro- 
duced to some of the ministers at the court of Mexico. 
Baron Le Roulk, minister plenipotentiary from Holland, I 
found to be a most interesting and pleasant man. He made 
many interrogations of me, as to the system of the United 
States government, and more particularly of my own state of 
Virginia. The baron often expressed his satisfaction with 
many of the features of constitutional points which I cited to 
him ; but would as often exclaim, " Have the people self- 
government sufficient to carry out the great doctrines V for 
he perceived that, with much difficulty, and by many revolu- 
tions, the Mexicans, professing to be republicans, were liv- 
ing under the will of a dictator. In reply, I endeavoured 
to explain the difference that existed between the two peo- 
ple, and finally hoped the agreeable baron a residence at the 
city of Washington, as minister from his country, where, 
from the proximity of the metropolis of the Union to the 
capital of my own state, he would then have an opportunity 
of verifying all that I had related. 

It was not until after dark that I left Gen. Thompson, and 
therefore could not, until the following morning, make fur- 
ther investigations. My inquisitive curiosity had by no 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



87 



means abated, for, added to my disappointment, my hope 
of yet being gratified in beholding something consistent 
with my expectations, urged me to an early rising ; and, 
having first taken a look obliquely to the left, on the oppo- 
site side of the street, and then my breakfast, I sallied forth 
to behold, and not caring to be seen. 

My direction was towards the Plaza, which, when I had 
arrived there, I discovered to be a vacant paved square of 
ground of about four acres. The government palace, the 
former residence of the viceroys, fronts this square on the 
east ; on the south and west are buildings occupied as shops, 
having corridors extending over the side walks, resting on 
arches, supported by pillars. On the north is the cathedral, 
with its grounds covering the whole front of that side of the 
Plaza. There are one hundred and fifty places of religious 
worship in the city of Mexico, not exceeded, in capacious- 
ness and richness, by any other city in the world. 

The cathedral of Mexico is said to be the largest in Ame- 
.rica. This vast religious building has had a larger expendi- 
ture of money and labour than any other house in the city. 
Its site is upon a portion of the ground formerly occupied 
by the palace of Montezeuma, and the towering temple 
of the Aztics, erected for the worship of the Mexican 
war-god, which rose to the height of one hundred feet, 
and called the temple of Coatepantl. It may be that I 
am deficient in taste, as regards architectural proportions, 
but the front of the cathedral I could not altogether ad- 
mire. It was without a basement sufficient to set off, in 
perfection, so stupendous and grand a building ; for the want 
of this, some five or ten feet above the flat surface, much 
of the imposing sublimity of the cathedral is lost. The 
proportions of the cathedral are also much impaired by an 
extensive addition having been erected on the east side, to 
about one-half the height of the building ; while on the west, 
there is no corresponding wing, which makes the view of 
the front, when taken as a whole, appear as if the west end 



gg .TRAVELSINMEXICO. 

had been destroyed, or, otherwise, that the funds of the 
church were deficient for the purpose of completing the 
cathedral ; and that, at some future day, it was designed to 
supply the vacuum. 

The cathedral is, beyond doubt, the most attractive edi- 
fice in Mexico. The workmanship of the whole front is 
studied, and laborious, and I must confess that I have never 
witnessed so much expenditure in attempting a display of 
carvery by the chisel, the most singular figures that I ever 
beheld, which cover the whole front of this magnificent edi- 
fice. The remarkable carvings are not, to my knowledge, 
historical of any thing, and I could but look upon them 
as barbaric hieroglyphics put on to please the Indians. 
The pillars that ascend up against the wall, for the support 
of the two high cupolas of the cathedral are, in shape and 
resemblance, that of the harp, with a lion's foot at one end, 
and a serpent's head at the other ; the name of the order I 
have never heard, if it has a cognomen. 

The statues that stand in the niches are Saint Paul, Saint 
Peter, Saint James, &c. &c., not one of which are of mar- 
ble. When we take into consideration the material of which 
this costly structure was erected, being of basalt, which is 
much more impervious to the edge of the chisel than Quin- 
cy granite, I could not but think of the consumption of time 
and toil which the pride of the followers of the meek and 
lowly Jesus inflicts on mankind, to show them on earth the 
gate to heaven. On the west end of the cathedral, about 
ten feet from the ground, is let into the wall, the calendar- 
stone, or " Montezeuma's wat(ih," as denominated at the 
present day, and which has excited considerable speculation 
amongst antiquarians. 

The interior of the cathedral of the city of Mexico is 
extravagantly splendid in all its apartments ; the dome be- 
ing supported by two immense basaltic columns of the Ionic 
order. The railing and banisters around the altar and gal- 
leries are of silver. Many of the candlesticks, some of 



TRAVELSIN MEXICO. gg 

which are at least ten feet high, if not of rich gih, are ei- 
ther of silver or gold. It is said that, besides many other 
images of precious metals, it contains a Virgin Mary of 
full sized statuary, of fine gold. It has also a railing around 
the high ahar, the metal of which is composed of brass, sil- 
ver and gold, mixed ; for which, it is said, an English com- 
pany oifered a large sum of money, and to replace the rail- 
ing in full weight in pure silver. 

Mr. Officer, a young American artist, informed me 

that, having obtained permission to ascend the high altar, 
that he might examine a tablet of Murillas, of Lazarus at 
the rich man's gate ; while there, a priest also ascended, 
having in his hand the Virgin of Remedius ; and, on its be- 
ing presented to him, he was of necessity obliged to kneel 
down and kiss it. While in this act, he not only discovered 
that the saint was without a nose, but the padre also ; and, 
for that reason, it had been entrusted to his care. I am 
willing enough to believe that the padre will never have 
another nose to stick to his face ; but as for the absurdities 
told by the priests, that they have used all the efficacious 
modes of applying glue and nails to fasten a new nose 
on their saint, but that all the ingenuity of the pious and the 
skill of the mechanic have been defied, for such is the ob- 
stinacy of the saint, that she would not have a new nose ! 
As Mr. O. further stated, the dressing of the Virgin was 
covered with ' diamonds, it is said to be the most wealthy 
saint in Mexico, with the exception of one. 

This cathedral is also the tomb of Iturbide, whose re- 
mains are deposited in a box, and positioned against the 
walls of the cathedral, having on it the inscription, " Sacred 
to the memory of Iturbide." The sweet tones of all the 
bells of the churches are said to be owing to the silver in their 
composition : and never in my life have I heard so musically 
sonorous a bell as that in the great tower of the Cathedral ; 
yet I am disposed to think that this clearness of sound 
is attributable to the rarified air in which they are suspend- 



90 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

ed, than to any silver they contain. One thing I know, 
however, that it was vexatious to be always obliged to be 
listening to the practising of them. 

The convents of Saint Augustine and San Francisco, are 
the largest buildings that I have ever looked on, and they 
seemed to me, with their domes and many cupolas, to be 
cities in themselves. At the convent of San Francisco, I 
once attended divine worship, and heard a sermon preached 
in the English language, by an Irish priest. His services 
were for the benefit of foreigners who spoke English, and 
was listened to by about one hundred persons. I was in- 
formed, previous to my arrival in Mexico, that many of the 
houses had sunk some feet, resulting from the fact, that the 
city was built on marshy lake land; and I observed, that in 
consequence of the sinking of the convent of San Francisco, 
the side-walks on the western side had to be raised two feet 
to make it even with the pavement of the street. 

The Government Palace is an extensive building, cover- 
ing a whole square. Within its walls are appropriate apart- 
ments for a mint, a garrison for several regiments of sol- 
diers, chambers for the Deputies of Mexico, and offices for 
the cabinet, besides having a large portion of the; building 
apportioned for the chief magistrate of the country. The 
front of the palace, I was informed, measured about three 
hundred feet. It has a heavy prison-like aspect, being (as 
is almost invariably the case) stuccoed and whitewashed on 
the outside. It has no windows to the outer walls of the 
lower story ; but to the upper one there is a regular row of 
windows with sashes and pan,es of glass, as are customary 
in the United States; which by no means is a general thing 
in Mexico, for the climate does not require it ; and likewise 
persons could not be found who would trust themselves to 
such flimsy protection; and the stranger will find that, un- 
less the house is inhabited by Europeans or Americans, the 
windows will only have the strong shutters. A large fold- 
ing door or gateway opens in the front of the palace, just 



TRAVELS IN J.IEXICO. 



91 



in its centre. But there is an ornament, not on the outer 
wall of the building, but affixed to the gable end of the cen- 
tre of the eastern side, which I should not neglect to men- 
tion ; it is a golden or gilded sun, believed by some to be of 
pure gold. 

A General stands at the door of the reception hall, offici- 
ating as porter ; at the White House at Washington City an 
untitled Irishman and a coloured man, perform those menial 
offices. When the reception hall is entered, the visitor be- 
holds at one end of the room, a throne canopied with crim- 
son, where the Dictator sits in state over the destinies of the 
Mexican Republic. I had understood, previous to my visit 
to Mexico, that in the construction of the palace some mar- 
ble of uncommon workmanship had been imported from 
Italy, for its adornment ; but Captain Cortes of the Grena- 
diers, who politely offered his services to conduct me 
through the palace, assured me that there was not a foot of 
marble in the whole edifice. 

In the centre of the large Plaza, in the front of the palace, 
the government was erecting a monument in commemora- 
tion of the national independence of Mexico, which was to 
be surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty. The Plaza is 
much resorted to by the people of the city, and was found 
to be very convenient by the combatants during the last 
revolution. Besides the cathedral and the churches gene- 
rally, excepted, I found but two houses in the city,«*that 
impressed my view, as being different in some of their 
features from the general sameness that universally at- 
tended all others. The first was the ill-fated Iturbide 
palace, which still bears his name, having more of the ele- 
gancy of the Spanish style than any other that I had seen, 
and not having been stuccoed, the out wall was built of 
dressed stone, and but that the inelegant and unmeaning 
hieroglyphics were cut upon the stone, the palace would 
bear inspection in any city. The other alluded to, is that 
in which the office of the administration of coaches is kept. 



92 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

Its outer walls are of mosaic work, with glazed blocks of 
different colours, resembling porcelain. The new unfinished 
theatre, which is to bear the name of the hero of an hun- 
dred victorious battles, Santa Anna, is to have an entire 
classical and modern front. 

While promenading the streets of Mexico to glean some- 
thing of its fame, the ringing of the bells was a constant 
annoyance to me, and it did seem that I should never be- 
come accustomed to them. To one not having been used 
to the continued sound of the church-going bells, it could 
not otherwise than be distressing. My way, too, was im- 
peded in the streets by crowds going to and from mass, 
and absolution ; and added to the reverberation of church 
and convent bells, was the explosion of rockets from 
those places of holy worship, as if it seemed that some 
church or convent was in the act of celebrating some feast 
every day. They have an expression in Mexico which 
was difficult for me to understand, which was — gueriendo 
a dar, wishing to ring. It appears that some short time 
previous to the general ringing, some one or more smaller 
bells would commence a tolling, or irregular ringing, until 
the time should arrive for the grand uproar of all the big 
ones. 

Besides the numerous beggars to be found in every crowd, 
and under every saint, and at every corner of the street, I 
foui^ likewise beggars stationed at every door of the 
churches, who are employed by the priests to ask alms of 
the passers by, for the benefit of each peculiar institution. 
This is an every day business, and from such an example 
by the church, the indolent are encouraged to make their 
living by asking charity. I have had journeymen beggars 
solicit me to give them money for the family of Joseph, 
Jesus, and the Most Holy Virgin. Their importunities are 
couched in the most impressive language, and which is per- 
petually at their tongue's end, " By the blood of Christ, and 
the agony of the cross, give for the benefit of the holy lady 
Guadelupe." 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



93 



A person walking the streets of Mexico finds that he 
must frequently step aside to permit the water-carriers, and 
other day labourers of the class of lazarones, to pass and 
repass, or else come in contact with them, as from the in- 
clined position of their heads, they cannot see before them. 
And I hope I may not be disbelieved, by those who have 
never witnessed the feats of strength of a lazarone man, 
carrying as much weight on his back and head as almost 
any of the mules of the country, at least their burthens to 
me seemed to be equal in bulk to the heaviest articles, 
transported by such animals. The dress of this class dif- 
fers materially from that of the decent people. Their upper 
bodies are covered alone by a serapi or blanket, with a hole 
through the centre, for the head to pass through, or else it 
is worn as the North American Indians do their blankets ; 
his pants are made of leather, and do not reach below the 
Hnee ; he is without leggings of any kind, and his feet are 
shod with sandals. 



94 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER VI. 



visit to the National Museum and University. Bronze statue. Sacrificial stone. Curi- 
osities of savage antiquity. Gallery of paintings. Library room. Museum proper. 
Paintings, Portrait and armour of Cortes. Helmet of Alvarado. Giant of Jalapa. 
A miniature representation of two silver mines. Indian relics. Coneliology. Masto- 
don. Santa Anna's portrait. Former grandeur of the City of Mexico. Montezeuma's 
Managerie and Aviary. Floating gardens. Visit to Conde Peniaske's private museum. 
Philosophic apparatus. Paintings. Chinese transparencies. Carved picture. Bomb 
shell. Maquey book. Crystallization. Beautiful lady. Feast day of Guadaloupe. 
Ringing of bells and firing of rockets and cannon. Going to mass. Flags. Picture 
of the Virgin of Guadaloupe. Procession. Joseph, the Infant, the Virgin Mary. The 
multitude embracing the Infant. Origin of the Virgin Guadaloupe. Pueblo of Guada- 
loupe. Viiiage of mounds. Multitude of people at Guadaloupe. Commercial booths. 
Dealers of Monte. Gambling priests, lloman Catholics of the United States, Europe, 
and Mexico. Habits of the priests. Wealth of the Church of Mexico. 



Having had my curiosity somewhat satisfied, in my cur- 
sory ramble over the city, I felt desirous of witnessing what- 
ever might be considered scientific or displayed the remains 
of antiquity. 

I accordingly, on the 9th of December, visited in com- 
pany with Mr. Green, (a promising young American, 
and Secretary of the United States Legation at Mexico,) 
the National University, which also contains the National 
Museum. 

The University is near the Government Palace, and upon 
entering the great door way, the first object that met my 
view was the equestrian and colossal bronze statue of 
Charles IV. of Spain. Since the revolution the Mexicans, 
in their singular attachments and ideas for every thing re- 
publican, have denominated the statue the " Big Horse,'* 
and in the same spirit of patriotism, have removed the 
we ghty construction from before the palace, its original 
position, at an expense of twelve thousand dollars, within 
the court-yard, the place it now occupies in the National 
University. 

This statue is boasted to have been originally designed 



TRAVELS IN 31 EX ICO. 95 

and cast by Tolsa, a Mexican statuary ; yet with much ap- 
parent truth, it is contended that it was the w^orkmanship 
of an Italian artist; be that as it may, it beyond doubt re- 
flects much credit on the sculptor, whoever he was, and I 
have ever been impressed with the opinion, that nothing to 
be seen in Mexico can compare with it. The statue is 
said, with the pedestal upon which it is positioned, to mea- 
sure about twenty-three feet. Charles IV. is represented 
mounted on the horse, with a wreath of laurel bound around 
his brow. He is in Roman costume, with a robe flowing 
over his shoulders reaching to the horse. In his extended 
right hand is a truncheon, and a sword on his thigh. The 
horse is represented as moving forward, with his right hind 
foot treading on a quiver of arrows. The design and exe- 
cution of this colossal figure is said, by competent judges in 
such arts, to be as symmetrical and perfect as any to be 
found in any country. To me it had an imposing appear- 
ance, exciting more of interest than all the objects of the 
city together. 

Under the corridor of the same court is the Sacrificial 
Stone of Montezeuma, besides many of his gods thrown 
conspicuously together, but which are said to have belonged 
originally to the sacred temples of the heathen monarch. 

Although this stone bears the name of the Sacrificial, yet 
it cannot be the one as described by some historians, which 
had its position on the top of the great temple of Teocalli, 
for that stone is represented as having a smooth oval sur- 
face, so that when the victim was extended upon it, his 
breast was protruded, and the priest thereby was the better 
enabled to make the fatal incision, and tear the heart palpi- 
tating from the body. The stone now seen, must have been 
used in some other tem.ple than that of Teocalli, as its 
weight would have been an ineffectual barrier to its high 
elevation on that temple. The diameter of this horrid stone 
is above nine feet, and three feet through. It is sculptured 
all round with representations of demoniac Indian priests 



QQ TRAVELSINMEXICO. 

and unknown hieroglyphics, having some resemblance to 
those found in Yucatan by Mr. Stephens of New York. 
The level surface of the stone has singular figures cut upon 
it. There is a hole in the centre of about twelve inches in 
diameter and two feet deep ; there were also trenches cut 
from this centre cavity to the outer edges of the stone. 
The hole, it is said, was intended to receive the blood of 
the human victim sacrificed on it ; and the trenches served 
the purpose of conducting the superfluous gore from the 
centre, over the sides of the stone, for the additional uses of 
the priests. While casting my eyes around me, I could only 
regret to behold so many valuable curiosities of savage an- 
tiquity so indifferently preserved — being heaped together in 
piles, as if they were but the fragments of stone from a fall- 
en wall. 

From the court we ascended a flight of steps, which car- 
ried us on the corridor ; and the first room we entered, was 
a gallery of paintings. 

The portrait likenesses of this room consisted chiefly of 
presidents, politicians, generals, bishops, and priests of 
Mexico. Some of these paintings seemed to my compre- 
hension to have been finished by masters of their art, and 
all of them were hung in elegant gilded frames. I have 
been informed, that Mexico once contained paintings of the 
best artists ever known to the world, but the priests, who 
left the country after the revolution, took with them the 
larger portion. These acts resulted in causing the Mexi- 
can Congress to enact a law, prohibiting a painting of any 
kind from being taken out of the country. But that was 
locking the door after the thief had made his escape. 

From the gallery of Fine Arts, I was conducted into a 
capacious apartment called the Library room. I found in 
this the librarian, as I imagined, seated at a revolving 
wheel, deeply absorbed in reading newspapers. On our 
entering the room we requested permission to examine the 
library, which he politely granted, but without leaving his 



TRAVELSINMEXICO. grj 

seat to open the cases for our inspection, so intent was he 
in reading the news. As the case, however, had glass 
doors, we could easily read the titled labels of the books 
contained therein. The room was sufficiently large to have 
contained an hundred thousand volumes ; yet the National 
Library so called, judging by the eye, did not possess more 
than two thousand. Nevertheless, some portraits and paint- 
ings were hung around the room, which exhibited appear- 
ances of great antiquity. The books, as far as I examined, 
proved to be mostly Latin and French works, for in an 
hour's inspection I did not meet with more than some half 
dozen Spanish volumes. 

From the library room we entered the Museum proper, 
and it was a source of disappointment to find that that 
apartment likewise contained paintings which seemed as if 
they had been hung around the room more for the purpose 
of ornament, than of establishing a gallery of fine arts. 
And notwithstanding I had become fatigued by looking at 
pictures, I determined to give them an inspection, for the 
fact of their antiquated appearance. They consisted of 
paintings of the kings and queens of Spain ; the vice- 
roys, and bishops of Mexico. Amongst them was point- 
ed out to me that of Ferdinand, as also that of Isabella. 
But that which chiefly attracted my notice, was one of 
Hernando Cortes, with the high forehead, and the counte- 
nance expressive of that firmness which bore him trium- 
phantly through a conquest unrivalled in the history of the 
world. Under this portrait was the armour of Cortes which 
he wore in the heat and shock of battle, and from under 
which he so much gloried in calling upon his favourite saint 
" St. Jago," and then rushing on to the charge and the 
slaughter. The helmet of the Alvorado was also close by. 
I would suppose that there never had been but one giant in 
Mexico, from the fact that a full length likeness of one was 
hanging in the room. This giant had his birth in Jalapa, 
and measured seven feet in height. 
7 



98 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



Besides the paintings in this room, there was a miniature 
representation of two of the profitable silver mines of Mex- 
ico. They not only had a rich appearance, but were ex- 
ceedingly interesting, from the well-arranged specimens of 
the different kinds of ore as found in the mines. These ex- 
hibitions not only showed the various strata of earth, stone 
and mineral, but intended to present the exact aspect of the 
excavations under the surface ; and by an ingenious toy 
contrivance, the turning the wheel by which all the machi- 
nery used for bringing the heavy metals to the top of the 
earth would be put in motion — as also the labourers who 
were at work in the mines, with pickaxes and shovels ; 
while, at the same time, the mules with their heavy packs 
would slowly move along like things of life. 

By this happy construction, the looker-on could be saved 
the necessity and trouble of descending the shafts of the 
mines to examine the different specimens of mineralogy, 
and the modes by which such are disinterred. The mines 
intended to be represented are those of Rio del Monte and 
Friznillo. I have no doubt that if some of our enterprising 
Yankees had them, they would be sure of making fortunes 
by pedestrianizing the Union. 

The remaining curiosities in this room consisted mainly 
of Indian relics, conchology, and the helmets and armour of 
the early Spaniards, all of which were badly arranged, if 
they could be said at all to have order. Among the Indian 
curiosities were vast numbers of stones, both great and 
small in size, said to have been the gods of the Aztics. Of 
that race of people it is said, that, besides the gods worship- 
ped in their temples, every family, as well as every individ- 
ual, was possessed of gods peculiarly their own, and regar- 
ded as the instruments through which only the greater di- 
vinities should be appeased. These gods are sometimes of 
the brute order, while others are of half human and half 
brute or reptile species. There was also to be seen every 
variety of rock, knife, and Indian point, besides as much 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



99 



fashion exhibited in calumet Indian pipes, as ever v^'as seen 
in any one article. There were drinking vessels shaped like 
frogs, Mexican rabbits, birds and snakes, intended perhaps 
for Pulque purposes, cart-loads of which are found in the ex- 
cavations of the city of Mexico, and which likely were bu- 
ried by the Indians, as it is said they did their silver and 
gold, during the siege of Cortes. 

In the fourth and last room, were the skins of many ani- 
mals, birds, and snakes, stuffed in an imperfect manner, and 
not amounting to one-twentieth part the quantity of those to 
be seen at the National Institute at the city of Washington. 
And besides other exhibitions to be seen in this room, there 
were to be met with, in the cabinets of mineralogy, every va- 
riety of mineral ores as discovered in all Mexico, the precious 
metals of which, if extracted, would amount to no inconsi- 
derable sum, besides its value and richness of appearance. 
It must have been arranged by some classic Frenchman, as 
the specimens were all habited in the French style. 

After I had for some time investigated the bones of a 
Mastodon, and other fossils which lay scattered over the 
floor of the room — on raising my eyes in search of other 
curiosities, the portrait of Santa Anna met my view, 
and on looking around to discover if there were any others in 
the apartment, and finding none, I could not but be impressed 
with the vanity of his friends, or of himself, in thus so con- 
spicuously giving his portrait the entire room, instead of 
hanging it in the galleries with those of the other distin- 
guished compeers in the country's service. 

On retiring from the Museum and the University, I again 
reflected upon the former grandeur of the city of Mexico, 
when under the dominion of Montezeuma, whose name must 
ever be coeval with this great place — and contrasted in my 
own mind the flourishing condition of the barbaric arts and 
sciences in his time, with those the Mexicans of the present 
day enjoy, having the aid of the Christian religion, and the 
example of the civilized world to instruct them in the laby- 



IQQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

rinths of philosophical research, and lead them through the 
archives of learning. 

The conquerors found at the city of Mexico a menagerie 
and aviary, filled with every animal, creeping thing, insect, 
and bird known to their country. The animals, birds, and 
reptiles being confined in appropriate cages, by a suitable 
arrangement of large enclosures, were attended by persons 
appointed for that exclusive business. And what was not 
inconsistent with Indian taste, the Emperor also had a col- 
lection of living dwarfs, who were provided for in conse- 
quence of their diminutive size, peculiar physiognomy and 
singular shapes. I do not consider such an exhibition of 
dwarfs to have been more repugnant to feelings of humani- 
ty, and to public morals and decorum, than the shocking 
and mournful sights to be seen of preserved infants, in many 
a jar of the National Museum. Such appearances should 
belong alone to the cabinet of the surgeon. 

Montezeuma had also his botanic gardens, some of which 
floated on the lakes, and in them were cultivated with great 
care every variety of flower, plant, and shrub, to please the 
sight, and adorn his idols; nothing of which are to be seen at 
the present day. It is true that the old Spaniards did divert 
themselves in paying some attention to the cultivation of 
the refined ornamental arts and sciences, but all is now lost 
— for the Mexican of the present day is devoted to the art 
of resounding arms, and the desolation of his own country 
now marks his footsteps with kindred blood, and ruined civ- 
ilization. 

On the 10th instant, by invitation of Mr. Green, I accom- 
panied him to the Conde Paniaski's dwelling, to have a view 
of his private Museum, which has hardly ever escaped the 
notice of travellers in Mexico. On our arrival at the cour- 
teous Conde's, he seemed pleased to see us, and had the 
doors of his museum thrown open for our inspection. 

The first room we entered contained a valuable philoso- 
phical apparatus, which at once demonstrated that he was 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. JQJ 

learned as well as curious. He had in his collection in that 
apartment many paintings from the pencils of celebrated 
artists, together with curious and delicate ivory transparen- 
cies of exquisite workmanship, brought from China. Among 
these, that which most interested my admiration was a 
landscape view, said to have been cut with a penknife out 
of ivory. This carved picture presented a back ground of 
a forest, with a field in cultivation, and on the fore ground 
was a dwelling, garden, yards, and fruit-trees, all in the 
most perfect and exact representation. The whole picture 
was comprised in the small compass of four inches square, 
presenting the most singular piece of ingenuity that I had 
^ver beheld. He had likewise a fragment of the French 
shell that blew down the cupola of the castle of San Juan 
de Ulloa, together with many iron and lead bullets that had 
been fired upon the battle-fields of his country. 

He had also a book of fine fabric, of the maguey, upon 
which the hieroglyphic writing of the aboriginal Mexicans 
was painted. Mr. Prescott has remarked — " At the time of 
the arrival of the Spaniards, great quantities of those manu- 
scripts were treasured up in the country. Numerous per- 
sons were employed in painting, and the dexterity of their 
operations excited the astonishment of the conquerors. Un- 
fortunately, this was mingled with other feelings more un- 
worthy. The strange, unknown characters inscribed on 
them excited suspicion. They were looked on as magic 
scrolls, and were regarded in the same light as the idols and 
temples, as symbols of a pestilential superstition, which 
must be extirpated. The first archbishop of Mexico, Don 
Juan de Zummarago — a name that should be as immortal as 
that of Omar — collected those paintings from every quarter, 
especially from Tercuco, the most cultivated capitol in An- 
ahuac, and the great depository of the national archives. 
He then caused them to be piled up in a ' mountain heap' — 
as it is called by the Spanish writers themselves — in the 
market-place of Tleetelalco, and reduced them to ashes. 



102 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



His greater countryman, Archbishop Ximenes, had celebra- 
ted a similar auto-da-fe of Arabic manuscripts in Grenada, 
some twenty years before. Never before did his fanaticism 
achieve two more singlar triumphs, than by the annihilation 
of so many curious monuments of human ingenuity and 
learning." 

After having looked on many valuable and interesting cu- 
riosities in that room, we were shown into an adjoining one 
that contained his cabinet of mineralogy, which was indeed 
a rich collection. He not only had specimens of all the 
minerals in Mexico, but those of other countries in full con- 
trast. His cabinet w^as arranged in classic taste, as every 
thing about his Museum and house appeared to be. His 
collection of coins were numerous, some of them having 
the stamp of Alexander, the Great. The Conde had also in 
that room the monstrous sight of a preserved infant, with 
one body, and two well-formed and independent heads. 

As my eyes ranged around the room, a collection of bril- 
liant crystals attracted my attention, and as I became deep- 
ly engaged in beholding the splendid scene, for at the same 
time my view was dazzled by the prism, the agate, the to- 
paz, the sapphire, and the sparkling diamond, scintillating as 
it were, rays of light from their bright surfaces — when be- 
hold ! in the midst of my admiration, my attention was sud- 
denly diverted by the appearance of a young lady on the 
opposite side of the glass door near me. Slightly turning 
by the accident of the occasion, my eyes met those of the 
lovely fair one, and notwithstanding my whole soul, but the 
moment before, was enraptured with gazing on the splendid 
beauties of nature's gems; yet, I must in truth say, that the 
lovely, smiling young female who then met my view was 
infinitely more charming and more beautiful to behold, than 
all the rich and splendid diamonds of the cabinet of crys- 
talization. Indeed, from the first momentary glimpse of her, 
there was not remaining a single impression on my mind of 
any of the curiosities of the Museum. While my thoughts 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



103 



were thus bewildered, the lady, Uke an angel, glided softly 
away, and I was roused to self-possession by the voice of 
Mr. Green, and in a delighted and happy frame of mind, we 
left the Conde Paniaski's mansion. 

On the 11th December, the celebration of the feast day of 
Guadaloupe, the patron saint of Mexico, took place. The 
performances on that occasion were not intended as the 
great festival of the Virgin of Guadaloupe, but only as it 
were, a Queriendo, a wishing, as some called it, to begin a 
grand exhibition which was to come off on the 12th instant, 
at the temple erected for the worship of her shrine, three 
miles from the city. 

I was aroused from my slumber, on the morning of the 
11th, at 4 o'clock, by the never-faihng and indefatigable 
bells, together with the firing of rockets, making rapid ex- 
plosions, from all the churches in the city. It did seem to 
me that the quick volleys of ten thousand muskets could not 
have made more noise. I rose from my bed to look out, not 
knowing that the firing was in honour of a feast-day. But 
my first impressions were that a revolutionary action had 
commenced, that would make the Dictator tremble on his 
throne, by the hopeful issue of a new aspirant's attack upon 
the lion in his den — yet, by throwing wide my window I 
discovered that all was quiet and harmonious on earth, and 
above from the ramparts and towers of the celestial build- 
ings, shot the streaming fire high in the air, which showed 
that the war was only in heaven, whilst men and women 
were smiling on the scene. But at the moment of the ri- 
sing of the sun, the combat deepened — for the firing of can- 
non was opened on earth, and, for all the day, in thundering 
tones, echoed back the small-arms of the skies. 

The religious ceremonies of the day commenced by the 
inhabitants going to mass in crowds, dressed in their best 
attire for such occasions. The lazarones seemed, for the 
time, to have skulked from the streets, by the increased de- 
cency of the general public. All the houses of the rich 



104 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



had in front white flags floating from them, with their fa- 
vourite saint, the Virgin of Guadaloupe, pinned to the cen- 
tre, while the high towers and belfries of the churches had 
the red banners of the cross streaming from them. As 
evening approached, the rich and the poor, riding and walk- 
ing, all mixed in one common crowd, in the streets, to join 
the solemn procession of the occasion, which was to take 
place at four o'clock. Fire-works were erected at the cross- 
ing of the streets, while in every direction I beheld trium- 
phal arches of flowers thrown over the streets, and the 
archbishop was drawn in his coach and six, attended by ser- 
vants in crimson livery. In fine, every thing had the most 
gay and lively appearance. 

When the appointed, hour had arrived for the saints to 
make their glorious entry in public, and join the multitude, 
I saw Joseph, with an infant in his arms, mounted on 
a splendid car, drawn by men, enter from a church at the 
extremity of a street, followed by young boys, fantastically 
dressed, and holding bouquets of flowers in their hands, — 
then came the Virgin Mary, mounted on a car, similar to 
Joseph's, but borne on the shoulders of men, and having a 
golden wreath, floating over her head, — and with her gown 
covered and glittering with precious ornaments. With 
meek humility, contrasting strangely with her rich attire, 
she seemed to smile benignly on the good people around her. 
She was escorted by a party of priests, a band of music, 
and a company of soldiers ; and, as the pageant passed 
along, amidst the roar of the firing of the rockets, small- 
arms and cannon, the people uncovered themselves in pro- 
found respect to the glittering procession. 

As I followed on after the crowd, and arrived opposite 
the gate of San Francisco, I discovered there a priest 
holding in his arms the wooden child, the same which I had 
seen Joseph bear. The eager multitude around were vieing 
with one another in their embraces of the infant. In my 
own profession, in acknowledging my obedience to God and 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 105 

his Son, as known to mankind, through the means of the Old 
and New Testaments, not considering it necessary, in keep- 
ing the commandments and precepts inculcated therein, to 
declare homage or fealty to any Christian denomination, — 
the scenes of that day impressed my mind with the folly 
and superstition of mankind in their attempt to worship with 
pomp and show the Supreme Head of the universe, instead 
of giving unto him that reasonable service which he re- 
quires at the hands of his creatures. 

The fete of the 11th inst. was not to be compared to that 
which was to take place on the succeeding day, at the 
church erected in honour of the Virgin Saint of Guada- 
loups, three miles from the city. It will not be improper 
here to state the origin and history of the patron saint of 
Mexico ; and I protest, that in so doing, my object is not to 
deride, or impose upon the minds of the credulous, but to 
relate the prominent features, as often recounted to me, 
with all the semblance of truth and hearty belief, by several 
Mexicans. 

It is said that, on the 8th of December, 1531, an Indian, 
by name Juan Diego, was seated on a rock on the moun- 
tain of Tepeye. Being overpowered with fatigue, (being 
then making a long journey,) while taking his rest, the Vir- 
gin Mary appeared to him, and directed him to go to the 
city of Mexico, and say to the bishop, that she desired him 
to worship her on the spot they then occupied. The Indian 
forthwith arose and went into the city to obey the com- 
mands of the Virgin, but upon the following day returned, 
and informed Mary that he was but a poor Indian, and could 
not obtain an interview with the illustrious bishop. She 
commanded him to return, and insist upon being heard. In 
compliance, Diego returned the second time ; and, on the 
following day, said to the Virgin, that the bishop required a 
token from her to give his statement validity. Whereupon 
she ordered him to go upon the mountain and pluck some 
roses, and bring them to her. The Indian, in going there. 



IQg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

was surprised to find the roses growing on a mountain where 
there was no soil or vegetation. He presented the flowers 
to Mary, which she threw on his serape, and directed him to 
carry them to the bishop. The Indian, having presented the 
serape to the holy man, he unfolded it, and, behold, not only 
the roses were therein, but also he found a full-length por- 
trait of the Virgin Mary. The bishop could no longer dis- 
believe, and the Indian informed him that the image on the 
garment should be called the Virgin of Guadaloupe ; where- 
upon the archbishop ordered that a splendid church should 
be built on the spot, to commemorate the miracle. 

Having taken a coach, my route lay north from the city. 
A great portion of the way was on one of the two cause- 
ways, which stretch over an arm of the lake, jutting be- 
tween the city and the church. The ride was delightful, 
and I felt much refreshed by having quit the noise and bus- 
tle of the city, and at the delightful prospect of the lake, 
and the trees scattered along the margin of the causeway. 

About midway to Guadaloupe, I observed a small village 
of dirt mounds, where the inhabitants lived like burrowed 
rabbits, and, indeed, there was a chapel, built of the same 
mud and earth, having a belfry ; and, having no shape of 
bricks in the structure of the walls, these dirt hovels pre- 
sented a bold contrast with the city behind, and the wealthy 
church in front. 

When I arrived at the celebrated temple of Guadaloupe, 
it seemed to me, from the appearance of the crowd through 
which I had to pass, and the confusion which reigned there, 
as if all the world was about to congregate at the shrine of 
the Virgin. There was a vast number of padres and friars, 
who had assembled from all parts of Mexico, to worship at 
the feet of their patron saint. Canaliso, the dictator, pro 
tern., and all the members of his cabinet were there, dressed 
in complete uniform. All the diplomacy were there, dressed 
in honour of the great saint-day. The thronged and mixed 
multitude presented a most singular appearance, in contrast 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



107 



with the gaudy uniforms of the civil and military function- 
aries. The black, the grey, and the white habits of the 
clergy, with their long shovel hats; the foppish appearance 
of the arriero and the ladrone, with the broad-brimmed 
hats, with silver or gold bands, light laced jacket, large 
pants with buttons dangling down the seams, and red sash 
around the loins ; the common citizen, unable to make any 
show ; and last, though not the least in number, the Indian 
and greasy lazarone, all mixed in one common herd, formed 
an unpleasing and distressing sight. 

Besides the many shops in the row of buildings, which 
extends round the church, tjiere were many booths all 
over the Plaza, in which commodities of all kinds were of- 
fered for sale, affording to the hungry the means to satisfy. 
his appetite, and, to the pious, images of saints for their 
worship. But their business was not confined to these ; 
many of these booths were filled with dealers of monte, a 
game resembling faro — and with casters of dice. In fine, 
every thing in the way of game was oflfered under the eaves 
of the sanctuary, and the protection of the Virgin. 

Here was seen every description of character at play — 
the civilian, the soldier, the priest, and the citizen. It is not 
my interest here, to make fictitious statements of any thing 
I may have seen in my visit to Mexico ; but, on the con- 
trary, desire to please all people ; and, if any Catholic should 
take exceptions to my remarks, he cannot deny that they 
are true, for the world has proof as strong, I was going to 
say, as holy writ; — at least other testimony than mine. 
My purpose is to write a book of my travels ; and whatever 
I have seen in church or state I shall use my prerogative, 
independently, in approbating or condemning, as I may con- 
ceive just and proper. However, be it said, of the Roman 
Catholics of the United States and of Europe, that they 
have not their holy religion corrupted by Indian rites and 
shows to win the savage and uncultivated to the Christian 
faith. 



jQg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

It is now nearly four centuries since the Indians of Mex- 
ico were converted to the Christian religion, and surely it 
is high time that the church should be purified. But I not 
only stood and saw the fathers of this institution under the 
shatiow of the shrine they worshipped, betting at cards and 
other games, but I was more than once credibly informed, 
that the church itself was the holy owner of many of those 
gambling tables. 

My first desire was to enter the church, and, having suc- 
ceeded, I was impressed with the power of that rehgion 
which so extravagantly used the wealth of the world to de- 
corate itself withal. All the banisters and railings, which 
met my view, were of silver. The large chandelier, which 
hung by a gilt chain from the dome, was also, I was inform- 
ed, of the same precious metal. As I entered, the many 
candles it contained were about being lit by a man who had 
ascended by a ladder, and mounted the chandelier, walking 
with ease around it, until he had illuminated the tall tapers. 
The altar before the Serape, which contained the express 
image of the Virgin, so miraculously wrought by herself, 
was of silver, and was surrounded by a forest of gold and 
silver candlesticks. The Serape was contained in a gold 
frame, with a glass door, five or six feet in length, and, be- 
sides a multitude of other diamonds, there were nine large 
stars worked with diamonds, supposed to be worth twenty 
thousand dollars. At the foot of the image are clusters of 
diamonds. Above the serape is a solid dove of silver, sus- 
pended in the air, some three feet in length. 

The arched domes of the chapels were highly gilded and 
painted with, representations of angels flying in the clouds. 
The ceremonies were long and solemn, during which mass 
was taken. I was told that, on one of those festival occa- 
sions, a priest from old Spain was requested to deliver a 
sermon, and he refused, saying that the Pope had never re- 
cognized the miracle of Guadaloup6. The motto of the 
church is, " non fecit taliter omnia natione." The services 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. JQQ 

being long, I spent a portion of my time in examining all 
within and without. To the rear of the church, but at- 
tached to the building, is a chapel erected over a fountain, 
and with the water the worshippers not only crossed them- 
selves but washed in it, believing that its efficacy was the 
same as the pool of Siloam. Up the side of an abrupt 
mountain of rock above the church, a winding -path conduc- 
ted me to a small chapel, where also religious services were 
performed. 

During my rambles over the place, my attention was di- 
rected to an old padre who stood in one of the large doors 
of the church, and whose fingers were covered with dia- 
mond rings. My friend also pointed to his large gold shoe 
buckles, that were thickly set around with diamonds. The 
precious metal and brilliant stones bore a remarkable con- 
trast to the old clergyman's black gown and shovel hat. By 
the way, I put myself to the trouble to ascertain the diam- 
eter across the brim of one of those hats, and it was pre- 
cisely twenty-eight inches. The brim is rolled up at the 
sides, and the front and back parts present a shovel-like 
form — hence they are called shovel hats. To those who 
have a vague idea of Mexico, and the religious ceremonies 
of that people, it will appear that it was an national festival, 
and that the President, pro iem., and all of his cabinet were 
there in their elegant uniforms — consequently, when nobles 
come to worship, the priests must, for decency's sake, put on 
their fine jewels. I think I have heard it defended by Protes- 
tants, that religion should be dressed, to make it respectable 
in the eyes of the rich, and, if it should be right in them, 
ought it to be an error of the Catholic ? 

The priests in Mexico are numerous. They are to be 
seen at any time, and in every place. I observed that, day 
and night, many of them were loafing about the streets and 
bar-rooms of the city, in their long gowns, reaching from 
the chin to the heels. My having so recently left a land of 
temperance societies, it impressed me with some degree of 



]IQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

horror to behold the heralds of the Cross taking their bever- 
ages, unrestrained by public opinion, in Restaurats. This 
surprise was more especially felt, since I was aware that, 
through the instrumentality of the Catholic clergy, both in 
Europe and the United States, it was that the use of wines 
and ardent spirits were not only prohibited to that body, but 
that, by their sober example, and their eloquent denuncia- 
tions of the habitual or other use of alcohol, they had won 
the approbation of the world, and restrained their laity as 
vi^ell as themselves from the brutal practices of intemper- 
ance. To my own mind, as also in the opinion of gentle- 
men of the Roman Catholic profession, the clergy of Mex- 
ico seemed to act in many respects independent of their 
brethren of the United States and the old world, and ap- 
peared to conceive the performances of their deportment 
harmless, which indeed in other countries would shock the 
good sense of propriety of both clergy and laity. Howev- 
er, there is some degree of palliating excuse for the frailties 
of poor human nature in Mexico — for as the maxim is, that 
"money is the root of all evil," its abundance there has 
worked wonders in corrupting the habits and morals of the 
people of that country — and thus it is that, through the su- 
perstitions of the people, the reverend gentlemen had impo- 
sed upon their credulity, by impressing on their minds that 
contagions are atmospherical, and not the result of certain 
habits. I have been respectably informed, however, that 
tippling, gambling, and lewdness of habit, though they would 
appear to a stranger to be general, are not prevalent among 
all the clergy of Mexico — for perhaps there exists as much 
piety in some few of them, as in any of those of other de- 
nominations, and the Mexicans, of all other nations, are 
peculiarly subservient and constant in their own way to 
their religious rulers, and devoted to their worship. 

From the best information I could obtain, the church has 

a fee simple titled right to one-third of all the real es- 

• tate in the country of Mexico, and, as it is supposed, by 



TRAVELSIN MEXICO. jjj 

money loaned, secured upon mortgage, have a lien on an- 
other third. The revenues of the church, derived from the 
rents of houses and lands, usury on money, profits from 
monte, donations and clerical fees, are said to amount to 
many millions, (the precise sum being unknown,) if it could 
be ascertained. The granaries of the church and the priests 
husband half of the crops in the land. The government of 
Mexico can with difficulty pay the interest of its public 
debt, and support itself; and whenever an instalment is to 
be liquidated, the money is raised by forced loans. Query, 
What becomes of the revenue of Mexico ? The govern- 
ment in its extremity, in 1841, had all the landed estate of 
the church assessed, and it is said, by some of the priests 
too, that nothing but the bribery by the church of the gov- 
ernment officers, has prevented the property of the church 
from being confiscated — it must come ! Spain has set the 
example. 

But all this will not avail in relieving the people, unless 
the government is administered by clean fingers. The re- 
venue, as at present collected, would liquidate the debt of 
Mexico in two years — at least it is so believed by some, but 
it falls short of doing so, by the mismanagement of those in 
power. What, then, becomes of the people's money ? 



112 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Hetum to the Citj- of Mexico. The Theatre. Four Theatres and one Plaza de los Tor- 
ros. Audience at tlie Ntiave de Teatro. Tlie ladies. The rlaza de los Torros. Audi- 
ence. Drawing of a Lottery and Bull-fight. Cemetery of Santa Paula. English have 
the right of burial. The Cemetery. The Cliapel. Garden. Flowers. Vegetables. 
The Portal Way. Orange and Lemon trees. Rows of boxes. Coffins shoved into 
niches. Gilt Frames. Ornamental Works. Lamps. Mound of human bones. The 
grave-diggers. Monument to Santa Anna's leg. Keturn from Santa Paula. The'youth 
John Hill. The College of Mines. Arrangement of the rooms of the College. The 
Cabinet of Minerals. Models of Machinery. The Observatory. The Observatory pro- 
per. Baron Humboldt. Splendid View. Chapel. Politeness of John Hill. Gaming 
room. Gambling. Influence of Money. Public opinion. Whitewashing the houses. 
Feats of daring of the Mexicans. 

Having become oppressed by the fatigues of the day at 
Guadaloupe, I again took a coach for the city of Mexico. 
Notwithstanding my desire for repose, the temptation of the 
Nuave de Teatro was not to be resisted. It was that night to 
be attended by the fashionables of the city, and the diploma- 
tists with their families. I therefore, in company with some 
American acquaintances, set out for the theatre. 

There are four theatres in the city of Mexico, and one 
Plaza de los Torros. From what I could learn, the Teatro 
de Principal, besides the one above named, was much at- 
tended by the polite and respectable classes of society. 
However, a new theatre is about being completed, to bear 
the distinguished name of Teatro de Santa Anna, which, 
when finished, is expected to carry the world of Mexico 
before it. 

On arriving at the Nuave de Teatro, I felt gratified at its 
ample and pleasing construction. Its singularity from the 
theatres of the United States were scarcely visible, and in 
but one respect worthy of remark. This was, that the seats 
of both boxes and pit had well stuffed cushions and backs to 
them, which is a comfort not to be found in most of the 
theatres of the Union. Bills of the night's performan# 
*were, as usual, handed to the audience, accompanied with 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jio 

a long and flaming printed controversy between the Span- 
ish and Mexican architects, who in turns had been engaged 
in the erection of the Santa Anna de Teatro. 

But that which chiefly interested me, and indeed, as I was 
unacquainted with the Spanish language, the grand in- 
ducement for me to visit the theatre, was to witness the as- 
sembled beauty of the occasion. My seat was secured in 
the centre of the pit, and in Mexico it is a choice place with 
many of the ladies, some of whom I had the happiness to 
see had taken their places near me. As I had desired, 
my arrival at the theatre was rather early, and by that 
means I had the better opportunity of observing the play- 
going folks as they came in. All having been seated, I ven- 
tured to raise my eyes from the many charms around me. 
In the boxes to the left were to be seen some of the Minis- 
ters and Consuls from European kingdoms, whose places 
were graced by the welcome sight of many soft blue eyes, 
and fair complexions. But principally to the right were to 
be beheld the languishing and melting dark eyes, with long 
eye-lashes, of the delicate Spanish brunette complexions, in 
rows sufficient to take away the senses of any man — the 
ex-Marchionesses and rich heiresses of Mexico — and as 
they gracefully waved and^ flourished their beautiful fans 
from pit to box, the diamonds on their small fingers were 
not half so bewitching as their own personal lovehness. I 
thus discovered from the conversation of compliments by 
the fan, I had not only to learn the Spanish tongue, but the 
mystic language of the fan — for the ladies of Mexico are 
quite Masonic, and with all my intercourse with the people 
of that country I found that it was as necessary to under- 
stand the meaning of their gestures, as of their words, many 
of which are very significant. The play seemed to go off" 
with the knowing ones very well — the name of it I do not 
remember. The story of the piece, I was informed, was 
tji^ history of two lovers of the same belle, one of whom 
sne coquetted with, the other she loved and married. A 
8 



114 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



dance and a few songs wound up the entertainments of the 
evening. 

On the following day, it being Sunday, I took occasion to 
visit the Plaza de los Torres, as that would be the only op- 
portunity I would have of witnessing a bull-fight in Mexico; 
and besides, I wish it understood, those exhibitions always 
and only happen on that day. 

The Plaza de los Torres is of circular form, and capable 
of holding, as I was informed, ten thousand persons ; but on 
the occasion of my visit, it did not contain half that num- 
ber. Of such antiquity has the practice of bull-fighting 
been among this people, that owing to their aversion to 
discontinue old habits and the innovation of improvements, 
it is not surprising that a large portion of the audience I 
beheld at the Plaza de los Torres, was composed of the 
female sex — of what caste they were I cannot depose. 

The evening's entertainment commenced with the draw- 
ing of a lottery, which was conducted on a similar plan to 
the lotteries in the United States, — placing the blanks and 
prizes in one wheel and the tickets in another. As the 
prizes were drawn, the judge who presided over the wheels 
of Fortune, would, with chalk, mark the lucky number on 
the back of the clown, who also having written the figures 
on a board in his hand, would then run around the circus 
with many grimaces, reminding me of the fool with his 
prize, as pictured on the bills and signs of lottery offices in 
the Union. The prizes were all drawn, as I was informed, 
by the judges and the bull-fighters, the highest of which did 
not exceed two doubloons. 

The ring having been cleared, expectation was visibly 
anxious on all, and they were not long kept in suspense. A 
noble looking bull came bounding into the avenue, showing 
every evidence of his good pluck, and so undaunted did he 
appear to meet the consequences, whatever they might prove 
to be on the occasion, that my feelings were enlisted in Jjjfe 
favour^ and had the action been of that character, which is 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



115 



generally supposed by those who have never witnessed a 
scene of the kind, I should unconsciously have shouted, 
Hurra for the bull ! thinking that he would have had some 
equal chance in the combat. But not so: six stout Spaniards 
and Mexicans entered the lists, well mounted on horseback, 
armed with long spears. With such odds and formidable 
weapons, a single thrust of which could have terminated 
the Hfe of the poor animal at any moment, a cold chill M'as 
thrown over the whole affair, for it really appeared to be 
nothing else than murder a pre'pense. 

All the interest which my imagination had enkindled of 
deeds of chivalry, was subdued, and I could only look on 
the whole spectacle as cruel and brutal slaughter, — cruel, 
because the bull was by piece-meal tortured into an agony 
of pain, without having had any chance for his defence. I 
witnessed the death of several brave bulls. At length a 
poor horse, without a rider, was placed in the arena ex- 
pressly to be killed by a bull, which having been done by 
the infuriated animal goring him in the side, and the" horse 
unable to niove out of the way, the matadors turned the ani- 
mal, which lay on his wounded side, over, thus exhibiting 
the gushing gore of the agonized creature, which, when 
seen, was greeted with loud shouts from the applauding 
audience of hravo torro ! bravo cavello I — bravo bull ! bravo 
horse ! I turned from the bloody and heartless scene with 
contempt and loathing disgust. 

Having already seen much of the city, with mingled 
pleasure, admiration, and disappointment, I still felt desirous 
of gratifying my curiosity by further investigations of this 
renowned place. Mr. Green, to whom I felt indebted for 
his many attentions, accompanied me, on the 15th inst., to 
the cemetery of Santa Paula, upon the suburbs of the west 
side of the city. 

By the way, the British government stipulated in an arti- 
^k of their last treaty with Mexico, that the English citi- 
zens of the Republic should have the rights of burial within 



jjg TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 

the country, which article of importance was neglected on 
the part of the United States in their treaty. However, on 
account of the many grievances suffered by Americans on 
the score of matrimony, the United States government has 
granted to her consuls in that country the power of per- 
forming marriage ceremonies, a prerogative which had es- 
caped the treaty making power of Great Britain. 

But to return. Having arrived at the last sad home of 
all the living, I discovered that the cemetery contained 
about eight acres of land, and was enclosed by a wall of 
sun-burnt brick, about fifteen feet high. The entrance to 
this burying ground is by a large gate of handsome mason- 
ry, which is on the east side. Upon entering I perceived 
that, in the centre of the cemetery, a chapel was erected, in 
which the last funeral ceremonies were performed over the 
dead. A broad avenue leading from the gate, carried me 
immediately to the door of this chapel. The avenue is 
lined on both sides with every kind of flower and shrub, and 
indeed upon the left hand, between the entrance and the 
chapel, there is a flower and vegetable garden in a high and 
lovely state of cultivation. Upon taking a stroll through 
this garden, I saw, much to my astonishment, the kail veg- 
etable growing as high as ten feet, and having a stalk three 
inches in diameter. Cabbages were also large, being from 
three to four feet in height. On inquiring of an American 
gentleman who had been residing for ten years in Mexico, 
if the seeds of those vegetables were the same as those in 
the United States, — he replied in the afiirraative, and attri- 
buted their mammoth growth to the cHmate, and the rich- 
ness of the soil. Although with pleasure I beheld the luxu- 
riant growth of the vegetables and flowers in that garden, 
yet it would have been with much regret that I should, 
knowingly, have eaten any thing growing on such a spot, — 
cultivated as they are with the dust of the dead. 

Having retraced my steps to the entrance of the great e^ 
tern gate, my first direction was to the right hand, under the 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



117 



roof or portal way that extended over a broad thoroughfare. 
Upon the left hand of the walk was a continued row of 
painted boxes, having the coat of arms on their sides, of 
dead men's bones crossed, in which were growing, perpe- 
tually, the green orange and lemon trees. The keeper of 
the cemetery lives adjoining its walls, and has servants con- 
tinually watering and cultivating the flowers and shrubbery 
in the boxes. 

On the right hand of this portal way are situated the 
niches, where the wealthy dead are deposited, and the ar- 
rangement is a most happy one. The first basement (upon 
which the apartments rest) is three feet high. There are 
but three rows of niches extending along the sides of the 
outer walls, one above the other. After the coffin contain- 
ing the corpse is shoved into the apartment selected for it, 
(in which there seemed in fact to be no choice, from the 
irregularity in which they were placed,) the mouth of the 
niche is then closed, and tightly built up with bricks and 
niortar. On the face of the closed receptacle, upon marble, 
or painted and ornamented glass, enclosed in handsome, and 
sometimes costly gilt frames, is recorded, in golden letters, 
the name, birth, and death of the individual interred within. 

These show-glasses, or marble slabs, generally have epi- 
taphs, with appropriate engravings or paintings, in good 
taste. And, consistent with Catholic usages, some of these 
burial-places have lamps with tapers burning in them, either 
by the side or over the head of the deceased friend or rela- 
tive. Others are fantastically decorated, agreeably to the 
age or sex of the departed one, with flowers or ribands, 
demonstrative of the afleetion of the living for the dead, and 
indicative of the felicitous condition of the weary who are 
at rest. Some of those ornaments of artificial work are of 
great neatness and elegance. 

A berth in one of those niches can only be obtained at 

fe price of twenty dollars, for the term of five years, 
owever, the rich sometimes take a lease for a longer time, 



118 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



or perhaps for ever. After the time for which the apartment 
has been rented has expired, the place is then re-opened, 
and the coffin containing the remains of the deceased is 
disinterred, and the remnants of mortahty it contains are 
taken from their confinement and thrown upon a large heap 
of other bones in one common pile. The coffin then, mise- 
rahile dictu, is split into fragments, and, with other fuel, 
promiscuously mixed together, is heaped in one mound 
of as many human bones as the want of lime may require. 
The pile is then burned ; and thus I perceived, with painful 
feelings, and many melancholy reflections, that, ultimately, 
whether rich or poor, the ashes of the dead are made ce- 
ment of for the erection of other clay tenements for the 
daily dying. 

I observed, in one corner of the grave-yard, a vast mound 
of human skeletons, which were not disposed of, as high as 
the wail, and at least twenty feet in diameter at the bottom* 
This pile of dead men's bones reminded me of the historical 
account, as given by the conquerors, who found in the Az- 
tic city of Mexico, a Golgothic pyramid, containing one 
hundred and thirty-six thousand human sculls. 

Upon the ornamented face of one of the niches I read the 
name of a Spanish poet, Don Antonio Hessesa, a native of 
Cuba, who had been banished from Havana in consequence 
of his liberal sentiments. On another, that of the heroic 
Joan of Arc, of Mexico, Donna Maria Vicario de Quitana, 
who preferred to leave her convent and join the standard of 
her country, under which she performed many feats of va- 
lour. She died on the 21st August, 1842. 

The grave-diggers are continually employed in excava- 
ting graves within the common arena, whether they have or 
have not subjects for their occupancy, so that they may be 
ready for some one or more departed fellow-mortals. In- 
deed it is but little trouble in that cemetery, to shovel up the 
black and greasy mould to make a grave, which is onta 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. HQ 

three feet deep, and which is filled up with water as soon as 
dug, till it shall be provided with a tenant of human clay. 

But what diverted my respect from the consecrated place 
in a considerable manner, and almost annihilated the effect 
of the useful lessons which the cemetery had impressed upon 
my mind, of human life and its end, was the beholding the 
pride and pageantry of a monument, surmounted with the 
arms and the fiag of Mexico floating from its corners, over 
the mortal remains of the left leg of the immortal Dictator, 
Santa Anna. The hero must excuse me, for since his leg 
has become public property, it cannot escape comment, and 
that too wlW be made, with blame or praise, as freely as his 
own deeds, just as his person will be eulogized after he him- 
self shall have descended to the tomb. It was a bold stretch 
of your leg. General, that you made of it from Vera Cruz 
to the city of Mexico. 

Santa Anna having become disgraced in the eyes of his 
countrymen, and of the world, on account of his Texian 
campaign, had retired to his farm of Mango de Clavo, to 
spend the remnant of his days in mortification. But the 
good fortune of the French invasion, once more put the 
warrior into his saddle, at the head of the Mexican army, 
in the field before Vera Cruz. In a gallant charge made 
upon the enemy, he gloriously retrieved his character as a 
brave man, but at the expense of losing his left leg below 
the knee, by a cannister shot. The wily General at once 
determined to hobble in some way to the climax of prefer- 
ment, on the dismembered limb. By a master stroke of 
genius he, knowing how to please his countrymen and gain 
power, sent his fallen leg to his fellow citizens in the city 
of Mexico, accompanied by an eloquent letter, breathing 
patriotism. The stratagem succeeded, for the shouts 
and rejoicings of this deluded people as they in triumph 
thronged in procession through the streets, proclaimed an ill 
opien to the good Bustamente, warning him of the end of 



J2Q TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

his administration, and sounding the funeral knell of liberty, 
and peace at home. 

The enthusiasm of the Mexicans was such, that they had 
hardly finished the inglorious monument, before the usurper, 
at the head of his army, had made himself master of the gov- 
ernment and become the Dictator of the people. 

One of the flag-staffs of the monument was broken down, 
perhaps by some one of his countrymen more daring than 
the rest, to retrieve the honour of his country's flag, and 
show his opposition to the highest authority upon earth. 

It would have been believed that the critics of the civ- 
ilized world had debarred any people, not excepting the 
Mexicans, from displaying in future the ostentation as ex- 
hibited upon the field of Waterloo, in erecting an obelisk 
over the fallen limb of the Marquis of Anglesea, an ac- 
knowledged soldier, and a high-minded warrior. It is true 
that while Arnold the traitor was in London, he inquired of 
an American — what the people of the United States would 
do with him, if he should return to his home ? The Ame- 
rican replied, that the leg in which he had received an hon- 
ourable wound, in the cause of liberty and independence, 
would be cut from his body and buried with all military 
honours ; but that his body would be hung between heaven 
and earth, as a traitor to his country. 

True it is, that Santa Anna deserves the gratitude of his 
countrymen for the loss of his blood and the sacrifice of his 
limb, in defence of Mexico ; yet it must be hoped that he 
never may meet the fate of Arnold had he returned to the 
United States. It is related of the Mexican hero, that a 
boot and shoe-maker of the capital manufactured a wooden 
leg, upon which he was enabled to have a good substitute 
for the departed and monumental limb ; to reward him for 
which, the Dictator commissioned him a Colonel of a regi- 
ment, but with the express understanding that the boot-ma- 
ker should manufacture his boots and legs as long as he 
lived. • 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J21 

On my return from Santa Paula, I was much pleased with 
the opportunity that presented itself of visiting the College 
of Mines. Upon our arrival at the building, we found it to 
be of large dimensions, and partaking more of the appear- 
ance of a modern edifice than any other in the city which 
I had seen. Here we fortunately met with the Texian 
youth, Mr. John Hill. 

This interesting youth, born of American parents, was 
the youngest of two other brothers, who were taken prison- 
ers at the assault of Mier, and brought to the city of Mexi- 
co. Young as he was he ha^ the bravery, at the early age 
of twelve years, to fight so desperately at the side of his 
father, as, to the knowledge of others, to kill fourteen of the 
enemy — and, even after his father had surrendered, the in- 
trepid boy maintained the conflict until his gun was forcibly 
taken from him. 

Upon the arrival of the prisoners at the seat of govern- 
ment, in consequence of the tender years of John, and the 
admiration the Mexicans had for so brave a boy, he was 
granted the freedom of going at random in the city, and 
not kept in strict confinement with his father and brothers. 
Having thus possession of his liberty, he made application 
to Gen. Thompson, requesting him to appear in behalf of 
his imprisoned relatives, in the presence of the Dictator. 
The General, pleased with the manly youth, advised him to 
make his petition himself, in person, to the supreme author- 
ity, for the liberty of his father and brothers. Through his 
agency an interview was obtained for this purpose, with 
Santa Anna, and Master John proving to have a sufficiency 
of the Spanish language to plead his own cause, he did so 
with so much smartness, that the Dictator not only consent- 
ed to set his father and brothers at liberty, but informed the 
hero and young solicitor that he would adopt him as his 
own son, give him an education in the best schools of the 
Republic, and when this was completed he should have his 
choice of a profession. 



222 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

Young Hill consented to the kind and liberal offer of San- 
ta Anna, and his father having received his liberty, gave his 
approbation to the agreement of his son with the kind Dic- 
tator. Thus the heroic little boy found in the greatest ene- 
my of Texas, the adopted country of his father, his best 
friend, and one to whom he could feel grateful all his days. 
He was, at the time I saw him, a student in the College of 
Mines, the principal institution of learning in the Republic. 

Mr. Hill was glad to meet with us, being Americans, and 
promptly proffered his services to show us the College. He 
made application to his guardian. General Tornel, Minister 
of War and of the Navy, a professor in the Institution also, 
for the keys, (as it being then vacation time, the apartments 
were locked,) which he obtained, and I could not but re- 
mark the pleasure the young man took in showing us every 
thing worthy of notice. It was with pain to us, and some 
confusion to himself, as he was conducting us from 
room to room, it was observable that he was forgetting his 
native tongue, by being often very much in want of English 
words to express himself. On such occasions, he would 
supply the deficiency by the use of Spanish, and individuals 
have assured me, that whenever the young acquire a new 
language in a foreign country, they will invariably lose their 
own native one. 

After he had conducted us through the different rooms of 
the institution, all of which were to be admired, although 
upon a different arrangement from the manner in which 
Colleges are usually conducted in the United States, as each 
class had to attend its particular professor in their several 
separate apartments, there to study their recitations, and 
receive instruction from him in person; this plan pre- 
vented the student from idling his time away in his own 
room. 

He showed us into the room containing the cabinet of 
minerals. The collection was more numerous than any I 
had before seen, and would have been a rich treat, for any 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 123 

geologist to have examined — for there were varieties of spe- 
cimens of all the mineral kingdom, but more abundantly of 
silver and gold. This apartment also contained many mo- 
dels of machinery, as used in the mines of Mexico. 

He likevi^ise conducted us up to the Observatory. In the 
first apartment of this there is a spacious room, containing 
two large telescopes, besides a variety of other astronomi- 
cal instruments for observations. From that room we as- 
cended up to the Observatory proper, and it was with a de- 
gree of pleasure and pride that my footsteps were planted 
upon the same platform where Baron Humboldt stood, when 
taking his astronomical observations of Mexico. Like him 
I comprehended in the same view the two high volcanic 
peaks of Popocatepetl and Irtacuhuatl, lifting their gray 
heads to heaven ; while the distant Orizava, mantled with 
snow, and resplendent with a halo of light crowning its 
lofty summit was seen, and then the nearer prospect of por- 
phyritic rock mountains, stretching their natural defences 
around the lovely plain of Mexico : while in perspective 
the distant lakes stretched their arms like seas, as the havens 
of Montezeuma's city. The temple of Guadaloupe looked 
like a splendid monument at the foot of the mountain, and 
the puebla of Tacaba appeared to be only the country re- 
sidence of a prince. The broad city of Mexico was spread 
at my feet. The golden r-un of the National Palace dazzled 
before my eyes, as also the bright porcelain domes of the 
churches. I had then, for the first time, an opportunity of 
beholding distinctly the flower-gardens upon the flat roofs 
of the houses, the sight of which was a lovely one for the 
admirers of both vine and blossom. While standing upon 
this most elevated place, above all the other edifices, I was 
reminded of Cortes, when he was taken by the hand, and led 
by Montczcuma to the top of the temple of Teocalli, where 
was pointed out to the conqueror the locations of the place, 
and, in the language of Mr. Prescott, " below them lay the 
city, spread out like a map, with its streets and canals inter- 



jg4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

secting each other at right angles, its terraced roofs bloom- 
ing like so many parterres of flowers. Every place seemed 
alive with business and bustle — canoes were glancing up and 
down the canals — the streets were crowded with people, in 
their gay and picturesque costumes — while from the mar- 
ket-place, which they had so lately left, a confused hum of 
many sounds and voices rose up in the air." 

Our young friend conducted us down from the Observa- 
tory, and I was pained to perceive, as he was unlocking the 
door of the chapel, that he had forgotten the English terms 
by which such places are denominated. With a blush, he 
said that he was about to show us the room where the stu- 
dents knelt ; and although he felt with some confusion that 
he was losing his native tongue, yet he had not forgotten 
his manners. It was a pleasing sight to behold in a youth 
so tender in years, as he opened the door of the chapel, 
with reverence and respect for the holy place, take off his 
hat, before entering the consecrated prayer-room. He seem- 
ed to take a pleasure in informing us where the students 
knelt, and described the watchfulness of the old chaplain 
that they should perform their devotions with decorum. 

From the chapel we were shown into another part of the 
building, which contained a biUiard-table, dominoes, chess, 
backgammon and draught-boards. This room is devoted to 
the recreation and amusement of the students, during vaca- 
tion hours. And, when we take into consideration the ha- 
bits of the Mexicans, and the location of the College, I 
could not discover the impropriety of the apartment, know- 
ing, as I do, that it is a part of the accomphshment of a 
Spanish gentleman to be skilled in the art of these games. 
Besides it was obvious that it was better for the student 
thus innocently to spend his time, in a mental and bodily 
exercise, instead of loitering about the streets, perhaps in 
the dissipation of a large and populous city. 

If not permitted to leave the college walls during inter- 
vals, he surely should have some agreeable mode to while 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J25 

away the allotted moments for recreation. Gambling is 
prohibited by the express regulations of the institution, and 
thus the youth is taught the scientific usefulness of those 
games, at the same time he learns to despise the acquisition 
of gain by them. It should be remembered that, in those 
sunny regions, the polished Spanish gentleman prefers rath- 
er to Indulge himself in the moderate exercise of a game of 
billiards, or else to seat himself in one of his rooms with 
marble floors, than to fatigue himself under the burning sun 
of that climate. I do not pretend to defend the gaming 
room of this college^ upon the system of morals and reli- 
gion of the Protestant creeds of faith — for while the re- 
formers are mortified at not correcting that, and other evils 
of wealthy society, it should be remembered that in Mexi- 
co the vice of gambling is tolerated by the church. Hence 
it is that what suits some people is very improper in others 
— for, as already remarked, as it regards the habits of the 
Mexicans, it would appear that a knowledge of the science 
of games is an accomplishment, very important; as there is 
in every public, as well as in most of the houses of the 
wealthy, a billiard and gaming-room, which is always 
crowded, and not to play is to render yourself unfit for polite 
society. 

Thus it is perceived that, in consequence of the indolent 
habits of the Mexicans, growing out of the abundance of 
nature, and their few wants, together with the warmth of 
their climate, they have necessarily been taught to amuse 
themselves, while they thereby escape the heat of the sun. 
And while, in a cold climate, athletic exercises in the open 
air would be more improving to bodily health and strength, 
and at the same time less demoralizing, the prevalence of 
gambling and playing at games is predominant in the affec- 
tions of the people of Mexico, in a degree inimical to the 
individual prosperity of their species. 

I was informed that Santa Anna was in the habit of giv- 
ing feasts expressly for the dissolute. But every thing the 



|2g TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

Dictator does, although it may be law, is not morality or 
religion. The practice of gambling in Mexico is so respec- 
table, that he who is able to estabhsh himself in its pursuit, 
by keeping a monte-bank, rather ascends than declines in 
public estimation. This has its origin in the fact that the 
prosperity, or presumed wealth of an individual, stamps his 
caste in society, no matter how his riches are obtained, 
whether by fair or foul means, yet he is privileged accord- 
ing to the amount of his store. And such must always be 
the case, where, in the state of social compact, in any com- 
munity, merited virtues and humble honesty, though poor, 
are disregarded, and which when beheld by those who 
should be the protectors of morals and good order, who in- 
stead of fostering, rather cast the chilling blast of silent ne- 
glect over them, thus affording a poor encouragement to 
virtuous deeds. Public opinion, in some instances, in every 
country, has done some good ; but, as it regards the " al- 
mighty dollar," it has most egregiously sinned against itself 
by rather corrupting than improving the moral condition of 
society. 

There are two colleges in the city of Mexico, and one 
university. If there were more I did not learn their names 
or their locations. 

By a decree of the government, the houses of the city are 
all to be painted or white-washed on the outside, once in 
every twelve months. This operation was being performed 
while I was in the place, and I could not help observing, on 
my return from the College of Mines to the Gran Sociadad, 
the marked difference, in the improvement which it made 
in the appearance of the houses. The city, had on my first 
arrival, a dirty and dull aspect — but no sooner had the pain- 
ter and white-washer began to flourish their brushes, than 
the capital, like a young girl dressed for a ball, put on a 
more cheerful and gay appearance. I was often astonished 
at the feats of agility and strength, as also of daring, which 
the Mexicans had in ascending and descending the high 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



127 



walls of their buildings, by the aid of a petre, a rope made 
of the maguey plant. 

On one occasion, I saw a man who had been engaged in 
painting the walls of a convent, ascend a single rope, hand 
over hand, about fifty feet. When he had reached the cor- 
nice of the upper portico, another Mexican who was stand- 
ing awaiting his arrival, with one hand hold of the bannis- 
ters, reached down, and with the other grasped the man on 
the rope under the arms, and hfted him with ease on to the 
cornice of the portico. Crowds of people would stop to 
witness those feats, and oftentimes the air would be rent 
with shouts, when some exploit more adventurous than 
others was performed. The longest ladders cannot reach 
half way to the top of many of the buildings, and the pain- 
ters are often seen suspended at the end of ropes, in baskets 
made for the purpose, and let down by this means over the 
top of the walls. They occasionally fall and lose their lives, 
as was the case, in one instance, from a house opposite my 
lodgings. 

In passing through a street of the city, I observed a win- 
dow filled with engravings. I paused for a moment to examine 
them, and to my surprise discovered that they were unfilled 
bank bills; and, upon minuter inspection, perceived that 
notes of the principal banks of most of the States of the 
Union, were thus exhibited to public view in the window of 
a Mexican engraver — the Brandon notes not excepted. 
Bankers should look to it, lest their vaults may be filled with 
paper instead of specie from Mexico. 



J28 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Ramble in the Alemade. Circles, fountains and statues. Names of Hidalgo and Iturbide. 
The carriages, walUs and crowds of ladies with their fans. The Pasio. Fountains of 
■waten Statues of the Azetic gods. Carriages passing up and down. The Cavaliers. 
The management and trappings of the horses. A walk without the walls of the city. 
Beautiful country scenes. Christmas-day in Mexico. Grand mass celebrated at the 
cathedral. Crowds of people in the Plaza. Merchandise of the hucksters. Confused 
scene. Brokers. Night. Pine torches. Intoxication by drinking pulque. Narrow 
e-scape. The cathedral crowded. Grand mass. Raising of the Holy Ghost. Splendid 
view of the richness of the cathedral. Reflections. The services of the cathedral last 
all night. Mexican ladies. Premature debility. Paris fashions. The social habits of 
the ladies. Courtship by letters. Gentlemen in disguise. Ostentation at the theatre 
and pasio. An English lady. Rebozoes. Los ire. Festivities of Christmas-day. 
The dictator, pro tem., and suite. Yankee driver. The big show. Plaza de los Tor- 
ros. Human affaii's. News of a British fleet. Mr. Doil, the British charge de affaires. 
Suspended relations of the two powers. False alarm. British jack on the plaza. 

My morning's excursion having been made to Santa 
Paula, I determined that my evening's enjoyment should be 
devoted to a ramble over the alemade, a promenade or 
park, and along the pasio, a ride, of the city of Mexico. 

These places are the morning's and evening's resorts for 
the recreation of all the wealthy; and here are to be seen 
the pride and fashion of the city, whether native or foreign. 

The alemade is within the precincts of the city, al- 
though on its margin. It is enclosed by a wall, and con- 
tains about twelve acres of land. Within, it is thickly 
grown with elm and other trees. Between the wood and 
the wall around it is a carriage-way, and rows of seats for 
pedestrians, from corner to corner. The whole is divided 
into well-flagged walks, and, at suitable distances, are large 
circles, having fountains of water spouting high in the air. 
In the centre is the largest of those circles, having a statue 
of the Goddess of Liberty, in gold gilt, mounted on a pe- 
destal, with two gilded lions crouching at her feet, while 
spouts of water are issuing from their mouths. On the sides 
of the pedestal hang two flags, on which appear, separately, 
the names of Hidalgo, who gave birth to the Mexican revo- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J29 

lution, (Sept. 16, 1810,) and of Iturbide. Thus, in singular 
contrast, are exposed from the statue of the goddess, the 
name of the first revolutionary and republican patriot of 
Mexico, and that of its emperor. 

Soon after my arrival at the alemade, the carriage-way 
was thronged with vehicles, mostly having ladies seated in 
them. Notwithstanding their loveliness was attractive, and 
the twirling of the fans was ominous of good tidings to a 
lover, or of compliment to an acquaintance ; yet it could 
not but appear awkward, if not unnatural, to behold a young 
lady take from her bag a flint and steel, and, by the friction 
of a blow or two, ignite a piece of spunk, and, having 
lighted her cigarrito, (segar,) pufF volumes of smoke from 
her nostrils and from between her beautiful lips. The car- 
riages, after passing round the alemade a few times, would 
drive out of the southern gateway, and continue their jour- 
ney to the pasio. Crowds of ladies and gentlemen filled 
the walks and the seats of the circles of the alemade ; and 
I was informed that, on such occasions, letters of love af- 
fairs were freely exchanged between the sexes. 

Being satisfied with my view of the rural and delightful 
alemade, I followed the direction of the carriages to the 
pasio. This is on the road to the pueblo of Tacaba. The 
entrance to it is by a gate-way, having in its centre a tall 
fountain spouting high the water. It is surmounted with a 
statue, resembling more the description of the Aztec war- 
god than that of any other image. There are several other 
fountains to cool the evening breeze. 

The pasio is about one mile in length, and the coaches, 
after passing up and down the ways a few times, would halt 
at one side, while others, which had just arrived, would 
drive backwards and forwards before them as if in review. 
By this arrangement any one individual would have an op- 
portunity of beholding all other visiters, who had made it 
their business to see and be seen. It was amusing to be- 
hold the cavaliers, mounted, with all the paraphernalia of 
9 



230 TRAVELSIN MEXICO. 

the costly trappings of their animals, with whip and Spanish 
spurs, galloping up and down the pasio, as if they were try- 
ing the speed of their horses, or escaping from theladrones; 
while others, more desirous of attracting attention, would, 
by a pressure on the rein of their bridles, cause their horses 
to raise their feet high and quick, as if dancing to the tune 
of Nancy Dawson ; and then, when a fair eye is caught, 
make the animal plunge as if he had a ten-foot wall to leap. 

My walk to the alemade and pasio afforded me, not only 
much satisfaction at beholding the customs of the people of 
Mexico, but I also enjoyed a degree of pleasure from hav- 
ing been relieved from the heat and confinement of the city. 
To go thus outside the walls, and breathe the pure country 
air, with an animated and invigorated system, makes the 
imagination glow with delight. Such is the loveliness of 
the landscape scenery of lake, plain and mountain ; while 
the pueblo of Tacaba, at a distance, seems like a city on 
a hill ; and the royal retreat of Chapultepec, on Chapults- 
puc monte, Grasshopper's hill, is beheld through the lofty 
cypresses of centuries in growth, seated on the side of a 
mountain, looking like a palace of fairy enchantment. Such 
a prospect makes the soul swell with emotion, and with a 
buoyancy of spirit ; the scenes of nature are endeared, and 
existence rendered of more value to the possessor. 

As the evening was drawing to a close I was admonish- 
ed, on my way to the pasio, by a murdered corpse, which 
was exposed, for the recognition of friends, at the celebrated 
prison of the Acordada, to return to the city. 

My Christmas-day was spent in the city of Mexico, and, 
during all the day of the twenty-fourth, my ears were con- 
stantly saluted by the qiierieud a dar, or the wishing to 
ring of the bells, to inform the good people, that the great 
mass was that night to be celebrated at the cathedral. On 
the evening of that day I took a walk to the plaza, to wit- 
ness the gathering of the people at that place. Great crowds 
had assembled, from distances in the country, of men, wo- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J32 

men and children, who had spread upon the pavements their 
fruits, and goods of all kinds, intending to reside upon the 
spot during all the Christmas holidays. Under the corri- 
dors of the private buildings, around the plaza, were crowds 
of citizens, examining their trinkets and other commodities, 
brought by the hucksters to market. I observed that many 
were the dollars expended in worthless things, to be used as 
Christmas compliments. These holiday merchants had not 
opened their goods for a temporary residence of a few 
hours, but had located themselves for day and night, as each 
individual had prepared him or herself with a petate, mat, 
upon which to slumber when wearied. 

The scene was truly most confused and lively ; more so 
than any I had ever beheld ; and I, for the time, began to 
think that there was some enterprise amongst the Mexicans ; 
for it was the only sight I had discovered like business since 
I had been in the country. » 

By the way, it would not be improper here to remark, 
that all business, of merchandise or otherwise, is done in 
Mexico, through the corredor, a broker. If an individual 
wishes to purchase a lot of goods, he employs a broker to 
transact the affair for him ; or if any other bargains are to 
be made, the same agency is used. The vender, and the 
actual vendee, have no occasion to know one another, for 
the broker is supposed to keep in his bosom the name of the 
individual for whose benefit the purchase is made. In this 
manner much chicanery is used by these agents, who are 
constantly seen pimping and prying into every man's effects, 
without knowing who is in want of his goods or property. 
The brokers comprise a large class of the community, and 
are ever ready to buy or sell any commodity. They must, 
however, be watched, for they are great rogues. 

At night, it being Christmas-eve, I again visited the plaza, 
in company with two of my American acquaintances. The 
scene was much heightened, in its interesting confusion, 
from that beheld during the day. The multitude of holiday 



232' TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

merchants, who thronged the side-walks, were now scatter- 
ed all over the plaza, seated on their mats in Indian fashion, 
and only discoverable through the dark volumes of smoke 
that circled upwards from the pine torches; and, as the 
crowd of citizen spectators passed to and fro, and the 
guards of soldiers, with their bright weapons gleaming 
through the smoke of the torch-light, marched along, the 
whole formed a scene more picteresque than any encamp- 
ment of the kind I ever beheld. 

But, as the hour grew late, the interest I had before 
taken was diminished, by discovering that many of both 
sexes were intoxicated by drinking pulque, the essence of 
maguey, a cheap liquid, used mostly by the lazarones. 

It happened that, just as we were making up our minds 
to leave the plaza, it was my lot to have a serious warning 
to depart from thence. As I was passing along, a few steps 
in front of my friends, a supposed intoxicated Mexican 
rushed from a crowd near me, and, with a long knife in his 
hand, exclaimed " Que mureram los estrangeros /" Death to 
all strangers ! I did not know what the wretch said ; but, 
from my friends calling to me, and from a scuffle which en- 
sued between the assassin and his countrymen, I quickly 
learned that the Mexican designed to attack us. We then 
visited the cathedral, to witness the ceremonies of the night. 

On my entering this splendid cathedral, although it was 
at a late hour, the vast building then contained one thou- 
sand and upwards, of worshippers. These were composed 
of all castes and characters of both sexes. The place, in- 
deed, appeared to be a solemn one to me ; and who could 
look with indifference or disrespect over so vast a multi- 
tude, all kneeling in adoration of that being whom I, from 
my first impressions, was taught to reverence. And, as the 
sacred chant and solemn peal of the organ ascended the 
high vaults of the cathedral, my thoughts, for the time, were 
turned within, and my secret aspirations were involuntarily 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. I33 

raised to Him who had sustained my being at home, and in 
the midst of people of a strange land. 

I have alvi^ays had a respect for those who worshipped 
God in any form ; and, it is true, that I have never beheld 
the great Maker of the universe worshipped in so magnifi- 
cent a manner. Notwithstanding it was contrary, agreea- 
bly to my education, to the simplicity of that worship re- 
quired of his beings, as exemplified by Christ and his apos- 
tles, yet the scene amidst the blaze of a thousand candles, 
shining with resplendent briUiancy in that vast edifice, 
could not fail to impress my mind with the solemnity of the 
occasion. 

As I contemplated all around me, and the ceremony of 
raising the host was proceeding with great gravity, while 
the whole congregation bowed before the holy image of the 
cross, it seemed that there was more of form on the occa- 
sion than the understanding of the heart ; and, as my eyes 
were asjain directed towards the altar, the banisters and 
pillars, the organ and the vaulted roofs, the polished sur- 
faces of which were all of silver and gold, I could not 
help exclaiming within — " All is vanity and vexation of 
spirit." 

The ceremonies at the cathedral continued during the 
whole night. At the hour of two o'clock I returned to my 
lodgings at the Gran Sociadad. I should not close my re- 
marks of this night's exhibition without saying a word or 
two respecting the ladies of Mexico ; for, on this occasion, 
I saw a larger collection of them than I had an opportunity 
of doing during my stay in the country. The number who 
collected in the cathedral on this night was considerable. 
They were all intermixed with the common multitude ; for 
here, as well as is the case in the other churches and chap- 
els, there are no scats for the congregation ; and the wor- 
shippers can stand, kneel, or sit upon the dirty floor, as 
their inclinations or necessities may demand, except during 



Jg^ TKAVELSINMEXICO. 

certain parts of the services, when they are required to go 
through particular formalities. 

In the manner above described, I had an opportunity of 
casting my eyes over a promiscuous crowd, and of con- 
trasting the beauty of the Mexican with the European la- 
dies ; for here were people of every clime and complexion. 
From my observations of the Mexican women, as I saw 
them, both in public and private, I considered them gene- 
rally handsome. For the most part, they are low in sta- 
ture. They have invariably black hair and eyes. The skin 
of some have a tendency to fairness, in proportion to the 
care they have taken of themselves, and to their alliance 
with Europeans; yet, in the main, they appear to be sun- 
burnt, having generally a florid complexion, which gives 
them a singularly beautiful aspect. The largest portion of 
them, however, have a dark brunette or Indian cast. The 
expression of their countenance, in general, is distinguished 
for its mildness and gentleness ; this, added to their suavity 
and languishing air, makes their deportment peculiarly in- 
teresting ; and, I could almost say that to see one of them 
is to love her. 

The ladies of Mexico, who have advanced to middle 
age, as I observed, had mostly a tendency to be plethoric. 
The old matrons have the most enfeebled appearance of 
those of any country I had ever seen, their features being 
deeply marked with the furrows of age. The effects of ac- 
cumulated years, in this high arid climate, not only lay 
violent hands on the natives themselves, but all who have 
resided long in that dry and hot atmosphere have an appear- 
ance of having been " parched^ wearied, riven." The skin 
too has a dark, crusty aspect. I once heard a wag remark, 
that it was his opinion, a French doctor would do well by 
introducing into the country an apparatus for-puffing plump- 
ness to the skin. 

Premature debility and declining aspect, is also attributa- 
ble, no doubt, to the fact that young ladies, in that climate. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



135 



commence the career of life earlier than is the custom in 
more northern latitudes. I have not unfrequently seen, 
especially among the lower classes, a mother of the age of . 
thirteen years, while the husband and father was only a lad 
of eighteen. Hence the consequence must be, that the mo- 
ther of some five or six in number, at the youthful age of 
twenty or twenty-five years, must feel and appear to have 
a broken and wasted constitution ; while those of a colder 
clime, and double their years, will yet be athletic and heal- 
thy. By this healthy bloom of cheek, our widows are en- 
couraged to hope for her second, or, perhaps, third husband ; 
thereby encountering double and treble responsibilities. 

The most fashionable and wealthy circles of Mexican 
ladies are not only very tasty, but extravagant in dress, fol- 
lowing, in the main, all the varieties and change of pattern, 
as practised at the fountains of fashion in Paris ; for the ' 
city of Mexico is well supplied with French milliners, both 
men and women. I have been informed, that a Mexican 
lady never wears the same dress to a ball a second time, 
although it may have cost her some five hundred or a thou- 
sand dollars ; for silks, laces and satins are very dear in 
Mexico. 

The social habits of the ladies of this country are very 
friendly and kind among their neighbours and acquaint- 
ances. The frequency of visiting is not practised among 
them. Their calls on one another are short and friendly, 
yet made with a degree of formahty and courteousness of 
conversation which restrains the natural warmth of cha- 
racter. 

It is with much prudence, and only upon Sundays, that 
they permit themselves to be visited by young gentlemen, 
and that only between the hours of ten in the morning and 
three in the evening. The entertainments of small tea and 
dancing-parties are but little encouraged and practised 
among them, while their amours are chiefly conducted in 
■writing. By the way, it may not be improper to give an 



136 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



idea how some courtships are managed. A gentleman or 
lady who has had the shaft of Cupid to stick deep in the 
heart, expresses the passion by sending a letter to the object 
of their affections. If favourably received, this course is 
continued until their desires are consummated. 

But, where the wishes of the parties are anticipated to be 
in opposition to those of the parents or guardians, the lover 
not only writes, every clandestine opportunity which pre- 
sents itself, but in disguise, if fearful of observation, with 
slouched hat, and cloak or serapi drawn over his face, he 
will take his stand at the corner of a street, and in this man- 
ner, while basking in the sunshine, will indulge himself for 
a whole day, in beholding the charms of his adored one, 
who, perchance, now appears upon the corridor or portal, 
and then at the window, resembling a lone dove imprisoned 
in a cage, which, by wistful, languishing looks and pertur- 
bed motion, longs to be free, and cleave the heaven so 
much beloved. 

It is not unusual for some swains, who have been debar- 
red from the opportunities of sending a letter, to take the 
occasion, when the fair one is on the portal, to pass by, and, 
at the proper distance, suddenly throw open a sheet of pa- 
per which has a Vi^ord or two written in large letters, so 
that the eyes of the lady may decipher it, eagle-eyed as 
they are to read. In these cases a syllable is as much as a 
volume. 

The reader, however, is not to imagine, from the above 
description of the manners and customs of the ladies of 
Mexico, that each has not her moments of ostentation, 
gaiety and coquetry. For if you could see her, when ex- 
posed to public gaze, visiting her favourite places of amuse- 
ment, the theatre, the alemade, or the pasio, you might then 
behold her, from her sumptuousness of dress, and by the 
light quivering of her fan between her delicate fingers, as 
she saluted those of her acquaintance who may come under 
the notice of her love-sparkling eyes ; — I say, you might 
there behold a being whose heart is susceptible of the warm- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. I37 

est sympathies of our nature, and whose charms, on such 
occasions, hover like" the evening rain-bow to embrace the 
spell-bound spirits of her admirers. 

But little can be seen of the Mexican lady, excepting on 
great ball and procession occasions ; then, the elegance of 
her person, the modesty of her manners, and the cheerful 
loveliness of her smiles, never fail to feast the soul of the 
beholder. 

The females of Mexico never wear bonnets,but cover their 
heads with an article of dress called a rehoso, a kind of 
shawl some six feet long, and nearly half the same in 
breadth. This reboso not only covers the head, but is closely 
drawn over the face ; and, by being crossed in front, ob- 
scures the bosom. I did not, but upon one instance, see a 
lady wearing a bonnet, and she was a European. I was in- 
formicd that all ladies from abroad, on their arrival at the 
city of Mexico, conformed to the prevalent customs and 
fashions of the place, in walking and riding with uncovered 
heads. However, I was pleased to see the English lady, 
with great good sense, maintain the privilege of the bonnet, 
and not throw aside a comfort and an elegance to gratify 
the intolerant and bigoted spirit of the natives, who scorn 
any other ways than their own ; and the lady, if she saw 
me, little knew how unconsciously she was delighting a 
stranger, who, by the sight of her bonnet, was reminded of 
those at home who lived supreme in his thoughts. 

However, the ladies of Mexico, on appearing in public, 
covered with their reboso, are, on some occasions, a little 
kind, in having but a small portion of this article of dress 
over their heads, the folds of which, by an inadvertent cast 
of one of her hands, will drop, and, for a moment, the be- 
holder is blessed with a view of her bosom and waist. And, 
what is astonishing, she will not unfrequcntly be seen hold- 
ing a corner of her shawl, or handkerchief, over her mouth, 
to prevent the deleterious effects of breathing the pure air; 
as the Mexicans universally believe that all of their mala- 



J38 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

dies are derived from the atmosphere. Hence it is, that if 
you perceive a Mexican with his head bound up, or look 
dejected otherv^^ise, his reply, made with a shrug of the 
shoulders, and a leer of the head, will invariably be, "Los 
ira" — the air. 

There is no purer atmosphere to be found on the face of 
the earth than is breathed on the plains of Mexico ; yet the 
Mexicans seem to apprehend more detriment from it than 
from the vomito of the coasts. But as I advance on my 
journey up the country, I shall give my attention again to 
the ''los ira." 

The twenty-fifth of December, Christmas-day, was also 
marked by many other festivities. There was during the 
whole day, the firing of rockets from the churches, and of 
cannon from before the national palace, at the plaza. In 
the evening, General Canalize, the dictator, pro tern., in his 
coach of state, accompanied by his guards of lancers, com- 
manded by a general officer, rode through the streets to the 
alemade and the pasio. To inform plain republicans in the 
United States, that it was an extraordinary sight for the first 
officer of the republic of Mexico to appear in his coach, 
•would not awaken their imaginations to the gaudy and royal 
state in which such things are done there. But never was 
I more surprised, and indeed indignant, than when I beheld 
the chief magistrate of a republican government aping the 
gaudy show and circumstance of royal pride to please and 
gull a gaping people. I had thought that in the enlightened 
age of the nineteenth century, republicans of all the conti- 
nent of America had thrown aside and disdained the tinsel 
of monarchical pageantry and aristocracy, basing their 
noble bearing alone on the soundness of their constitutional 
principles, and devotion to their country's weal. 

But so far from the Dictator of Mexico appearing in plain 
garb and equipage, and like Washington assuming in public 
to be nothing more than a servant of the people and a pri- 
vate citizen,^ — Gen. Canalize had his coach literally fringed 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. I39 

and covered with gold ; and I hardly knew which the most 
to admire, the splendid uniforms of his coachmen, or that of 
his own. But for the fact, that the Dictator, instead of the 
driver, wore the shopo, and was seated within, I would have 
mistaken that Yankee, mounted on his seat like a golden 
throne, for the Dictator pro tem. of the Republic of Mexico. 

There were also Generals dressed in full uniforms, at- 
tending as outriders to his Excellency, while not less than 
a hundred lancers were his body guard. Hang down your 
heads ye respectable republicans and generals of the United 
States ! for you cannot aspire to being postillions and body- 
servants to the most high in authority. 

Having seen the big show of the Dictator, I followed the 
crowd to the Plaza de los Torres, for I was not satisfied 
with my speculations, upon the different castes of society, 
and the moral tone pervading each. Having convinced 
myself that decent and respectable portions of society, em- 
bracing both sexes, visited the shows of bull-fighting, I at- 
tended the exhibition, remaining there as long as I could do 
so with any degree of ease or comfort. I observed a mo- 
ther with three children, call their attention so particularly 
to the scene of blood, that they might not escape seeing all 
the cruel performances of the occasion. I soon left the bar- 
barous amphitheatre, never intending to enter it again. 

It often happens in human affairs, that, when the fields 
look most gay, and pleasures are flooding in upon us, almost 
producing an elysium upon earth, sudden reverses will 
overtake the unsuspecting, and turn the glee of mirth and 
the pomp of pride into trembling, fear, and wailing. 

So it happened, that just at the present crisis of Mexican 
affairs, on the glad day of Christmas, the news reached 
the capital, that a British fleet had arrived before Vera 
Cruz, to demand satisfaction for an insult offered to the 
British flag by the Dictator of Mexico. 

Upon my arrival at the city, I found that not only the Mexi- 
cans, but foreigners of all nations, were much excited on the 



J40 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

subject of the difficulty between the two nations, which 
grew out of an affair that happened at a national ball, 
given by Santa Anna at the Government Palace. The Dic- 
tator had directed that the ball-room should be decorated 
with the trophies of flags which had been taken by the 
Mexicans in battle. Among the number, conspicuously 
placed, was the English Jack. 

On the arrival of Mr. Doyle, the British Charge de 
Affaires, who was an invited guest at the ball, he discovered 
that one of the ensigns of his country was spread out as a 
trophy, to decorate the brilliancy and glory of the occasion. 
Mr. D., in the prompt performance of his duty, peremptori- 
ly demanded of the Dictator of Mexico, that the Jack should 
be taken down, as a flag had never been won by the Mexi- 
cans of the English. The Dictator did not hesitate to veto 
its removal, and Mr. D. immediately, in the just spirit of 
resentment, left the palace, and as a British sloop of war 
was lying at Vera Cruz, he despatched her home, with in- 
formation to his monarch of the insult offered to her flag. 

The anxiety produced by the suspended relations of the 
two powers, not only caused confusion with the English in 
Mexico, but with all other foreigners ; as a state of war 
would throw many obstacles in the way of all, particularly 
those who had to travel, and who spoke the English tongue. 
For the Mexicans are so prejudiced, that, when at war, they 
do not spare or protect private citizens, or any who belong 
to the enemy of their country. 

It was amusing to witness the commotion of feeling pro- 
duced, upon the news of every arrival of a ship at Vera 
Cruz. A thousand well-authenticated different rumours 
would be circulating at the same time among the people, 
and it did occasionally seem that the good people of Mex- 
ico almost heard the British bomb-shells, cracking over the 
castle of San Juan de Ulloa. 

Nevertheless, it proved that, up to the 5th day of Janu- 
ary, no Enghsh fleet had arrived off the coast. The go- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J4J 

vernment, in anticipation of the desperate result, had order- 
ed troops to Vera Cruz, to fortify the fort and the city; but 
men and officers positively refused to obey orders, declaring 
that it would be certain death for them to undertake to de- 
fend the city. 

The government had therefore to send a despatch to the 
British Queen, announcing its willingness to surrender the 
Jack to any of the English authorities empowered to receive 
it, with the exception of Mr. Doyle. Thus making a per- 
sonal affair of the whole difference between the Charge de 
Affaires and the Mexican Dictator. I should not be sur- 
prised, however, if her Majesty obliged the Mexicans to 
deliver the Union Jack, with a royal salute, to his Excel- 
lency, upon the Plaza.* 

* Since the above was written, the British Sovereign has received the apolo- 
gy of Santa Anna, and Mr. Doyle was recalled. 



142 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Indisposition of some of the Deputies. A failure of a quorum. The Deputies installed. 
Speech of Caiializo. Reply of Ximenes. Celebration of the installation. How things 
are done in Mexico. Worship of the Golden Sun. Firing of cannon. Splendid illumi- 
nation of the Cathedral and Plaza. Installation of the President elect. Canalizo, the 
proxy of Santa Anna. Celebration of the installaiion of the President. The worship of 
the Christian, a happy exchange for the native. Grand parade of all the military. My 
stay in the city of Mexico. If the will of the people was known. Mr. Green gave me 
notice not to leave tlie city. Copy of the secret order. Determined to take the advice 
of Gen. Thompson. Gen. 'I'hompson's negotiation. My opinion. Mexican persecu- 
tion. Two Americans imprisoned at Guymas. Who are the Mexicans ? Union of the 
European and Indian blood. Comparative difference of the Christian and Savage wor- 
ship. Mild disposition of the Mexican. Love of country. The Mexicans are a motley 
race. Solemnity and sadness of countenance. Mexican politeness. Confidence in no 
one who cannot blush. 



In consequence of the indisposition of some of the depu- 
ties of the Mexican Congress, as communicated by letter to 
the Dictator pro tern., a failure of a quorum occurred. 
Therefore, upon the day in course for the regular install- 
ment of the members, the house could not be organised. 
This indisposition of the deputies was supposed by some to 
have been more the result of a mental than a bodily cause, 
in consequence of their disgust with the politics of the 
country, and their want of confidence in the Dictator ; as 
they, during their last session, were driven from their seats 
by military force. And I was forcibly reminded, by their 
excuses, of the Seminole chief Sam Jones, who, when com- 
manded by General Jessup to come in and surrender, re- 
,turned word that he was lame, and could'nt walk. 

The deputies were not installed until the first day of 
January. I took the opportunity of visiting the palace in 
company with an American gentleman, — who, from a long 
residence in the country, not only knew men and politics, 
but understood the Spanish language well, — and witnessing 
the opening of the session of the house for the first time un- 
der the new constitution. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. i .„ 

After the speaker had called the house to order, Gen. 
Canalizo rose from his seat, and, in a handsome manner, 
informed the deputies of the state and condition of the Re- 
public. During his speech, he remarked that the commerce 
of the country was in a flourishing condition, and that the 
agricultural and mining interests were never in a more pros- 
perous state, or yielded larger profitable results. He con- 
cluded by eulogising the manufactures of the country, ap- 
pealing to the honourable body to protect the industry of 
the nation. 

The grave and accomplished gentleman having taken his 
seat, the majority of the Deputies appeared, by their smiles 
of approbation, to be gratified with the flattering account 
which Gen. C. had been pleased to give of the happiness 
and prosperity of the Kepublic. 

But when Ximenes, the President of the Senate, rose up 
in his place, which was a throne, under a royal purple cano- 
py, fringed with- gold, (as often seen from the pulpit, the 
only throne in the United States,) he most unexpectedly, 
soon put to the blush many of the high coloured assertions 
of the honourable Dictator pro tem. 

In his reply to his colleague of the Executive, he most 
respectfully requested leave to differ with his excellency, 
who had taken his seat. For in the first place, he stated 
that, so far from the commerce of the country being in a flour- 
ishing condition, it had been almost efi'ectually destroyed 
by the recent decrees, leaving a prohibitory tariff" on most 
of the articles of manufacture, which were formerly import- 
ed into the country. He also said, that he had not been 
able to discover the good results the protective system had 
given or could give to any portion of the Republic ; for the 
consumer was obliged, under the decree, to pay from two 
to four times as much, in many instances, for the elegancies 
and necessaries of life, as those articles formerly cost his 
fellow-citizens. 

Besides, he said, what the more disparaged him was, 



J44 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

that after they had protected the manufacturer, he was 
yet complaining of his manufactures yielding no profit, and 
still demanding the aid of the government, while he was 
unable to pay any bonus for the monopoly he enjoyed ; at 
the same time, he remarked, that the decree was extracting 
largely from the pockets of the people. 

He also stated, that he was of the opinion that agriculture 
was on the decline; for although there were no duties levied 
upon exportations of the products of the farmer, yet, as 
almost all trade had been lopped off from the country, and 
foreign powers were compelled to turn the tide of their im- 
portations to other parts of the world than their own, and 
in consequence needed not their surplus produce— inasmuch 
as other nations were maritime, and Mexico possessed no 
shipping — the former had to receive a reduced price from 
the manufacturer for his grain, or else suffer it to rot in his 
granaries. Hence it was, he said, that numbers of farmers 
would lose their places upon the Hacienda campus, and 
would not find employment in the manufactories or the 
mines ; for the plain reason, that there was already a suf- 
ficiency of labour, in those branches of industry. 

He concluded his remarks by saying, that the mines also 
had not yielded as in former years ; and notwithstanding all 
these facts, the national debt was increasing, while at the 
same time the Executive, who in reality was the govern- 
ment, was making demands for increased expenditures and 
protection. 

The reply of the President of the senate, to the speech of 
the Dictator, turned the smiles of some into frowns ; and 
while others dared not approbate the remarks, at least every 
learned and profound member looked as if he just had his 
eyes skinned. After these speeches of the two high func- 
tionaries, the house adjourned ;«for this was all that consti- 
tuted the installation of the Deputies. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon commenced the celebra- 
tion of the occasion ; for nothing in Mexico can be perform- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. j^c 

ed without having rejoicing, and the results of such moves 
have always happy effects in the benefits which they afford 
the ambitious with the multitudes of every country, and in 
winning the favour of the people. 

Bonaparte was not deficient in having his bonfires and 
shows at the corners of the streets, to bribe the common 
herd ; as also his grand parades. And I am heartily per- 
suaded, that p^rocessions and shows of rejoicing can be cor- 
rupted for ambitious and inimical purposes, to the detriment 
of the people. It is to be regretted that the people of the 
United States are suffering the innovation of such hum- 
buggery. 

But that the world may know how things are done in 
Mexico, I will give some detail of my observations on the 
grand occasion of the celebration of the installation of the 
Deputies. At the appointed time, the citizens had assem- 
bled in considerable numbers on the Plaza, as if they had 
congregated to worship the golden sun on the palace, or the 
eight six-pounders which were drawn before that ancient 
building. As I cast my eyes around, I observed the be- 
witching smiles of many fair faces, who were blessing some 
hopeful few ; and it was with some sympathy that I noticed 
the convulsed nerves of the lovely ones, as the thundering 
peals of the cannon reported volley after volley. The 
firing of the cannon and the playing of the music continued 
until the close of the day. 

When night came, a splendid illumination of the cathe- 
dral, the palace, and all the houses around the Plaza, took 
place. I could not refrain from going to witness this grand 
scene. The windows and the tops of the portals of the 
houses round the Plaza and the palace, all shone with a bril- 
liant illumination, while the margins of the flat roofs of the 
buildings presented an extensive line of blazing torches, ap- 
pearing like streams of fire as seen at a distance on moun- 
tain heights. But as I turned my direction towards the 
cathedral, it was then that my eyes caught the full blaze of 
10 



J46 TKAVELS IN MEXICO. 

light ; for from the earth to the top of the two high steeples, 
it was studded with burning lamps, casting wide their light 
over the city. And as the iJliimination shot its rays high 
in the heavens, like the eternal fires on the Aztic temple, 
that once covered the same ground, the distant mountains 
of porphyritic rock seemed to have caught the red glare. 
It called to my mind the period when all Anahuac wor- 
shipped the sun, and when, as the blazes of the. torches as- 
cended up to the bright luminary of the heavens, the cen- 
sers on the fires before the altars contained the hearts of 
thousands of human victims sacrificed to appease blind and 
imaginary gods. I thought of that unfortunate period in the 
history of the conquerors, when forty of their number, who 
had been taken prisoners by the barbarians, were marched 
in long procession, within the distant view of their compa- 
nions, who could not come to their rescue, and with solemn 
chant were seen to wind their way around the high temple 
up to its top, there to be extended upon the jasper sacrificial 
stone, and with breasts protruded and frantic screams, have 
their hearts torn out, held to the sun, and then thrown to 
the altars of their sanguinary deities. 

Although the illumination revived in my memory those 
past historical events, yet the present temple, I reflected, was 
erected to the one, true, and living God of the adorable 
Trinity, — the Christian's God, proclaiming " peace on earth 
and good will to man," and if corrupted in its purity, still it 
is the Christian religion which is preached within its walls ; 
a happy exchange for the idolatry of former days. 

On the following day the President elect was to be in- 
stalled. Gen. Santa Anna was not in the city, but had re- 
turned to Mango de Clavo, immediately after the period of 
the big national ball, when he made the fatal mistake with 
the British Jack, in making it a glorious trophy. Doubtless 
the vanity of the man, in his desire for fame, had persuaded 
him, as well as it wished to impose upon the credulity of 
his people, that he had achieved a victory over the red 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. j^iy 

coats, when every body knew^ that he had never done any 
other fighting, besides the massacreing of his own people, 
saving the mishap of San Jacinto, and the gallant loss of his 
leg at Vera Cruz. 

Santa Anna, the President elect, under the constitution of 
his own creating, was empowered to appoint the electors, 
and of course they were obliged to return the compliment 
by electing him who had appointed them, their president. 
The installation was by proxy, — Gen. Canalizo, his man 
Friday, representing the President elected. 

Although Santa Anna had, upon that day, laid down the 
absolute powers of the Dictatorship, yet it was a mere far- 
cical exchange of names; for the title of President, under 
the instrument which he called the constitution, gave him all 
the dictatorial functions that he might require. 

The day which ushered the quondam Dictator to the pre- 
sidency had likewise to be celebrated, and as morning 
dawned, it was hailed by the firing of cannon, continued at 
intervals during the day. Ten thousand troops, which had 
been stationed in the city, were taken to the private resi- 
dence of the president, where, it is said, the wily chieftain 
quartered them to consume the cattle of his well-stocked 
haciendas. This left remaining, for the protection of the 
President pro tern., a force equal to the entire standing army 
of the United States, of five thousand men. These troops, 
consisting of artillery, infantry and cavalry, well equipped, 
paraded the streets early in the morning, marching and 
counter-marching through every avenue of the city. 

The bands of music accompanying the military were ex- 
cellent. The soldiers were all good looking fellows, and in 
the pride they appeared to take in the .parade, looked as if 
they had been well drilled and disciplined. The military 
are devoted to their master. President Santa Anna ; and it is 
by them, not by the suffrages of the people, that he main- 
tains his power. As I viewed the pompous procession, my 
bosom was kindled with feelings of native republican pride, 



]^g TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

and I renewed my resolve, that as long as the spirit of a Vir- 
ginian dwelt in my breast, I would never tolerate military 
usurpation and dictatorial despotism. 

It is related by historians that seventy thousand human 
beings were sacrificed at the coronation of Montezeuma. 

In the pageantry of the celebration of the installation of 
the President, and the exhibition of his extraordinary pow- 
ers, it was perceptible that the people did not have much 
heart ; for at night, when the illumination took place at the 
Plaza, I did not see more people assembled than on ordinary 
occasions. On the contrary, when this spectacle was in 
honour of the instalment of the house of Deputies, there was 
an almost impenetrable crowd. Besides, they seemed to 
have been as much rejoiced as if they had just obtained 
their liberty and independence. Whereas, when the truly 
imposing spectacle of the soldiery was presented in the 
streets, there were few people to be seen, — considering their 
fondness for show ; — and all the day I observed that the in- 
habitants confined themselves more to their homes, than it 
was their habit of doing on their festival occasions. 

I heard it stated, by more than one Mexican, that the 
parading of the military was only a stratagem of Santa 
Anna to intimidate the Deputies in their deliberations ; and 
all the world knew that he had, previous to their installa- 
tion, issued a decree, that they, the representatives of the 
people, should not investigate his acts, and that he, as Dic- 
tator, was not responsible to them ! And they had good rea- 
son to fear, for they well remembered that the last Congress 
of Mexico was annihilated and dispersed by Santa Anna's 
having a regiment of his grenadiers, commanded by Capt. 
Cortes, stationed at the door of the deliberative chamber, to 
prevent their meeting. Captain C. is a native of the state 
of Louisiana. He descriFed to me the history of the day, 
and remarked, that whenever a Deputy demanded of him 
admission into the chamber, he was obliged to avert his 
head with shame, when refusing the supreme representa- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



149 



tives of the people, entrance to their hall ; so that by their 
rightful deliberations, they might preserve the liberties of 
their country. I heard a Mexican say also, that the sol- 
diers might fire their cannon, and the priests illuminate the 
cathedral ; but if the will of the people was expressed, the 
palace and the cathedral would both be hung in sable. 

My stay in the city was much longer than I had wished, 
or expected it would have been. My destination to San 
Francisco, Upper California, being above two thousand 
miles north of the capitol of Mexico, it was with no degree 
of pleasure that my delay was extended to a period of nine 
weeks. The difficulties and dangers I should necessarily 
be obliged to encounter in the hazardous journey, inland, 
which I contemplated, were continually oppressing my 
mind, and I daily desired to commence the undertaking, so 
that by the toils to be endured, and the change of scene, I 
might obtain relief. 

In the first place, my baggage, that had been promised 
me by the conductor at Vera Cruz, should be delivered in 
the city of Mexico in eighteen days, from the time of my 
departure from that place, did not reach me under thirty- 
six. Next, in consequence of a communication to Gen. 
Thompson, from one of the northern departments of Mex- 
ico, I received notice through his secretary, Mr. Green, not 
to leave the city on my journey, until the subject of difficul- 
ty, originating from the communication which he had re- 
ceived, had been settled with the government of Mexico. 
For the entire satisfaction of the public, I will give the order, 
the subject of negotiation, as furnished to me by the Secre- 
tary of the American Legation, in Spanish and English. 

" Ministerio de Guerra y Marina. 
" Es' mo S'r. 

"El. E. S. Presidente provisional usando de los facul- 
tades, q. le concede la ley de 22 de Febrero de 1832, y con- 
vencido de q. no convicre q. los naturales de los E. U. del 
Norte tengan su residencia en ese Departmento del mando 



J5Q TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

V. S. se ha servido resolver que salzan de el, en el termino 
prudente q. V- S. les fine al efecte, y q. en lo sincero no se 
admite en el mismo Departo. a mix un individad periine- 
ciente a los Espresados Estados Unidos ; debiendo enten- 
derse esta prohibicion aun pava los limitrofes a ese de Cali- 
fornias ; i cuyo fin, con esta fecha, hajo las respectivas com- 
municaciones ; lo que tengo el honor de decir a V. S. para 
su conocimiento, recomendandole mui eficazmente el com- 
plimiento de esta suprema resolucion. 

«Dios y Libertad. Mejico, Julio 14, 1843. 
" (Firmado.) Tornel. 

" E. S. Gubernador 

y Com. Gen. de Californias." 

" En la misma fecha. 

" Se inserto esta orden a los gobernadores de Sonora, 
Sinaloa, y Chihuahua. El S'r Urrea contest6 al Gobierno, 
asegenadole q. yu habid comenzado i obrar." 

" Department of War and Marine. 

" The President pro tern., by virtue of the powers granted 
him by the law of the 22d February, 1832, convinced of 
the impropriety of permitting the natives of the United 
States to reside in the Department, under the command of 
your Excellency, has resolved that they should be ordered 
out of it, within such time as it may appear most prudent 
to you, and that in future no individual belonging to the 
above named United States be permitted entrance into said 
department ; it being understood that this order is to apply 
also even to the frontier of the department, to which, and 
under this date, I have the honour to make known to your 
Excellency, recommending you to carry this supreme order 
■ into complete effect. 

" God and Liberty. 
"Mexico, July 14, 1843. 
" (Signed.) Tornel. 

" To his Excellency the Governor and 

" Commandant General of the Galifornias." 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. * J52 

Accompanying the communication received by Gen. 
Thompson, of which the above is a true copy, was a note 
giving the information that — 

" Under the same date, the same order has been comrhu- 
nicated to the Governor of Sinora, Sinaloa, and Chihuahua. 
Gen. Urrea rephed to the government, assuring it that the 
order had ah'eady been put in force." 

The reception of the above order by the American minis- 
ter, demanded of him to act with promptness and decision. 
And it should be borne in mind, that upon the issuing of this 
decree, the American minister had not been furnished with 
a copy according to usage ; but the government secretly 
communicated its commands to the Governors for it to be 
put into full effect, before the American Legation could be 
made aware of its existence, to prevent its nefarious opera- 
tions. This, too, transpired at a time of profound peace 
between the two republics, contrary to the usages of na- 
tions, and the existence of treaties between the two coun- 
tries. 

I determined therefore to take the advice of Gen, Thomp- 
son, and wait the issue of his correspondence with the Mexi- 
can government. The General lost no time in communi- 
cating a copy of the order to Gen. Bocanegra, Minister of 
Foreign Relations, demanding to know of him, if the copy 
of the above order was correct, and acknowledged by the 
authorities. Receiving no reply to either of his communi- 
cations, he again gave to his private secretary the third let- 
ter, to be delivered to the Minister of Mexico, which in- 
formed him, that as it appeared to be the pleasure of the 
government not to give him that satisfaction which he had 
a right to expect, he should take the liberty to construe its 
silence into an acknowledgment of the order, and a deter- 
mination to persist in its unjust and unprecedented requisi- 
tions. Accordingly, being thus impressed, he could not 



152 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



perceive any other alternative than that he should demand 
his passport, suspend his negotiations on the close of that 
day, and take his departure for the United States, if he was 
not, before the setting of the sun, fully and satisfactorily re- 
plied to. 

Gen. Thompson, previous to his knowledge of the exist- 
ence of the order expelling Americans from the Californias, 
had asked the President of the United States for his recall, 
and in anticipation of his permission had had all of his ef- 
fects packed up and shipped to Vera Cruz. There was 
nothing, therefore, to detain him, being prepared at any mo- 
ment to depart in the diligencia, if the Mexican minister 
should not give him ample satisfaction, if the order had 
been recognised by him, — rescind the same, — and make 
abundant indemnity for all damages sustained through its 
means by American citizens. 

The General did not receive a reply till after the close of 
day. The government evidently became alarmed at the 
firm and manly course of the American minister, and at his 
consistency of declaration, having entered his name on the 
way-bill for Vera Cruz on the following morning. His 
Excellency Bocanegra, to prevent him from leaving the 
city, had embargoed the diligencia. But after the General 
had retired to bed on that night, he was waked up to re- 
ceive a communication from the minister of foreign rela- 
tions. This contained an apology for his not having re- 
ceived a reply from the government sooner, and acknow- 
ledged, verbatim, the truth of the order made by the Presi- 
dent of Mexico. 

But in " acknowledging the corn," as Mr. Randolph said, 
they stated in explanation, that the odious instrument was 
not alone intended for the citizens of the United States ; but 
was also designed to embrace the people of all nations ; and 
that it was not to be put into effect, excepting against those 
who rendered themselves detrimental to the peace of the 
country, and the good administration of the government by 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jgg 

the Mexican authorities ; stating, moreover, that the order 
had been revoked. 

Now, in the name of common sense, if any one can read 
the order, how can he say that such a construction, tacitly 
or impKed, can be put upon the plain language of the order, 
as the explanation and apology assumed. 

Our minister, for the sake of preserving the peace and 
harmony of the two countries, accepted the explanations, 
and thus the affair terminated amicably. My own views 
on the above detailed negotiation between the two ministers, 
as I remarked also to Gen. Thompson, convinced me in re- 
gard to the order, that it was penned in a hostile and nefa- 
rious spirit, looking at the words of it in the most favoura- 
ble aspect; and I feared much that all friendly relations 
between the United States and Mexico had ceased, and that 
the only remedy left for the redress of grievances, on the 
part of the Union, was to chastise her hostile and unkind 
neighbour into a just and equitable performance of friendly 
relationship. The order had for its character, a malicious 
spirit against an exclusive and peaceful population, who 
should have demanded the protection of the laws of the 
country for their enterprise and industrious habits. 

The secrecy employed by the insidious minister of war 
and navy, in issuing the order to the different departments 
for its enforcement, must appear to the minds of all, to have 
been a deed of the darkest treachery which the powers of 
one nation could have betrayed towards another while in 
friendly relations. And I am convinced, by long reflection 
and the accumulation of facts, that so wicked, premeditated 
and wanton an act, on the part of Mexico, should not have 
been permitted to be explained away, without the assur- 
ances of an indemnity for our citizens, for loss and damages, 
which might have been sustained by the enforcement of the 
order. 

I do not express my sentiments with a view of giving 
utterance to any unkind feelings towards Gen. Thompson ; 



154 



TKAVELS IN MEXICO. 



for. that gentleman must be aware, that his own friendship 
and politeness, extended towards me, would be an honoura- 
ble barrier against so base a deed. On the contrary, I 
have the highest respect for his acknowledged talents, his 
years, and long experience in public life, and, the services, 
during which, he has rendered his country. Still, I have no 
doubt, he will excuse me when I say that, although he had 
the United States executive and senate to think with him, I 
would much rather he should have demanded his passport 
instead of receiving the explanation ; and thus, by refusing 
an apology, and the false pretensions of the Mexican diplo- 
macy, he would have made them feel in want of our 
friendship, and caused them, like France, to fear offending 
again. 

The American citizens, who had settled in the Californi- 
as, were mostly of that most harmless of all communities, 
namely, farmers. And, by one dash of the pen, a decree went 
forth from the national palace, by which they were all, at the 
same time, obliged to sell their crops, stocks and lands at a 
reduced price, in consequence of the glut of the market. 
This, perhaps, was the design of those in authority, owing 
to the many expulsions of the old Spaniards, who, escaping 
with their lives, yet lost their property and valuables. 

It would seem that the Mexican government, in their ani- 
mosity (for I can find no other name to apply to it) towards 
the American people, take great pleasure in persecuting and 
oppressing them whenever an opportunity offers to exhibit 
so unfriendly a feeling. I am entirely at a loss to conjec- 
ture the cause, unless it has its origin in the fact that Gen. 
Santa Anna was defeated at San Jacinto, and that his pre- 
sent minister of war and the navy, when in the United 
States in the capacity of Mexican minister, received a 
horsewhipping before Barnum's hotel in Baltimore. And I 
would here express the opinion, that I know of no power 
on earth that Mexico should make her best friend more than 
the United States. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 255 

But, as I was about to remark, the disagreeable affair of 
the order was hardly over before the American minister 
obtained information, through a highly respectable Spanish 
gentleman, that in the department of Sonora, of which Gen. 
Urrea, of Texian memory, is governor and general, at the 
town of Guymas, there had been, for some time, two Amcr 
ricans loaded with chains and confined in prison. 

The information reported to the American legation was, 
that while the prisoners professed ignorance of having of- 
fended against the laws of Mexico, they had respectfully 
demanded a trial, feeling innocent of any real or unknown 
allegations ; but then, in every instance, they had failed in 
obtaining justice under the Mexican laws. They had re- 
peatedly written to the American minister at the capital, 
calling upon him to aid them in obtaining their liberty, and 
redress their grievances. 

As the American minister never received their letters, it 
was concluded that they were intercepted. It was there- 
fore agreed, between the prisoners and the Spanish gentle- 
man, that, while on a visit to the city of Mexico, having to re- 
main there some time, they should address their letters to him, 
and thereby the legation would become possessed of their 
appeal. My departure from the city taking place before 
any action had been commenced in favour of the unfortu- 
nate prisoners, I never learned their ultimate fate. 

If I am asked — Who are the Mexicans 1 — of what people 
are they ? — I would reply, that they are the descendants of 
the Aztec and Tezcucan races, partly mixed with the Spa- 
nish blood ; and the Mexican has no reason to be disparaged 
in being reminded of his ancestry, for an admired historian 
has remarked, that " enough has been said to show that the 
Aztec and Tezcucan races were advanced in civilization 
very far beyond the wandering tribes of North America. 
The degree of civilization which they had reached, as in- 
ferred from their political institutions, may be considered, 
perhaps, not much short of that enjoyed by our Saxon an- 



25g TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

cestors under Alfred. In respect to the nature of it, they 
may be better compared with the Egyptians ; and the exa- 
mination of their social relations and culture may suggest 
still stronger points of resemblance to that ancient people." 

X/ I have been taught to believe that a mingling of the Eu- 
ropean vrith the Indian blood in North America, and parti- 
cularly in my own state of Virginia, was a good cross of 
the human species. For in the Old Dominion there are nu- 
merous individuals who pride themselves on their Indian 
parentage, and who, for their acquirements and position in 
the civil and military history of the country, stand unrival- 
led by any of their fellow-citizens. 

In the primitive history of every nation, there is mention 
made of their barbarous and superstitious rites in the wor- 
* ship of their deities. The Mexicans, when the country was 
first discovered by the Europeans, had many claims to the 
character of a civilized people. Arid I cannot Conceive 
why more odium should be attributed to the religious wor- 
ship of aboriginal Americans, who sacrificed human vic- 
tims at the shrines of their altars, without the light of truth 
and revelation ; while with every denomination, and every 
nation in Christendom, the smoke of hecatombs of martyrs 
has blackened the heavens, amid the frantic shouts of fiend- 
ish priests. 

.^ When we contemplate the comparative difference in the 
advance of civilization of the Christian race, who continu- 
ally hold a direct communication with heaven, through the 
patriarchs and prophets, and, lastly, by the presence of the 
Son of God himself, and then draw a retrospect of the Mex- 
ican, shut out from a communion with his Maker, with no- 
thing but the light of nature to illuminate his benighted way; 
confined on a narrow strip of land, between two vast oceans, 
and the ceremonies of whose faith partake, in some in- 
stances, of those of the Christian church; I cannot but ad- 
mire his majesty, and consider him a part of the noblest 
workmanship of the great Architect of creation. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. J57 

As an author, whom we have before quoted, remarks — 
" One may perhaps better understand the anomaly by re- 
flecting on the condition of some of the most polished coun- 
tries of Europe in the sixteenth century, after the establish- , 
ment of the modern inquisition ; an institution which yearly 
destroyed its thousands by a death more painful than the Az- 
tec sacrifices ; which raised the hand of brother against bro- 
ther, and setting its burning seal upon the lip, did more to 
stay the march of improvement than any other scheme ever 
devised by human cunning. Human sacrifices, however cru- 
el, have nothing in them degrading to their victim. It may be 
rather said to ennoble him, by devoting him to the gods. Al- 
though so terrible with the Aztecs, it was sometimes volun- 
tarily embraced by them,' as the most glorious death, and 
one that opened a sure passage into paradise. The inquisi- 
tion, on the other hand, branded its victims, as also the 
stake, with infamy in this world, and consigned them to 
everlasting perdition in the next." 

I am persuaded in the opinion, that if the present race of 
Mexicans were taught a just abhorrence of fraud and crime, 
so that a committal of such deeds could be reached and 
punished by the laws of the country ; and if they were 
instructed to dread the anarer of heaven for such acts of 
wickedness, his mildness of disposition, and native since- 
rity of manners, would make him one of the most ami- 
able of the human species. No one can visit Mexico with- 
out being forcibly impressed with the polished politeness and 
kind demeanour of the inhabitants, while at the same time 
they are ever ready to oflfer their kind services to forward 
the intentions of the traveller. 

But I would here caution those intending to journey 
through that country to beware ; as under the most accom- 
plished debonair of manners and ofl!ers of friendship the 
darkest deeds are concealed. A foreigner cannot be intro- 
duced to a Mexican without having his immediate proffer 



138 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



to be of service to him, and an inquiry of in what manner 
his assistance may be required. 

And again I would say, that from the experience of a 
toilsome journey, and my intercourse with the people of 
Mexico for many months, the stranger should judge well of 
the individual in whom he may place confidence. 

I once heard an American citizen express his desire, that 
the abrupt and often overbearing deportment of his fellow- 
countrymen could be exchanged for the due deference and 
agreeable easy politeness of the Mexicans. But as I am 
not writing a book upon the manners and customs of my 
own country, I shall not express my sentiments on this in- 
teresting subject. 

The egotism and love of country of the Mexicans is un- 
paralleled. While he thinks his native land the best on the 
globe, his opinion of himself does not degenerate ; for he 
believes that his people are the most learned and pious in 
the world ; hence his prejudice to foreigners, and opposition 
to improvement. When a foreigner has embraced all of 
his sentiments and maxims, and in every thing fashioned 
himself after his ways, he will then be tolerated, as all pro- 
selytes are, by the opinionated and bigoted, as having been 
redeemed from ignorance and superstition. 

The Mexicans are a motley race, reflecting a complex- 
ion in proportion with their mixture with the European blood, 
and exhibiting, as it were, numberless hues in the same 
crowd. At the city of Mexico, I beheld every imaginable 
colour of skin that human beings possess, excepting that of 
the African ; for of this latter race I met with none, as ne- 
groes are hardly ever to be seen at any distance from the 
coasts ; and also, from an early antipathy of the Mexicans 
to the black man, but few had ever been imported into that 
country. 

But to redeem my promise, as made in the second chap- 
ter of this book, I will now attempt to give some reasons 
for the great solemnity and sedateness of the Mexican's 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



159 



expression of countenance. Mr. Prescolt remarks that, 
" In their faltering steps, and meek and melancholy aspect, 
we read the sad characteristics of a conquered race." 

There is another reason assigned by historians for their 
gravity of aspect, which supposes it to have been first im- 
parted by the loathsome and revolting oceans of human sa- 
crifices so frequently presented to the public view. And, 
again, notwithstanding they had obtained the Christian re- 
ligion, after the conquest, yet the introduction of the inqui- 
sition along with it, continued to keep among the people the 
oppression of spirit and dejection of countenance which has 
been engrafted upon posterity. 

If I should venture to give my own opinion, I would say 
that this peculiarity of feature is to be mostly attributed to 
the climate ; for in all nations of tropical regions, the popu- 
lation exhibit a languid and grave appearance. And if an 
artist, judging from what I have seen of painting, attempts 
to represent a being oppressed by heat, he delineates very 
much of the same expression visible on the countenance of 
the Mexican. A learned philosopher once remarked, that 
he would never have confidence in any one who could not 
blush ; and I am of the opinion that he would find few in 
Mexico in whom to confide. 



IQQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER X. 

Climate of the Valley of Mexico. The climate of the Republic of Mexico. Plains without 
water. Artificial clams. Monopoly of Agriculture. Interference of the law. Landed 
estates of Mexico. Table of population. Wealth of the inhabitants. Majority of the 
people in poverty. Different castes. Want of confidence. Previous to the revolution. 
The golden age. Embezzlement of Canalizo. Products of the Mines. Solvency of 
Mexico. Forced loans. Anecdote. The people of Mexico easy to govern. A correct 
idea of the ministry of Mexico. Capt. Coin. Deformity in Church as in State. My in- 
tentions. I'he Bishop bribed. Matrimony. 

The climate of the valley of Mexico is considered to be 
the most delightful and desirable of any other known region. 
The valley of Mexico is 7,550 feet above the level of the 
sea. The capital, from its elevated position, and its being 
not more than 19^^ north latitude, is never excessively hot 
in, summer ; but to the contrary, as long residents in that 
country informed me, it is agreeably warm — sufficiently so 
to make vegetation generate luxuriantly, as I observed it 
also will in the winter months. Yet it cannot be supposed to 
compare during the winter months with that state of per- 
fection which the summer season produces. The nights are 
cool, sufficiently so to render the couch pleasant, was it not 
for the fleas and other insects. 

The climate of the republic of Mexico is by no means 
universal. The plains have a temperature generally of 62° 
Fahrenheit. The phenomena of climate that exist in Mex- 
ico are singularly peculiar to that country, not being known 
to any other regions of the earth; for the traveller cannot 
cross a mountain, without finding its opposite sides varying 
in temperature. This results from the higher elevation of 
some plains above others ; and thus it is that from the mini- 
mum of 62°, many of the valleys, as likewise the coasts on 
either side of the continent, vary in temperature to the max- 
imum of 120° of heat. Hence it is that the stranger in 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



161 

Mexico will hear of the tobacco— the sugar — the cotton — 
and the (iocoa regions. 

The best tobacco regions are said to be in Tobasco, and 
in the vicinity of the Orizava mountains. The sugar re- 
gions are principally in the valleys south of the city of 
Mexico, adjoining the Popocatepetl mountain, as also in the 
hot countries of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. Cotton 
grows to its greatest perfection at Paris, in the department 
of San Louis ; while cocoa flourishes at Tampico. 

The climate varies very much in regions adjacent to each 
other, and it often happens that products which are cultiva- 
ted on one side of a mountain, cannot come to the same 
perfection on the opposite one. Wheat and corn produce 
admirably in any of those regions, where the land can be 
irrigated ; and often much expense is incurred in conduct- 
ing the water from the mountains over the plains. However 
in some parts of the country, on the first elevation from the 
coast, nature has most accommodatingly performed the task 
without the aid of mountain streams ; as I witnessed on the 
high lands between Jalapa and Perote. This economy of 
nature is owing to the descent of the clouds in that, as in 
some other regions, as I have understood, to the surface, 
and, as they gently sweep over the land, the vegetation and 
the earth absorb the aqueous vapour contained in them. 

On plains through which no streams flow, and the moun- 
tains fail to supply water, the ingenuity of man has invented 
a mode by which the deficiency may be remedied. Whe^e 
one plain has an elevation of one portion above the remain- 
der, a dam will be thrown from one hill to the other, across 
the uneven surface, and in some instances across the ravines 
of mountains. During the three rainy months of the year, 
these reservoirs will be filled with water, and thus the far- 
mer can in any month irrigate his crops, and have his land 
in perpetual cultivation. However, as such an improvement 
is costly, and but few portions of the country afford the fa- 
cilities, at least two-thirds of the arable lands of Mexico are 
11 



|g2 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

barren wastes that can only be appropriated to the purposes 
of grazing. And hence it is that that country has ever been 
famous for its abundance of stock, the proprietor of the soil 
being unable to derive profits from his estates, otherwise 
than by herding. 

What must ever be a source of regret and oppression to 
the people of Mexico is, that the government has grasped 
the monopoly of some articles of agriculture, at the same 
time they require its permission to grow their crops, and for 
this privilege they have to take a license or pay a bo- 
nus. Although the invaluable articles of maize, or Indian 
corn, and black beans are freely granted to be cultivated 
any where, yet by statutes of the land, or by the decrees of 
the Dictator, the cultivation of all other crops are prohibit- 
ed, excepting to particular portions of the country, the far- 
mers of those particular localities having to pay for the pre- 
rogative. ■ 

The government of Mexico is the purchaser of all the to- 
bacco the planter has for market ; and only through the 
Stancer, an officer of the government, can the article be 
retailed to the people. It cannot be difficult to imagine the 
unhappy results of the interference of the law in regulating 
agriculture; for so far from the government acting with dis- 
interestedness and good faith with the people — like individ- 
uals it seeks first its own emolument, then leaving them to 
take care of themselves, it abandons the doctrine of the fun- 
damental principles of social compacts — that the law should 
have a singleness of purpose in protecting labour and the 
rights of property of its constituents, and not by its acts to 
trample upon the one, and speculate upon the other. Such 
has ever been the result of legislation in every country, 
where the avariciousness of the rulers of the good people 
has taken the management of their own, and properly, pri- 
vate affairs out of their hands. 

In Mexico, by the restrictions imposed upon agriculture, 
the monopoly of the government has beggared thousands. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



163 



who are obliged to indulge in their favourite propensity of 
theft and highway robbery — for the proprietor of the soil 
has not the want of their labour, and the factories have no 
employment for them. 

One other remark I wish to make before closing my com- 
ments on this head. Out of a population of about seven 
millions of souls, it is believed by many intelligent gentle- 
men with }vhom I conversed, that less than five hundred 
thousand people are the owners of all the landed estates in 
Mexico ; and the melancholy fact as presented by the face 
of the country is, that the unequal division of property 
among the inhabitants must unhappily be as lasting as it is 
a country. In consequence of its not raining for nine 
months in the twelve, and there being but few streams flow- 
ing from the mountains to the ocean, a small tract of land, 
of a hundred or a thousand acres, would be worthless to 
the possessor, unless it was located on one of the compara- 
tively few lakes and rivers. 

The man of moderate circumstances, separate from those 
choice spots of land, is effectually debarred from desiring 
or purchasing on the plains generally. For, in the first 
place, a small tract would be worthless to him — and in the 
next, his inability to buy an extent of territory equivalent in 
dimensions to any of the counties of our States, renders it 
impossible for any but the affluent in circumstances to enjoy 
landed property. In most places lands skirting the water 
cannot be bought, for if offered for sale, the extensive pro- 
prietor would be parting with the privilege of irrigation, 
which alone rendered the whole of any value. 

The reader will readily imagine, in the heterogeneous 
mass of the population of Mexico, the vast disproportion of 
lazarones and vagrants, who drag out a wretched and mis- 
erable existence, houseless, penniless and friendless, and 
who, when dead, unshrouded and uncoffined, are thrown into 
their shallow home, as if their mother earth spurned them 
from her bosom, to rot as beasts of the field. 



jg4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

The census of the population of Mexico, it is said, can 
not be accurately "taken. From the various estimates 
made by those having the best opportunities of knov^^ing, a 
table was furnished me by a gentleman who, from his long 
residence in the country, and by some attention paid to the 
subject, may be relied on as measurably correct 

Table of Population, 

Indians, ... - 4,500,000 

Other castes, - - - - 3,000,000 

Negroes, - - - - 6,000 



Total, - - - 7,506,000 

From the consideration of the climate, agricultural pur- 
suits, and the population of Mexico, it may not here be im- 
proper to devote a few thoughts upon the wealth of its in- 
habitants and its resources. 

As for the wealth of the Mexicans, as already remarkedj, 
the great majority of them are in abject poverty, and sub- 
sist only by begging, or by their daily labour. 

Four of the seven millions of inhabitants are Indians, and 
with very few exceptions they are not owners of property. 
The rich people of Mexico are very wealthy, being the pro- 
prietors of the soil, and the holders of the real estates in 
towns. Before the revolution, as now, agreeable to Spanish 
customs, money was hoarded by the rich in their houses, and 
never loaned upon interest— and not unfrequently do they 
run their gold and silver into bars and secrete them at their 
haciendas or palaces in town. 

An instance is related that, during the revolution, the re- 
nowned Mina visited the hacienda of Jaral, who being in- 
formed that the Conde had secreted his money at that farm, 
ordered a search, which resulted in the soldiers finding two 
hundred thousand dollars in actual cash. This practice of 
burying money has resulted in the loss of millions to circu- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. Ig5 

lation — for in Mexico, owing to the total want of confidence 
in the nearest relatives, the father, or the brother often dies 
without communicating to survivors, the place of the secret 
deposit of their hidden treasure. 

I have heard it remarked that the earth of Mexico con- 
tained coin and bars of precious metals, equivalent in 
amount to the proceeds of all the mines for one year. 
Hence it is that the Spaniards of Vera Cruz, during the 
first revolution, conceiving of no other mode of preserving 
their valuables, buried their money at Mango de Clavo, 
which ultimately resulted in Santa Anna's securing eight 
thousand doubloons, and the shameful incarceration of six 
deluded men in a dungeon. 

Previous to the revolution, when the country was under 
the more happy management of the old Spaniards, so con- 
siderable was the amount of bullion in Mexico, that some 
of the wealthy would gratify their pride, when going to ce- 
lebrate the baptism of their children, in laying bars of gold 
and silver in a continued row from their houses to the very 
altar of the church, and upon the precious metals the holy 
priest would walk to the sanctuary to perform the baptismal 
services. 

But the golden age of those days has passed away with 
the Mexicans, by the too often occurrence of revolutions, 
and the crippled commerce of their country ; as also by the 
many profitable mines having gone out of their possession 
into that of English companies ; as well as by the neglect of 
the working of others. Yet the private fortunes of some in- 
dividuals are considerable ; for I was assui'ed that the Con- 
desa de la Cortena, a rich widow, is in the constant habit of 
making a regular donation to her son of five thousand dol- 
lars monthly ; and of her fourteen agents, one of them col- 
lects and pays her eighty thousand dollars quarterly. 

So repeatedly did I hear, during my stay in Mexico, of a 
piece of slander, if slander it is, that I have no hesitation in 
giving it publicity. It is said that General Canalizo, who 



jgg TKAVELS IN MEXICO. 

was appointed Provisional Dictator by Santa Anna, in two 
months after he went into power, purchased and paid for an 
estate worth two hundred thousand dollars ; and that pre- 
vious to his appointment he was not worth one half that sum. 
It is proverbial in Mexico, that to be a cabinet officer is to 
make a fortune. 

The revolution of Mexico has yet to result in its benefi- 
cial effects to its people, for the mining interest has declined 
in the general wreck and ruin of the country. A table of 
the products of all the mines in the several departments, is 
here subjoined. It is a quotation from a new journal issued 
while I was in Mexico, in opposition to the present system 
of government. 

Product of the Mines. 

Mexico, - - - - 2,004,988 

Zacatecas, - - - 5,028,655 

Guanajuato, - - - 3,476,820 

Duraugo, .... 876,287 

Guadalajara, - - - 908,052 

Chihuahua, - - - 568,056 



Total, - - - $13,979,714 

As for the solvency of the Mexican government, the 
British claims alone, without regard to any other liabilities, 
amount, it is said, to ninety millions of dollars. The go- 
vernment, under its accustomed bad management, has made 
forced loans from private individuals to pay the interest and 
instalments of debts ; and notwithstanding this has so often 
been resorted to, yet the prodigality and individual grasping 
of the rulers, checks any improvement in the financial con- 
dition of the country. 

Forced loans are made regardless of all remonstrance, 
and • very naturally exasperated the minds of the public 
against the nation, for whose benefit the payment is to be 



TRAVELSIN MEXICO. Jgiy 

made, instead of the tyrants who impose the necessity of it. 
An anecdote is related, that when Santa Anna was making 
up the first payment of the American indemnity, among 
other citizens whom he sent for, to levy his contributions 
upon, was one Senor Don Luis Aliraeno, who had formerly 
been a foreign minister. Upon the arrival of this citizen, he 
was required to subscribe a liberal share of the indemnity ; 
but he replied to the Dictator, that he had no money. The 
despot said, " put down the citizen's wife for ten thousand 
dollars ; she is worth the property." 

The people of Mexico are certainly the easiest in the 
world to govern, or else they would not suffer themselves to 
be oppressed in so grievous a manner by their government. 
Santa Anna being informed that the issue of copper coin 
was too abundant, hurled forth a decree, calhng into the 
mints all of that currency. The holders, without delay, 
complied with the order, and received in return, not the 
cash, but government scrip. Although the copper coin in 
the hands of the people amounted to two millions of dollars, 
yet the holders of the scrip have not, nor can any one 
tell when they will receive the JQst amounts of their 
funds. 

To give a correct idea as to how the government of Mex- 
ico pays the honourable demands against it, I will relate a 
case, the claimant in which, I was acquainted with, and 
from whom I had, from day to day, a history of the trans- 
actions as they happened. While in the city, there arrived 
an Irish gentleman, a Captain Coin, from the city of 
Dublin. He had, some two or three years previous, sold to 
the government of Mexico a steamer called the City of Dub- 
lin, for which he never received the pay agreeable to con- 
tract; consequently, he was under the necessity of visiting 
Mexico to recover the debt. On his arrival at Vera Cruz, 
he visited Santa Anna, who was then at Mango de Clavo, 
and obtained an order from him on Senor Don Trigueros, 
the Minister of Finance, payable on sight to Captain Coin 



jgg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

for the steamer. On the Captain's presenting the order to 
the honourable minister, he was informed by him that there 
was no money in the treasury ; but that he would give him, 
on his own account, fifty thousand dollars for his claim of 
sixty thousand eight hundred and fifty. Captain C. insisted 
on the payment of the full amount, and proposed to accept 
an order on the collector of the customs at Vera Cruz for 
the sum. This was refused, and the Captain was obliged 
to suffer himself to be shaved by the minister of the treasu- 
ry, or else wait for his money an interminable length of 
time. 

There are things of deformity in the church, as well as 
the state in this country ; carried on by bribery and corrup- 
tion. And here I would take occasion to remark, that it 
has not been my design to hunt up matter far fetched and 
unauthenticated, for the purpose of exasperating the public 
mind against a nation already rendered sufficiently odious, 
alike for the want of honour, and the perpetration of barbar- 
ous cruelties. My only intention is, to give a few promi- 
nent features of the daily practices of those in high as well 
as low places ; so that my readers may have some data by 
which to judge of the moral and political character of the 
Mexican people. Such an independent course, in my opi- 
nion, should be pursued by the journalist regardless of cri- 
ticism or the hope of flattery. Nothing I would so much 
regret, knowing as I do the faithlessness and dishonour of 
the Mexicans, as to delude a seeker for information in re- 
gard to the true character of a people, whose country per- * 
haps it may be his wish to visit or reside in. I shall, there- 
fore, not attempt to seek the praise or encomiums of any, 
by vouching for the virtue of the few, hard to find, or dread 
the contradictions and anathemas of those who have never 
had the experience of travel, or who may otherwise be lu- 
cratively interested. 

I therefore say, that there are Mammon discrepancies, in 
church as well as in state, emanating from the very throne 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jgg 

of their earthly divinity. The British government having 
neglected to insert an article in their treaty with Mexico, 
requiring of that government to make valid the marriages 
of British protestants performed in that country ; and also, 
to give power to her consuls to administer the matrimonial 
ceremony, — Englishmen are subject to the inconvenience 
and expense of visiting the city of Mexico, and thereby bri- 
bery to obtain the nuptial tie of the Archbishop ; the mar- 
riage being null and void otherwise, both by the religious 
canons and the laws of the land. Of what avail are the 
high fiats of heaven, or the positive statutes of a country, if 
money is to set aside the one, and cover the other? Verily, 
the god of Mammon is supreme over heaven and earth — the 
Dictator, too, perhaps. An instance of the above described 
state of things came under my own knowledge ; as the par- 
ties I became acquainted with, and a happy couple they 
were ; where it cost the gentleman two thousand dollars to 
illegally marry his wife. 



170 TRAVELS IN MEXICO . 



CHAPTER XI. 



Gratitude to T. Ducoine. Left the city of Mexico the 8th January. A Mexican passen- 
ger. Attempted conversation. Chocolate. Arrangements. My first day's journey. 
Extensive plain. Mountain scenery. Volcanic eruptions. Valleys divested of forest. 
The soil generally shallow. Tlie rocks. Haciendas. Stone walls. Orgono hedges. 
Fields without enclosure. The manure of a hacienda. Splendid scenery. No improved 
roads north. Natural ways. Mijico. Dined at Cula. Description of Dinner. Chille. 
My first night's lodging. When day dawned. Table land. Arroyo Zarco. The mo- 
ther of the driver. Fast driving. Ci'oss-bar broke. Ladrones. San Juan del Rio. 
Conversation and smoking of two Mexicans. View of Gueretero. Aqueduct. A priest 
and the revolution. A walk at night. Plaza lights. Lost. Guitar. Moonlight. 
Starting of the diligencia. Ladrones. Escape. Celaye. Monument. Mexicans dress- 
ed as Indians. The Pojie and the Catholic religion. Three Spaniards of old Spain. 
Language. Politeness. Landlord. Cotton goods. Third day's travel. Guanajuato. 
Darkness of the night. Dinner. Night's ramble in the street. , Visit to Mexican ladies. 
Conversation and entertainment. Departure from Guanajuato. Mines of Guanajuato. 
Magnificent present. Detection of fraud in the Mint. Level country. Siloa. Leon. 
Arrival at Lagos. Lake region. Loss of sleep. Settlements with my Mexican friend. 
Waked up alone. Chocolate. Letter of introduction. My difiiculty. Fruitless efforts 
to be understood. Fortunate arrival of a Mexican. Attention of the inhabitants. Doct. 
Tesus Anaya. Interpreter. A large party of travellers. A party of Americans. Ap- 
pearance of the travellers. Tyler's message to Congress. Manner of warfare upon Mex- 
ico. No want of water at Lagos. Vegetables and fruits. Bathing. Walk. Paintings 
of the houses. American negro. Practice of medicine in Mexico. Angel Gabriel. 
Simon's wounds. The evening of the second day. Arrival of the diligencia. An Ame- 
rican passenger. Proposed journey. 

I SHALL ever feel grateful to Mr. Theodore Ducoine, 
a native of Philadelphia, of the largest American house 
in the city of Mexico, for the assistance he rendered me in 
forwarding my departure from the capitol; which took 
place on the night of the 8th of January ; a day memorable 
in the history of my own country. 

I left the city of Mexico in the diligencia for Lagos, a 
distance of four days' and nights' travel. When I was 
awakened to take my seat, I found that there was one other 
passenger, and that the individual I was destined to travel 
with, was a Mexican, and had all the appearance of a gen- 
tleman. 

Having taken our seats, the Mexican saluted me by say- 
ing, " Bueno noiche Senor," Goodnight, Sir, — to which I res- 
ponded, " JVil gratias Senor" I thank you, Sir ; by which I 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



171 



presume my fellow passenger very naturally concluded, 
from my answering him so readily, that, although a foreign- 
er, I was familiar with the Spanish tongue. No sooner had 
we passed over the pavement of the city, than he began a 
conversation with me in his own language, to which I was 
obliged repeatedly to reply, JVb intendi, Senor, I do not un- 
derstand, Sir ; for I had not been long enough in the coun- 
try to have studied the Spanish ; and I could not consequent- 
ly undertake a conversation in that language. However, 
he seemed to persist in his loquaciousness, while the only 
defence I had, was to keep up a volley of English, which, 
for short periods, would attract the attention of the Mexi- 
can, as he did not understand a word I said. 

Having become fatigued in attempting to render himself 
agreeable to me by talking Spanish, he at* length in a most 
inquiring manner said — " Parlez vous Francais, Monsieur V 
— Do you speak French, sir ? to which I said, " No, Senor," 
which effectually silenced my talkative companion, who, 
apparently in despair, or disgust perhaps, wrapped himself 
up in his cloak, and my following his example, we thus, 
with our mutual thoughts locked up in our minds, played 
the dummy to each other until 10 o'clock the next morning 
— that proving to be the time of taking our chocolate. 

After taking some refreshment, the diligencia being ready 
for its departure, I offered the lady of the house some mo- 
ney for my repast — but she refused to take it, pointing to 
my Mexican friend, to whom I shook my head, to intimate 
that he was not to pay for me ; at the same time offering 
him money. This he refused, repeating often " Lagos," 
from which I inferred that he would settle my bills as far as 
that place, as I was unacquainted with the language of the 
country. Having no objections to such an arrangement, I 
also said Lagos, accompanying my repetition of the name 
by placing one dollar upon another, to inform him that I 
would settle with him at Lagos. Thus we travelled on with 



172 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



this understanding, which we amicably arranged at the end 
of our journey. 

My first day's journey to Lagos was more interesting to 
me than I had imagined it would be, as the face of the 
country presented a different aspect to that which I had al- 
ready seen. Between Vera Cruz and the city of Mexico, 
the mountains all run parallel with the Gulf, north and south. 
But as I had left the valley of Mexico, I found myself be- 
fore the break of day on an extensive plain, shut up on all 
sides by lofty mountains, which looked as if they would 
alike defy man or beast to pass their steep and rocky heights. 
Although these mountains presented a view, as if they were 
natural fortresses to imprison all within them, yet at some 
depression, or as it were gateway, they would offer egress 
for the traveller, and when passed would only present to the 
beholder the same plain, surrounded on all sides by a like 
vast amphitheatre of mountain scenery. 

The mountains in Mexico present an entire different ap- 
pearance from any other in North America ; for with very 
little exception they are uncovered with forest, and mostly 
without verdure of any kind ; saving the gray and green 
moss. The mountains in resemblance looked more like 
spued spiral earth of a frosty morning, but upon a more gi- 
gantic scale, than any other familiar object known to my 
mind ; having innumerable saw-tooth points and forms of 
peaks in every zig-zag direction. Indeed, such is the origin 
of their creation ; for not by cold had they been spouted 
upwards, but by fire ; and as the beholder casts his eyes up 
the giddy heights, and imagines the time when those volca- 
nic eruptions were in existence, they are almost deluded, 
and it seems as if nature is yet in ebullition, fearfully shoot- 
ing porphyritic rock high up to the heavens. 

All the valleys surrounded by the mountains as above de- 
scribed, from their being so thoroughly divested of forest 
growth, would appear, but that some of them are spotted 
with towns and the castles of haciendas, to be vast prairies. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 2iy3 

These plains are in fact the table lands proper, while the 
chains of mountains are the Cordilleras of Mexico. The 
plains have a fertile soil, but the Spaniards have applied the 
axe to every thing like brush-wood and forest trees. But 
although the soil is rich, it is most commonly of a blackish 
complexion, when not of a gravelly limestone gray appear- 
ance. It is generally shallow, and I could observe from the 
washed gullies that it was not more than from six to twen- 
ty-four inches in depth ; and it was not unfrequently the case 
that the rock protruded near the surface of the earth, and 
that where the land was the least rolling, it had been washed 
away, and left a barren level rock for many miles in extent. 
For those whose misfortune has never obliged them to tra- 
vel upon a plain of solid rock, it is not easy to imagine its 
disagreeableness ; the clatter of the unshod hoofs of the lit- 
tle animals, the lofty bounces and downward plunges of the 
diligencia, will never be forgotten by myself. The rock is 
not always of a solid body, for some plains have an appear- 
ance of the bed of a river, covered by quartz stone, such as 
is found at the bottom of most rivers in the United States, 
(and which is used for the paving of streets,) and indeed 
must have been the beds of immense lakes in by-gone 
limes. 

The lands, as before remarked, whether poor or rich, 
would produce admirably, which must be attributed to the 
climate, that is where they are capable of being irrigated. 
Some of the plains would be divided into two or more ha- 
ciendas, the larger one of which would be hemmed in by a 
stone wall of miles in extent — while occasionally a smaller 
farm might be met with, hedged in by the evergreen orgono, 
a variety of the species of prickly pear, and the maguey, 
which would be growing so thick upon the sides of ditches 
as to effectually obstruct the passage of any animal likely 
to be detrimental to crops. I could not altogether discover 
the utility of the stone fences, which in most instances must 
have cost years of labour, and much money, unless they 



JY4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

were designed for permanent landmarks, or costly orna- 
ments, for they enclosed mostly land that never had been, 
and never could be cultivated. 

Yet, on the contrary, it was not uncommon to see hun- 
dreds of acres of land growing in corn and wheat, having 
not a vestige of enclosure around them. Such fields are 
watched by the farmers to prevent the stock from feeding 
upon the crops ; and the Arieros take good care that their 
horses and mules do not diverge from the highway upon the 
farms. It was wonderful to see the Httle attention required 
to prevent the animals from going astray, and nipping down 
the tempting green corn ; exhibiting the fact that the brute 
creation can be taught honesty — why not the Mexicans ? 
One thing I must not forget to mention, which must excite 
the contempt of the American agriculturalist — the manure 
of a hacienda is never spread over the land, but in every 
instance is thrown out of the way in heaps, and when the 
winds and sun have sufficiently dried it, it is set on fire and 
suffered to consume. A gentleman once told me that he 
had seen a pile on fire for twelve months, the conflagration 
being very slow. 

The scenes as presented in the valleys are beautiful beyond 
description. The lava heights of those deep blue and brown 
peaked mountains, surrounding me on all sides, mantled by 
the azure sky, presented a majestic appearance, while the 
extended plains beneath wore a pleasing aspect. In such a 
view all my apprehensions of ladrones were forgotten, and 
the only thing which would occasionally recall me to the 
painful consciousness of my journey, was the violent con- 
cussion of the wheels of the diligencia against rocks, and a 
plunge in and over some deep furrow, worn perhaps by the 
attrition of ages, of animal's hoofs in the fields. There are 
no improved roads north of the city of Mexico, excepting 
just at the entrance of some of the larger towns. The 
whole plains are crossed and recrossed by thousands of 
paths, called natural ways, those of which are travelled by 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. ^75 

vehicles are such as have beenmost frequently beaten down, 
and are therefore the smoother and firmer. 

On my first day's journey, I passed the town of Mejico, 
a place of not much importance, and fast tumbling to de- 
cay. However, a considerable garrison of soldiers was sta- 
tioned there. We arrived at Cula about three o'clock, 
where my Mexican friend gave me to understand, much to 
my joy, that we were to dine ; for, after a night's travel, I 
had subsisted all of that day upon nothing but a cup of cho- 
colate. Dinner being ready, I sat down to a meal the like 
of which I had never before seen, for it was entirely Mexi- 
can, and not like the Casa de la Dihgencia hotels kept be- 
tween Vera Cruz and the capital, which were conducted by 
French landlords, the diet therefore partaking of both 
French and Mexican variety. 

Boiled rice was first served up, which being removed a 
stew was then introduced — of what kind of meat it was 
composed I was at a loss first to conjecture, but as my ap- 
petite had become in some degree satisfied, it partook more 
of the flavour of the goat than of mutton. There was also 
a bowl of chili on the table, which my friend intimated to 
me not to touch — but I had no idea of letting an opportuni- 
ty slip of tasting every food used by the Mexicans ; so I 
helped myself to a couple of spoonsfull of the stewed red pep- 
per, and having loalloped a piece of my meat in the chili, 
with the hope of taking the goat flavour from it, I then ap- 
plied it to my mouth. But a hard time I had of it, for my 
tongue felt as if it had been seared by a red hot iron, yet I 
continued to nibble and turn over the sauced meat from side 
to side, with the hopes of finally conquering the fiery por- 
tion, and of making a quick swallow of it ; as the tears 
trickled down my cheeks the diet refused to go to my sto- 
mach, and fell back again into my plate. 

My friend, convulsed with laughter, held his hand be- 
tween myself and the vessel of water, and shouted — Una ! 
bina! Not understanding what he meant, I began to think 



jYg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

that he intended to insult me, by eating of what he intended 
to be a private dish ; but I was not kept long in suspense, 
for a bottle of claret wine was introduced, and a Mexican 
girl popping the cork out in no time, filled a large glass and 
offered it to me to drink ; and as the astringent draught 
passed down my throat, I not only thought that it was the 
best wine I had ever drank, but felt as if a brand had been 
snatched from the eternal burning. I could eat no more, 
although I had a better appetite than when I first began ; 
and taking a glass of wine I left the table, leaving my friend 
in full possession and enjoyment of his chili sauce. 

My first night's lodging was in the castle of a hacienda, 
the name of which has escaped me now ; and having there 
enjoyed my meal without the use of chili, I slept until two 
o'clock, when the diligencia again commenced its journey. 
One thing I observed, and it is to be admired, that Santa 
Anna had not only, for the good order and government of 
his people, garrisoned with soldiers all the towns through 
which I passed, but the haciendas also, which was designed 
to keep his fickle fellow-citizens from rebellion, and to hold 
in awe the marauding banditti who infest the highways. 

When day dawned I still found myself upon the same 
table-land, and surrounded by the same mountain scenery 
as on the day previous. The plain of Gueretoro, over which 
I had that day to travel, was greater in circumference than 
either of the valleys I had left behind me, and possessed a 
more even surface, and generally better looking soil ; yet 
there was less cultivation, as I did not once see water until 
I arrived at Arroyo Zarco, where myself and friend sat 
down to a repast, which, whether denominated a breakfast 
or dinner, I cannot tell, as it was then past the meridian. 
However, I was more particular than on the day before, 
and, having better fare, I indulged freely upon boiled rice, 
broth, stews, tortillas, and frijoles, while my friend sharp- 
ened his appetite by mixing chili sauce with every thing 
he ate. Arroyo Zarco was of less elevation than any of 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



177 



the valleys I had passed, and yielded an abundance of deli- 
cious fruit ; and there, for the first time, I partook of seve- 
ral lemons, which were sweeter than any orange I had ever 
before tasted. 

Previous to our leaving Arroyo Zarco, the mother of the 
driver of the diligencia took a most affectionate leave of 
her son; and, while she embraced him, she implored all the 
saints to protect him harmless from the ladrones. All being 
seated, the driver cracked his whip, and his waiters letting 
go the lassos, with whoops and shrill whistles, the animals 
set off with furious speed, seeming as if they would break 
their necks, or else endeavour to break those of whom they 
were drawing. Our driver did not, for hill or gully, slack- 
en his speed ; but. Phaeton like, he hurled on, more regard- 
less of consequences than any other Mexican driver I had 
travelled with. His animals at length, in an exhausted con- 
dition, arrived at the rancho, where there was to be a 
change, and from the severe jolting I had received during 
the last ten miles, I determined to get out of the diligencia 
to relieve my limbs ; my Mexican friend followed my ex- 
ample. When I had descended, I discovered the driver 
exerting an unusual haste to put into gear the second team, 
and I noticed that he often raised his head, and cast a lin- 
gering look to the rear as if expecting the approach of 
some one. 

The team being harnessed, the driver asked us to take 
our seats, and, with all the usual noise on such occasions, 
the animals, on the onset, plunged so vigorously forward 
that, without having moved the diligencia but a few feet, 
the crosS'bar in front of the tongue snapped in twain, by 
which accident, not being furnished with another, we were 
subject to a delay until the broken bar was repaired. 

1 took this opportunity of descending to the ground, and 

the first thing that attracted my attention was the driver 

looking to the rear as before ; I determined also to keep 

my eyes turned in that direction. It was not long before I 

12 



Jij-g TR A VELS IN MEXICO. 

espied six men, well mounted, making for us with full speed. 
My friend shook his head, and the driver went sluggishly to 
work to mend the cross-bar. Three of the men dismounted 
close by ; the other three rode directly up to us, one of them 
stopping close by my side. 

It was not difficult for me to understand who these men 
were, and I was not unprepared to meet the emergency ; 
for in each of my breeches pockets was a six-barrel pistol, 
and to my side a good Bowie knife. I kept my hands upon 
my pistols, determined not to commence self-defence too 
soon, but w^ith a watchful eye take advantage of the first 
move of the ladrones. The chief, as I presumed him to 
be, of this banditti, commenced a conversation with my 
friend, while the remaining five had, in the mean time, sur- 
rounded myself. The conversation, I could discover, was 
all appertaining to me, and while thus in suspense I resolved 
to disencumber myself from my guard, and accordingly 
stepped forward from them ; but they followed, and my 
friend shook his head at me. The driver had for some 
time finished his repairs, and was waiting the issue of what 
might happen. They returned, and myself and friend again 
took our seats, and the diligencia went ahead. When we 
arrived at Gueretaro the Mexican gentleman informed me, 
through an American we met there, that what had prevent- 
ed our being plundered was, that he assured the ladrones 
that we had no money, more than would pay our expenses 
to Lagos, an4 that as I was a foreigner, and had two six- 
barrel pistols, they would have to hazard too much for the 
httle they would gain. 

In the evening we passed San Juan del Rio, where our 
company was increased by another Mexican taking passage 
with us. Our new companion was of genteel appearance, 
and I felt myself sufficiently entertained for the balance of 
the journey to Gueretaro, by listening to the discourse of 
the two countrymen, and the continued exchange of polite- 
ness between them ; first one and then the other pulling out 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



179 



their little bundles of cigaritos, and circling the smoke 
through their nostrils ; and at times so voluminous v^'ere the 
clouds, that the diligencia reminded me of an old Virginia 
smoke-house in the pork season. 

By the setting of the sun we arrived in view of Guere- 
taro, a beautiful town, situated in a ravine near a mountain. 
The valley of Gueretaro was what the Mexicans called a hot 
country, and it was therefore with much delight that I beheld 
there the orange, and other fruit-trees, in bearing. The city 
of Gueretaro contains about ten thousand inhabitants, and 
is one of the best improved places I saw in the Republic. The 
well-finished aqueduct from the mountain to the city is sup- 
ported on arches, and painted red ; and as it stretches over 
the green valley it has an elegant appearance. Gueretaro 
is a cotton-manufacturing city. One of the factories is 
owned by a Mr. M'Cormick, an enterprising American gen- 
tleman. 

Gueretaro is famed for its revolutionary efforts : it is 
related that the revolution commenced at that place by a 
conspiracy formed by a priest ; but a few days before it 
was to have been consummated one of the party, Avho was 
possessed of the secret, having been arrested for a crime 
for which he was to suffer death, fell upon his knees before 
the prefect, and made declaration that if the judge would 
spare his life he would divulge the secrets of a conspiracy, 
of which he was an accomplice, which confession would 
save the Spaniards from otherwise inevitable destruction. 

The prefect, having consented to the reprieve of the cri- 
minal upon these conditions, was informed by him of the 
insurrectionary designs of the Mexicans of that city. But 
the priest having in time the exposure of the plot commu- 
nicated to him, hastily summoned all the bell-ringers of the 
city at his house, where he invited them to drink wine. The 
men having become intoxicated, he then directed them to 
go to their churches, and ring all the bells, and proclaim 



jgQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

revolution and death to the Spaniards. The stratagem suc- 
ceeded, and before sun- set on that day, all the Spaniards, 
who had not secreted themselves, were barbarously slaugh- 
tered, and the warrior-priest proclaimed general of the re- 
bellious forces. 

After myself and friend had taken some refreshment, he 
invited me to take a walk, and, although it was night, we 
went over a good part of the town. The most of the peo- 
ple whom we met were either soldiers or priests. The plaza 
was an interesting scene ; at least an hundred torches were 
blazing at once, sending up their light ; while some of the 
people were retailing their goods, seated under their expan- 
sive parasols, other buyers and sellers would be seen 
standing in groups around piles of fruits, as the musical 
rippling of the water, spouting high in 'the air from the 
fountains around the plaza, glanced back the beacon lights. 
Having been satisfied with our stroll, we attempted to find 
our way back to the Casa de la Diligencia, but failed ; and, 
after following my friend through several streets without 
success, we again returned to the plaza, where he inquired 
for the direction, by which we reached our hotel. 

On arriving at our room my friend appeared to be in ec- 
stasies at hearing a guitar played in the house, and he did 
not seem contented until he had obtained the loan of it, and 
the instrument was being strummed upon by his own fin- 
gers. He was an excellent performer, and, whether it was 
from the music of the guitar and his voice, or in conse- 
quence of my fatigue, I fell asleep, and did not awaken un- 
til the diligencia was ready to depart, between two and 
three o'clock in the morning. 

No other seats were taken besides those of myself and 
my friend to my right hand. At that still hour of the night, 
when nothing could be seen by the bright moonlight but the 
heavy walls of the houses, it did appear, when the diligen- 
cia started, by the usual shouts of the drivers, and the 
thundering noise of the wheels over the pavements, that 



# 



• TRAVELS IN MEXICO. JgJ 

soldiers and citizens must have been waked from their 
slumbers. 

Onwards we hurled for about three squares, when we 
made a sudden turn round a corner, at which I perceived 
men dressed in serapes, stationed along the sidewalk of the 
street ; and as the driver passed each one he was comman- 
dingly hailed. He did not heed them however, and crack- 
ing his whip urged the speed of the animals ; but it seemed 
that the last man of the party did not intend that the driver 
should escape him, for he raised and pointed a carbine of 
some sort, vociferously calling to the coche, driver ; the poor 
man was obliged to draw in his reins, and, as six individu- 
als were approaching, the head of the party had the temer- 
ity to put his foot on the step of the diligencia. While in 
the act of thrusting his head through the window, I thought 
of my six barrels, and as the ladrone showed his face, it 
was at the muzzle of my pistol, which he had no sooner 
seen than he stepped back and inquired if that was the Mex- 
ico diligencia 1 and the driver answering him that it was 
the Guanajuato, we were permitted to go on. For the re- 
mainder of that night, with apprehensions of ladrones, I 
rode with my hands on my pistols, for I felt determined to 
fight, no sooner than I should hear the dreadful command 
of " boca baje," as it is called in Mexico. 

During that day's travel we passed the town of Calaya, 
a beautiful and well-improved place. The public houses 
were large, and built of hammered stone. I observed a 
handsome monument, surmounted with the Goddess of 
Liberty, which would reflect credit I thought upon the ar- 
tist. It seemed, from the crowds of people I saw in the 
streets and plaza, that it was a feast-day at Calaya, and as 
I left the city I was convinced of the fact ; for, as the dili- 
gencia passed over the bridge near the town, I discovered 
a large body of Mexicans, dressed as Indians, dancing be- 
fore a saint, on an altar thickly adorned with flowers, and I 
had an opportunity of witnessing a ceremony of Indian rites 



J32 TKAVELS IN MEXICO. 

as incorporated in the Roman Catholic religion of Mexico, 
I was impressed with the opinion that if Saint Paul could 
have beheld the barbarous show, he would have blushed for 
the name of the Christian religion; and I am astonished that 
in this enlightened day of the church, pious priests do not 
petition the Pope to purge the Catholic religion in Mexico 
of heathen and heretical doctrines and festivities. 

At Calaya, myself and friend had added to our company 
three Spaniards of old Spain, who were most gentlemanly 
in their manners. Understanding that I neither spoke Spa- 
nish nor French, they used every effort to render themselves 
agreeable to me — and I would remark that, although indi- 
viduals may not understand each other's tongue, yet the lan- 
guage of politeness is the same all over the world, and the 
numberless civilities that may be extended from one to an- 
other, are very congenial to the feelings of both. , 

Our first stage was from Calaya to Salamanca, v«^here we 
took refreshments, my Spanish friends vieing with one an- 
other in attending to my wants. Salamanca is a manufac- 
turing town, their cotton mills being propelled by animal 
power. The landlord of the Casa de la Diligencia amused 
me much by the antics he played with a piece of cotton 
cloth ; he came running into the presence of the passengers 
with it, and, while my Mexican and Spanish friends were 
crowding around him to get a look at the cloth, he shoved 
them all aside, and with a triumphant air threw an end of 
the cotton goods on my knee, with the air of a factor or 
merchant. I examined the goods, and then looking the 
landlord in the face said, hueno, (good,) at which the old 
man clapped his hands, and patted my shoulders with re- 
joicings, until I was tired of it. However I felt desirous of 
knowing what such cotton cloth would bring at the factory, 
and I said to mine host, quantum, (how much ;) he replied, 
trece rial, (thirty-seven and a half cents;) and I am confi- 
dent that such goods could be imported into Mexico and re- 
tailed there at twelve and a half cents. So much for pro- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



183 



tection ; and this too in a country every foot of which could 
grow cotton. 

From Salamanca I passed Yrapoato, a town that excels 
the former in external appearance. My third day's travel 
was rendered more agreeable to me by the better condition 
of the ways, and the addition of companions. Not long 
after the hour of night, by the assistance of a torch-light, 
held by the waiter of the driver, the diligencia descended a 
long and steep hill, and having reached the bottom of a deep 
ravine, was brought to a halt before cross-bars that stopped the 
highway. These having been removed by a custom-house 
officer, we were permitted to pass up a long and toilsome 
gorge in the mountain, on the left hand side of which was 
a continued row of large buildings, haciendas beneficio 
mineral, (mineral factories,) for the grinding and smelting of 
silver and gold ores. In about an hour we were at the town 
of Guanajuato, which, although a place of much importance 
in Mexico, and containing a large population, I did not get a 
satisfactory view of, owing to the darkness of the night. 

Dinner being over, for by that time I had learned that 
passengers on that route did not dine until night, my young 
Mexican friend, who had been remarkably polite and atten- 
tive to me during all of our journey, drew on his cloak, and 
pointing to my own for me to do hkewise, he touched me 
on the shoulder as a sign to follow him. Withoui knowing 
what he intended I readily obeyed, and shortly afterwards 
we had entered the street, and were crossing the plaza. My 
companion in a gay manner said," Bueno notche,''^ " Adios," 
which I repeated after him, for in that manner he had dili- 
gently employed himself in endeavouring, during all our 
journey, to teach me the Spanish language ; but, having 
called over the above words, he quickened his step, and 
leaving the plaza we entered a dark street. I must confess 
I felt confounded, in trying to understand what object he 
had in bringing mc into a street which was totally unillumi- 
nated, at that hour of the night, for the words I had as cus- 



|g4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

tomary repeated after him, meant " good night," " adieu." 
I therefore thought it most singular that my Mexican friend 
should have taken me" into the dark to take leave of me ; 
unless there was some unknown mystery to accompany it, 
and I kept myself prepared to meet the worst. 

Our direction was a crooked one, for we had already 
turned several corners. It was not long, however, before I 
was somewhat relieved of my apprehensions, by his saying 
again, for me to repeat, the words, " Senor, Sefiorita, Serio- 
res" — the word Senorita he caused me to repeat three times 
over, and then knocked loudly at a great door of a house 
before which we were standing. In about ten minutes' time 
a light was held out of an upper window, to the great joy 
of my friend, who exhibited much impatience ; the Hght de- 
scended to the inner court, and a door large enough for a 
fortress was opened. I followed the young Mexican up a 
large flight of stone steps upon the corridor, from which we 
were conducted by a servant into a large and well-furnished 
drawing-room, and having seated ourselves my companion 
appeared delighted, and pointed to the elegantly polished, 
marble-coloured, painted floor, the silver chandelier and 
candlesticks, the silver ornamented chairs, the piano and 
guitar. 

It was not long before the climax of his pleasure was 
complete, by the entering of a most graceful and lovely 
young lady. LFpon her appearance we rose from our seats, 
and as she gently paused in the centre of the room my 
friend introduced me to her ; what he said I know not, but 
I found use for the lessons I had received in the streets, and 
at the door, by saying, when bowing, " Bueno notche, Se- 
norita." 

After some conversation had passed, my friend turned to 
me, and in English, which I had taught him, inquiringly 
said, " Good ?" at which I gave him to understand, " Esta 
bueno," (very good.) The young lady seemed pleased with 
the society of her friend, but I often detected her curiously 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jgg 

eyeing my own features and person ; and from the gestures 
and declamations of the two, I could plainly percieve that 
much of their conversation was respecting myself. 

To my agreeable entertainment, another young lady en- 
tered the apartment, to whom I was also introduced, and it 
was not long before a third appeared, and all having become 
seated and tranquillity restored, my friend turned again to 
me, and in his manner inquired if the ladies were " Good." 
To which he did not seem satisfied with my general assent 
to his interrogation, but wished me to particularize which 
was the best; and accordingly, thus understanding him, I 
rose from my chair, and crossing the room took my seat by 
one of the three, at the same time declining the Latin de- 
grees of comparison, " Bonus, major, maximus,^^ which ap- 
peared to divert and please the whole party. It was not 
long before the lovely selection I had made and myself were 
left alone, by the others retiring to the opposite side of the 
room ; and thus singularly she entertained me by performing 
on the guitar, accompanying it with the soft music of her 
melodious voice, and by a game of backgammon. By the 
aid of my conversation book, which I found useful, she 
made many inquiries of me about my country, and discov- 
ering that she seemed to be much pleased with my imper- 
fect answers, I asked her if she would like to visit the Uni- 
ted States ? to which she replied, " That she would be hap- 
py to do so, if she had an American for her protector." My 
stay at the hospitable house of the three lovely sisters was 
interrupted by my friend informing me that the hour had 
arrived for the departure of the diligencia, and we both, no 
doubt with much reluctance, took our affectionate leave of 
the accomplished and beautiful trio. 

Upon our arrival at the hotel, we had only to take our 
seats, for the vehicle was making ready to depart. The 
diligencia, in leaving Guanajuato, had to descend again the 
same deep glen by which we had entered the town, as 
that was the only ingress and egress to and from the place. 



Igg: TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

Guanajuato is celebrated for its great productions of silver. 
The mines are more famed for the larger abundance of gold 
contained in the silver ores, than those of any other in the 
Republic. 

When the precious metals were first discovered on the 
mountain of Guanajuato, the happy individual who was the 
proprietor, determined that a beneficent donation should be 
the first act to grace his good fortune. Accordingly he 
built a frigate of the first class, and M'hen it was completed, 
armed, manned and rigged, he sent it to Spain, where he 
made it a present to the king : for this generosity his sove- 
reign honoured him with the noble title of marquis. 

The mines of Guanajuato are not now so extensively 
worked as in former times, and, in natural consequence, the 
yield is not so much as it has been ; however, they are con- 
sidered to produce, annually, about one million of dollars. 
They are believed, from the extent of their operations, to 
be as rich, and perhaps more so than any others in Mexico. 
But a short time before my arrival there, a system had been 
discovered by which a large amount of money had been 
robbed from the mint. 

It appeared that, as I was informed, the government sus- 
pected that too much alloy was mixed with the pure metal, 
and it ordered that the coined dollars should be assayed. 
The result of a chemical experiment proved the conjecture 
correct, and by the watchfulness of the officers the thieves 
were detected. The plan by which the money had been 
abstracted was this : the individual, whose duty it was to 
examine the money as it received the stamp, would deposit 
in his own pocket a given number of dollars, the amount of 
which he would communicate to another workman, whose 
business it was to melt up such coin as had not received a 
good impression ; thus the smelter would add to the silver 
in the crucible as many copper imitation dollars as the ex- 
aminer had stolen, and by these means the bulhon and the 
coin would not lose in weiorht. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jg-jr 

My day's journey from Guanajuato promised to he a de- 
lightful one ; for it proved that, as day dawned, as far as the 
eye could extend the road was good. During that day we 
passed several good-looking towns, and in particular that 
of Silao, a well-built place, containing about four thousand 
inhabitants. At Silao I noticed an extensive and elegant 
stone house, which looked as if it might have been a Jesuit 
building ; and, from the use to which it was appropriated, T 
had no doubt of the correctness of my conjecture ; for such 
edifices were occupied by soldiers as a garrison. The 
horses of the diligencia were exchanged here, and were 
better looking animals than any I had seen on the road. 
We passed on that day also the town of Leon, a place after 
the Spanish order, and of imposing appearance, having 
several large and very handsome churches. Here we took 
breakfast, and, while the driver was changing his team, I 
took a short stroll through the town, and was much pleased 
with the neatness and cleanliness of it. 

It was after dark when I arrived at Lagos. This town, 
though situated on the largest river I had seen in Mexico, 
takes its name from being in a lake region. On the tops of 
the high hills, which are only the depressions of the moun- 
tains south of Lagos, are many lakes, one of which, an ar- 
tificial one, I passed : it was two miles or more in extent. 
Lagos is in a warmer country than the valley through which 
I had just passed. 

Much fatigued from the loss of sleep, and the exercise 
I experienced in my journey of four hundred miles, as soon 
as I had partaken of some dinner, and settled with my Mex- 
ican friend, who had been so politely paying my bills on the 
way, I retired to my room, and went to bed. Some might 
feel curious to know how myself and friend came to an un- 
derstanding ; and, for their information, I will say that, in 
the first place, I drew from my pocket a handful of dollars 
and small change, and laid it in a heap on the table at which 
we were sitting. He then called the name of the first place 



]88 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

at which we stopped, taking from my pile as much as he 
had payed for me there, and so on, naming each, until our 
arrival at Lagos. When he had finished, his amount of 
money was as large as my own. Before putting it in his 
purse, he looked inquiringly at me and said, "Good?" and 
obtaining my assent, " Esta bueno," and " Mil gracias" — 
very good, I thank you a thousand times— he hid the cash 
for ever from my sight. 

On the following morning I awoke and found myself en- 
tirely alone ; for my Mexican friend had, during the night, 
taken the diligencia for Guadalajara. After dressing my- 
self, my first business was to write in my journal, but I had 
not long been employed thus when I was interrupted by a 
servant-girl entering with chocolate, which is always taken 
in Mexico some hours before breakfast. After taking this 
beverage I determined to deliver a letter of business and 
introduction, which had been politely handed me by the 
keeper of the diligencia office in the city of Mexico, to be 
presented to the keeper of the same at Lagos. I was in- 
formed that I would find him to be a Frenchman, and that 
he could speak the English language. Upon my going to 
the office it so happened, that the first individual to whom I 
showed my letter was the gentleman to whom it was di- 
rected ; but lo and behold ! although he could parlez Fran- 
cais, and hahia the Spanish, as gaily as a mocking-bird, yet 
he could not say a word of English. I felt desperate, and 
endeavoured to get him to pronounce but one word of my 
mother-tongue ; but upon every occasion he charged at me 
with both French and Spanish, to my entire discomfiture. 
It was a drawn battle, and we both recoiled backwards and 
took a good look at each other. 

My surprise can hardly be imagined when I discovered 
my condition ; and my confusion on that occasion can only 
be known to those who have been placed in a similar situa- 
tion. I found myself in the very heart and centre of a fo- 
reign country, and in a town where I was a total stranger, 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jgg 

unable to speak a single sentence of the language of the 
people by whom I was surrounded. I shall for ever pity 
the individual who is so positioned that he cannot either un- 
derstand or be understood, as I was in this instance, with- 
out an apparent remedy. 

My letter to the Frenchman informed him that I would 
prefer to continue my journey to Zacatecas by the diligen- 
cia, if there should be any running to that place ; and, if 
not, I would take a caritalia, a Spanish carriage, or ser- 
vants and animals, as he might advise. In business transac- 
tions of the kind, where three points are to be discussed, of 
so much importance to me, it was necessary that there 
should be an explicit determination as to what should be 
done. I returned to my room for my book of dialogues, 
and hoped that by its aid each of us could come to an un- 
derstanding ; but, unfortunately, the book failed to answer 
my purpose. It was but a very imperfect compendium. I 
have no hesitation in saying, that it would have amused any 
person in the world to have witnessed our distress, in the 
fruitless efforts we made in looking for sentences to suit our 
purposes, and our endeavour to select and write down 
words to express our thoughts. 

In despair the book was closed, and we were again 
put to the stand. In this dilemma a Mexican fortunately 
came into the room, and I soon perceived, from the bright- 
ened countenance of the Frenchman, that something pleas- 
ing was about to happen, and in a short time he beckoned 
me to follow him. 

While passing through the streets, my mind confused by 
the disagreeable condition in which I was placed, I could 
only feel vexed at the unintentional attention I attracted 
from the inhabitants ; and often did I hear repeated, as I 
walked, the names. Ingles, Americano. I had been advised 
to make myself as little conspicuous as possible, and to 
proceed hastily with my journey, so as to escape notice. I 
thought too of the declarations of many persons, with whom 



IQQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

I had formed an acquaintance in the city of Mexico, that 
no one had ever straight forward performed the journey I 
was making, unless at the head of an army, or connected 
with a powerful band of travellers : no one with whom I 
conversed but who discouraged and dissuaded me from my 
undertaking. And although my thoughts reverted to Old 
Virginia, there was yet no retreat left for me, and I was 
resolved to go on to death or to victory. 

The Frenchman at length entered a large door way, and 
I followed him up the steps to the corridor. We were 
then met by a stout, likely looking Mexican, who was intro- 
duced to me as Doctor Tesus Anaya. The doctor could 
" speak English leetle," he said, by his having once visited 
New Orleans. I explained to him that I wished to take a 
caritaha to Zacatecas. The Frenchman assured me that 
my necessity should be supplied in two days' time, and al- 
though I was subject to so long a delay, I felt rejoiced that 
I was enabled to express the particulars of my wants. 
Having returned many thanks to the doctor for the trouble 
he had been put to on my account, I retired to my lodgings, 
determined to employ my time in writing in my journal 

I was engaged uninterruptedly in writing until evening, 
when my attention was aroused by the tread of many horses 
passing over the pavement, and stepping quick to the win- 
dow, expecting to behold a military troop on its march ; I 
perceived that it was only a large party of travellers. How- 
ever, in a short time my attentive friend, the Frenchman, 
came running into my room, repeatedly saying Americana! 
Americana ! — I immediately took my hat and accompanied 
mine host to the Mason, where the travellers had put up. 
Upon my approaching them they indeed proved to be a 
party of Americans, and seemed glad in that distant region, 
to meet with a fellow countryman. They consisted of 
twelve in number, of whom three were ladies, all from New 
England, and in the employment and under the protection 
of a Mr. Peck, who was on his way to San Bias, upon the 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



191 

Pacific ocean, to establish a cotton manufactory. Thus it 
is perceived that the enterprising Yankee regards not space, 
clime, or tongue, so that he can indulge in his hope of mak- 
ing money, and I really was reminded of a St. Domingo po- 
litician's declaration, that if a bag of coffee should be hung 
in hell, a Yankee would go after it. Besides the Ameri- 
cans, there were eight Mexicans in the party. 

Mr. Peck informed me that all of his company had been 
sick, on their way from Tampico to Lagos, being afflicted 
with intermittent and ague fevers; and notwithstanding 
that one of them had been left behind, yet he then consider- 
ed them all in good health. Their indispositions were, no 
doubt, contracted while at Tampico, and on their way 
through the low lands of the gulf coast. 

The sight of these American travellers would have been 
a scene of much curiosity, to any of the honest and peace- 
ful citizens of the United States. They were all, men and 
women, bag and baggage, equipped precisely as the natives 
are, when on a journey from home. And indeed it is the 
only way that any one can hope to travel with any degree 
of comfort and safety. Each man was mounted on a good 
horse and Spanish saddle. Each saddle had holsters, and 
two good pistols in them, and to the left of each saddle was 
attached a long straight Toledo blade. Each rider carried 
a double barrelled gun before him, strapped to the horn of 
the saddle. The order in which the whole party moved 
was double file. The ladies were protected by being posi- 
tioned in the centre of the line of their countrymen. When 
all were mounted and on their march, they had a singular 
appearance, being neither civil nor military, civilized nor 
savage, but in reality, partaking of something of all those 
aspects of mankind. 

Mr. Peck informed me that he had anticipated some dif- 
ficulty on his way to San Bias, as he had been inform- 
ed at Tampico that Gen. Tliompson had demanded his 
passport, and in fact had left the city of Mexico, in con- 



jg2 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

sequence of the order of the government of Mexico, ex- 
pelling American citizens from the Californias. But it 
afforded me much pleasure at the same time to communi- 
cate to Mr. Peck, that just six days previous, Gen. Thomp- 
son had assured me that there did not exist any difficulty 
between the two countries. I also had the happiness to say 
to Mr. Peck, and all of the party, that Gen. Thompson had 
favoured me with the reading of President Tyler's message 
to Congress, and it seemed to please them much, when I 
alluded to the strong terms in which Mr. Tyler handled the 
question of the barbarous war between Texas and Mexico. 
As for myself I am satisfied, that if the American people 
generally were convinced of the injustice done by Mexico 
to American citizens and American commerce, they would 
instantly make that country act justly and honestly in her 
ports, and towards American citizens, whose enterprise has 
induced them to enter the interior of that country. 

I have heard it said, that the United States should block- 
ade all the ports of Mexico, and shut her commerce out from 
the world. I am opposed to that, for it would be doing what 
Mexico would delight in ; for if the trade of the world was 
cut off from her, her manufactories would then have it in 
their power to impose upon her people without measure. 
Mexico has but little to export, saving her silver and gold, 
and that she is desirous to retain ; therefore she would be 
rejoiced if the United States would blockade her ports, so 
that the English companies could not export the products of 
their labour from the country. I am of the opinion, that 
whenever she undertakes to chastise her neighbour, she 
should send an army to the northern departments of Mex- 
ico, which would no sooner be done, than the whole north 
would throw itself under the protection of the United States, 
and petition to become admitted into the Union. 

I was much pleased with all I saw at Lagos. The town 
being situated immediately on a river, there was no want 
of water. There are two mills here for the grinding of 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jno 

wheat, the only ones I saw in any town in Mexico. They 
are of ancient structure and built of stone. The water was 
conducted to them by canals from the river, and fell upon 
tub wheels within the mills. From the abundance of water, 
vegetation flourishes at Lagos, and many fruits can be had 
at all seasons of the year at that place. 

The people at Lagos appeared to delight more in the cul- 
tivation of gardens, than those of any town through which 
I had passed ; and while their vegetables were abundant, 
they were more excellent than any others which I had 
tasted, more especially the article of lettuce, which was of 
large growth and very brittle, not partaking of the tough- 
ness and bitterness of that produced in the Union. The in- 
habitants seemed to be quite fond of this vegetable, as they 
made the principal portion of their meals of it ; and I often 
noticed individuals with a bunch of lettuce in their hands, 
walking the streets, eating it as they went along. 

The Mexicans are as fond of bathing in water as are the 
Spanish poodles. Mine host, the Frenchman, invited me to 
a walk with him, and whenever I was in sight of the river, 
or the canal of the mills, I could behold men, women and 
children floundering in the water ; indeed, I passed near a 
woman who was sitting upon the side of the canal, whose 
head and shoulders, streaming with her long hair, looked 
like a sack of white wool, from the vast amount of soap- 
suds with which she was covered. Such are the scenes 
forever to be witnessed, wherever the traveller comes to 
water. Soap and water are the best and surest remedies 
in a hot climate for removing vermin and filth. During my 
walk with the Frenchman I admired much the extraordi- 
nary taste, exhibited by the people of that place, in attempt- 
ing to give some gay appearance to the outside show of 
their houses. 

The houses upon the street wall were painted precisely 
as were their rooms, by representations of vineyards, gar- 
dens, and landscape views, with flowers and varieties of 
13 



194 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



shrubbery, and for that climate the style was not, in my 
opinion, inappropriate ; besides, the eye of the citizen was 
relieved from the otherwise dull and prison-like appearance 
of the houses. In no other town, during all my travels in 
Mexico, did I witness houses similarly painted. 

On my return from walking, I found an American negro 
at the Casa de la Diligencia waiting to see me ; he was the 
only black man I had beheld since my departure from Vera 
Cruz. He told me that his name was Simon, and that he 
was a native of Louisiana ; this I had no doubt of, as his 
English was very broken, like that of a Frenchman. Simon 
said that an Italian had taught him how to grind the organ, 
and that he was travelling through Mexico with that instru- 
ment, at which business he would do well, were it not for 
the ladrones, who never failed to secure all of his profits. 

Simon informed me that he had been detained at that 
place by sickness, and was under the care of S'r. Doct. 
Tesus Anaya. I inquired what the doctor prescribed for 
him, and he replied, that he was directed first to bathe 
seven times, and that afterwards he gave him some roots, 
of which he made teas to drink, but found himself no better: 
his cough was a violent one. And here I would remark, 
that to practice medicine in Mexico, the doctor, to be suc- 
cessful, must first minister to the superstition of his patient. 
Nothing is more common among the native physicians, 
when called to visit the sick, than to direct that the invalid 
should be bathed an odd number of times, (no matter how 
many, so that the number is odd,) previous to taking any 
medicine. The last and odd bath is supposed almost to 
produce the cure, which only requires the use of a little 
physic. 

The physician has always to make good his fee before 
he commences the healing art, or otherwise he will receive 
nothing. The Mexican, on being confined by indisposi- 
tion, hangs the picture of the angel Gabriel at the head of 
his bed, and during all the time of sickness, he is praying 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jgg 

to the saint. If he recovers, he attributes the cure to the 
direct interposition of Gabriel, and with much sanctity- 
makes a present to the priest, — leaving the doctor unpaid, 
unless the wily physician has received his pay in advance. 
Doctors do not prosper well in Mexico, excepting in the 
large cities ; first, because of the superstition of the people, 
and next, for the reason of the great good health of the table 
lands. 

Simon was desirous that I should employ him as a ser- 
vant, but not liking the cast of his physiognomy, and not 
wishing to be troubled with the music of his organ, as his 
speaking English was no inducement, I determined to de- 
cline the proposition. To convince me of his bravery, he 
show^ed his wounds received in hard-fought battles, and re- 
lated the history of the murder of a party of Americans, to 
whom he was a servant ; but these were also reasons why 
he would not suit me, for I did not know but that he might 
have been an accompUce in such horrid transactions, and 
as much of a robber as any of the Mexicans. 

On the evening of the second day the diligencia was to 
arrive from the city of Mexico. I felt much gratified on 
its arriving at the ofiice, at perceiving that the only passen- 
ger in it was either an European or an American; and 
much to my joy he afterwards proved to be a citizen of the 
United States, although for a long time a resident in Mex- 
ico. His name I must be excused from giving, as the rea- 
sons may hereafter prove obvious. 

The American was good looking, and as intelligent a 
gentleman as I had ever met with. His journey was in the 
same direction as my own, at least as far as Zacatecas. I 
informed him of the arrangement made for me by the polite 
Frenchman at whose house we were, and proposed that 
he should share the accommodation. He gladly embrac- 
ed the oflfer, and expressed much gratification at his good 
fortune of having it in his power to travel with a fellow- 
countryman. 



jgg TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 



CHAPTER XII. 

Departure from Lagos, Chocolate, cup.*, knives and forks. An Ameriean for my 
companion. The new plain sailed La Villila. The polite Fvenehinan. The plain 
of La Villita. Having arrived at La Villita. In towns in Mexico. Publie houses 
called Marons. Furniture. Spanish Caritalia. My misfotrune. Hire a bed for the . 
night. Fondi. Cook-shop. The rent of the voom. La Villita. Depanare. Koads, 
bridges and ways. Wheeled Vehicles. Ancient customs. The hacienda Pennoeles. 
The extensive fields. An artificial lake. Arguas Calientas, Palace of the CondeGuad- 
aloupe. We were foreign padres. Extravagant charges. Italian Opera company. The 
city of Arguas Calientas. Clmrchts, jn-ieats, and soldiers. The ease of the white Jack 
and the people. Decision of tlie Judge. Ameriean wagons. Pleasing sight. The 
difference between Mexican and American wagons. The Moors who invaded Spain. 
Our day's journey. Cast, wind. The skin. Bispky of badges. Our ride for the most 
of the day. Corn-field. At San Jacinto. The Indians. The body-guard. Garrisoiw 
of disciplined regulars. Conjectures of the people. Volunteers of the Army. Her Bvi- 
tanic Majesty conquering Mexico. Servants sleeping on the hard, cold pavement. The 
American servants. Ren>arks to the Secretai-y of Ameriean Legation. Hot sun. South- 
west winds. Dishonest and barbarous hahnts. The mm-e polished circles. Swindlei's, 
thieves and mui-derers. John Randolph. Gentlemen of character above suspicion. 

On the morning of the 16th instant, the American and 
myself departed from Lagos. The carretilla in which we 
were seated, was obtained from a priest, upon the reasona- 
ble terms of sixty dollars for the journey. Our equipment 
consisted of one armed out-rider and a postillion, to the ad- 
miration of the good people of Lagos. 

From the long residence of the American in Mexico, I 
was better provided to meet all the exigencies of my jour- 
ney than I otherwise should have been ; for although I had 
learned much, as to the inconveniences of travelling in 
Mexico, yet more I had to glean at every progress and each 
change I should make. My new friend had provided us 
with chocolate, cups, sweet bread, and spoons, with knives 
and forks, articles which never would have occurred to me 
to be necessary in my travels. 

With an American for my companion, my ride promised 
to be a pleasing one. The day was warm, but tempered 
and rendered delightful by the winds continually blowing 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jg^ 

fresh from the south-west. It was not long after we had 
commenced our journey, before we passed the pleasant val- 
ley of Lagos, by the difficult crossing of a mountain. The 
pleasing prospect of the new plain presented to our view 
La Villita. 

But the chief luxury we enjoyed, was travelling over a 
smooth surface, mounted in state as we were in the priest's 
coach, attracting the attention of all the country folks as we 
journeyed along, for they knew the vehicle, and no doubt 
imagined that the holy father was seated within, and from 
this cause alone we had to attribute the marked attention 
shown to us on that day- 
It was a device of mine host, the polite Frenchman, for 
he said that he could insure me my safety in the well 
known carretilla, for the Mexicans would sooner eat off 
their fingers than offer insult to their beloved and holy priest. 
The postillion and out-rider, too, the body-servants of the 
holy father, had their badges hanging in full view from 
around their necks, the sight of which not only held out plea- 
sant hopes to the lookers-on, but at the same time, in the 
bountiful profusion of indulgences granted them, his favour- 
ites, the people had also to dread his anger and his denunci- 
ations, if good cause should demand them to be exercised. 

I had good reason to congratulate myself likewise, that 
it was not my destiny on my journey, of perhaps half a 
dozen days, to Zacatecas, to be driven in a diligencia, un- 
der the lashing and stoning of the animals, over rough and 
smooth, all alike, amid the shouts of the drivers, and the 
barking of dogs. 

The plain of La Villita was broad and long, more than a 
-day's journey across. I did not pass any towns or water 
on my journey, but, as usual, had my attention chained by 
the peculiar scenery which Mexico always and every where 
presents — that of lofty mountains fencing in an Eden be- 
neath. 

Having arrived at La Villita, a town of about two. thou- 



293 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

sand inhabitants, we were obliged to put up there, for the 
reason that we should not be able to find houses at the close 
of the evening, beyond that place, to stop at. In having ta- 
ken leave of all public ways of travelling, I found that I 
had also to adopt the modes of accommodation as practiced 
in Mexico, doing in Rome as Romans do — and the longer I 
travelled the more I had to learn, for that is the only way to 
get along in Mexico ; as to make a stranger understand all 
your wants and necessities is a matter of impossibility. Ho- 
tels are not kept here as in the United States ; in fact, 
agreeable to our understanding of tavern-keeping, there are 
no such things in the country. 

In towns in Mexico, through which there is much travel, 
there are public houses called Mesons, which are nothing 
more nor less than the caravansaries, stopped at by tra- 
vellers in Asia. Having selected, by inquiry, the best me- 
son at La Villita, and chosen one of thirteen rooms in the 
establishment in the upper story, (for those of the ground 
floor apartments are chiefly occupied by arrieros and other 
filthy travellers,) our baggage was carried into it ; and it did 
seem to me as if we were fitting up quarters for house- 
keeping for " life," as the room was entirely divested of all 
kinds of furniture, saving a large wooden table and a long 
bench. My friend being acquainted with the customs of the 
country, by his long residence in it, had brought with him 
from the city of Mexico his bed and bedding, called in Spa- 
nish cartera. This cot is so made for travelling purposes 
that it can be quickly put together, and soon taken to pieces. 
It weighed with all the bedding but fifty pounds, and was 
admirably adapted for the accommodation of the traveller, 
on account of its portableness. 

It happened to have been my misfortune not to be pos- 
sessed of a cartera, although I remembered being informed 
by a friend, in the city of Mexico, not to fail in supplying 
myself with one. But I deferred the purchase until I should 
reach Zacatecas, believing that I should find no difficulty in 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. jgg 

obtaining a bed to sleep on, at any house that I might stop 
at, as I had always met with them at the Casas de la Dili- 
gencia. 

My mistake was on this occasion very mortifying to me, 
for I then for the first time became sensible that I was to 
repose without the comforts of a bed, the luxury of which 
I had never before been deprived of; and as I cast my eyes 
over the dusty brick floor that promised to rest my weary 
limbs, my mind's eye could but review in retrospect the fea- 
ther beds, clean sheets and white cotton counterpanes of old 
Virginia. In my dilemma, however, the American propo- 
sed that our postillion should go into the town and hire me 
a bed for the night. 

The servant, after a long absence, returned and acquaint- 
ed us that he was unsuccessful, and that the ladies of La 
Villi ta had informed him that they had use for their beds, 
and I could not obtain one unless I would take for hfe the 
owner with it. As flattering as the proposition was to me, 
to obtain in La Villita a companion, and as beautiful a one 
perhaps as the Mexican ladies were, yet in the distress of 
my fatigue, and in despair, I again directed the servant to 
make the second and last effort, and to say that I was wil- 
ling for one night to pay double price for a bed, without the 
incumbrance. It was not long before the postillion returned 
with an excellent bed and linen sheets, with which, by the 
aid of my cloak to keep me warm, I had a comfortable night 
of it. My night's lodging cost me fifty cents, and as there 
was no fond i. (cook-shop) attached to the meson, we had to 
despatch our servants to purchase of a baker our repast, at 
the rate of one dollar and twenty-five cents per meal. The 
rent of our room was sufficiently moderate, as the keeper 
only charged twenty-five cents. 

La Villita is an ugly, cheerless-looking place, and there I 
was deprived of much sleep by the soldiers, from an old fort 
that overlooks the town, shouting and applauding some rope 
dancers near the meson. At eight o'clock the following 



200 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

morning we repacked our baggage, and departed from La 
Villita. The road over which we travelled that day was 
equal to any that I had ever seen, and I doubt not that no 
country in the world could, with as little labour, have as 
good roads as Mexico. 

The road over which we travelled had perhaps never been 
repaired since it was first marked out by the old Spaniards. 
It is true that bridges had been thrown across some rivers, 
and other inaccessible places, but the remainder of the roads 
have never been thrown up in form, excepting, as before re- 
marked, for short distances, and near the large towns ; and 
indeed there appears not to have been the necessity for that 
attention to roads in Mexico as in most other countries, as 
the table lands have no elevations that require excavations 
for thoroughfares through them, while the depressions of 
the mountains can be crossed without labour ; besides, as it 
rains there from September until June, the earth is always 
in a parched condition during the rest of the year, so that 
the traveller never suffers but from dust or the heat of the 
sun, nor is retarded in his progress, excepting in the lake 
regions. 

Another reason may be assigned why the Mexicans do 
not devote more attention to public improvements, which is, 
that they cannot be persuaded to believe that wheeled vehi- 
cles are safer and better modes of transportation, than by 
the packing of mules ; they are like the boy who went to 
mill, with the corn in one end of the bag and a stone in the 
other to balance it, could assign no reason why he did so, 
other than that his ancestors did so before him. 

About fifteen miles from La Yillita, we stopped at the ha- 
cienda Pennueles, to take chocolate. From the high state 
of improvement in that place, I felt satisfied that it belonged 
to a gentleman of good taste. The dwelling in which he 
lived was commodious, and ornamentally painted on the 
outside ; besides, all of the houses, necessary for his servants 
and other purposes, partook of the same degree of style. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. gQl 

They were erected in regular rows, and stuccoed, which 
gave a degree of finished freshness to the whole place, su- 
perior in point of completeness to any other hacienda that I 
had passed. 

The extensive fields were inclosed by a stone wall four 
feet high, and discoverable, from the elevated position of 
the castle, for many miles in extent ; and not only reaching 
to the mountain, but winding up its steep ascent beyond the 
power of human vision. There was an artificial lake near 
the house, formed by a stone dam of about one-quarter of a 
mile in length, across a shallow, though broad, ravine, the 
surface of whose waters was grateful to the eye of a weary 
traveller in that thirsty land. The proprietor of Pennueles 
was a wheat grower, as by the aid of the lake he could ir- 
rigate his lands. 

Our journey was an uninterrupted one to Arguas Calien- 
tes, at which place we arrived late in the evening. This is 
a city that has seen more prosperous days, and was once the 
pride of the Spaniards. It does not now contain more than 
four thousand inhabitants ; and, as an evidence of its de- 
cline, the meson at which we stopped was once the sumptu- 
ous palace of the Conde Guadaloup6 — and a fine looking 
building it was — better than any I had seen in the upper 
country. 

When we dismounted at the meson the wicked old postil- 
lion told the mob in the court, that we were foreign padres, 
(priests,) and with courteous smiles, and great reverence, did 
the ragged and motley crowd let us pass to our rooms, with- 
out our receiving a single dun for alms. After we had 
taken our quarters, and the servants had brought our bag- 
gage into them, all the operations had to be acted out, as 
were the evening before, at La Villita ; that of setting up 
my friend's cartera, and of hiring myself a bed for the night, 
which I obtained for the extravagant charge of one dollar. 

Our dinner was a most indifferent and unsatisfactory one 
for hungry appetites ; yet the servant said that it was the 



202 TR AVELS IN MEXICO. 

best he could procure for one dollar and fifty cents. It 
cost me, likewise, six-and-a-fourth cents to have my pocket 
inkstand filled ; and so extravagant were the prices, for eve- 
ry thing, that it caused me to inquire if the people of that 
country were inimical to Americans 1 to which I was an- 
swered, that they were only friendly to those who had mo- 
ney; and I have no doubt that they would not hesitate 
much to the mode of filching it from the pockets of tra- 
vellers. 

The prefect of that city, I was told, was an enemy of the 
human species, by his having been a captain of banditti. 
However, I found some amends for all my hardships in 
Arguas Cahentas ; for at this place I found the Italian opera 
company of the city of Mexico, who were on a travelling 
excursion through the upper country. My friend and self 
spent a portion of the night in attending their delightful per- 
formances. I felt much regret that there were no printed 
bills for the accommodation of the audience, and for the 
want of these I was unable to learn the names of the 
actors. 

The city of Arguas Calientas takes its name from the ce- 
lebrated hot-springs that are in the vicinity of the place. 
These springs are said to vary in temperature from 80° to 
120'' Fahrenheit, and afford delightful baths. The invalids 
of the surrounding country resort in considerable numbers 
to the city for the benefits of the hot-baths, and, indeed, are 
never empty of men, women and children of the city, al- 
though they are not covered by houses, or shelter of any 
kind. 

The city is as w^ell built as any other of the Mexican 
towns, and has from one to two churches to every square ; 
and, judging from the number of priests and soldiers I saw 
lounging about the streets, I have no hesitation in believing 
that a congregation of either could have been obtained at 
any time. In the centre of the plaza, in front of the meson, 
was a handsome fountain, built after the fashion of a menu- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 203 

/ 

ment. It was a solid pillar of slone, of about twenty feet 
in height, sitting upon a square basement of ten feet high, 
upon the corners of which were four swans in a sitting po- 
sition, spouting water from their throats. 

To give an idea how justice is administered in Mexico, 
and the influence of the wealthy over the administrators of 
the law, I cannot refrain from relating a case which came 
before the city prefect for his adjudication. 

It appeared that a wealthy citizen was the owner of a 
white guaranon, (a jack,) and that, whenever the animal 
went to the fountain with his master's water-buckets, pack- 
ed upon his back, as was the custom, to have them filled for 
the benefit of his owner, the naughty beast would, upon his 
arrival at the common watering-place, if he found there any 
poor women or children, who had also come with their 
earthen vessels for water, for the reason that they could not 
be the owners of such animals as himself, through mischief 
or pride, or some other cause, jump and kick all about until 
he would completely demolish all the crockery of the terri 
fied and defenceless sufl^erers. Such doings had long been 
complained of by the good citizens, but his master was rich, 
and it was thought useless to prefer a charge against the 
wealthy man, to the town authority, of the many breaches 
of the peace committed by the wicked creature. 

It happened one day, however, that while Guaranon was 
on his way to the said fountain, and, as usual, all the good 
people were, at the sight of him, scampering with their frail 
jars from the watering-place, which was designed for the 
benefit of all the inhabitants, the said white beast, as it were, 
perceiving that he could not, by the retreat of the poor wa- 
ter-carriers, have a frolic, smashing jugs at the fountain, 
suddenly turned aside into a market-place, and, driving out 
all the buyers and sellers, he made his heels dance amongst 
the toy, dry-goods and glass-ware stands, as well as by 
overturning many pyramids of fruit and precious chili, 
committing grievous trespass. So great was the outrage 



204 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

that the hucksters could not endure it; and, although his 
master was rich, they all determined, to the great joy of 
the water-carriers, to sue for damages. Accordingly, the 
owner was summoned to appear before the honourable pre- 
fect, judge of the law. 

The master did not hesitate to appear, and when the 
charges were preferred, he, in defence, said, that the jack 
was a dumb brute, and that he could not hold himself re- 
sponsible for his acts, and if the learned prefect wished to 
prosecute a suit for the benefit of the market-people, that 
he must send for the animal, the guilty one, and not for 
him, to answer to the allegations. He was accordingly dis- 
charged, and the guaranon duly summoned and brought into 
court, where it was thought, from his sense of guilt, he be- 
haved decently. The judge, unable to obtain any defence 
from the dumb prisoner at the bar, and having sufficient 
evidence against him, proceeded to deliver the judgment of 
the court, and decided that the animal should have twenty 
lashes upon his bare back, and work at hard labour upon 
the public streets, for the term of three months. 

Early on the following morning we again commenced 
our journey, and, having reached the suburbs of the city, I 
discovered ten American wagons encamped near the high- 
way. Upon inquiry, I found that a majority of those wa- 
gons had American drivers, but the wagons and teams were 
the property of a Frenchman, residing in the department of 
Chihuahua, and that he had transported them from Saint, 
Louis, Mo., by land, to Mexico, and I was told, that not 
unfrequently those wagons made trips from Chihuahua to the 
city of Mexico, a distance of one thousand miles. I was 
informed that they had made drives, from the above city, 
of more than two thousand miles, to Santa Fe. 

It may be surprising to some persons, that I should have 
taken any notice of the wagon-train ; but to an American, 
who was travelling far distant from his native land, in the 
midst of a people differing in language, usages, and, in fact. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 205 

in all their appearances, from the rest of the world, it 
could not be astonishing that my attention should have been 
attracted by any thing American, and that I should have 
been delighted in beholding a fellow-countryman, though a 
wagoner. 

It may not be improper here to attempt to describe the 
difference between the American and the Mexican wagon. 
Without exception, the Mexican constructed wagon has but 
two wheels, and is manufactured, generally, without the use 
of iron. The hub is a single cut from a tree, about twenty- 
eight inches in length, and fifteen in diameter. There are 
but four spokes to a wheel, four inches through ; while the 
felloes are twelve inches thick, and as many broad. The 
whole is made of the heavy, strong wood of the country, 
and, from its sohdity, is difficult to break. The body of the 
wagon is about equally balanced over the axletree,'the front 
resting upon the tongue, after the fashion of the ox-carts in 
the United States. The body is never planked, but thatched 
with straw, as also the sharp roof to it. 

From eight to twelve oxen are at a time yoked by the 
horns, and not with a bow over the neck ; while the driver 
carries a stout pole, from ten to fifteen feet in length, having 
a sharp metal spear affixed to the smaller end, by the cruel 
use of which they prick and goad the animals along. It is 
true, that there are some lighter wagons used in the cities, 
which have two sets of shafts, so that the whole weight of 
the body of the wagon rests upon the backs of the horses. 
However, as transportation is carried on the backs of mules, 
they have but little use for wagons in Mexico. 

The individual who visits Mexico, from every thing that 
surrounds him, finds himself retrograding to the age of the 
Romans, in some things, while in others, to the days of 
Abraham. The Moors, who invaded Spain, brought nothing 
of improvement with them, and the Spaniards, who conquer- 
ed Mexico, have indeUbly stamped the character of the 
people of that country with a predominant prejudice against 



206 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



all the useful arts. All of their implements of agriculture, 
and simple fixtures of raw hide harness, are of primeval 
invention, and the present Mexican seems to have degene- 
rated from what their masters had perfected them in. 

Our day's journey was a dusty one, for the wind set 
strong from the south-west, from which quarter it scarcely 
ever changes its direction during the dry season. As we 
were gradually ascending a more elevated table country 
from Lagos to Zacatecas, those strong winds, sweeping 
from the Pacific over the plains, have a disagreeable effect 
upon the traveller. For in the first place, it must be re- 
membered, that we were at least seven or eight thousand 
feet above the level of the sea, and under the tropical sun, 
where rain had not moistened the earth for months, and 
then had a continual current of strong wind blowing upon 
us, its drying influences being felt according to my previous 
conceptions of its deleterious effects. 

Los ira, as the Mexicans call it, (the air,) appeared to have 
absorbed the fluids of my eyes, and they had more or less 
distressed me, from the time of my first ascending upon the 
table land ; besides my skin had entirely become divested of 
moisture, as if the liquids of the system had refused to per- 
form their functions. The skin had a hard parched aspect, 
as if it was almost audible to the touch ; while in the shade 
I was neither cold nor hot, and with not so pleasant a feel- 
ing as lukewarmness. 

The dry earth, under all of these causes, was easily 
raised in clouds of dust, and as it floated in solid bodies, like 
a sirocco, or a whirlwind, we were obliged, with mouth and 
eyes shut, to charge through the thick array ; but as ex- 
hausted nature would require respiration, it could not be 
performed, but by taking the dust with the atmosphere on 
the lungs. Well did I dread the ira as the Mexicans, al- 
though it has often been hooted at by some foreigners, who 
have had but a short residence in the country. We had 
not been long on our way that morning before I observed 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 207 

that our out-rider had made a more considerable display of 
badges than at any former period, and upon inquiring the 
reason of the increased ostentation, he informed me, that as 
murders were very frequently committed on the road we 
had that day to travel, he wished the more strongly to im- 
press the robbers, that he belonged to the coach of Sifaihe?-; 
and thus the man believed that religion could restrain the 
hand of a pirate, when the laws of his country would not. 

Our road, for the most part of the day, was over a bar- 
ren country, and I discovered that in many places of the 
plains, the blue thistle, or weed, that has in recent years co- 
vered the fields of some States in the Union, and in fact, 
supplanted, in many instances, the brown straw and other 
spontaneous vegetation, — abounded in that region, and as 
the American planter was at a loss to conjecture from 
whence the new invader came, may it not be reasonable to 
suppose that animals, brought through Texas to the United 
States, carried with them the seeds of the useless and bar- 
barous growth. 

In the evening we travelled by the side of a continued 
corn field, which extended some seven or eight miles. This 
I know is difficult for the inhabitants of the United States to 
believe, but is nevertheless true. With equal veracity it is 
stated, that the eye could not detect the breadth of the cul- 
tivated field, for it was lost in distance over the level plain. 
It was the hacienda of San Jacinto, and was the property 
of Conde Perez Galvez. Besides the maize grown on that 
farm, there were wheat and other crops. At San Jacinto 
terminated our journey for that day. My bed here cost 
me seventy-five cents, and indeed my sleeping was dearer 
to me than my eating ; and but for the fact, that I should 
reach Zacatecas on the following day, I had determined 
that I would not repose at all, but employ my time it writ- 
ing, and sleep in the day time, while travelling in the coach. 

At the meson of San Jacinto many officers of the Mexi- 
can service had stopped, and among tliem was a Deputy 



2Q3 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

from the department of Santa Fe : his name has escaped 
me, but he stated that the Camanche Indians had made war 
upon the department of Chihuahua, and were destroying all 
before them. He related that he had had a distant view of 
Indians who were engaged in murdering all the inhabitants 
of a hacienda. He said it was calculated that the Indians 
had taken the lives of about three hundred thousand Mexi- 
cans in the last five years, and that hundreds of haciendas, 
which had not been devastated by the Indians, had been 
abandoned to the merciless foe by their proprietors. I was 
of the opinion, from the narration of the deputy, that the 
Texians, in some short period, would only have to subdue 
the savage conquerors of the northern departments, and peo- 
ple them with the Anglo Saxon race. 

With the body-guard of the deputy, and the military of- 
ficers who were quartered at the meson of San Jacinto, for 
that night, if they were brave, we could have resisted a con- 
siderable force of Indians. From the many cavalcades that 
were, from every direction of Mexico, making their way to 
the capitol, many were the speculations created by the good 
people of the country. Some were of the opinion that Santa 
Anna designed another revolution, with the object of mak- 
ing himself the absolute and permanent despot. Whilst 
others believed that the President was organizing a body of 
troops for the conquest of the United States. Their igno- 
rance was to be pitied ; the foreigners and the intelligent 
portion of the Mexicans felt satisfied that preparations were 
making for the invasion of Texas. 

It appears to be necessary, for the maintenance of the 
government of Mexico, that every city, town, and farm 
should be strongly garrisoned with well armed and disci- 
plined regulars. These troops, in my estimation, are not 
what they are represented to be by some, as having been 
taken from the prisons and hospitals of the country, which 
in some periods of the revolution, has been the case. But 
on the contrary, they are now likely, active young men, se- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 2Qg 

lected from the athletic of the whole population of the re- 
public. 

My attention was attracted, while in the city of Mexico, 
by beholding some four or five hundred men march into the 
place, dressed in all the peculiar and tattered costumes of 
the country. A gentleman informed me that those men 
were volunteers for the army, and that they were obtained 
by a squad of soldiers, who marched through the villages 
and haciendas, capturing the best looking men of those 
places : and although the poor wretches would lament and 
remonstrate much at first, yet when they had received their 
uniforms and found themselves well provided for, they be- 
come pleased and delighted with their condition. 

The soldiers of Mexico have been mostly impressed from 
among the aborigines, while the officers have had their ap- 
pointments generally from among the Spanish race, and 
foreigners of every nation. If the people of Mexico are not 
military, they must become so, under the present military 
despotism, by which they are governed. And if Mexico 
should continue to be ruled by an ambitious chieftam, the 
United States may have a troublesome, strong and envious 
neighbour. It is not wisdom to despise an enemy until the 
breaches are repaired, and the fallen tow^ers are rebuilt, for 
the garrison will thereby become refreshed and invigorated 
within, and, in an hour not expected, the self-secure may be 
surprised, and with a heavy loss, taught to turn their con- 
tempt into admiration, if not trembling. 

On a certain occasion an officer of her Britannic majesty 
was in conversation with me, upon the subject of the effi- 
ciency of the Mexican army, and I could only be amused at 
the fluency of his imagination. The captain said that her 
royal highness. Queen Victoria, would not want an easier 
task than to subdue Mexico, for she M^ould only have to 
send over some two or three thousand negroes from the 
West Indies, and after they had lassoed some one or two 
thousand Mexican Indians, and they found that they were 
14 



210 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

well fed, and clothed in the red coats of her majesty's troops 
— the balance of the Indians would soon come in, and there 
would be no battle to fight. However, I am of the opinion 
that, if her majesty's black troops were to come to Mexico, 
they would meet with the same gallant reception that the 
French did in 1839, — and that they would have to make 
the best of their escape, to prevent being lassoed in turn. 

At the break of day, my American friend and self arose 
from our carteras to commence our journey, it being the 
20th day of January. When I opened the door of our room 
it was with pain I perceived that our servants, (one of them 
was an old man,) were lying upon the hard and cold pave- 
ment of the court of the meson. The night was the coldest 
that I had felt since my arrival in the country, and I found 
that a close room, with several lays of light clothing, was 
necessary to make me comfortable. But having given ex- 
pression to my sympathy, my friend informed me that it 
was the habit of all the servants of the country, and that in 
any of the climates of Mexico, the common classes pre- 
ferred sleeping in the open air, to being lodged with the 
fleas in the houses, summer or winter. From the dryness 
of the atmosphere, no known diseases are said to have been 
engendered from the exposure. The American servants 
Vv^ho have ever been used to summer and winter clothing, 
besides having blankets and fires in their rooms, could not, 
if transported to Mexico, stand what Americans call expo- 
sure, for the entirely different habits of the people of the 
United States from those of that country are such, that I 
have no doubt that persons of the hardiest constitutions 
would perish under the hardships. The Indian servants of 
Mexico have, by nature, no fears to apprehend from storms 
or change of climate. From the experience of those who 
have seen much of the world, it has been acceded, that the 
slaves of the south and west of the Union are better provided 
for, and are happier than the indigent servile communities 
■of any other part of the world. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 211 

A Mexican gentleman once remarked to the Secretary of 
the ximerican Legation, that he had visited New Orleans, and 
was very much pleased with the city, but that he could not 
bear to witness the sufferings of the poor slaves. The se- 
cretary appropriately replied, by inquiring, if he had ever 
compared the relative condition of the slaves of the United 
States with the servants of his own country ? and if he had, 
his sympathy would be the more awakened by beholding 
the aggravated sufferings of servitude among his own blood 
and fellow-countrymen. 

Since I have touched upon the subject of slavery, I will 
here take the privilege of saying that nothing, to my mind, 
can be more absurd, under the American constitution, than to 
attempt to break the bands of relationship between master 
and slave, without giving entire and perfect civil liberty to 
the disenthralled free men ; for liberty, otherwise, to the 
black man, would be a mockery and a paradox. This sen- 
timent I express in strict truth and justice to the subject — 
not that I desire either of the modes, or wish to meddle with 
the delicate institutions of my country. 

Our journey for this day was as the preceding one; a 
hot sun, hard south-west wind prevailing, with clouds of 
dust, and often during the day the wind was more violent 
than I had known it to be on any former occasion, for I 
could at elevated points hear the gravel strike against the 
sides of the coach. The hard winds of this region are at- 
tributed to the higher elevation of that part of the country 
over any of the plains south of it. Zacatecas is to Mexico, 
what Mount Airy, in Virginia, is to the United States, for 
the waters, that have their rise at either of those places, 
flow to both oceans, east and west, and north and south, af- 
fording conclusive evidence that its summit is above any 
other portion of table lands in Mexico. It is said to be 
8,.500 feet above the level of the sea. 

I felt rejoiced thai my journey would terminate on that 
day in the Padre's coach : although it was with some ap- 



222 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

prehensions that I should not be so fortunate again. How- 
ever, we did not have a happy deliverance from all moles- 
tation, for about two o'clock in the evening, a party of men 
were discovered in pursuit of us, and, upon their overtaking 
the coach, armed with guns, swords and pistols, they advan- 
ced by dividing their party upon each side of us, three on 
one and two upon the other. They most impertinently scru- 
tinized our persons and our baggage, yet without making the 
least hostile show. If they had, as undesirable as the neces- 
sity would have been, myself and friend were resolved to 
defend our lives and our property, and were well prepared 
for the rencontre. It was our intention that both of us 
should maintain the action upon our two sides at once with 
our six barreled pistols, flanked as we were with the ene- 
my. Our escape, perhaps, from harm, resulted first from 
riding in the priest's coach, and next, by our being foreign- 
ers. 

Such a condition of dishonest and barbarous habits, ex- 
isting in a country called civilized and Christian, must ap- 
pear to the nations of Christendom to be incredible, but the 
truth has nevertheless been attested by all travellers who 
have had the temerity to journey much in the territory of 
ill-fated Mexico. From the dreadful results of the attacks 
by freebooters, committed upon men and women, whose 
business has called them abroad, it would be madness in 
any individual to attempt a journey, without furnishing him- 
self first with all the necessary equipments of defence. 

The consequence of such an imperative custom is, that 
you cannot at any time see a miserable huckster driving a 
donkey, or a peasant engaged in his agricultural pursuits, 
without his having his gun and rusty old spear swinging to 
the side of his half-starved animal I would impress upon 
the minds of my readers that there are no unarmed citizens 
in Mexico — it matters not when or where you find the man, 
in his house, in the street, or on the highway, although he 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 213 

may be needy for food or raiment, yet you will see an im- 
plement of death in his hands, for the double purpose of at- 
tack and defence. 

As a people, the more polished circles of society, as also 
the lower classes, possess decorum and finished manners, 
and in their guileless aspect, and professions of punctilious 
performances, the stranger, in the contemplation of the 
Mexicans, has much to admire — yet, at the same time, if 
his confidence should be won in them, he v/ill often find 
himself the dupe of the bnsest treachery. 

True, there should and must be some good, honest, and 
high-minded citizens in Mexico ; yet, so difficult are they 
to be found, and so few the number known to the world, 
that they are not sufficient to give respectable character to 
society. It is a fact that perfection cannot be found any- 
where, and some wicked persons are to be met with in eve- 
ry commimity; yet it is monstrous when the great majority 
of the inhabitants of a country are swindlers, thieves, and 
murderers, in an unqualified manner, as is the case in Mexi- 
co ; it must be with shame and remorse that Christianity 
and civilization, in the enlightened world, are compelled to 
denounce them as a nation of pirates. 

It is needless to garble the truth, for covering the ini- 
quities of these people in any form, is but encouraging them 
in the perverseness of their ways, and deluding the creduli- 
ty of those who are earnest seekers after information, some 
perhaps for future interested motives. Far be it from me to 
beguile a foreigner into the serious difficulties and dangers 
which must follow the travelling and residing of any one in 
Mexico. 

Never could have I comprehended the correctness of Mr. 
Randolph's declaration, upon the floor of Congress, that, in 
Mexico, " the men were all rogues, and the women all 
******," and have been impressed with the great error and 
responsibility of the government of the United States, when 
she received that country into the family of nations, until 



214 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

chance and necsesity obliged me to visit Mexico, and when 
there I wsls compelled to believe ocular demonstration. I 
have the boldness fearlessly to charge home the disgrace 
of their national character, with the sincere desire that 
it may be but as a drop in the bucket, to chastise our 
sister republic into reform. 

The government of Mexico, in 1842, made some efforts 
to break down the universal practice of wearing arms, by 
Santa Anna's issuing a decree that none, excepting gentle- 
men of character above suspicion, should be permitted li- 
cence to have private arms; yet the decree failed to cor- 
rect the evil, for the good citizens all believed that they 
came up to the requirements of the law ; besides, the keep- 
ers of the custom-houses would have been foiled in securing 
their fees had they enforced the intentions of the decreci. 
Therefore the robber, as well as the honest man,, alike,, as 
formerly, carried weapons. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



215 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Del Rtfusio. Flock of sheep. The hacienda Pavas. Ascending the Plain. The Mexi- 
cans in tlie fields. Vein of silvei- on the surface. Abundance of silver ore. Laws of 
Mexico on Mining. Tlie principal vein of silver. The appearance of the range of 
Mounlains. A large Convent. High wall. Don Garcear's granary. Battle-ground. 
General Audrade Santa Anna. Colonel Harcoin-t's defeat of the Zacatecans. Santa Anna 
flushed with pride. Conquest of the United States and Texas. Napoleon of America. 
Pirst vitw of Zacatecas. The streets. Meson. The American my interpreter. An Irish 
gentlemen. Many public buildings. La Parroqiiia Convento de Muestro Senora del 
Petrocenis. The Saint. Location of the resident Saint. Subject of divinity. Govern- 
ment Palace. Spanish Marquis. Child christened. The Mi it of Zacatecas. Mr. John 
Scott. Mexican horse. Hacienda de Beneficio Santa Clement. Cultivated gardens. 
Water from the Mines. Bags of hides. Ropes of hide. Shafts of the Mines. The ore 
3'ards. Labourers. Captains. Specimens of silver ore. Native silver. Keflections. 
'I'he eminence of Santa Clement. Mountain and Valley Scenery. Machine for pulveri- 
zing are. One thousand bushels of ore. Washing the ore. Examinations of the labour- 
ers. Thefts. The blackleg. 

DuRiivG our day's journey we had to pass Del Refugio, a 
hacienda said to be of considerable value. I was informed 
that the present possessor is not its proper owner, but that, 
upon the demise of its proprietor, in fee simple, the credit- 
ors of the deceased disagreed about the sale of the estate, 
and the limb of the law who had been appointed curator of 
the property, having the possession, chose to retain it in de- 
fiance of the just claims of the creditors. 

At Del Refugio I saw a herd of sheep that must have 
numbered several thousands, and, as they extended over the 
plain, they looked like a vast moving body of snow. I wish 
to impress the mind of the reader that, as the traveller ad- 
vances north, and approaches one of these valuable estates, 
he will behold immense herds of stock of all kinds ; and, as 
a test of the truth of my assertion, I will only cite the his- 
tory of a hacienda which a few years ago caused some 
litigation in the city of London, England. 

The hacicndia Paras, signifying a vine, was the only es- 
tate in Mexico where the grape was permitted to be cultiva- 
ted by the king of Spain. It was, previous to the revolu- 
tion, the property of a Spanish nobleman, but after the in- 



2jg TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 

dependence of Mexico, he sold it to a Spanish house in the 
city of Mexico, and then it was resold to the house of Sta- 
ples & Co., of the same city. The Barings, of London, af- 
terwards became the purchasers, but were prevented from 
holding the property by the Deputies of Mexico passing a 
law preventing foreigners from buying or selling lands in 
that country ; and it is said that the speculations of the Pa- 
ras hacienda gave origin to the passage of the act. This 
estate, I was credibly informed, besides the extensive vine- 
yards, producing many thousand gallons of wines and alco- 
holic liquors, possessed, when the Barings purchased it, up- 
wards of three hundred thousand head of sheep, with a cor- 
responding proportion of other stock. 

As we gradually ascended the plain to the mountains of 
Zacatecas, we were exposed to a heavy cold wind, that 
swept over the face of the earth, unimpeded by forest. I 
was sometimes diverted by the Mexicans in the fields, 
whose loose serapis would, by the violence of the winds, 
float from their shoulders like the wings of so many sopi- 
lotes, buzzards, as if the natives would be flown away with. 

At about three o'clock in the evening, my American com- 
panion pointed out to me the rich mountains of Zacatecas, 
in a deep gorge of which was built the city of the same 
name. The American had, during his residence in Mexico, 
been engaged in mining at that place, and could therefore, 
from his perfect acquaintance with it, minutely trace out, 
for my understanding, a vein of silver ore, the only instance 
of the kind known in the world, which rose to the surface 
of the plain, and with precision follow its ascent up the 
mountain, and describe the visible walls and buildings, 
where shafts had been sunk upon the vein and its branches. 

I was much surprised when I perceived that the veins of 
silver ore were perceptible upon the surface, for I had ima- 
gined that the treasures of nature lay buried deep beneath 
mother earth and the mountain-rock, obscured from all 
anxious eyes, as does the rich man's money in his hiddeu 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 217 

coffers. But not so with bountiful nature at Zacatecas, for 
she has, with the finger of her plentiful hand, plainly mark- • 
ed out the useful ore to the view of man, so that he cannot • 
be foiled, or unrewarded in his labours in excavating the 
precious metals. 

The laws of Mexico bountifully provide for the miners, 
as it is the privilege of any one to search for ores, and to 
work the veins when found, as his exclusive prerogative. 
When an individual has made a discovery of rich ore, it is 
his duty to survey a given number of acres of land, for the 
use and benefit of the mine, and have the same recorded in 
the office of the alcalde. He must then commence to work 
it in ten d;iys' time, with a particular number of hands, and, 
at stated periods, increase his expenditures to an amount 
limited by law. The discoverer, failing to comply with the 
requisitions, forfeits all claim and title to the property, and 
may be ousted by the will of any other occupant who can 
punctiliously perform the demands of government. The 
proprietor of the land upon which the discovery has been 
made, is always pleased at the location of mining-opera- 
tions upon his territories, for it brings to his doors a ready 
market for all the surplus of his hacienda campus. Being 
contented with the profits of his grain and stock sold to the 
operators of the mine, he has hazarded nothing in the uncer- 
tain results of opening and proving it : and besides, where- 
ver a shaft is sunk, there is also a town erected, which 
likewise affords a speculation in lots, to the original propri- 
etor of the soil. 

The principal vein of silver ore at Zacatecas, which first 
shows itself in the plain, ascends the nearest mountain, and 
is discovered about midway, where a shaft has been sunk 
to a great depth, but is not now worked. The vein then 
descends over the side of the mountain, and, after crossing 
the next ravine, suddenly ascends to the top of the next 
cone-shaped peak, and so on, ascending and descending, 
until it dips under the city, and again rises to the top of a 



2Jg TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

high peak, immediately tO' the north, overlooking Zaca- 
tecas. _ 

The appearances of the range of mountains, upon which 
are the veins of ore, are like all others in the interior of 
Mexico. They are almost deserted by vegetable groM^th of 
any kind; for the small amount of soil on those heights, 
generally, only produces a thorny, scrubby growth, that 
makes but a thin appearance in places. The silver moun- 
tains of Zacatecas, to my view, had something of a pecu- 
liar appearance, for they seemed to have been thrown up 
more abruptly, with a greater number of cones, having nip- 
ples crowning their summits. They seemed to have con- 
tained more of the native red rock of the country than any 
other mountain that I had beheld. I was informed that in 
mountains where silver was most prolific the rock chiefly 
abounded in porphyry, green and red stone. 

But to return — as I approached the mountain a large eon- 
vent was exposed to my view, which was a present to the 
order of Grey Friars by the owner of one of the mines. It 
was surrounded by the village of Guadaloupe, which had a 
romantic aspect, situated just at the foot of the mountain, 
commanding the pass, where I was directed the road to 
Zacatecas. Every town, of any consequence in Mexico, 
has its pueblo of Guadaloupe, erected in honour of the pa- 
tron saint of the country. 

Between the road and the village I perceived a high wall 
enclosing a large plot of ground, which I supposed to be a 
fortification ; but my friend informed me it was a granary 
belonging to Senor Don Garciar. Such granaries were 
not common, but had been invented and built by him, to 
prevent insects from injuring his grain ; his speculations in 
that article having been extensive ; in one of which he is 
said to have made above a hundred thousand dollars by one 
purchase. 

The plan he adopted to preserve grain for any given 
time, was to build houses within the enclosure, to cover the 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 219 

corn, of round and cone-like form. The houses were about 
twenty feet in diameter at the base, but built to a point at 
the top. They resembled an old Virginia fodder-stack more 
than any thing else. When these houses are tightly stuc- 
coed and filled with grain, the door is built up and plastered 
over, by which process the light, moisture and atmosphere 
are excluded, and the grain for ever preserved harmless 
from insects. 

After passing the granary, my friend informed me that 
we had entered upon the battle-ground, where Santa Anna 
defeated the Zacatecans in 1833, who were the last troops 
to hold out against him, when he usurped the governmen't 
from the constitutional president, Bustamente. The field 
was a dead level, and about one mile wide, confined be- 
tween mountains. Previous to the advance of the conquer- 
or, the governor of Zacatecas was desirous of obtaining 
some general of experience to command his forces, and in 
time Gen. Andrade, who had ever been an adherent of Santa 
Anna, suddenly became disafifected towarda^his former mas- 
ter, and espoused the cause of the Zacatecans. The un- 
suspecting governor, rejoiced at the fortunate accession, 
appointed him commander-in-chief of all his forces. 

It was not long after Gen. Andrade had been acting under 
his appointment before he marched his army, consisting of 
about five thousand men, from behind the bulwarks which 
had been thrown up on each side of the mountains that 
commanded the pass to the city, and which, if defended, 
would have resisted any enemy that might march against 
it. But the general, true to his secret purpose, for there is 
honour among thieves, made his encampment on the plain 
between Guadaloupe and the granary, and his antagonist 
soon hivouaced in sight of him. 

General Andrade, in a few days thereafter, commanded 
his horsemen, who constituted one-half of his army, to carry 
their horses to a distance from the camp, that they might 
have one night's good' grazing, and also directed that the 



220 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

artillery and infantry should not sleep on their arms that 
night, as he had no fears of Santa Anna attacking them. 
The whole army, fatigued with service, wiUingly obeyed 
the lenient orders of their general, with the exception of 
Col. Harcourt, a German by birth and education, who had 
the command of the Zacatecan artillery. He alone deter- 
mined to be upon the alert, and, accordingly, before the 
dawn of day, Santa Anna had skirted the plain at the foot 
of the mountain, by which well-timed movement he had 
thrown himself to the rear of Gen. Andrade, and thus 
cut otF the retreat of the Zacatecans from their strong-hold 
in the mountain. 

No sooner had Santa Anna obtained this position, with- 
out having alarmed his fellow-countrymen and enemies, 
than he commenced a heavy fire upon them, and while all 
were in confusion at the surprise, the brave and watchful 
Col. Harcourt rallied his men and returned the volley of the 
enemy ; and, could he have been sustained by the infantry, 
who were with(>ut horses, the triumphant Santa Anna must 
have been overthrown ; for the colonel had driven him 
back, with the loss of three hundred killed and wounded on 
the field. As it was, however, he surrendered, with his 
whole army, to the power of superior numbers. 

The inglorious commander of the achieved victory hav- 
ing secured his prisoners, issued a command that all fo- 
reigners, belonging to the Zacatecan army, should be shot 
on the spot. Ee it also recorded, to the glory and ho- 
nour of the Mexican officers, under the barbarous com- 
mander, that they remonstrated against the order, and saved 
the lives of many brave men. The shameful decree of 
Santa Anna being reversed, and the prisoners marched to 
the city of Mexico, the gallant Harcourt obtained his liber- 
ty, and in disgust retired to Texas, where he died a natural 
death, with glory and honour untarnished. 

Santa Anna, flushed with pride at having obtained so 
important a victory, immediately determined, contrary to 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO, ggj 

the earnest solicitations of many of his advisers, to attempt 
the conquest of Texas, and, with a vanity far beyond his 
powers of execution, declared that he would not only re- 
take Texas, but, with his army of ten thousand men, it was 
his intention to march to the city of Washington, and be 
the Napoleon of America. A gentleman of Zacatecas in- 
formed me that he was present, and heard the boasted vaunt 
of the American Napoleon, and so indelible had the glori- 
ous appellation been imprinted upon his mind, that he was 
8,gain heard to make a similar expression to Gen. Houston, 
after the battle of San Jacinto. 

From Zacatecas the victorious army was marched to the 
province of Texas, where the annals of history never before 
recorded so complete an overthrow of a general with well- * 
trained troops. I do not accuse Santa Anna of a want of 
intelligence, but on the contrary believe him to possess res- 
pectable talents ; for no man could at will usurp the govern- 
ment of a nation, without some strength of mind. By his 
superior intellect, and thorough knowledge of his country- 
men, he has never failed, by the happening of events, to ride^ 
in the whirlwind and direct the storm, in the affairs of his 
imbecile government. 

He cannot be commended for his ambition, which has 
impoverished the coffers of his country, and at the dear 
price of the blood of thousands of his fellow-countrymen. 
His passions are power and avarice, and to satiate his ap- 
petites, the one is maddened with the hope of gain, while 
the other is driven to desperation by the desire of suprema- 
cy. Mexico exhibits the remarkable anomaly of a ruler 
who holds the reins of government ostensibly — though not 
by the will of the people : yet, for all the sins of which he 
may have been guilty, the world will forgive him, if he will 
make his people honest and industrious, by doing which, he 
will emulate the character of, and be denominated by all the 
good of the earth, the great Czar, the Peter the Great of 
Mexico. 



323 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

My first view of the city of Zacatecas was the most pe- 
culiar I ever had of any other place. My attention was 
first called to the scene, in perspective, through the narrow 
gorge of the mountains. The city contains about twenty- 
five thousand inhabitants. The streets are all well paved, 
and, from their being uneven and hilly, have a cleanly ap- 
pearance. As the location of the town is over and sur- 
rounded by mines of silver, the wealthy proprietors have, in 
many instances, lavished their money upon large and high- 
ly finished buildings, after the fashion of the country. M5S 
American companion and self put up at De la Callede Ta- 
cuba Meson, and what rendered me well satisfied with the 
place was, that it was superintended by an Italian cook, 
who could speak EngHsh. 

It was my intention to remain no longer in Zacatecas 
than I could make all my necessary arrangements for some 
future point in my long journey. My friend proving, to my 
mind, to be so very intelligent and well acquainted in Mex- 
ico, I did not hesitate to engage him as my interpreter and 
my assistant in business, as far as Caneles, and I was su- 
perinduced to close a contract with him, for the reason that 
he stated, that he was destined for that place. I therefore 
determined that, as perhaps I should not meet with another 
so fortunate an opportunity of employing an interpreter, I 
would not let the chance escape me. 

The American promised promptness in securing all my 
equipments, and a speedy departure, and confiding in him, 
I employed my time in obtaining information and indulging 
in the pleasures of the city, besides resting from travel. An 
Irish gentleman I became acquainted with in the city of 
Mexico, and who had resided in that country for the last 
fifteen years, advised me, when I was about to depart for 
the upper departments, not to be thrown oiT a cautious 
guard by Europeans or Americans, any sooner than I would 
be by the natives ; for that, in the general, they were all 
alike, and I would suffer by the one as soon as the other,— 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 223 

yet it was absolutely necessary that I should have an inter- 
preter, and a choice must be made, let it prove good, bad, 
or indifferent, and I abide the consequences. 

There are many public buildings in Zacatecas, of large 
dimensions and costly workmanship. The church of La 
Parrogia is nearly the size of the great Cathedral of the 
city of Mexico. The entire front wall of the building is 
sculptured with the history of Christ and the apostles. On 
the church is a cupola built of the red stone of the country, 
which presents much architectural beauty ; there is also an- 
other in an unfinished state. The edifice was originally de- 
signed for a cathedral, but as that intention was vetoed, it 
was never completed, as no house of worship can have two 
steeples, unless it is a Bishopric. 

The Convento de Nuestro Senora del Patrocinio, has its 
situation upon a pinnacle of a mountain, overlooking the 
whole city. This convent is a small rehgious edifice, and 
the peculiar residence of the patron saint of the city. She 
however condescends to make an annual visit to her fa- 
vourite people, and for the better purpose of investigating 
the affairs of the churches, puts up at each for the space of 
one week. After having taken her celestial round, and re- 
ceived the hospitality of the city ; she then, in the same 
manner in which she descended, is marshalled back to her 
elevated home, followed by a large portion of saints and 
sinners, who as they move forward under triumphal arches 
of evergreens, have the blood red banner of the cross waved 
over them, amid the playing of music and the firing of rock- 
ets and cannon. Having taken adieu of her rejoicing flock, 
she remotely, though in sight, quietly resides on the top of 
the mountain, as the guardian angel of the public weal, 
there to remain until the following year, when the same an- 
niversary festivity is to be celebrated. 

There was no place of any consequence through which I 
passed, but what had its convent dedicated to the patron 
saint of the inhabitants. The location of the building is on 



224 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

the highest elevation overlooking the tov^^n, and the resident 
saints make their annual visits to their chosen people in the 
manner above described. 

There was one thing, however, that very much perplexed 
me, which was, to understand who were these divine per- 
sonages, for every one had her separate name, and peculiar- 
ly partial superintendence of the souls of the inhabitants of 
each town, while, at the same time, they were undivided 
and indivisible, of the same person of the Holy Virgin 
Mary, Mother of Christ. I must confess that I am wanting 
in a sufficient knowledge of divinity 4o understand what 
seems to me to be an incongruity ; and I have only men- 
tioned the fact for the benefit of those who might better 
comprehend the subject than myself, or feel curious about 
an intricate subject of this nature. 

There are many other churches in Zacatecas, yet I did 
not think it important to ascertain their number. There are 
several Jesuit buildings used as garrisons for soldiers. One 
of these, on the south side of the city, the bricks of which 
were made of the earth of a grave-yard ; and where the 
walls had not been plastered, or had fallen down, the bones 
and ashes of the dead were all mixed up in the common 
mortar of the bricks. To satisfy myself whether this were 
so, I visited the house, and indeed there were, besides hu- 
man bones, what apparently were fragments of clothing of 
all ages, visible on the walls, and, in the exhibition, I never 
was so forcibly reminded of the Latin maxim as then, ^'Sic 
transit gloria mundi." 

The government palace fronts on the south side of the 
Plaza, and is the largest of all the dwelling houses. It was 
originally built and owned by a Spanish nobleman, who, 
after the revolution, sold it to the city for the residence of 
the governor. I was informed that when the foundation of 
the church was laid, designed for a cathedral, it was 
to have fronted the plaza, but agreeable to that intention, 
the church would have obstructed the view of that place 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 225 

from the palace of the nobleman, and to prevent its location 
there, the marquis made a donation of one hundred thousand 
dollars towards defraying the expenses of erecting the build- 
ing, provided that the church should be so altered, as not to 
obstruct the vievir from the palace of the plaza. 

During my stay at Zacatecas, it became necessary to 
make excavations in the plaza, for the laying of pipe to the 
water fountain, which caused the original foundations of the 
church to be exposed, and the citizens flocked to behold it. 
But the Mexicans must have remembered that the days of 
the marquis had passed away, and that, although the mines 
of the mountains are yielding millions, the people are poor, 
for there are no such men as the Spaniards amongst them. 
A Mexican gentleman informed me that- the general condi- 
tion of the citizens had never recovered from the plunder- 
ing of the city in 1833, by Santa Anna, at which time he 
likewise confiscated the mining estate of one of her most 
wealthy inhabitants. But a day of retribution may come, 
and the author of so much calamity to his fellow-country- 
men may yet be overwhelmed.* I was informed that this 
celebrated nobleman, (whose name I regret to have lost,) 
when he had his child christened, had bars of silver laid 
from his palace to the altar of the church of the convent of 
San Francisco, for the priest to walk upon. 

At the mint of Zacatecas I met with Mr. John Scott, an 
Englishman, who, in his own country, had followed civil 
engineering, and had been sent out by an English, mining 
company to that city, to investigate and improve the modes 
of mining, and the machinery for the coining of money. 
Mr. Scott and myself came in contact at Jalapa, and tra- 
velled from there to the city of Mexico ; during his stay 
there, wc messed at the same table. He was not only a 



* Santa Anna, since the above was written, has been deposed, but time will 
have to dovrlope his ultimate fate. It is the impression of myself that he will 
yet be again the Dictator of Mexico. 
15 



226 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 



polished gentleman, but had also a spirit of accommodation, 
and seemed to take a pleasure in showing and explaining to 
me the utility of the machinery in the mint, and giving all 
other information occurring to his mind at the time, or an- 
swering my inquiries. The mint at Zacatecas is said to 
coin from five to eight millions of specie per annum. 

The post-office and the custom-house are substantial build- 
ings, well adapted for their purposes. There is but one col- 
lege here, called the Zacatecas Literary Institute. It is not 
remarkable for its elegance or workmanship, yet it is suffi- 
ciently commodious to accommodate one hundred students. 

On the 24th instant, I found myself mounted on a real 
Mexican small pacing-horse, completely equipped with all 
the paraphernalia of the style of the country, consisting of 
a Spanish saddle and bridle, the indispensable long rapier, 
holsters with pistols, and lasso. I am indebted to the obli- 
ging Englishman, Mr. Scott, for the kindness he extended to- 
wards me, in showing me through the mines of Saint Cle- 
mente and Saint Nicholas. The attention on his part was 
very acceptable, for these were the most productive of any 
others in complete operation at Zacatecas. The pleasure I 
enjoyed in visiting the fountain-heads of the wealth of the 
world, the glorious prospect before me, was divided in the 
anticipation of the first experiment I was about to make 
upon a Spanish saddle and a Mexican horse ; and in truth, 
although to witness the disemboweling of tons, of the pre- 
cious metals, so dear to the pursuits and wants of mankind, 
was an opportunity I would have regretted not to have em- 
braced, yet I must confess the prospect of the ride predom- 
inated ; for at the one I only had to gape and wonder at the 
vast amount of silver belonging to others, while in the other 
I was actually to receive the benefit of a short jaunt upon 
the most delightful of all the going animals ever subjected 
to the dominion of human beings ; and I was not disappoint- 
ed when my friend invited me to depart, and we had en- 
tered the street, to mount what an Englishman calls his 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 227 

" cattle," the gay, fiery, low-quartered, middling size Mexi- 
can horse, for they are all such in contrast with the Ameri- 
can animal. My little steed pricked forward his ears, pawed 
the pavement, and shot at me his fiery eyes, as if he had 
mistaken me for a Texian ; but I was soon in the saddle, and 
so far from finding him ill-natured, his whole action seemed 
to demonstrate the delight he took in holding me between 
heaven and earth, and, apparently discovering me to be a 
stranger, conformed to my ways upon the slightest notice. 
Upon my first acquaintance, and. all my after use of the 
Mexican poney, I found him to possess remarkable instinc- 
tive faculties. A stranger to him is at first apt to mistake 
his native playfulness and sprightliness for the wild fright 
and ill-nature belonging to the English and American horses. 

The Mexican horse is a descendant of the barbed ani- 
mals brought from Spain. He is more hardy than any 
other horse in my knowledge ; is obliged from his youth to 
maturity, tQ make his own living, and never knows what it 
is to be fed on the luxury of grain, until his master has 
thrown the lasso over his neck, and mounts his back, armed 
with a pair of Spanish spurs, the rowels of which are fr(^ 
three to six inches in diameter, and the first impressions he 
receives from under the tuition of his master, never fail to 
raise his feet above all impediment in the track before him, 
in an easy and nimble way, for he never stumbles. Our 
ride that evening was by no means over the plain, for no 
'sooner than we had passed the precincts of the city, our di- 
rection lay immediately over a rugged and deep ravine of 
hard rock bottom, having a stream running down it, created 
by the water drawn out of the mines. 

After having at a rapid rate travelled up a gorge for 
about one mile, we began to ascend the mountain, and then 
arrived at the Hacienda de Beneficio Mineral Santo Cle- 
mente. By the attachment of Mr. Scott to the Mint, we 
were accepted without delay at the gate, and having been 
first conducted to the office of the adminisirador, or gover- 



228 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

nor, I was introduced to the officers of the mine, who were 
all Englishmen, one of whom conducted us to the shaft, 
which has two mouths one hundred yards deep. One of 
these was continually used, night and day, for drawing up 
ores in raw hide bags, holding about five hundred pounds 
each ; while the other was worked in drawing up the water 
from the bottom of the mine. It astonished me to see the 
amount of water drawn up in this manner. 

I was shown, on my way to Santa Clemente, a beauti- 
ful and highly cultivated garden, that received irrigation 
from the streams flowing from the mines, and was informed 
that so considerable was the quantity of water afforded by 
the mines of FriznilKo, that it had changed the aspect of the 
face of the country, from thirst and barrenness, to that of 
blooming gardens, and extensive, highly-cultivated fields, by 
only receiving the quantity drawn from the shafts of the 
mines. Water is the only thing the lands of Mexico need, 
and whenever they receive it, the soil is covered with abun- 
dant harvests of grain, and all verdancy covers most luxu- 
riantly the bosom of the earth. 

Bags, made of new skins, are the most desirable for draw- 
ing up ore and water, for the reason that their own weight 
is comparatively nothing to what that of wooden ones would 
be, to answer a good purpose. Ropes, instead of chains, 
are use, also of raw hide, it being stronger than hemp or 
other fabric ; they wind round a cylinder about twenty feet 
in diameter, propelled by the power of mules, as all the ma- 
chinery of the mines and mint at Zacatecas is obhged to be, 
in consequence of the fact that the country about there, 
both mountain and plain, is so entirely divested of wood 
that, if all the gold and silver produced was expended, it 
could not purchase fuel sufficient to propel steam power ; 
the only fuel used in that section of country being charcoal, 
brought from considerable distances. 

I much admired the employment of ropes manufactured 
of hide in that dry climate, and I observed that all manner 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 229 

of vehicles — the heavy road-wagons, or the rich man's 
coach — are draughted by them, in the place of traces made 
of heavy leather, or of iron chains ; besides, they have the 
reputation of being more durable and stronger. The tra- 
veller is never annoyed by the clank and rattling of so 
much metal as belongs to the English and American car- 
riages. 

From the shafts we were conducted into the ore-yard, an 
area of between two and three hundred feet square. This 
large yard was covered with piles of silver ore, each con- 
taining about three bushels, and I suppose there were at 
that time more than one hundred of those heaps. The piles 
were made of fragments of ore, as broken by a sledge- 
hammer off the larger pieces, when drawn from the shafts. 
At each of these heaps a Mexican labourer was seated on 
the ground, engaged in severing the large lumps into small- 
er ones, and I was really entertained by beholding the dex- 
terity and facility with which the labourer would perform 
his task, securing by sleight a large piece of ore between his 
feet, and, with both hands hold of the helve of his hammer, 
lay upon it, until the rock was shivered into fragments. 
These men, as they progressed with their work, were also 
employed in separating the rich from the poor ores, which, 
from their long practice, they were enabled, most rapidly 
to do. Besides the labourers, there were men of superior 
talent, called captains, whose duty it was to re-examine the 
minerals, and, with more scrutiny, to collect the greater 
from the lesser in value. 

The gentleman who was conducting Mr. Scott and my- 
self over the hacienda, called for the chief captain to select 
a variety of specimens from the piles, so that I might the 
better understand the nature and kind of the different ores 
The captain showed me a specimen of the iron pyrites, 
which one unacquainted with the ore, would imagine to 
be the most valuable of any of the lumps contained in the 
piles ; for, as the beholder perceives the large veins of gray 



230 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



bright metal running through the rock, he is apt to mistake 
the sulphate of iron for the genuine silver. But, agreeable 
to the old adage, that " all that shines is not silver," so it is 
with the iron pyrites — for notv^^ithstanding the specimen 
dazzles the eye by its superior glittering appearance, yet it 
contains less of the precious metal than any other speci- 
mens to be found. The sulphate of iron pyrites is often 
mistaken by the ignorant for gold. There were also some 
iron pyrites containing sulphurate of silver. Specimens of 
this kind are very brilliant and rich in appearance, and in- 
deed contain more silver than the simple iron pyrites. 

The captain after a long search found a specimen of na- 
tive silver, united with iron pyrites and sulphate of silver. 
This specimen was not only rich, but lovely to behold — for 
the native silver seemed to have blossomed in the shape of 
a rose, and ornamented itself with slight tendrils winding 
and curling most brightly and purely over the rich silvery 
resemblance of the flower ; it looked to me more like the 
delicate art of the silversmith, than the work of nature. 
Another specimen of iron pyrites contained silver in a state 
of sulphurate. It had a beautiful aspect, looking as if it 
were a bright lump of silver unmixed, and was more valu- 
able still than the simple iron pyrites, or those which con- 
tained sulphate of silver. 

The captain then exhibited the native silver, attached not 
to reir stone, but to the rock peculiar to that country, for all 
of this valuable metal was pure, unalloyed silver. It exist- 
ed in small wiry particles protruding out of the curling 
veins, or otherwise appeared to have blossomed out at once 
in bunches. The silver of one of these specimens had 
something of a yellowish tinge, which caused me to inquire 
if the silver of that mine contained gold, when I was in- 
formed that the proportion was so small that it was consid- 
ered by the company not to be worth the separation. These 
specimens were contained in what the officer called slate- 
rock; but a gentleman, more scientific, told me that the 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 231 

proper appellation of it was green stone, the abundance of 
which covered the mountain in many places. 

To conclude my description of the ores which I saw at 
the Hacienda Beneficio Mineral Santa Clement, I must say, 
that under the burning Mexican sun I had never before 
witnessed a more Uvely and desirable scene, or one more 
capable of producing a variety of pleasing reflections. To 
look down into the bowels of the earth, from whence issued 
deep, sonorous explosions of powder, followed by the dis- 
tant hoarse, crashing, crushing sounds of the falling rocks, 
and then raise my head, and cast my eyes around me, and 
behold the apparent wasteful profusion of nature's w^ealth, 
made me ask myself — Why are there any suffering poor in 
the world 1 and my soul responded — Treasure up not the 
corruptible things of this earth, for the bliss of the happy 
cannot be purchased by silver and gold ; but there is an all- 
perfect store, which, if secured in the high coffers of hea- 
ven, moth can never corrupt, nor thieves break through and 
steal; and all the riches I then beheld would, but for a 
few years only, serve to stimulate the appetites of the mi- 
ner, the overreaching, the vicious and the robber ; and it is 
therefore, not only vanity, but ruinous to the true interests 
of the virtuous, to envy the possession of that which was 
only transitory, and can never satisfy; but it was calculated 
to expand the hopes of never-satiated desires, which were 
in their very nature perishable. 

From the high eminence of Santa Clemente, I could look 
down upon the mountain-side, and the narrow valley be- 
neath, without seeing a foot of soil in cultivation, excepting 
the green garden which I have mentioned, as watered by a 
silvery tide, flowing from a natural fountain of precious 
metal. And at thus beholding the vast expanse of the waste 
of the face of the earth, I could but reflect how much more 
valuable to animal creation would have been the amount of 
industry, expended in the mines, if it could have been ap- 
plied to the neglected and fertile soil of the country. 



232 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

From the ore-yard we were conducted to a new machine 
for pulverizing the mineral. This fixture was propelled by 
water-power, and was supplied by a stream from the buck- 
ets that were hoisted up from the shaft. It looked to be 
precisely like all the powder-mills I have seen in the Union. 
There was, at a convenient distance, a pile of poor ore, 
which, I was informed, contained about one thousand bush- 
els, and the machine was continually kept in motion, crush- 
ing from that bank. As the dust passed from under the 
crushers, it found its way to a long trough, through which 
flowed a constant stream of water, by which process the 
particles of metal sink to the bottom, and there remain, 
while at the same time the water flowed on, dusting its bed 
with silver as it descended the mountain. 

After we had been satisfied with all we examined, and 
were about to depart from the mine, I perceived a superin- 
tendent in a room near the large gate at the entry, running 
his hands through the hair of the heads, while his fingers 
passed in and around the ears of the workmen who came 
to him for examination. At the first sight I thought I was 
about to be ushered into the presence of some learned doc- 
tor of phrenology, but I was soon undeceived by observ- 
ing that no sooner had one fellow's head been examined 
than he doffed his serapi, showing the buff", and suffered 
himself to be searched all over, even to the bottom of his 
sandals, (for shoes are not allowed to be worn in the mines,) 
and not unfrequently bumps of secretiveness were found, 
which were always extracted, and never failed to be the 
richest native silver. 

The workmen, having undergone the scrutiny of the offi- 
cer in the room as above described, was then dismissed* 
and, as he arrived at the gate, he there found another offi- 
cer, standing on a mat, who also gave him a minute search, 
which, when finished, the man was suffered to make his ex- 
it from within the walls of the mine. The officers who per- 
formed the task, when it was over, approached the English 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 333 

gentleman, who had attended us, and handed him the spoils 
taken in the search, and each of them had a handful of sil- 
ver. I inquired how thefts in the mines were punished, and 
was informed that this treatment was not practised, for, that 
if it was, the company could not obtain hands to perform 
the labour, as the Mexicans do not consider it robbery to 
take ore. It is therefore the look-out of the officers to de- 
tect secretions of silver or gold, this being precisely the 
same principle adopted by the blackleg, that, as it is his 
business to cheat, it is that of the individual who plays with 
him to take care that he is not defrauded. 

From Zacatecas I had an opportunity of writing, by a 
private conveyance, to my friends in Virginia, as Mr. Cle- 
ment, an Englishman, who had been governor of a mining- 
company was going to give up his employment and take up 
his residence in the United States. Mr. C. had been pros- 
perous, and was unwilling to educate his family in Mexico. 
Wherever he may reside he will make a most worthy citi- 
zen. 



• 

23<$ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Zacatecas. Cargo animals and cartera. Much disappointment. The hotel. Meson de la 
Calle de Tacuba. Confined atmosphere. Fiie-places and stoves. Ice-creams- [Ice-makers. 
Objections to the meson. Poor fare. Mules. Fleas. Mexicans do not kill fleas. New 
home. No. 43. English and American citizens. John Bull. Minor nobles. Merit. Love 
of country. Americans Mexicanised. Lion and the unicorn. Society of Zacatecas. Party 
of Americans. Indian news. Bold resolve. Narrow streets. Buried money. Romance 
of buried silver. Catholic country. Tolling of bells. My servant. Region of day, Mex- 
ican mesons. Mexicans do not dine altogether. Spanish gentleman. Conversation. 
Mexican lands. Unmasked myself, U. S. and Mexipo. California. Oppression of Ame- 
ricans. Justice of my conclusions. From the position of Zacatecas. Mexico a country of 
great extent. Solicitude of Gen. Thompson. Pleased with the face of the country. Alle- 
made of Zacatecas. Monument so Signer Don Francisco Garceraer. Dr. Jenkins. Pri- 
soners. Public improvements in Mexico. Punishment of crime. Penitentiary system. 
Possession of the host. Prostration of the people. A friar and his sheep. Burial of the 
dead. Nephew of Col. Wilcox. System of the Mexican government. Iron of Zacate- 
cas. Revenue of the country. Ward the dictator. Want of fuel. U. S. and Mexican 
manufactures. Competition. 

Ojv the 26th mst., it being the sixth day after my arrival at 
Zacatecas, my interpreter informed me that it was impossi- 
ble for him to make all the arrangements for my journey 
that I required of him under ten days time. He said that 
there were no cargo-animals for sale in the city, and I would 
be obliged to hire my transportation from thence to Can- 
eles, and it would require one more week to finish the tra- 
velling cartera, which he had been making for me, and also 
that he found much difficulty in obtaining such servants as 
he could confide in. 

I was much disappointed with the above intelligence, for 
it was my ardent desire to proceed on my long journey as 
hastily as possible, and it was a very uncomfortable reflec- 
tion for me to have to hire my animals to Caneles, a dis- 
tance of about one thousand miles. This would appear, to 
any person, to be as costly, if not more so, than to purchase 
the animals in the first instance ; but, as the American had 
been a long resident in Zacatecas, and moreover had won 
my confidence by his gentlemanly deportment, I did not 
hesitate to believe him. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 235 

The Meson de la Calle de Tacuba had been a source of 
much annoyance to me; it was a one-storied building, hav- 
ing a court of a hundred feet square : the rooms vt'ere v^'ith- 
out any kind of w^indows ; the simple ground-floors were 
cold; and when the doors were for any length of time 
closed, the atmosphere within had a confined and earthy 
smell, which always produced in me a suffocating sensa- 
tion. 

I never once beheld the comforts of a fire-place or a stove 
in all Mexico, and in Zacatecas, though it was neither hot 
nor cold, it was unpleasant to a northerner not to have a 
fire sometimes, to break the perpetual chill, and produce a 
glow on the surface. I had not seen a fire since I left the 
steamer James Madison at New Orleans. 

As I have again alluded to the climate of Zacatecas, I 
will relate the fact of my hearing a huckster calling ice- 
cream for sale in the streets. At a loss to imagine how ice 
could be obtained there, as the place was toofar from Ori- 
zava to have it transported thence, I inquired, and was in- 
formed that during the month of January, in the cold, deep 
glens of the mountains, where the rays of sun least pene- 
trated, the ice-makers, for they are so called, place large 
earthen vessels, of about the size and shape of an English 
tea-board, with a shallow amount of water in them, and, as 
a sheet of ice forms upon the surface, it is carefully skim- 
med off, and deposited in bulks for preservation. And thus 
a supply of ice was furnished for a short period in the year 
to afford a luxury for ihe inhabitants of that city. 

My objections to the Meson de la Callc de Tacuba were 
also increased by the quantity of travelling past that place, 
and the rattling and tramping of the hoofs of the mules on 
the pavement, which was an annoyance intolerable to me. 
It must appear evident that, to an individual who had been 
used to better accommodations, it must have been a hard- 
ship to be obliged to put up with such poor fare, besides 
the inconveniences and want of comforts. 



236 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

But such are the customs of the country, and individuals 
who have seen better days are bound to suffer; and incred- 
ible as it may seem to some, without in the least detracting 
from the Mexican meson entertainment — for nothing has 
been said of the eternal warfare the much to be pitied and 
fatigued traveller has to wage against the fleas ; the houses 
are filled with these vermin, who do not hesitate, upon your 
entering into their apartments, to form an intimate acquaint- 
ance with you, skin deep ; and indeed I have had them so 
remarkably social and fond of me, that they were hopping 
and skipping about upon my journal, while I have been ta- 
king my notes. The common Mexicans do not on any oc- 
casion destroy these insects, for they say, as Uncle Toby 
did of the fly, that the world is big enough for them and the 
fleas too. 

My interpreter, to reconcile me to my long delay at Za- 
catecas, rented rooms at a reasonable rate, each of which 
"had a window, as well as a door to them, and having also a 
location upon the street and exposed to the sun. This I 
turned to an advantage, for whenever I found the shade too 
cool I had an easy refuge to the sunshine. Having become 
settled in our new home, No. 43 Calle de Aroiba — that is, 
the upper street — I determined to employ myself by walking 
the streets. As it was impossible for me to enjoy the socie- 
ty of the Spaniards or Mexicans, with any degree of plea- 
sure, both for the want of acquaintance and my deficiency 
in their language, for the Spanish cannot be learned in a 
day, I satisfied myself by the delight I had in looking-at the 
ladies as I passed along, and in turn being stared at as a 
stranger. 

However, I did not find myself altogether without socie- 
ty, for there were many English here, and some Americans, 
to whpm I was soon introduced. I always perceived that, 
wherever I met with foreigners, some peculiarities attached 
to them, and more especially as it regards the English and 
the Americans. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 237 

In the first place, John Bull invariably denominated him- 
self prmio, and never failed to swagger and play the aristo- 
crat more than others, and if he v^^as only a clerk at a ha- 
cienda beneficio, his deportment was more consequential 
and ostentatious among the republicans of Mexico, than 
even that of the Minister Plenipotentiary was at the capi- 
tal. His pride always seems to consist in rendering himself 
as much as possible foreign to the people he resides among; 
and to one acquainted with English manners and customs, 
it was somewhat diverting to behold those minor nobles, 
with Spanish mustache and antiquated European dress, 
something French, and part English, stiffly holding them- 
selves up as models of elegance and debonair of manners ; 
it never fails to remind me of the pithy saying of " like 
master, like man," examples of which are often seen among 
the slaves of the south, in the United States. Their con- 
versation is always interesting, by being flavoured with de- 
clarations of their relationship with my Lord Dowdy, or 
some Earl, or Baron — while their brothers or cousins are 
always better to do in the world than themselves, either be- 
ing officers in the British array or navy. 

The English are the most powerful people on earth, and 
I am glad that the inhabitants of the United States, and par- 
ticularly those of the Old Dominion, are descendants from 
them; but I am also rejoiced that the minds of my country- 
men are elevated above that sycophancy which knows no 
merit, saving a name derived from those who never knew, 
or would deign to look upon them. I admire the love of 
country that dwells in the bosoms of Englishmen, and would 
to God that the hearts of all Americans were as true to the 
sacred principles of their constitutional liberty, as the Eng- 
lish are to the Queen of Britain's isle. I must also .add that 
in some instances I met with Americans who had become 
Mcxicanised, who appeared to value more the lion and the 
unicorn, than the stars and stripes ; and my interpreter be- 
ing one of these, I had to remind him of his good whig pa- 



238 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

rentage. It was nevertheless a comfort to me to meet with 
Americans or Englishmen, who could speak my mother 
tongue, for no one can imagine the unpleasantness, without 
experiencing the condition of having to travel in a foreign 
country, the language of whose people he cannot under- 
stand; for he then recounts his countrymen and friends, 
with whom he once so familiarly conversed, in the same 
manner as a person labouring under a burning fever is re- 
minded of the cooling fountains from whence he has satis- 
fied his thirst. 

However the society at Zacatecas was good, and very 
agreeable. Among its number were two English physi- 
cians, who were very intelligent and polite gentlemen, but 
their professional services were said to be little wanted in 
that city, saving for casualties, as it was very healthy, being 
represented to be more so than perhaps any other city or 
country. It happened that, upon the day of my rem,oval to 
No. 43, a party of three Americans arrived at Zacatecas, 
from the northern provinces, and confirmed the previous 
news, that the Camanches were making incursions upon the 
upper departments, killing and plundering the inhabitants to 
a considerable extent. 

The Indians have on several occasions descended as far 
as between the cities of Zacatecas and Durango, on the 
very track that I should have to travel, and that too with- 
out resistance, for the reason that Santa Anna had with- 
drawn all the troops from the frontiers, to sustain himself in 
power at home, and to make the Northern provinces a wil- 
derness, inhabited alone by barbarous Indians, to prevent 
Mexicans from making settlements, and thus cut off the em- 
igration of foreigners to those regions ; as also to seal more 
effectually the order prohibiting the residence of Americans 
in the Cahfornias ; and, therefore, if I should be so fortu- 
nate as to escape a cruel murder by the lawless Mexicans 
who infest the highways, I could have no good reason to 
anticipate protection from the merciless Camanche Indians. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



239 



But since I had commenced the hazardous undertaking, not- 
withstanding the difficulties and dangers that my enterprise 
was obHged to encounter, and as there was no retreat for 
me, unless I should be reckless of being covered with the 
shame of cowardice, I, upon every examination of myself, 
boldly resolved that I would perish, or else overcome every 
obstacle, and make good my residence at the far-distant 
port of San Francisco, where I would conceive it to be the 
best deed of my life to protect the commerce and the citi- 
zens of the United States. 

The streets of Zacatecas are narrow, crooked and singu- 
lar, owing to the city being confined by mountains. I could 
not at any time have an extensive view of any street, and 
for this reason it required that I should exercise myself the 
more by walking, so that I might see every thing desirable, 
and form an opinion as to what contrast Zacatecas bore to 
other towns that I had se3n. 

In my rambles here I was shown a mountain along the 
sides of which the old road ran, where it is said a large 
amount of money had been buried by a band of robbers, 
who long since infested Zacatecas ; but as the banditti had 
been suddenly cut off, without leaving any one of them to 
divulge the secret where the treasure had been deposited, 
the present inhabitants had from time to time failed, in 
fruitless researches, and expenditure of large capital, in se- 
curing it. Many are the excavations made by the credu- 
lous yet visible, in the forlorn hope of finding perhaps that 
which had never been secreted. 

There is no country in the world, and especially among 
superstitious nations, but where there exist some romances 
of buried silver and gold. Doubtless the above legend was 
gotten up to excite the wonder of the curious, and encour- 
age the ignorant to hunt for that which never had an exist- 
ence, with the hope that they might be so fortunate as to 
discover a new vein of silver, nature's hidden treasure. 

My visit to Mexico, being the first time I had ever been 



24Q 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



in a Catholic country, it was with some surprise that, wher- 
ever I went, the ringing of the church-bells predominantly 
attracted my attention — and not until I reached Zacatecas, 
did I come to an understanding of the different ringings 
and tellings. I had hoped that, when I left the city of Mex- 
ico, my slumbers and meditations would not again have 
been disturbed by having to hsten to the unusual and hour- 
ly tolling of bells ; but, upon my arrival at Zacatecas, it 
being the only town of any consequence I had stopped at for 
some days, I was obliged every half hour to put my finger 
to my ears, and shout out to my servant to know " Si la di- 
ahlo d Santa Anna liahia arribdge,'^ — If the devil or Santa 
Anna had arrived — which appeared to divert my man very 
much, when he would, with all the devotedness of religious 
feelings, to the great amusement of my interpreter, com- 
mence an explanation of the different sounds. Sometimes 
they were for mass — for the Mexicans receive this every 
morning at eight o'clock ; and I have seen, on such occa- 
sions, the churches so much crowded, that many would be 
kneeling in front and around the building, catching, in the 
most profound reverence, every low tone of the organ, as 
well as the solemn voice of the distant ofliciating priest 
within. Sometimes the tolling was for the souls of some 
deceased rich person; for none but those who can pay, re- 
ceive that honour. To an individual seated in his room, the 
slow and deep tones of the bells seem to be answered from 
cupola to belfry, as if each felt the distressing pang of death, 
until the distant echoings of the mournful sound would die 
away upon the ear, producing a sadness of feeling in the 
listener, while he could imagine that he beheld the first 
heavings of the bosom of the deceased, in the agonies of 
death, until the last breath had flown, and the pulse had 
ceased to vibrate, and all was over. 

. Notwithstanding there was a ceaseless ding-dong uproar 
going on ; yet the most troublesome of all, at the same time 
I will confess it was sometimes a pleasure, was the an- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



241 



noLincing the approach of the meridian of day. The in- 
habitants are warned, for thirty minutes before the hour of 
twelve, that the king of day was about to be poised just 
above them, by the bells, of most indifferent tones, wishing 
to ring, being irregularly struck by a wooden hammer, 
which produced smothered, distressing sounds, as if to give 
an alarm, but were half way prevented by not having full 
power of speech. At length, however, the blows would be- 
come more regular, and were answered by a distant bell, 
more audible, and yet another, and another, until a climax 
approached, when all the brass in the place seemed to be 
crushing to pieces — and precisely at the moment of meri- 
dian time, the brain is pained by the confused noise, as if 
the world was summoned to judgment : then there is a sud- 
den relief, produced by the big tom of the principal church 
giving, in deep sonorous tones, three taps, when all the bells 
are silent, as if called to order by the voice of majesty. 
Then is heard the time of day, the peal of 12 o'clock, dur- 
ing which the inhabitants will stand uncovered. The bells 
alone do not proclaim the advance of day, for the band of 
the garrison is ready, when the last stroke of twelve is 
sounded, to rejoice, with musical strains, in the march of 
diurnal time ; after this there is a slight frolic among the 
bells, and the noise ceases. The rising and going down of 
the sun is likewise celebrated, which they call the oration. 

In Mexican mesons the boarders do not dine together, 
but each one sends his servant for his meals, or goes himself 
into the public room of the fonda at any hour he chooses, 
and is there furnished with as many dishes as he may like 
to call for : and although there may be others dining at the 
same time, it is not one common mess where all are fed 
from the same dish, but each one has his peculiar dish, un- 
molested by any others. Happening to dine one day in this 
manner, I fell in company with an old Spanish gentleman 
who could speak English, and we had not been long in the 
room before we exchanged looks, when he inquired of me 
16 



242 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



if I came by the way of the United States. I replied that 
I embarked at New Orleans for Vera Cruz. He saM his 
residence was far from the Atlantic coast, and that it had 
been a long time since he received any intelligence from 
Europe or the United States. Having satisfied his inquiries 
as to the English Union Jack affair, he then wished me to 
tell him what was the tone of feeling of the people of the 
Union towards Mexico, and if the government did not wish 
to make war upon that country, saying, that he had under- 
stood that the American Congress was desirous of obtain- 
ing the Mexican lands, so that they might increase the re- 
venues of the treasury. 

Having heard the statements of the old gentleman, I did 
not hesitate to unmask myself, and informed him that I was 
a native of the United States, and not, as he supposed, an 
Englishman ; and that I was from one of the middle States. 
I told him that the people of the Union sympathised with 
their republican brethren of Mexico, and rejoiced with them 
whenever they made an advance in liberal principles, for 
Americans not only loved civil liberty and justice at home, 
but admired the people of any clime who have followed the 
glorious examples of love of freedom and independence, 
which a Washington inspired his countrymen with; and 
that the people, as well as the government of America, 
could have no other feelings for Mexico, than those of kind- 
ness, notwithstanding passed wrongs, in respect for the 
weakness and revolutionary condition of her neighbour; 
and that the United States chose rather to pity than to crush 
her ; that the policy of the United States had never been 
that of conquest, and that she would sooner submit to some 
ills, than heap heavier calamities upon others ; and therefore 
Mexico had nothing to fear from the ambition of the United 
States, so long as she did not infringe upon the laws of na- 
tions, or break existing treaties. 

I related to him that Mexico had never had cause to 
make a complaint or ask an indemnity of the Union, but 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 243 

that, on the contrary, my government had to suffer delayed 
negotiation with her, for remuneration for the many spolia- 
tions committed by the Mexican authorities upon the com- 
merce and the private property of citizens of the United 
States, all of which our people had endured, and no disposi- 
tion was shown on the part of our government to retaliate 
by declaration of war, in consideration of which kindness, 
the Dictator and his Minister of War and Marine had issued 
a decree expelling Americans from three Departments and 
the Californias, without any known cause, or their having 
been suspected of molesting the peace of society. 

I could but add that unbounded pity and mercy were 
alone the attributes of the deity, and that the government of 
the United States, agreeable to the dictates of human rea- 
son, would have a stopping point for her lenity in enduring 
accumulating insults, injuries and wrongs, which would 
have to be atoned for ; and if the people of Mexico did not 
look to the misrule of their usurpers, the Union would have 
to take into consideration what course to adopt by which 
she might live in reciprocity of good respect with her sister 
republic : and that whatever her exasperated citizens may 
have done, the government has never encouraged a spirit of 
ill will in the minds of its people against the inhabitants of 
any country : it deals not in invective or threats, but rather 
attempts to persuade and entreat others to act justly, and in 
the timely moment its angry war-spirited eye is more to be 
feared than disregarded. Texas was then free and inde- 
pendent, and if in future time she should wish to hover un- 
der the wing of the American Eagle, it would be labour 
lost, on the part of Mexico, to make objections. 

The old Spaniard seemed to admit the justice of my con- 
clusions, and replied that he was pleased to be informed, 
that the American people were not disposed to make war 
upon Mexico, for the purpose of taking away the land from 
individual owners, and that for himself, notwithstanding the 
citizens of the Union, to his own knowledge, had often suf- 
fered, he was of the opinion that there was every good rea- 



244 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

son for the two republics to live in harmony, if it was not 
for the demagogues and aspirants to power in Mexico* who 
had not only distracted their own people, but were continu- 
ally breaking treaties formed with other powers, or else, in 
their recklessness, insulting nations with perfect wantonness. 
He said also, that he hoped their deeds would not be attri- 
buted to the Mexicans as a people, but to the military des- 
potism, by which they were governed. 

From the position of Zacatecas, it being the point where 
all travel to the city of Mexico, Tampico, or the northern 
departments, centered, it was agreeable for me, some- 
times to find a countryman journeying in some direction of 
the compass, from the most of whom I heard complaints of 
the indifferent treatment they had received from the autho- 
rities. Whether these allegations were strictly true, I can- 
not, by my own knowledge, testify, for I had not, up to that 
period of my journey, had cause to complain of oppression 
from Mexican officers, and as for the reception which I had 
everywhere met with, from citizens as well as those in 
power, it had been of the most hospitable and polite charac- 
ter, though at the same time it might have had its origin in 
respect to the commission in my pocket, and not to the citi- 
zen of the United States. 

It should be remembered that Mexico is a country of 
great extent, about three thousand miles, and that the few 
Americans who are scattered over it, might not only have 
their privileges infringed on, but their persons imprisoned 
without cause or remedy, as was the case in the department 
of Sonora, as before mentioned, at a distance of fifteen hun- 
dred miles from the minister of the United States, and for 
the reason of the wide separation from the legation, of the 
commission of a hostile act, the minister can never have an 
immediate knowledge of what has happened, so that he 
might remonstrate. 

The unfortunate individuals who may have had their pro- 
perty or their liberties wrested from them, are almost effec- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 245 

tually barred from all hope of redress, in communicating 
the facts to the American legation, as there are now no con- 
suls in the interior, for the reasons of the distance from the 
city of Mexico, and that letters by the mails fi'om Ameri- 
cans are intercepted, as has been charged by the sufferers. 
Therefore, long after the commital of one of our citizens to 
prison, for or without an alleged offence, it is only inciden- 
tally known by his execution, or a cruel death, consequent 
to the diseases produced by confinement. 

The question may arise, why do not American citizens, 
when they have suffered the loss of property, visit the seat 
of government and urge in person their complaint? The 
answer is, that the individual, bereft of means, and broken 
hearted, in the first place, feels an indifference common to 
the unfortunate, and as Mexico is the most dangerous and 
expensive country in the world to travel in, he could never 
hope to meet the minister, if he met him at all, with respect. 
It most generally happens that ruined persons are obliged, 
under such circumstances, to use daily efforts for a living : 
precisely in the same manner as the unsuspecting, uncalcu- 
lating, honest-hearted citizen, who, to meet a momentary 
relief, is wheedled out of his estate by the usurer, and when 
all his property has vanished, before his benighted infatua- 
tion is awakened, he finds himself defenceless, being too 
poor for litigation ; and thus, with a stubborn spirit, sinks to 
the scorn of the proud into his grave. 

It may not be improper, at the present time, to express 
my unfeigned pleasure in having it in my power to testify 
to the marked solicitude which Gen. Thompson felt for the 
welfare and the protection of his fellow countrymen: for dur- 
ing all my stay at the city, I can affirm, that in the frequent 
meetings I had with him, his deportment was always gen- 
tlemanly, familiarly easy, and ardently friendly to all Ame- 
ricans ; while, at the same time, his every consideration 
seemed to be engrossed in the perplexing and vexatious ne- 
gotiations he was obliged to carry on with a prejudiced and 



246 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

insulting government, located in the cranium of a Dictator, 
and his sycophantic myrmidons. 

Notwithstanding some Americans have complained of 
cruel and barbarous treatment, yet I found some who, like 
myself, are, in general, pleased with the country and the 
climate of Mexico, as also satisfied with the polite and hos- 
pitable reception they meet with from the inhabitants, both 
foreigners and natives. 

It was not until the 29th instant, that I visited the plea- 
sant retreat of the Alemada of Zacatecas. This is a lovely 
and romantic place. It is sufficient in length, but not in 
breadth. However this is not to be attributed to a want of 
good taste on the part of the citizens, for the Alemade, con- 
fined as it is between two mountains, is the only level spot 
of land within the compass of the city. It is in the form of 
an eliptic circle, having round it a stone wall, and layed off 
with two promenades, and a carriage way around it. 
There is an abundance of shrub and flower on the borders 
of the walks, and the whole is shaded by trees, receiving 
their irrigation from a large fountain in the centre. On 
each side of the Alemade, a little rising the mountain, there 
is a church, which adds much to the picturesque scene. 
Upon looking up at one of those churches I discovered 
through the branches of the trees, a monument situated in 
the front of the edifice, and, on my ascending to the honor- 
ary pile, I perceived from the epitaph that it was erected in 
honour and to the memory of Senor Don Francisco Garcier, 
who was governor of the department of Zacatecas, when 
it was taken by Santa Anna, in 1833. The bronze bust of 
the patriot is said to be a good likeness of the original, and 
was cast from an impression taken in plaster of Paris, by 
Dr. Jenkins, an English physician, who attended the de- 
ceased in his last illness. With him, the Zacatecans say, 
departed Rienzi, the last of the Romans. 

On my return from the Alemade, I met a large body of 
prisoners, who. Dr. Jenkins informed me, were the united 



f* 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 247 

brethren, being all manacled together, two and two. I 
have ever noticed, in every town and village through which 
I passed, numerous gangs chained in a like manner, and it 
should be remembered that those poor wretches were not the 
volunteers for the army, but prisoners of war and of crime, 
suffering the penalties of their different offences. The sight 
of these human beings is truly distressing, for through the 
indifference of their garments could be easily perceived the 
weight of their irons. 

The penalty in Mexico, for all misdemeanours against the 
law, is hard labour upon the streets and the public high- 
ways, excepting such where the law or the will of the judge 
requires death. The public improvements are all indebted 
to the prisoners for their completion ; for if a street is to be 
paved, a road to be made, or a bridge to be built, the pri- 
soner is the labourer, and in this way the cost to the public 
is not taken so much into consideration as if the work had 
to be let out to the lowest bidder, and paid for, when finish- 
ed, in hard dollars and cents ; but, to the contrary, the 
Commonwealth in its expenditures is but collecting its dues, 
for the prisoners owe an amount of toil which is obliged to 
be liquidated, for they must return the price required of 
them for the wickedness they have committed ; and ways 
are devised, as above mentioned, for them to comply with 
their obligations ; and in this manner the public works have 
been pursued, for the Mexicans have never been famed for 
bridge, turnpike, or canal companies. 

It has been a question which the mild institutions of the 
United States gave rise to, whether it would be better for 
the punishment of crimes not deserving death, to make sca- 
vengers and labourers of criminals upon the highways, ex- 
posed to public view, or else to confine them closely in dark 
dungeons for meditation and repentance, or keep them em- 
ployed within the walls of the prison. 

The moral influence which the penitentiary system has 
over the oiTender, is acknowledged to be the best that has 



248 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

ever been adopted in any country, to punish the guilty for 
his crime, and give ample opportunity for inward and out- 
ward atonement. Still it has been urged that the exposing 
method is better calculated to deter the innocent from fall- 
ing into the examples of the criminal, by having the punish- 
ment of crime before their view. It is contended by some 
that the guilty never reform under the chastisement of the 
law, and that degraded as he must ever be, by having suf- 
fered a penalty before the public eye, he never can feel en- 
couraged afterwards to return to the paths of rectitude and 
virtue. 

It is a source of complaint in some of the States that, 
owing to the considerable number of convicts who are kept 
industriously at work within the walls of the penitentiaries, 
the honest mechanic is injured, by glutting the markets with 
articles of his peculiar manufacture; and that the peniten- 
tiary system is an injury to the citizen, who is obliged to 
pay out of his pocket a tax to support a competition in the 
business by which he derives his bread : and thus, undesign- 
edly, the law, by its incongruity, oppresses the innocent in 
punishing the guilty. But the statute, like all other human 
devices, has its inconsistencies ; and in the mother of States 
I have seen, in one of her corporations, the public authori- 
ties sell at auction the vagrant, and the policeman for a tri- 
fle becoming the purchaser, would bind the new-made white 
slave, and force him to labour on the public highways; 
while the laws of the same State, in commendable mercy, 
incarcerate in prison, from the odium of the gaze of the 
world, him who has committed the basest of offences. I 
only mention these facts to show that, in the wisdom of 
making laws, the vagrant is in my opinion more severely 
punished, in Virginia, than the thief or the murderer. 

On my return to No. 43, I was aroused by the sound of a 
small hand-bell ; and, as there are no such pursuits as auc- 
tions in Mexico, I felt determined to know its meaning, and 
upon looking out I perceived the host on its way to some 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 24y 

penitent upon a dying bed. For the benefit of those who 
have never witnessed a scene of the kind, I will attempt to 
describe it, and if I should err in any particular, I trust that 
the good Catholic brethren will excuse me, for I can testify 
to what I have seen, not that I understood the solemn per- 
formance. 

When I had gained the front window of my room, I be- 
held a coach drawn by mules, called the Holy Ghost car- 
riage, which is kept at a church exclusively for religious 
purposes. In it was seated a priest, on the back seat, read- 
ing a small book, and before him were two boys dressed in 
scarlet robes, holding burning candles in their hands. To 
the rear of the coach were formed two lines, of about ten 
in each, who all had candles, and between these lines was a 
youth with a bell, which he tinkled slowly ; while behind 
was a motley crowd, which looked neither religious, civil- 
ized, nor savage. As the whole procession advanced, all 
the people, both in the street and the houses, fell upon their 
knees, with hands crossed upon l!heir bosoms, from which 
position they did not rise until the holy father had passed. 
I was informed that, upon the arrival of the coach at the 
house of the afflicted, the right holy man would descend, 
and, with the cross in his hand, approach the bed-side of the 
diseased, where, after confession, the sacrament was admin- 
istered, and having received the forgiveness and the bene- 
dictions of the father, the soul was prepared for the man- 
sions of the blessed. 

There was a friar who resided near my lodgings, of 
whom I observed that, whenever he rode or walked out, a 
sheep of pure long wool would always accompany him. So 
far from this being a ludicrous scene, it did appear to me as 
if there was a good moral lesson in the aspect of the friar and 
his favourite — for no one, of Christian information, could 
look upon the innocent countenance of the one, and the pious 
face of the other, without being reminded of the meek and 
lowly Iamb who was slain for the redemption of mankind. 



250 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

The friar belonged to the Guadaloupe order, called the 
Gray Friars, who are the missionaries and preachers of the 
Gospel, and I was informed were the only clergy in Mexico* 
who could have any pretensions to virtue and piety. In con- 
sequence of the high estimation in which these friars are 
held, the dead are always shrouded in one of their gowns, 
if it could be obtained — and, indeed, it was believed, that 
death was in a great degree robbed of its sting, by the dy- 
ing knowing that they were to be buried in a Gray friar's 
cloak, and a good purse do they have to pay, who are so 
fortunate as to secure this habit, more especially if it has 
ever been worn by the holy man. 

Since I have alluded to the burying of the dead, I will 
mention an enormity of crime that I never heard had an 
existence in any other country than Mexico. The grave there 
cannot escape the ladrone, and therefore the dead are never 
buried with any thing that might be accounted of utility or 
value, in order to prevent the otherwise inevitable disinter- 
ment of the deceased, as tvas the case with the remains of 
the nephew of the American consul general. Col. Wilcox. 

The gray cloak is too sacred and worthless a garment for 
the pious thieves to disturb, and besides, they are aware that 
they have to make confession of the deed. 

The coffins in Mexico are not made like ours, peaked at 
both ends, but point at the foot and expand to the head, in 
the shape of a wedge. The poor are buried in what is called 
an '* universal coffin,*' by the body of the deceased being 
carried to the grave in a box belonging to the public. When 
the corpse arrives at the grave, it is rolled out of the bier 
coffin into its shallow home ; and, in a state of naked na- 
ture has the clods heaped over it. 

Before closing this chapter, I wish to remark that I have 
devoted as much attention as to any other one thing, to the 
system of the government of the republic of Mexico, and I 
attentively marked the deleterious effects of the different 
points of misrule upon the prosperity of the country. My 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 251 



exclusive object is to make a correct statement of the po- 
litical and other affairs of unhappy Mexico that I may 
deem most prominent, so that those who are desirous may 
have a true detail of the state and standing of our sister 
republic, and this I cannot do without disregarding all ap- 
plication that m.ay be made of the facts to our own govern- 
ment or any other. 

My friend, Mr. Scott, of the mint, said that iron in Zaca- 
tecas was worth twenty-five cents per pound, which was 
more than had to be given for brass, and that it was as ne- 
cessary to weigh it to his workmen as silver, for they 
would as soon steal the one as the other. The high value 
of iron is alone accounted for, without a difference of opin- 
ion, to the protective system. 

Prohibitory duties are indiscriminately levied upon all 
hardwares, by Santa Anna. There is an abundance of iron 
ore in Mexico, said to be of excellent quality ; but, for the 
want of fuel, it cannot, but at a few places, be manufactured 
—and that only by rendering it more valuable than the pre- 
cious metals. Stone coal has never been discovered in any 
portion of the country, and it would require the fostering 
care of centuries to cultivate forests sufficient to supply the 
land with that all important article, wood, which is neces- 
sary for manufacturing purposes. The revenues of the 
country being entirely lopped off by a commerce with for- 
eign nations, the expenses of government were attempted 
to be met by direct taxation, and the bonus exacted from 
the monopoly of manufactures. 

It was said to have been no difficult matter to reward the 
Dictator's private pocket, that the public coffers might be 
defrauded of its just dues. The individual happiness of the 
people had never once been consulted, and in consequence 
of the inability of a majority of the inhabitants to meet the 
prices of wares and merchandise, the Mexicans were com- 
pelled to return to their garments of leather and skins, in 
which the first revolution found them. 



252 TRAVELS IN MEXICO- 

But for the want of fuel Mexico, in justice to itself, can 
never become a manufacturing country generally, whereas if 
this natural deficiency were once removed, she might, with the 
hope of success, compete with other nations — for the price 
of labour, the great obstacle in the way of the United States 
manufacturer, would be obviated, by its being abundant and 
cheap, perhaps as much so as with any other poor and op- 
pressed people. 

The farmer in Mexico never has to pay more than six 
dollars, one peck of corn, and a half a peck of beans per 
month for his field-hands ; while the old, the young, and the 
females are obtained at diminished rates. I am persuaded, 
from my observations of that country, and the knowledge 
of my own, that nothing can be so self-evident as that nei- 
ther the one nor the other can ever come into a successful 
competition with the old world, where fuel and labour are 
the most abundant of their resources — and that for either, 
or both of them, to attempt to carry out the principle, will 
only be to force their articles of manufacture upon their 
own population, as is the case in Mexico, at exorbitant pri- 
ces ; for European nations can aflford to sell cheaper, and 
must for ages monopolize the commerce of the world. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 253 * 



CHAPTER XV. 



My interpreter. Acquainted my interpreter with the knowledge I possessed. His remon- 
strance. Should depart in two days. Letter of introduction to Mr. John Kimble. Let- 
ters of introduction. Departed from Zacatecas. Caratilla. Unmanageable mule. Ma- 
lanoclie, the (bad night mountain.) Upsetting of caratilla. My ribs injured and inter- 
preter's collar-bone broken. Confusion. Retrograde motion. No. 43. Interpreter not 
able for fatigue. My resolve. Second departure from Zacatecas. Demanded my cash. 
Money missing. Money found. My journey. March to Frisnillo. RiJe in a Spanish sad- 
dle. House of Mr. Kimble. Opinions of Mr. Kimble. Egregiously imposed upon. Re- 
commends an interpreter. Hacienda de la Beneficio JSIinerale. Expenses. Crusliing ma- 
chine, Grinding-miU. Great square. Quicksilver. Copper bell. Silver casted solid 
lumps. Mint. Weighing of the metal. The mines of Zacatecas and Frisnilio. Took 
leaveof Mr. Kimble. Lost. Encou;iter with a Mexican. Two young men. My trou- 
bles. Coffee. Mr. K. and my inter])reter. Interpreter an intelligent man. Departure 
from Fnsnillo. Grotesque appearance. A band of robbers. Bones bleached on the 
plains. Uneasiness of my interpreter. Bound to Sain Alto. Become used to a Spanish 
saddle. Threw myself from my mule. Exchange saddle*. Alcalde's cane. Adminis- 
tration of oaths. Sufferings increased. Eat heartily at Chili. Sain Alto. Dinner. 
Cliocolate. Settlement of bill. Quarrel. Warm country. Maqiiey. Pulque. Three 
men upon the plain. My gloves. Table-land. A nipple of a mountain. Narrow defile. 
Somhrenete. Demanded water. Mule knocked the tumbler. 



It was not many days after my removal to 43, that I 
made the important discovery that my delay in Zacatecas 
was not caused by the preparations making by my inter- 
preter for my journey to Caneles, but that, like an enter- 
prising Yankee, who perceived the speculation that might 
accrue from the sale of a few stoves and clocks in that city, 
he had had some imported from New York, which had just 
arrived in time to save their distance from being rendered 
contraband, and he was profitably employed in selling his 
merchandise, so ingeniously smuggled, under the pretext of 
devoting his time in my employment. 

When this fact was imparted to me I acquainted him, 
without delay, of the knowledge I possessed, and assured 
him that I should discharge him from my service. Howe- 
ever, his remonstrances prevailed over my objections, for he 
made himself out to be as pure as an angel of light ; and, 
as I was obliged to have an interpreter, I resolved to be 



4 



254 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

more watchful of my countryman, and cause him to answer 
my purpose, as a native, by giving him to understand that 
he had lost my confidence, and that I acknowledged no 
friend but my Toledo-blade, and my six-barreled pistols ; 
for that my travels in the country had sufficiently satisfied 
me that reliance upon any other resource, for honest protec- 
tion, was folly. 

My interpreter assured me that we should take our de- 
parture in two days' time, for then, he said, my cartera 
would be finished, with all the accompanying bed- clothing. 
He also stated, that he had purchased one horse, and hired 
ten mules for transportation ; but as the plains on the way 
to Durango were of a champaign character he had put 
himself to the trouble of obtaining, for my comfort, a car- 
atilla for us to ride in. And as he could not consent to be 
idle, he said, he would have time to make sale of some 
watches he had in his possession. 

A few days after my arrival at Zacatecas I presented a 
letter of introduction I had been politely furnished with by 
an Irish gentleman in the city of Mexico, to Mr. John 
Kimble, of Frisnillo. Mr. K. I found to be a perfect gen- 
tleman, and a native of New Hampshire. During his 
residence in Zezatecas he had become wedded to a lovely 
Mexican lady. Although he was a resident of Frisnillo, 
where he was administrador of the haciendo mineral of 
that town, yet I was so fortunate as to meet him here, and 
present my letter. Through him I had to acknowledge my 
obligations for the favour of a letter from his lady to Ami 
Senora Da Fernino Bernal Lakeman, of the city of Duran- 
go. This lady is the niece of the late renowned Gen. Boli- 
var, of South America, and the wife of an American. I 
was likewise indebted to him for letters from Don Antonio 
Castrillon, judge ; to Al S'r. Sic'o D. Fernando Ramires, a 
distinguished lawyer, and ex-deputy of Mexico. The re- 
spected judge also did me the favour and honour to address 
a letter to Al Cesnio S'r. Gobernade v Commandante Jene- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



255 



ral D' Jose Antonio Heredia ; and the Hon. Bocanegra, se- 
cretary of foreign relations for Mexico, had, previous to 
my leaving the capitol, tendered me another, with a request 
that he would do every thing in his power to forward my 
intentions. The prefect, Sr. Sic. D. Viviano Beltraur like- 
wise honoured me with a letter of introduction to a distin- 
guished lawyer, of the city of Durango. 

Everything being in cbmplete preparation, my interpreter 
and self took our seats in the caratilla for our departure, 
on the morning of the first day of February, cheered with 
the hope that the journey would be a speedy and delightful 
one. However, on our very set-out, we experienced an ill 
omen, or mortification, produced by the obstreperousness of 
one of the cargo-mules, who would dash into every cross 
street and lane, much to the fright of the citizens he sur- 
prised, while the servants would spur after him with their 
lassoes, exclaiming angrily, Diablo animal, (devil animal.) 
We at length succeeded in passing through the city, after 
having attracted crowds to witness our perplexity. No 
sooner had we passed the last house of the city than we 
commenced the ascent of the Malanoche, (bad night moun- 
tain,) and we had scarcely got half-way up it, than, in defi- 
ance of all the drivers, the diablo animal turned and ran 
into the city again, which manoeuvre caused more vexa- 
tious delay. After a while, however, the mouse-coloured 
mule was recovered, when our journey was resumed. 

The Malanoche is of great height, and travelled by a 
road constructed by an English engineer, and made by the 
prisoners. The top being gained, and our descent com- 
menced, I perceived that all was not right, and quickly di- 
rected my interpreter to command the driver to halt, but, as 
soon, the wretched contrivance upset. We were sitting in 
omnibus-fashion, face to face, and as the turn was to the 
right, the left shoulder of my interpreter lodged against my 
side so violently as to injure two of my ribs. The Ameri- 
can received the greatest damage, his collar-bone being 



256 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

badly broken. I first succeeded in extricating myself, by 
passing under the heels of the harnessed mules, and imme- 
diately proceeded to tear away obstructions and rescue my 
nterpreter, who, in agony, was calling loudly for help, 
which, when done, I had time to look about and behold the 
scene. Marcellino, the driver, was bleeding at the nose, 
while the other servants were speechless, standing by, as if 
they were at mass or a burial. The animals had scattered 
over the mountain-side, while guns, swords and pistols, as 
well as Bowie-knives, were strewed all around. 

My journey was destined, from the misfortune that had 
overtaken me, to have a retrograde motion, and, v»^ith much 
anxiety for my interpreter, we hastened back to Zacatecas, 
my own distress measurably overcome by sympathy for his 
sufferings. Stopping again at No. 43, Dr. Jenkins attended 
and used his professional services for us. 

The excitement of the occasion having subsided, my mind 
naturally reverted to the long journey before me, and the 
difficulties to be overcome. My interpreter, with his frac- 
ture, would not be able to proceed, perhaps, for twenty or 
thirty days, which time, to be lost, would have interfered 
much with my arrangements, and I, therefore, determined 
not to remain for his recovery, whatever inconvenience or 
pain it might cost me ; and I accordingly ordered the ne- 
cessary preparations to be made for my departure on horse- 
back. 

Previous to my second departure from Zacatecas, disa- 
greeable facts came to my knowledge, ''respecting my in- 
terpreter. In the first instance, having demanded my cash 
of him, which, for safety and convenience, I had deposited 
in his carpet-bag, I found a deficiency in the sum I placed 
there, of two hundred dollars, which I made known to him, 
but received an answer that the money had been expended 
for necessaries. I had been careful in paying out my cash 
to take vouchers for all my expenditures, and instantly call- 
ed him to account for a general settlement. Having clearly 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 257 

demonstrated his dishonesty, I declared to him that I would 
bring before him the most respectable of the foreigners of 
the city, and, in his presence, prove the fraud and theft. 
The penitent man wept, and implored me not to expose 
him, for he was willing to return me my money ; and he 
did make good one hundred and forty dollars, promising me 
the remaining sixty at the moment of my departure. True 
to his nature, however, he managed to secui'e that amount 
to himself, and, rather tPian be longer troubled, and detained 
by him, I was advised to consent to its loss, with mortified 
regret and vexation. 

On the 4th inst. I commenced again my journey, my 
friend, Mr. Scott, accompanying me a short distance. The 
mountain past, the plain was a dead level. My day's travel 
%vas uninterrupted by any other incident worthy of remark. 
The road had also a company of troopers, who were on 
their way returning to Frisnillo, from having conducted a 
large amount of silver to Zacatecas. The soldiers upon the 
plain rendered travelling, upon that day, comparatively safe. 
By two o'clock I had ended my journey, and upon dismount- 
ing at the meson, 1 discovered that my ride in the Spanish 
saddle had greatly unmanned me ; for, from the erect and 
forward inclined position I had for several hours been 
obliged to maintain, (for there are no changes or shifts to be 
made in one of these saddles,) my bones ached, while my 
muscles were all cramped. 

Previous to my separation from Mr. Scott, I requested of 
him to direct one of my servants to conduct me, on my ar- 
rival at Frisnillo, to the house of I^tlr. Kimble. After hav- 
ing rested a short time I accompanied my servant to the 
hacienda beneficio mineral ; for that proved to be the resi- 
dence of my American friend. 

On my meeting with him, and acquainting him with the 
misfortunes that had befallen me, and my being compelled 
to travel without an interpreter, he appeared much concern- 
ed, and replied' that, though I was not very unfortunate in 
17 



258 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 



parting with my jfirst engagement, yet he considered it to be 
almost impossible for me to accompHsh my journey without 
an interpreter, as there were numberless obstacles that I 
knew nothing of to meet me on the way, and being unac- 
quainted with the Spanish language, my property and life 
were at hazard. 

Mr. Kimble informed me that our countryman and the 
Englishman, of whom my animals had been obtained, had 
grievously imposed on me, but that I would have to make 
the best of a bad bargain. He said that the only individual 
he knew who could speak English, was an American, who 
had been in his service but a short period, and from his 
limited knowledge of him he could not recommend his ser- 
vices as being what I desired. But, as I would have no 
opportunity of employing an interpreter before reaching 
Durango, I was induced to take him along. 

Mr. Kimble related that my countryman had some pe- 
culiarities, as he had been residing, in an obscure manner, 
for seventeen years with the lowest class of Mexicans, and 
had forgotten much of his mother- tongue. He therefore 
advised me to be upon my guard, and not to give him an 
opportunity of deceiving me. 

I was conducted by the polite Mr. Kimble over his haci- 
enda beneficio mineral, the largest one in the world, and 
where more silver was manufactured than at any other ha- 
cienda known. This mine is the only one worked to any 
profitable extent in the whole country that entirely belongs 
to a Mexican company. To give my readers an under- 
standing of its magnitude, and the consequent expenditures 
of raising the ores, and reducing them to silver, Mr. K. as- 
sured me that it required an outlay of fifty thousand dollars 
per week to conduct its operation. The mine is worked by 
steam-power, the fuel costing fourteen dollars per cord. 

The administrador conducted me first to the crushing 
apartment. In this extensive room were many tons of ore, 
deposited in the condition in which it was brought from 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 259 

the mine. The ore resembled fragments of stone, fresh 
hammered for a Macadamised road, each piece large 
enough to pass through an inch ring. In this form it is 
thrown under the crushing mill to be pulverised. This ma- 
chine is similar to a powder mill, with the exception that 
the beams are heavier and closer together. Having gone 
through the process of crushing, the ore is removed to the 
grinding mills, and in this hacienda there are many. 

The grinding mills are circular, and from ten to fifteen 
feet in diameter. They can be propelled by any kind of 
power, but in Mexico that of mules is most generally used. 
The bottoms are of porphyritic rock of the greatest solidity 
that can be obtained. Over this solid disk are suspended 
three long heavy stones, also of porphyry. These are held 
to their places by chains, which connect them to three hori- 
zontal beams, extending from the shaft pivot that rests upon 
the centre of the disk. The stones have their firont edges a 
little elevated, so as to receive the ore, when in motion, 
while the rear portion performs it duty by grinding it to an 
impalpable powder. 

When the ore is put into the grinder, water is from time 
to time added to it, until, in the process of pulverization, it 
acquires a thick and paste-like appearance and consistency, 
which requires much time. The process of grinding com- 
pleted, the ore is removed to the great square of the hacien- 
da, which I should judge contains about two acres of land, 
where it is deposited in circular beds of about ten feet in 
diameter, upon the pavement of the square, in the same 
manner as a brick yard. Salt, or salt earth is, in suitable 
quantities, sprinkled over the pile, as also a little proportion 
of pulverized pine bark, and if this cannot be secured, dried 
manure is used as a substitute. The whole is then trodden 
by horses for some hours, until all the parts have completely 
acquired an admixture. It is then left for three or four 
days, when a substance, prepared from copper ore, called 
micastral, is added. The whole mass is then sprinkled with 



260 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



quicksilver in considerable qaantities. It is then worked 
with horses for five or six hours, after which it is left until 
the next day, when a little water is added, being worked re- 
peatedly from day to day until the whole has effectually 
amalgamated. When this is consummated, a suitable portion 
is deposited in an elevated stone vat, so that the water may 
escape. A large amount of water is again added to the ore, 
when the whole is rapidly mixed, by a fly wheel in the vat, 
propelled by mules, just like the pool of a paper mill. 

In this process the amalgam of the mineral settles to 
the bottom, and when the whole mass has been thoroughly 
washed, the water is discharged, and the offal escapes. 
The deposited amalgam is cleansed by being filtered 
through a canvas, until it assumes a plastic state, when it is 
made into forms of triangular bricks, by means of moulds. 
These are set up into a circular mass, with interstices be- 
tween each. A copper bell is then placed over the whole, 
in the presence of all the officers of the hacienda, which is 
then covered over with charcoal, and this is kept ignited for 
about twelve hours, by which time the mercury is all subli- 
mated. Being allowed to cool, the silver is taken out in a 
pure state, ready to cast into bars. 

It requires six pounds of quicksilver to obtain one mark 
of silver, including the incorporation and the bath, which is 
the amalgamation, and in the separation there is a loss of 
the same weight of silver, as of mercury, which is a frac- 
tion, besides an additional consumption of mercury, that has 
never been accounted for„ 

During the whole of the above process of extracting the 
silver, that is to say, from the commencement of the wash- 
ing, until the fire is lighted around the bell containing the 
amalgam, the administrador has his officers summoned to 
attend, to prevent the secreting of the metal, but after the 
charcoal is ignited all is safe, for if those left to watch the 
fire, should raise the bell, the inhaling of the sublimed mer- 
cury, a certain result of the imprudence, would destroy life. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 261 

The appearance of the amalgam, -when the copper bell 
is lifted from it, is porous, like a honey-comb, which is 
caused by the quicksilver leaving the silver in sublimation. 
Thus it is perceived, that to make pure silver is no easy 
task, but requires days of labour from man, beast, and ma- 
chinery, as well as the watchfulness necessary to be bestow- 
ed on it. 

After the silver is cast into solid lumps, about the size and 
shape of pigs of lead, as seen in the United States, it is car- 
ried to the mint, when, agreeable to its weight, being pre- 
viously assayed, its value in coin is received. 

From the ofiice of the administrado, it is next carried into 
the furnace room, where the pigs are melted, for the pur- 
pose of casting them into bars, eighteen inches in length, 
one and a half broad, and a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
They are then weighed to discover if they correspond with 
the original weight of the pigs. The bars are then put un- 
der the rolling mill, where they are reduced to a flatness, 
consistent with the dimensions of the coin to be manufac- 
tured. The thin slips of silver are then taken to machinery, 
\vhere they are cut to the different sizes of money, and from 
thence to the edging mill, which prepares it to receive the 
impression of the Mexican eagle, prickly pear, bee hive, 
sun, &c. From thence it had to pass through the pickling, 
or washing apartment, where the coin is cleansed, and re- 
ceives its perfect brightness, and is rendered fit for use. 

^he silver, from the time of its being first melted into 
pigs, until it is washed, never passes from the hands of one 
workman into those of another, without the scrutiny of 
weight and counting. And thus it is, the invaluable metal, 
when scattered to the world, in its fluctuating passage, ever 
creates the greatest solicitude to its possessor, until it re- 
turns to nature, by invisible atoms. 

When examining the rich mines of IMcxico, tlie question 
has often arisen in my mind, what has, and docs become of 
the vast amounts of silver and gold that tlic industry of man 



262 TR AVEJLS IN MEXICO. 

has rescued from the depths of the earth ? It did seem to 
me that any one of the mines I examined, would supply the 
pockets of every living creature, continually, with small 
change. The mines of Zacatecas and Frisnillo are said to 
be about the oldest known in Mexico, and from their rich- 
ness, and the length of time they have been worked, have 
produced an amount of bullion that would almost seem in- 
credible. A gentleman, of high standing as a miner, in- 
formed me that it had been estimated that Zacatecas and 
Frisnillo had yielded two hundred millions of the precious 
metals. There are two kinds of silver mines, designated 
by the letters A and U, owing to the two different ways 
that veins of silver make their appearance generally. 

Late in the evening I took my reluctant leave of Mr. 
Kimble, who assured me that he would visit me at the 
meson, when my intended interpreter should arrive in town 
from the country. Upon my leaving the mine, I discovered 
that my servant had not waited for me, and that I should 
have to find my way alone to the meson in the heart of the 
city, which I had no doubt that I could easily do. I return- 
ed by the same streets, as I imagined I came, until at length 
I could not remember where I was. I hastened from street 
to street, with the hope of coming to the well-known big 
door of my meson, but none that I beheld was the one look- 
ed for. The sun was setting, and I trembled at the thought 
of finding myself lost in the town of Frisnillo at night. 

Although T felt a confusion at the idea of confessing my 
condition to any one, and had some apprehensions of conse- 
quences in letting my bewildered situation be known, I re- 
solved to speak to a JNIexican who was standing in the 
street. I accordingly said to him. Tray game diligencia 
meson ; the man gave me a piercing look, and commenced 
making a long speech in Spanish, which I silenced by re- 
peatedly saying, JVb intendi, SeTior. He, with much sur- 
prise, again stared at me, then turned upon his heels and 
walked off. I was surprised at his behaviour, for I thought 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 263 

I had asked him in good Spanish to carry me to the dihgen- 
cia meson; but what the more surprised me was, that I 
showed the rascal a rial, which in all conscience would 
have paid him well for his trouble. 

I proceeded but a little way before I met two well-dressed 
young men, who had much the appearance of foreigners, 
and I determined to accost them in plain English, but they 
shook their heads. At length one of them replied by the 
interrogation, Parley vous F? ancais 1 and with more morti- 
fication than ever, I had to give the negative answer. I 
then endeavoured, by signs, to make the gentlemen under- 
stand me, and repeating often the name of the house I wish- 
ed to find, one of them took me by the arm, and safely de- 
livered me at the meson. 

My troubles were not at an end then ; for I was so much 
distressed that I could not find my room, and not only were 
my servants wanting, but not a living soul could I behold 
upon the premises. I had to wait at least one ho«r before 
Marcelino, my principal man, arrived. He appeared to be 
as big a fool as myself, for I could not make him understand 
that I wished to be shown to my room. At last the thought 
occurred to me to say cartera, and with hastened delight he 
left me, and in a few moments returned, bearing my out- 
spread cot upon his head. With much difficulty I turned 
him about, and following him to the apartments from 
whence he brought the cartera, I found my lodgings and my 
baggage. 

Marcelino prepared me some coffee, of which I partook 
without an appetite ; but, by the time I had finished it, my 
friend, Mr. Kimble, and an Englishman, whose name I 
have now forgotten, appeared, bringing with them my fu- 
ture interpreter. Mr. K. gave me much friendly advice 
respecting my journey; and, after having exhorted my new 
man to be faithful and brave, he left with his companion, 
both taking an affectionate farewell of me, with many hopes 



2g4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

that I would triumph over every difficulty, and make safe 
my way to my port of destination. 

My interpreter, although indifferently dressed, was a re- 
markably good-looking and intelligent man. One thing, 
hov/ever, was predominant in his physiognomy — dejected- 
ness — which immediately won my sympathy for him, as I 
presumed that he had been oppressed by the misfortunes of 
the world. His conversation was free, though he had a 
slight impediment in his speech — but he did not seem incli- 
ned to indulge in vivacity of thought, as all he said was in 
as solemn a manner as preaching, and very sensible- 
Early on the morning of the 5th instant, I took my de- 
parture from Frisnillo. My servant, Marcelino, had mount- 
ed me on a beautiful little mule, which he recommended as 
being an uncommon easy pacer, and it came up to his de- 
scription, for it ambled along as gaily as though it did not 
carry a burden of one hundred and sixty-five, or seventy 
pounds. My company had a grotesque appearance. It 
consisted, besides myself, of five men all well armed, and 
ten animals. One of the mules carried my trunk and bed- 
ding, while another was loaded with my kitchen, thus leav- 
ing two for a change, or to meet casualties. 

Every thing, so far as I was able to perceive, went on 
smoothly. My interpreter kept close to my side, and as of- 
ten as he cast his eyes over the plain, and behind him. he 
would wish himself one day's journey from Frisnillo, He 
related to me the facts of an attack which a band of rob- 
bers had made, but two nights previous, upon a hacienda 
campus in sight of Frisnillo, when five of the ladrones, and 
two of the rancheros were killed. He said that, notwith- 
standing he had never attended the lectures in the United 
States, yet he was a doctor in Mexico, and that some of 
the wounded in the late action were his patients. He af- 
firmed that he cared as little about fighting as any other 
person, but that he craved a natural death, and abominated 
the thought of bleaching upon the plains. His uneasiness 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 9g5 

was considerable, and indeed had the effect of creating ad- 
ditional apprehensions with myself. 

My journey, for that day, was as far as Sain- Alto, a dis- 
tance of full fifty miles from Frisnillo. We therefore had 
no time to lose, but kept our animals pacing onwards as 
briskly as they would go. Although the previous day's ride 
had somewhat disconcerted me, the set-out of this morning 
was not as disagreeable as I imagined it would be, and I 
was in hopes that I would soon become used to a Spanish 
saddle, and feel as nimble as the best of them ; but, oh, Ge- 
nius of Mazeppa ! I had a different story to tell, for by the 
middle of the day I could bear it no longer, and in agony 
and anger, I threw myself from my easy-pacing mule, and 
tumbled upon the grass, while the little animal commenced 
feeding around me. Out of the stiff strong leathers of my 
new saddle, that held me in a position precisely as if I was 
laced in a rack before a Spanish inquisition for torture, I 
felt easy; and, from that moment, I had no doubt but that 
Spanish saddles, so called, were invented by Philip the Se- 
cond, for the iniquitous purposes of the inquisition. I ex- 
amined all the saddles of my men, and found that that of 
my intei'preter was the oldest, and the leathers could in some 
degree be made pliable, so I proposed a swap with him, 
though my own was worth twenty times as much as "his. 

At two o'clock in the evening, we stopped at a house to 
noon it. While reposing on a bed, I heard my interpreter 
say that we were safe, which caused mo to inquire the mean- 
ing of his declaration. He replied that he saw hanging on 
the wall of the room we were in, the Alcalde cane, point- 
ing to it as he spoke, and adding that he always felt safe 
when lodged in the house of an Alcalde. The commission 
of an Alcalde is accompanied with a cane, by order of the 
government, dressed off with a bunch of silk tassels, and a 
silver or gold head. The officer in authority cannot preside 
on any occasion without his cane ; neither are the people 
bound to obey him without this insignia of his power in his 



2QQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

hand. He is only the magistrate with his cane, without it 
he becomes the private citizen. 

In Mexico oaths are seldom administered ; but, when they 
are, the Alcalde crosses his fore-finger with his thumb over 
the head of his cane, and svfears his evidence in the name 
of the commonwealth. 

From the Alcalde's, where we made but a short stay, we 
pursued our journey. My sufferings increased with my fa- 
tigue, and in the evening I witnessed the going down of the 
sun without having arrived at Sain-Alto. At the hour of 
ten o'clock the town was gained, and I had the happiness of 
dismounting in the court of a large meson in that place. 

My interpreter recommended me to eat heartily of chili, 
saying that it would strengthen and relieve me ; and, not- 
withstanding that I knew the remedy was a hot one, yet, in 
despair, I felt sufficiently courageous to have taken arsenic, 
with the promise of restoration. My interpreter was fond 
of good-eating, and had ordered a plentiful supper. By way 
of encouragement to me to partake of the stewed red pep- 
per, he swallowed about a half pint of it. Thinking that 
the stimulating stuff would excite me, I did not further hes- 
itate to commence upon it ; but my fatigue was so severe 
that chili was tasteless to my palate, and I ate a hearty meal 
of it, which must have had some good effect — for that night, 
for the first time since my arrival in Mexico, I had a health- 
ful glow upon the surface. 

Early in the morning, I was aroused by the preparations 
making by my servants for a start; and, having taken cho- 
colate, a woman entered to collect the bill. I observed Mar- 
cellno at a short distance from us attentively listening and 
looking on, and as soon as my interpreter informed me of 
the amount I had to pay, I handed it over to her ; but my 
faithful servant instantly came forward, and, with angry 
gestures, and vehement articulation, commenced a quarrel 
with the woman and my interpreter, which finally resulted 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. gg-y 

in Marcelino handing me back seventy-five cents, which I 
had overpaid. I felt much pleased at what had happened, 
for my interpreter had been taught a lesson that if, through 
design or his ignorance, I was imposed upon, I was never- 
theless not defenceless. 

After we had mounted, and were leaving Sain-Alto, I 
perceived that my previous day's journey had brought me 
to a warm country, for many of the houses of that place 
were fenced in by the tall organo. This is a species of the 
prickly pear, and is not only beautiful to look at, but a cu- 
riosity in the vegetable kingdom. It is of a perfect deep 
green colour, and rises from the ground in a solid column, 
of an equal size, often reaching a height of twenty feet. It 
is regularly fluted from the bottom to the top, as if done by 
the exactness of an artist's line, rule, and compass. 

The maquey also flourished here. It is this plant which, 
I believe, is said to blossom once in an hundred years. It 
is true that the colder the latitude, the later it will flower : 
but, in the climate of Mexico, it generally blossoms once 
in seven years. Mr. Prescott remarks of it : 

" The miracle of nature is the great Mexican aloe, or ma- 
quey, whose clustering pyramids of flowers, towering above 
their dark coronals of leaves, w^ere seen sprinkled over 
many a broad acre of table land. As we have already no- 
ticed, its bruised leaves afford a paste from which paper 
was made; its juice was fermented into an intoxicating be- 
verage, pulque, of which the natives to this day are exces- 
sively fond; they further supplied an impenetrable thatch for 
the more humble dwellings; thread, of which coarse stuffs 
were manufactured, and strong cords were drawn from its 
twisted fibres ; pins and needles were made of the thorns at 
the extremity of the leaves ; and the root, when properly 
cooked, was converted into a palatable and nutricious food. 

" The maquey, in short, was meat, drink, clothing, and 
writing material for the Azotic ! Surely never did nature 



268 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



enclose, in so compact a compass, so many elements of hu- 
man comfort and civilization." 

The maquey is as luxuriant in its grovpth as that of any 
other plant that I have seen, som.etimes measuring ten or 
twelve feet across the circumference ; yet it is astonishing 
to behold, that it matters not as to the soil upon which it 
grows, it will present the same appearance of vigorous life. 
I haye seen it growing on stone walls, where not a parti- 
cle of earth could be detected by the eye, with the same 
admirable beauty as upon the rich soil. How then does this 
plant sustain itself? The regions of the upper table lands 
are arid and dry ; for no moisture can be detected in the 
atmosphere, day or night, during the dry season, apart from 
the lakes and rivers. How then does it exist 1 Is it possi- 
ble that, without earth, clinging only to the rocks to hold its up- 
right position, it must receive its nourishment from the gasses 
of the atmosphere 1 Doubtless nature in its economy de- 
signed that the periodical south-west winds that sweep over 
the plains and mountains during the dry season, from the 
Pacific, brings with it moisture from the ocean, and thus 
supplies vegetation with hydrogen, although the human eye 
and feeling cannot perceive it. And too, the maquey ex- 
celling, if any thing, in its deep green aspect and symme- 
trical and heavy leaves, yields every twenty-four hours one 
quart or more of rich fluid called pulque. In whatsoever ad- 
vantage this plant may be considered, I am compelled to de- 
cide that it is the wonder of vegetable nature. 

After v/e had travelled about three leagues from Sain- 
Alto, my interpreter called my attention to three men, who 
had suddenly made their appearance upon the plain, and it 
was not long before they commenced a rapid speed towards 
us. Marcelino drew his sword, and fell back to my side. I 
jerked my gloves from my hands, and hastily threw them 
away, and in another momicnt w^e were all prepared to meet 
the worst. Our assailants supposing, perhaps, that their re- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 269 

ception might be too warm, from the precipitous defence we 
were making, changed their direction from us, and, our 
march being resumed, they were soon lost to view. I in- 
formed my interpreter that he might have my gloves, if he 
would dismoant and pick them up ; but he declared that he 
had no intention of encumbering his hands when his life 
was in danger. The servants also all refused to take them, 
and in fact gloves are not used in Mexico when travelling, 
for no man can tell at what moment he may need the 
best use of his fingers. I determined also, that if I could 
not wear them, they should not be in the way, when I 
had a call for bullets and cartridges from my pockets. 

My journey, for that day, was over a table land, similar 
to that which I had, on the day previous, travelled. But 
towards the close of evening, a nipple of a mountain w'as 
pointed out to me, which had the resemblance of a Mexi- 
can hat, and was therefore called Soynhrereto. This peak 
overlooked a town of the same name. By the setting of the 
sun we had passed a narrov/ defile of the mountain, and ar- 
rived at the town of Sombrereto, a place which had former- 
ly been of some importance in Mexico, from the abundance 
of silver that had been extracted from its mines ; but they 
becoming unprofitable, were deserted, and tlie town left to 
decay, its inhabitants depending principally upon highway 
robbery for support. As 1 entered the town, and was pass- 
ing a large building, I was hailed by a custom-house of- 
ficer. I informed my interpreter to sa)' to the man, that I 
was an American ofiicer, and he received in reply that 
all was right; for he was under the impression that I be- 
longed to the army, and without further delay we made 
for the meson. 

No sooner had I dismounted from my animal, than I de- 
manded some water, for my moulii and throat were parched 
with thirst. A Woman of the meson handed me a pint glass 
of the pure crystal element, and having taken it, I M'as 



270 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

handing the glass back to her, with the request that it 
should be filled again, when I supposed my wearied little 
mule, who was standing by my side, craving water as 
much as myself, knocked the tumbler out of my hand. The 
woman passionately demanded fifty cents for her satisfac- 
tion, but Marcelino interposed and quieted the difficulty for 
thirty-seven and a half. Food and sleep were my next 
wants, and, in their turns, I happily devoted myself. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. g-yj 



CHAPTER XVI. 

What direction I would take. Departure from Sombrereto. Under much excitement. 
Fatigue, hunger and thirst. Hacienda Campus de les Muleros. Small red wolves. 
Sheep. Great house. Refused admittance. Hospitality of a young Mexican. His 
wife. Paixham balls. Diversion. Countrymen in pursuit of a lawyer. Understanding 
of right and wrong. Servants feet locked under a mule. Many small streams. Unsa- 
tisfied thirst. Mexicans never wash when travelling. La Ponta. Proceed to San Casan. 
Arms discharged. My duty. Corpse of two men. Travel 1400 miles. River. Iron 
furnace. The city of Diu'ango. De la Santa Paula meson. Breakfast. De Cadena 
Casa. My walk. Two plazas. Fire arms. The AUemade of the city of Durango. 
The Convento of the patron Saint. Durango, a Bishopric. One of the nine mints. My 
servant's comparisons of coins. A retired part of the Allemade. Reflections. Vale of 
delusion. Civil without religious liberty. Tom Paine. Thomas Jefferson. The great 
silence of Mexican towns. Ruin of 400 houses. Dinner. Mr. James More and an Eng- 
lishman. Snap of a pistol. Narrow escape of life. Mr. German Stalknit. His mistake. 
Letters of introduction. Signor Don Fernando Remizes. Hospitality. Reflections. 
Dwelling of Remizes. Furnituie. Libraries of the ex-Deputy. His character. Sufiia- 
ges for President. Introduction. Liberality. History of the United States. Alicraua. 
Harcourt. Courtesy of the Governor of Durango. Mr. John Belden. The people of 
Durango. Bishop of Durango. The Bishop's character. Cotton manufacture of the 
Stalknits. College of Durango. Education. Change of dress. Best of arms. To Bi- 
vouac. A tent. Letters of introduction from the Governor. Remizes. Ten loads of 
silver. 

My interpreter informed me, that previous to our leaving 
Sombrereto, it would be prudent to deceive the people of 
that town, as to what direction I would take on my depar- 
ture from it. I consented to his design of sending one of 
my servants into the streets to answer inquiries, by saying, 
that business had brought me there, and that I should on the 
following day go back whence I came. Marcelino pre- 
ferred to perform the task, and on his return seemed to be 
delighted with his success. He said that he related to the 
people that my journey not only terminated at their town, 
but that it possibly was my intention to open a mine there ; 
which information much delighted the impoverished citi- 
zens. 

On the morning of the 7th inst. I took my departure from 
Sombrereto. My animals were driven out of the eastern 
end of the town, the same direction that I had entered it. 
No sooner, however, had we become obscured by the 



272 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

houses, than we turned directly to the north, and having 
ascended a spur of a mountain that put us upon a plain, we 
hastily continued the same course for about two leagues, 
when Marcelino, who was well acquainted wdth the coun- 
try, suddenly tacked due west, and after travelling one 
league, he resumed his proper direction of north. During 
all this time my interpreter and servants seemed to labour 
under much excitement, by continually straining their eyes 
to the rear, and over the table land. Marcelino said it was 
true, that he had no property to lose, but that the ladrones 
never spared the servants ; for they called them poor lazy 
devils, and flogged them severely; while the master would 
be discharged, if he surrendered hke a gentleman, with 
many thanks and applause for his industry and accumula- 
tion of money and valuables. Upon separating with him 
they would advise him to have at least as much for them, 
if they should again meet him, for if he should not, his fate 
would be that of his servants, if not death. 

My jounley, on this day, was uninterrupted, saving by 
fatigue, hunger and intolerable thirst ; for we found neither 
pool nor stream of water. The country through which we 
travelled was uneven and rolling; but during the latter part 
of the day the plain became a dead level, and, from first, 
having to travel through the low musquito-growth, we came 
to a cove of broad shady trees, small, and thinly scattered 
over the land, which might be denominated a forest. 

Just before the set of sun we hove in view of the castle 
of the Hacienda campus de los Muleros, (a place of mules,) 
yet every other kind of stock and vegetation was raised and 
cultivated there, for it was one of the finest estates that I 
had ever beheld. The sight of the premises was most con- 
genial, for it was the first house that I had seen the whole 
day ; although it was full five miles from me, it promised 
repose from my toils, at no very distant period, and I felt 
cheered with the hope. Presently we came upon a gang 
of small red wolves, common in Mexico, and then we ap- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 21^3 

preached a herd of many thousand sheep: at length we 
passed the ranchos of the place, and arrived immediately in 
front of the great house. 

One of my servants, who had been sent before me to the 
castle, informed me that the administrador had said, that 
there was no spare room for strangers ; for the house was 
filled with corn, saving one apartment for himself and wife; 
and that I would have to seek lodgings in one of the ran- 
chos. The servant also stated, that there was much excite- 
ment with the people, resulting from the fact of two mur- 
ders, that had been committed that day, near Muleros. I 
felt perplexed and disappointed in not being decently housed, 
for I had never yet lodged in a filthy rancho. 

However, there was one other good building at the place, 
from which a well-dressed young Mexican came out, and 
invited me to accept a room in his dwelling. I thanked 
him for the offer, which I accepted. Mine host was a gay 
and conversant gentleman, who had but a few weeks been 
wedded to a bouncing black-eyed Mexican girl. He in- 
formed my interpreter that the proprietor of Muleros was a 
very inhospitable man, and that he believed that he had a 
part in all the many robberies and murders which happened 
in that quarter. As for myself, the scape-gallows look of 
the man was conclusive evidence of the truth of this as- 
sertion. 

In the morning we resumed our journey in good spirits. 
My interpreter appeared not to be satisfied with the arms 
with which I had furnished him, and had secured some 
large round stones, which he called his Paixham balls, which 
he threatened to burst against the administrador, after his 
shots were expended, if he should attack us. There was a 
small and rapid stream, that flowed through the dominions 
of Muleros, and for several miles from its banks were cot- 
ton-wood trees of handsome growth, pleasing to the sight of 
the traveller in this hot, barren and thirsty country. 

During that day several things occurred of a diverting 
18 



274 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

nature. First, in passing by an extensive corn-field, I per- 
ceived up a distant tree, in the midst of the corn, a nest, 
and, as I really imagined, a bird in it, and observed to my 
interpreter that there was the largest sopilote that I ever 
beheld. He laughed heartily, and informed me that it v^as 
nothing more nor less than a Mexican wrapped in his sera- 
pi, guarding his crop. Crops in Mexico are watched both 
day and night, to prevent the stock, and two-legged thieves, 
from molesting it. 

Again, we had not proceeded much farther, before a man 
came galloping up to us, and commenced addressing him- 
self to me. Upon inquiring of my interpreter what this in- 
dividual wanted, he informed me that the countryman had 
supposed me to be a lawyer, and that he wanted my advice 
against his partner in a crop of corn, in a suit for damages. 
I directed him to say to the man, that he had mistaken my 
caUing, but that Marcelino had been, on some occasions, 
my advocate, and he might do well, perhaips, to consult 
with him. Tlie man thanked me for the intelligence, and 
instantly spurred to the side of my servant, and, for several 
leagues, the client and counsellor discussed the merits of the 
cause, while my interpreter rapidly translated the conversa- 
tion for me, much to my entertainment. 

The suit of the complainant, and the decision of the case 
by Marcelino, was only but one other evidence, to me, of 
the entire want of a proper understanding of right and 
wrong among the Mexicans. Fraud and dishonesty in 
transactions are so prevalent amongst them, that they have 
no proper conception of how to discriminate justice from 
injury : and in their honest convictions of judgments, as 
well as the case in regard to Marcelino, the impossibility of 
separating low cunning and chicanery from equity is a task 
too severe, resulting from their practices and habits of 
thinking — just in the same manner, as it is said, of a law- 
yer, who has long appeared for the commonwealth of any 
country, that his judgment is so biased against the-commis- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 275 

sion of crime that he cannot be convinced that any are in- 
nocent, or that there are any palliating circumstances in 
their favour attending the acts they are charged v^ith. 
Hence it is that mankind has to mourn under a heavy 
weight of civil and piously bigoted oppression, perverting 
to its peculiar uses the statutes of God, the broad basis of 
which are the only fundamental principles of reason and 
law. 

I am aware that travellers often see things, which, to 
those who have never been abroad, are, as St. Paul says, 
'■^ hard to believe," and hence I have let incidents escape 
me that might have informed and entertained the minds of 
many. 

To those who have seen the large spurs of the Mexicans, 
what I am going to relate will not seem incredible. The 
countryman, having finished his discourse, put off in full 
speed to find, perhaps, other advisers. But one of my ser- 
vants, being wickedly disposed, started after him, to bring 
him back for future sport. It was not long, however, before 
he came back, calling lustily for help. My first thoughts 
were, that some banditti had made their appearance, but, 
as the poor man rode up to us, I soon perceived the amount 
of his distress. His heels were confined under his mule by 
his spurs being locked together ; the long rowel of the right 
one having hooked itself to the chain of the left, that hangs 
under the foot. The man was as closely united to his ani- 
mal as if he had been secured by lock and key ; and the 
little machacho was not altogether out of distress, for the 
long prongs of the spur were continually jading him, and 
it could not be told when the tortured creature would take 
fright, and perhaps kill its rider. Amid the shouts and 
bursts of laughter of his compeers his shackles were un- 
loosed, much to his relief. Such occurrences, my inter- 
preter informed me, were not before unknown, for he had 
freed others, whom he had overtaken on the road, who had 
suffered in this way for hours. 



276 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



My journey, for the most of this day, was close to, and 
parallel with a mountain, from whence flowed many small 
streams. The sight of the mountain^brooks had an incon- 
ceivably delightful aspect, recalling to my mind the cooling 
fountains of the Alleghanies, where my thirst had been so 
often satisfied by pure water, — the first, the second, and the 
third of these streams were, in their turns, stopped at, but 
with no satisfaction, for they were all strongly tinctured 
with copperas, deep green deposites of which enveloped the 
rocks, and covered the beds of the streams. As I could not 
relieve my dried and parched lips with the water, I resolved 
at least to wash my hands and face in it, but the Mexicans 
making so many objections to this, I desisted for their sa^ 
tisfaction. 

The Mexicans never wash when travelling, believing it 
to be injurious to their health, and, indeed, they object to 
the constant use of water, being of the opinion that the dirt 
on their faces is less pernicious than the diseases engendered 
by the use of this liquid to remove it ; this being a tempe- 
rance carried beyond the principles of the societies of the 
United States ; and thus I had to perish in the midst of 
plenty. 

It was my intention to travel that day as far as La Ponta, 
but from the fatigue, which is better understood by those 
who have had to endure it, than the idea can be conveyed 
by description, I was advised by my interpreter to proceed 
no farther than San Causin, which place was then discerni- 
ble, from our elevated position, some three leagues from us. 
With our quarters in view our pace was quickened, for 
there all our wants were to be supplied. We were thus 
progressing, when, suddenly, we discovered six men ad- 
vancing in front of us. Overpowered with the toils of the 
day, I thought not, and cared as little, of dangers that might 
be brooding, and, not until it had been accomplished, did I 
perceive that my servants had driven my animals to one 
side, and my interpreter had also left the straight-forward 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 277 

road, apprehending some evil, as the advancing party were 
better mounted and equipped than any others we had met. 

Not having acted in concert with the movement of my 
men, timorously resolving not to yield a foot, I passed them, 
brushing the very points of some of their spears, at the 
same time holding my finger on the trigger of my double- 
barreled gun, as it lay on my lap, which was pointed di- 
rectly at them. My servants all stopped to witness the ren- 
contre, but it all passed away by hard looks. When I 
rejoined my party, my interpreter declared that he had ne- 
ver witnessed so fearless an experiment, for he confidently 
believed that I would be killed. I told him that I was con- 
scious of having committed no act of rashness, and that, in 
all probability, the incident had saved us from a battle, as 
the party we met were no travellers, for they were without 
animals, or baggage of any kind. 

It is the rule in Mexico, for the weaker party always to 
give the way. Our companies were equal ; but, as I had 
extra animals, I certainly was entitled to the road. And if 
armed men, who are not travellers, do not give the road, it 
is conclusive evidence, as I had been advised, of their hos- 
tile intent. We arrived in safety at San Causin, a hacienda 
campus. The water was good ; the tortillas, the frijoles, 
the chili and the stewed mutton, were all, to a hungry man, 
delightful ; and sleep, on that night, was never more refresh- 
ing. 

On the following morning, all of my men being in readi- 
ness to recommence the journey, which was that day to put 
me in the city of Durango, I gave orders that all of our 
guns and pistols should be discharged and reloaded, which 
had not been done since we left Zacatecas, as I felt desirous 
of witnessing the performances of our weapons. The vol- 
ley we fired was equal to a commandant's salute, as we 
numbered about forty rounds, eighteen of which were from 
my own person and saddle. 

At every place we stopped, accounts of murders and 



278 THAVELS IN MEXICO. 

robberies were detailed. The ladrones of Mexico are like 
the musquitoes on the Mississippi, the people saying always 
that, with them, there are few if any, but that a little way 
beyond they become very plentiful. I felt it to be my duty 
to be prepared, at whatsoever place it might befall me to 
meet with them, and we prosecuted our journey. We had 
not travelled more than five leagues before we came upon 
the corpses of two men, who had been murdered the day 
previous ; one of them appeared to have come to his end 
by a bullet — the other had several shocking sabre wounds. 

On this day I had to cross the same river twice. The 
last time I was ferried over in a dug-out, which cost me one 
dollar and a half, though my animals had to swim across 
with the Mexican who drove them. I had then travelled 
about fourteen hundred miles in Mexico,, and of the few riv- 
ers that I had seen, none of them was above a moderate 
stone's throw across. 

The countiy over which I had passed was thinly covered 
with musquite growth, and some cotton wood; but, upon 
being landed over the ferry, I was upon the plain of Duran- 
go, a beautiful level country. Although the table land was 
totally divested of timber, yet the mountains of Durango 
towered with the pine, the cypress, and other species of 
trees ; and, near to the city, Mr. Lakeman, an American, is 
the proprietor of an iron furnace. 

On the 9th instant, at nine o'clock at night, I entered the 
city of Durango, and put up at the De la Santa Paula me- 
son. The following morning, being Sunday, I determined 
that I would rest, being much fatigued after the last five 
days' travel. 

I did not take my breakfast until ten o'clock,, which being 
over, I felt desirous of recreation by walking ; and, having 
invited my interpreter to accompany me, I entered the 
streets, for a promenade in the Alemade, if I could find it. 
The meson joined a large religious edifice, in which the 
inquisition was formerly located. It is called De Cadena 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 279 

Casa, the chain-house. From that building, for some few 
days in the year, a chain was extended across the street, 
during which time, if any individual committed any offence 
or crime against the law, and he could lay hands upon 
that chain, before arrested by the legal authorities, he esca- 
ped all future molestation or prosecution. Thus crime was 
encouraged through the instrumentality of religion. This 
custom had its origin from the heathenish sanctuary institu- 
tions, but it has been abandoned by the Christian church, 
in hoih Europe and America. 

My walk extended round the principal plaza, upon the 
eastern side of which the government house is situated, 
where all the public business is transacted. It is also used 
as a garrison for the army. On the western side is the go- 
vernment palace, the residence of the governor and general 
of Durango. My way was then directed through the de 
Commercio plaza, the commercial plaza, where all kinds of 
fruits, provisions and merchandise were offered for sale — 
promiscuously spread upon the pavement; and in such places 
my interpreter informed me the ladrone vended such earn- 
ings as he desired to part with. 

My interpreter took a fancy to a handsome gun, in the 
possession of a very poor Mexican ; and he said that he 
Avould prove to me that the man stole it, by his taking one- 
third of its value for it. The gun I supposed to be worth 
twenty dollars, but the man, after some jewing, agreed to 
take ten. 

The Alemade of the city of Durango was as lovely and 
delightful a retreat as I had ever in my life enjoyed. A 
grove of trees shaded its clean walks and seats, whilst a 
fountain of water refreshed and cooled the atmosphere. It 
is located between the Plaza de los Torros and the town, 
and commanded a view of the plain, the city, and the ex- 
tended mountains around, and a more picturesque scene I 
never beheld. The Convento of the patron saint of the 
town was situated upon a romantic mound of earth and 



2S0 .TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

Stone. The view from this edifice excels the imagination 
of poet and artist, and exceeds any other scene of the kind 
ever before exhibited to my view. The city of Durango 
appeared to cover about the same amount of space as the 
city of Mexico. The buildings are not so high, but are, 
otherwise, not less in dimensions. 

Durango is a Bishopric, and the two high steeples of the 
cathedral towered far above those of the many other church- 
es and convents of the place. 

At Durango has long been established one of the nine 
mints belonging to the government. It was not a little amu- 
sing to see my Zacatecas servants comparing the coins of 
their own city with those of Durango ; while one of them 
said, satirically, that the bird on the Durango coin looked 
more like a sopilote (buzzard) than the Mexican eagle. An- 
other responded that he would be rejoiced if either of the 
fowls would build a nest in his pocket, and hatch young 
ones there. The inhabitants of Durango were fewer than 
I had supposed, judging from the extent of the city. I was 
informed that the population did not exceed thirty thou- 
sand. 

While seated under a shade, in a retired part of the Ale- 
made, my thoughts were interrupted by the natives actually 
stopping to gaze at me — and casting my eyes upward to the 
pure, bright, serene expanse of heaven — for scarcely in nine 
months does a spot of cloud as big as a man's hand appear 
in the skies of Mexico — then beheld the mountains subHme- 
ly reaching as it were to the regions of upper air — the mas- 
sive compactness of a large city, in the midst of the plain 
beneath — the solemnity of the Mexican countenance, and 
the profound stillness of the whole scene ; for from that 
vast multitude no sounds were sent up to break the sadness 
of nature, and the gloom of a dense town, my mind was 
filled with a pleasing melancholy, and from my heart I 
hoped that the time might come when the Mexicans would 
be happy ! when the veil of delusion that hangs between 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 281 

them and that independence which the plastic hand of their 
Creator has endowed them with, would be split in twain ; 
when their judgment would be untrammelled, and their con- « f^^ '^ 
science no longer made a commerce of ! then, and not till ^ 

then, could I imagine Mexico to be free, and enjoy the tran- 
scendent beauties and bounties of nature with which she has 
been blessed. For I am persuaded that there cannot be 
civil, without religious liberty ; apart, they are a mutual aid 
to each other ; united, they both degenerate and sink to a 
wedded corruption, too impure for the respect of man, and 
too vile to be acceptable to God ! If good ever came out 
of evil, it was by Tom Paine's works, during the American 
revolution ; and if glory ever covered a benefactor of the 
human family, it was when Thomas Jefferson first set the 
example of dissolving the union of church and state, and 
penned, for the constitution of Virginia, the declaration of 
independence and the liberty of conscience. 

The great silence that prevails in Mexican towns is re- 
markable, when the church bells ai-e not ringing, and from 
the garrison the clang of the trumpet-horn is no longer ^ 

blown. From twelve to three o'clock in the afternoon all 
is still, and from a distance no sound is heard ; and, in fact, 
in the hot valleys, and on the coasts, the doors of the houses 
are all locked, and the inhabitants so wrapped in sleep that 
a traveller might ride throuo;h the streets of a town without 
seeing a human being. 

The city of Durango had, in the month previous to my 
arrival, suffered a heavy calamity, which resulted in the 
serious damage, more or less, and the ruin of four hundred 
houses. The cause of this destruction of property had its 
origin from the heavy rains that had fallen, which had so 
saturated the sun-burnt bricks, that the crumbling walls 
w^ere not able to support the roofs, and of course they tum- 
bled in. It was not in the knowledge of any one that, in 
in the month of January, it should rain, and none of the in- 
habitants had ever experienced in the wet season so great 



282 ' TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

and continued a fall of water, as came so unexpectedly upon 
them. The sudden rise of the streams and small rivers was 
so rapid as to do much damage to the haciendas, as also to 
drown stock, and wash down houses. 

On my return to the meson, my servant brought me my 
dinner, and while myself and interpreter were eating, two 
gentlemen entered the room, one of whom introduced him- 
self to me as Mr. James Moore, an American, from the 
State of Tennessee ; the other was an Englishman, whose 
name I have lost. The latter individual appeared to have 
been indulging too freely that day, and as we were all seat- 
ed, and I was finishing my dinner, I happened to look to- 
wards the Englishman, Who I perceived had my large rifle 
pistol in his hands, with the muzzle pointed immediately at 
my head, for I could see down into the barrel, while his fin- 
ger was pulling at the hammer. I politely informed him 
what he was doing, and requested that he would turn the 
weapon in another direction, or else lay it down ; he replied 
that he had never killed any one, and well understood the 
use of arms. Thinking that the man would have some re- 
gard for what I said, I continued my repast of lettuce 
and stew ; but no sooner had I taken my eyes from him 
than I heard the snap of the pistol, and without thought I 
sprung from my seat, while the first self consciousness I 
possessed was, that I had wrested the heavy weapon from 
his hand, and had it uplifted in the air above his head. So 
pending was the fatal blow, that my poised arm seemed to 
trernble over him, on the verge of the almost impossible 
checking of the deadly fall. The terrified man sat motion- 
less and speechless for a time, and then, to my satisfaction, 
left the room ; for in turns each of us had been on the brink 
of eternity. I never knew that pistol, before or since, fail 
to explode a cap, and would not for the world that the same 
experiment should happen. After some hours the English- 
man returned, and, in his apologies for what had taken 
place, thanked me for his life, and the lesson I had taught him. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 283 

On Monday morning, the 11th inst., feeling sufficiently 
refreshed for business, I looked over my letters, and found 
that all were in my possession but one, addressed to Mr. 
Germain Stalknit, a German by birth, and a gentleman who 
had been highly recommended to me as a high-minded and 
honourable man. Such was the character of Mr. S., that 
notwithstanding I had mislaid or lost his letter, I determined 
to make him a visit, and introduce myself to him, and for 
this purpose I procured a guide to conduct me to his house. 

On entering the great door of his palace, for palace in- 
deed it was, if splendour and large dimensions can consti- 
tute such a thing, I was shown a door to the right hand, 
and upon going to it, I perceived two gentlemen engaged in 
the endless employment (in Mexico) of counting dollars and 
weighing gold. One of them, who proved to be the gen- 
tleman I was desirous of seeing, without my having first 
spoken, said, " Doctor Gilliam, I am glad to see you, be 
seated, and when my brother and self have finished our pre- 
sent engagement, I shall be happy to converse with you." 

It was not long before the accomplished gentleman again 
turned to me, and I in my turn addressed him, by saying, 
that it was true he had given me my right appellation, but 
that I was a person whom he had never seen : to which he 
replied, " Are you not Doctor Gilliam, United States Consul 
to Monterey ?" To his surprise, I informed him that I was 
the brother of the individual he had mistaken me for. It 
was all the same with the two German gentlemen, for they 
seemed to be as cordial and familiar with me, as if we had 
been intimate all our lives. 

I acquainted Mr. S. of my having once been in possession 
of a letter addressed to him from Zacatecas; but that on that 
morning I was unable to lay my hand upon it. I then pre- 
sented him the letters I have before mentioned, and his po- 
liteness induced him to proffer his services in handing them 
to the individuals to whom they were directed. It proved 
that Senor Don Fernando Ramires was the brother-in-law 



284 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

of Mr. Germain Stalknit. He insisted that I should dine 
with him that day, and said he would accompany me in the 
evening to Don Fernando's, and from thence to the Govern- 
ment Palace. 

Such hospitality to a stranger, old Virginia like, can but 
be gratefully felt. I have heard the selfish object to extend- 
ing kindness to the unknown, whom chance or business may 
have thrown in their towns or country, as if the world was 
made alone for them. By a liberal state of society, the 
stranger receives a benefit, while those, who in duty bestow 
it, are done no injury ; and if time should prove that he was 
unworthy of attention, there is yet a pleasing reflection, 
that the subject has received a lesson in politeness, and per- 
haps is thereby instigated to refrain from evil company and 
bad deeds, and reform his manners. No well-bred commu- 
nity will slight, or indifferently treat an apparent gentleman, 
who in reality is as good as themselves. However, high 
life below stairs sometimes exposes itself, and is subjected 
to reproach, when otherwise it might have done honour to 
itself, at least have nothing lost. 

Dinner being over, Mr. S. conducted me to the dwelling 
of Senor Don Fernando Ramires. My friend, without ce- 
remony, entered the house, and I at once perceived that the 
large and elegant establishment was well furnished, being 
much in the style of the houses in the United States, the 
chairs and sofas perhaps having been imported thence by 
the way of Mazetlan. It happened that the proprietor was 
not in, and Mr. S. said that he would take the hberty of 
showing me the library of the ex-Deputy. 

I accepted the invitation, and was conducted to a large 
room, not under thirty feet long, by twenty feet broad and 
in height. It was filled all around, from floor to ceiling, as 
my friend informed me, with Spanish law books. 

On a large table in the centre of the room, lay piles of 
documents, besides the open authors of his recent consulta- 
tion. Having lool^ed in the face of many of the old volumes 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



285 



which I could not understand, I was invited into an adjoin- 
ing apartment, much larger, containing a greater number of 
folios. Mr. Stalknit related, that that was his general libra- 
ry, and contained works upon every branch of learning, and 
of several languages. 

Fernando Ramires was certainly a great man, and a 
patriot, and as an evidence of his purity and good sense, he 
had that year resigned his seat in the House of Deputies, to 
which he had been elected for many years, pubHcly assign- 
ing as his reason, which was much for any man to do, at 
that time, in Mexico, that he could no longer consent to 
serve under a usurping Dictator, who had trampled the con- 
stitution under his feet, and, by force of arms, driven the 
deputies from their seats. 

If the people of Mexico knew how to enjoy and maintain 
their liberties, such a civilian as Ramires would receive 
their suffrages as President, instead of their supporting, by 
their bayonets, a throne for ambitious military chieftains. 
But the libraries and wealth of this good man were not the 
most valuable of his possessions, for he was the father of a 
lovely and accomplished daughter, who could fluently con- 
verse in French and English as well as in Spanish. Her 
education^ and refinement, obtained by dint of application, 
were of the first order, and would have made her pre-emi- 
nently attractive in any country. 

Our conversation and examination of books delayed us 
until the honourable lawyer entered his study. Upon being 
introduced to him, his manly and dignified bearing came up 
to every thing I had imagined of a man of his character. 
He had a round full bust, full face, eyes that sparkled with 
genius, high forehead, a little bald; his stature was about 
the common height. I conversed with him on the subject 
of legal business, for which he positively refused any remu- 
neration. He gave me written instructions how to proceed, 
and requested that I should let him immediately know, if I 
required future aid. 



2gg -TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

He informed me, through Mr. S., who acted as our mu- 
tual interpreter, that he was studying the English language, 
and showed me a copy of Marshall's Life of Washington, 
and the Federalist, in English. He said he was desirous of 
knowing what was the best history of the United States, and 
I had the mortification of replying that there were none of 
the many histories of the country considered the best, and 
that its history was yet imbedded in the archives of the 
United States papers, as well as the lives of the prominent 
n^en. I told him, that so far as I was informed, the future 
historian had to bear off the palm of having written the best 
history of the Union. He seemed very desirous of obtain- 
ing information of my country, and asked me many ques- 
tions appertaining to it. The evening having been con- 
sumed at Sen. Don Fernando's, my visit to the Governor 
was deferred until the next morning. 

That night, after my return to my quarters, the keeper of 
the meson gave me warning of the Alicrans, a species of 
scorpion, and how to elude their sting. The lodger must, 
previous to his reposing, tuck all the b^d clothing under 
the mattress of his cartera, so that none of them may touch 
the floor for the venomous reptile to crawl upon. No por- 
tion of the bed must touch the walls of the room, and the 
individual must sleep with his entire head and body covered, 
to prevent the fall of the insect from the ceiling. 

The alicran is of a reddish complexion, and about the 
size and shape of a small lizard. Its legs are hke those of 
a spider, and at the point of its tail is a short curved sting, 
not longer than that of a bee. No sooner does he touch a 
human being, than he hooks him with this poisonous weapon, 
always fatal, at Durango, to children, and most painfully 
distressing to grown persons ; producing a deHrium, and 
violent spasmodic affections, with frothing at the mouth. 
The alicran is more poisonous at Durango than in any other 
portion of Mexico. This fact cannot be attributed to any 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



287 



known cause, unless it should be from the mineral of the 
earth it lives in. 

I was informed that there are families in Durango, who 
make their subsistence by catching these insects, the go- 
vernment paying them a premium for each one destroyed. 
After night the alicran catcher passes along the street with 
a torch in his hand, and the little reptile runs out of his cre- 
vice, attracted by the light ; but he no sooner appears, than 
he is struck from the wall by a brush, and as soon as he 
touches the pavement, a handful of sand is thrown upon 
him, when the expert catcher dexterously picks him up and 
extracts his sting ; after which he deposits him in a bottle 
alive, and receives his reward from the proper authority. 
Citizens, who wish it, have to pay extra for the search of 
their rooms. 

On the 12th instant, I had the honour of being presented 
to Cesmo Sir Gobernador y Commandant General D Jose 
Antonio Heridia. The governor was a fine looking, intel- 
ligent gentleman, and received me with much courtesy. I 
did myself, on this occasion, the distinction of showing the 
general an American uniform. After some conversation, I 
retired, leaving him uninterrupted in his multifarious public 
duties. From the government house I went to that of Mr. 
John Belden, an American, of the city of New York, who 
had invited me to dine with him that day. Mr. B. had been 
successful in business, and had accumulated a large fortune; 
and whether or not to please himself or the Mexicans, I 
cannot say, he often wore costly diamond jewels, and hence 
he was called the Prince of Diamonds. 

The people of the city of Durango, both foreign and na- 
tive, seemed to be of a better order than any others I had 
seen in all Mexico. This, possibly might result from the 
circumstance of having such men as Ramires residing 
amongst them. The Bishop of Durango, also, was the only 
pious man that I heard of during all my travels in that 



288 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

country. His name, I regret to say, has been lost with 
others from among my papers. 

This celebrated and beloved Bishop is said to be truly re- 
ligious. I was informed by a distinguished citizen that, sa- 
cred to his vow, he never had a female to enter his house, and 
that all of his servants were men ; a fact unknown in rela- 
tion to any other clergyman in the country. His father con- 
fessor accompanied him on every occasion, and regularly, 
three times a day, he made confession. 

The Bishop was a man of deep sympathies and sensibili- 
ties, which was evinced by his grief at the death of an, 
American, J. V. Crannell, M. D., for whom he had a high 
regard. It is said that .the good man sat daily by the bed- 
side of the doctor, and, upon his decease, gave special di- 
rections for his funeral ceremonies. I was informed they 
were very splendid, and it required two days to do the hon- 
ours to the dead. The worthy Bishop did not himself, how- 
ever, partake of this ostentation ; but, with great distress, 
for thirty days confined himself to his room, suffering no 
one but his confessor to come into his presence. The pious 
man is much respected, and feared by his clergy and laity. 
The priests, on the other hand, take good care to buy in- 
dulgences to hve with their unmarried wives. It should not 
be astonishing that, with such highly honourable men as 
Ramires, and the Christian Bishop, the morals and manners 
of a community should be improved. 

At Durango there is one college, having foreign and na- 
tive professors. The pubHc school system, as regulated by 
law in the department, I very much admired, as being the 
only one perhaps by which to compel education upon the 
people. They are taxed for the support of the schools, 
upon the more perfect plan of the Prussian district system, 
and it is made the imperative duty of every teacher to re- 
port to the Alcalde each parent or guardian, who has chil- 
dren of six years of age and upwards, who neglects to send 
them to school. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO:. 289 

The parent or guardian, as the case may be, is then sum- 
moned to appear before the court, to show good cause why 
he does not send his children to school ; and, failing to do 
so, is fined, or punished by imprisonment, until his child is 
permitted to enjoy its privilege and natural right. Would 
that the laws of some of the States of the Union would thus 
compel unkind parents to educate their offspring, who are 
provided for by the law of the land, but are refused the boon 
by hard-hearted and unnatural parents. 

My stay in the city of Durango was but four days, when 
much to my regret I had to exchange my American dress 
for the Mexican jaceti, a roundabout jacket. Long-tailed 
or frock coats are never worn, excepting at the capital, or 
by foreigners ; and, as a gentleman informed me, if a man 
should be seen riding in any other apparel than that of a ja- 
ceti and leather pants, he would be looked upon as a mon- 
ster, and accordingly almost stoned to death. It is very 
important to conform to Mexican costume, both to gratify 
Mexican vanity, as also to disguise yourself as a native, for 
the traveller cannot know when he may hear the exclama- 
tion, " Death to all foreigners !" The handy and comforta- 
ble little jacket I did not at all regard, but it was the heavy 
weight of iron and steel with which I was obliged to en- 
cumber myself and saddle ; for to my belt was a powder- 
flask, a bag of bullets, two six and one single barrel pistols, 
a bowie-knife and a sword ; while looped to the horn of my 
saddle was a double-barrel gun, holsters with two pistols, 
and my nine inch barrel rifle pistol, hanging to my right, on 
the skirt of my saddle. 

Such a formidable display of weapons might appear sav- 
age and intently bad in any other country, but such are the 
customs of Mexico ; and notwithstanding I fell short of the 
full complement of twenty-six rounds ; yet, as it was my 
intention never to surrender " like a gentleman," as the la- 
droncs have it, I felt desirous to be as well prepared for bat- 
tle as the best of them ; or, as my interpreter often expressed 
19 



OQQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

himself, " it looked so respectable, for a Mexican would 
never deign to take his hat off to a traveller unarmed." 

As in the journey before me I should be often obliged to 
bivouac in the open air, I had 'provided myself M^ith a tent, 
as also an additional supply of London pickled salmon, and 
ham, crackers and jerked beef. At Durango I was advised 
to employ a guide, as no one could find the way to Canales, 
excepting those who had travelled the mountains. I did not 
discharge my interpreter here, for the reason that I found 
no serious complaint to lodge against him, and for fear that 
in an exchange I might not obtain a better one. 

The governor of Durango having furnished me with let- 
ters to the Alcalde of Canales, and the prefect of Tamazu- 
la, recommending them to forward me in all of my designs, 
and all other necessary preparations having been made, I 
gave the order, bamanos, (let us go,) a word always used 
for the signal of departure, and took up my line of march 
to Cacario. My friend, Mr. Stalknit, had at that time des- 
patched ten loads of silver for Mazatlan, and I was recom- 
mended to join company with the conductor of it, which I 
did ; and although his men were all armed well, with the 
exception of a boy, who carried a gun without a lock, yet 
I cannot say that I considered it altogether prudent ; for, 
while I might be of assistance to him, the money he had in 
charge was a superinducement for the attack of marauding 
parties. 

While at Durango, the two brothers, Stalknits, invited me 
to a ride of two miles in the country, to visit their cotton 
factory. The buildings of their establishment were as com- 
modious as any others I had seen of the kind in the Union, 
working twenty thousand spindles, and their complement of 
looms. The yarns of the factory were all wove into fa- 
brics, with the exception of thread for sewing purposes. 
The conductors of the manufacturing department were all 
New Englanders. 

A young lady who had been engaged at that factory for 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 291 

the last six years was desirous of returning home, and re- 
quested that if I should again take Durango in my way to 
the United States, that I should be her protector ! My gal- 
lantry would not permit me to refuse, and I assured her that 
it would he a pleasure to me to play the part of knight-er- 
rant on her dangerous voyage home. 

The wife of the principal superintendent, a lady of much 
intelligence, seemed to be very desirous of visiting her na- 
tive country. She was a woman who had seen trouble, for 
she informed me that the only infant of her bosom, of two 
years of age, upon having departed this life, was refused 
the rites of burial, for the reason of its not having received 
Catholic baptism ; which fact I do not consider egregious', 
as the creeds of some of the Protestant denominations deny 
to children admittance into heaven under any circumstan- 
ces ; when Christ himself has said, " Suffer little children to 
come unto me, for of such is the kingdom of heaven." But 
I will not dispute with priests. I will rather take the word 
of God, for I believe in the doctrine, " Let every man be a 
liar, so God be true." 

The infant was preserved in a lead coffin, and deposited 
under her bed, until the period should arrive when she should 
lay it by the side of her kindred. 



202 TRAVBLS IN MEXICO 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Journey commenced. Camino Eeal. Cacario. Dining and sleeping. Separation from <he 
conductor. Splendid view of the -valley Giiateraepe. Animals feeding on the plain. 
Distance on the table-land deceiving. Despatched my guide to secure lodgings. Countess 
of Guatemepe. Her hospitality. Prayers and a dance. Departure for Chinacates. Indian 
news. Dissatisfaction with my interpreter. My guide's rebellion. Disagreeable journey. 
Arrival at Chinacates. Six-barrel pistols. Ridge of the mountain. Conversed with an 
Englishman. Mexican artizans. A New Englander. Disgraceful transaction. Santa 
Argo. Indians committing depredations. Reflections. Solicitude for my men. Conver- 
sation witli my interpreter. San Dilla. An old Mexican account of the Indians. Excite- 
raent in the village. My servant Marcelino. Advice of friends. My own deportment. 
Several small villages. Two mountains. Wantof men at Catarine. Indians who had killed 
many travellers. Six mules loaded with dead men. Boca the mouth. Notice not to pro- 
ceed farther. Some days delay at the Boca. Departure from the Boca. Madre Montes. 
Separation from company. Bivouac. Battle at night. March for Canales. Recovered 
from injuries. Battle in the day. Death of an Indian. Noneofmy men killed. Pursued 
my journey. Mountain scenery and travelling. Early history of the country. Frost. 
Reach Canales. Curiosities and freaks of nature. The Madre Montes. Despatched my 
guide to engage lodgings. Disappointment. Stake my tent. My intei'preter complains. 
His suspicions. Proposition to me. My refusal. Buckled oh my belt. Fell asleep. Mar- 
celino. The ascent of the next mountain. Dreadful suspicion of my interpreter. Stu- 
pendous scenes of nature. White bear. A mountain that overlooked the others. Like 
Balboa beheld the Pacific. Extensive subUmity. Distant view of Canales. Two little 
boys. Departed brother. 

My journey, or trouble, I would rather say, was com- 
menced on the 15th inst., by crossing first a low rocky 
mountain, and then another of no better travelling condi- 
tion, which consumed one half of the day. When we land- 
ed upon the plaii;i of Cacario, I found it to be so perfectly 
level, that the camino real, (the principal road,) was often, 
for a mile at a time, full of water ; while the land generally 
was boggy. At one o'clock, under a large cotton-wood 
tree, that stood in the midst of the plain, I stopped to 
" noon it." 

While partaking of some refreshments I despatched Mar- 
celino to a rancho close by for water, but on the way his 
animal was bogged, and it was with difficulty extricated. 
But what was of more serious distress to me was, that in 
the catastrophe my servant broke one of two bottles of 
brandy I had purchased at Durango, at the dear rate of two 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 293 

■t 

dollars each. The brandy I expected to have found a re- 
storative in my moments of excessive thirst and fatigue, as 
also a pleasant medicine in times of indisposition — but as 
the old adage has it — " there is rnany a slip between the 
cup and the lip." It was not until after sun-down that I ar- 
rived at the meson of the Hacienda campus Cacario. The 
conductor reached our quarters first, and upon my dismount- 
ing, I was glad to see that dinner was in preparation. Af- 
ter we had satisfied our hunger we commenced preparing 
for sleep. As there were no seats in our room, bags of 
money supplied their places, but my cartera being made up, 
I soon stretched myself upon it, whilst the old conductor 
extended himself across the only door in the room. 

The following morning we made an early start, and about 
mid- day, having arrived at a high rolUng country, the con- 
ductor and myself parted ; my having to take the right- 
hand, for Guatemepe, while he turned to the left. After 
travelling until about three o'clock, over a low mountainous 
region, we hove in view of a level country, which, for the 
extent of landscape, and lake-scenery, was as subhme in '•- 

appearance as the valley of Mexico. 

To our right, a lake for many miles skirted the mountain, 
having arms of water jutting from the main surface, Hke 
bays from a miniature sea ; while far in the plain, at some 
ten or twelve miles in distance, sat the casa grande, and the 
ranchos of the hacienda campus of Guatemepe. 

For a season I enjoyed the prospect of hundreds of ani- 
mals feeding upon the plain, and drinking the water of 
the lake : but the desire of resting from the toils of the day 
urged me forward to reach the great house, where I might 
indulge in sweet repose. And so anxious did I become, 
with my quarters in sight, that it did seem that the more I 
travelled the less I approached the object of my mark, 
as if deluded by enchantment. Distance, upon the table- 
lands of Mexico, is as deceiving, if not more so, as upon 
water. The highly rarified state of the atmosphere, in the 



294 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

elevated regions of country enables tlje beholder to see M^ith 
a distinctness objects that are far remote, in a manner uri- 
knov^n in the latitudes of the United States. Travellers, 
who are careful of their eyes, upDn the plains M^ear gog- 
gles, to prevent the continued strain of looking through the 
vast space, as well a^ to break the force of the periodical 
south-west winds, as also the rays and reflection of the sun. 

At a proper period, I despatched my guide to secure me 
lodgings, to the Conde of Guatemepe, for I had no idea of 
stopping at the ranchos if I could help myself to better ac- 
commodations. As I approached the house^ my servant 
returned and informed me that the countess had refused to 
receive me, owing to her lord being from home, and could 
not entertain company: however, in another moment, I re- 
ceived a messenger who said that his mistress had consent- 
ed, as an especial favour, that I should put up at her casa 
grande. I have before used the titles of nobility common 
in Mexico, and here I will remark, once for all, that they 
are now only applied as a courteous compliment, and not as 
W' a matter of right. 

Wealth, in Mexico, is sufficiently respectable and power- 
ful, without the dignity of names, bestowed on her former 
nobles. The countess was a lovely and hospitable woman, 
of between twenty and thirty years of age. She furnished 
me with a handsorne apartment, where I feasted upon the 
good things of my own store and her supplies. There was 
other company at the castle besides myself, and, at the toll- 
ing of the oration, by the bell of the church, which was a 
part of the same building, prayers were said, and then the 
guitar and a dance were introduced, which lasted until 
eleven o'clock, when all retired to rest. 

From Guatemepe I resumed my journey on the following 
morning for Chinacates, distant about forty miles. My di- 
rection, the most of the day, was over a continued range of 
low mountains, leaving the great and extensive valley of 
Guatemepe to the right. For several minor reasons, I had 



t 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 395 

from the time of my departure from Durango, become dis- 
satisfied with my interpreter : but I said nothing to him un- 
til I had some strong suspicions of the unfriendly intentions 
of the man. I had been informed that, at a distance of two 
or three days' ride from Guatemepe, a hard battle had been 
fought between a party of five hundred Camanche Indians 
and a thousand Mexicans, the latter being defeated. This 
intelligence, I was of the opinion, my interpreter was turn- 
ing to an account injurious to the advance of my journey ; 
for he had imparted it to my servants, and would himself, 
every cross we came to by the sides of the road, — which, 
the reader must recollect, were erected over murdered per- 
sons, — shont Siloud, Los Indios ! — (The Indians !) 

Discovering that his exclamations had an undesirable ef- 
feet upon my men, I remarked to him, that I was sensible 
that I was surrounded with danger, but if he persisted in 
alarming my servants, which might result in their desertion, 
he might return to Durango, or take any other direction he 
chose, for I believed his course of conduct to be prejudicial 
to me. He insisted that he was entirely innocent of an in- 
tention of harm, and implored that I would forgive the in- 
discretion, and think no more of it. He knew as well as I 
did that, if I discharged him, I could not employ another 
interpreter, for my last chance had escaped me, and that I 
must need one in future more than ever. I expressed my- 
self satisfied, but took care to watch and divine, if I could, 
his eveiy action. 

My guide became rebellious, and would stop and have 
long conversations with every one whom he met. This 
conduct I had been advised by all of my friends to prohibit, 
but so excited had the man's mind become, that it was im- 
possible to make him desist. 

Thus my disagreeable journey was continued the whole 
day, until my arrival at Chinacates, a rancho belonging to 
the estate of the Condc of Guatemepe. I dismounted at the 
house of the administrador before sunset. The governor 



296 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. ^ 

was from home, but his wife came to the door and invited 
me in, which I did, and, to my great astonishment, after I 
had become seated on the bench behind the long table, she 
took from a box a six-barreled pistol, the only one that I had 
seen in the country, besides my own, and walked across 
the floor. I drew from my belt my pair of similar wea- 
pons and laid them upon the table, so that she might behold 
also that I had twelve shots, which had a desirable eJOfect ; 
for she appeared no sooner to discover them than she laid 
aside her own. The woman, I knew, did not intend hosti- 
lity, but as that part of the country was very much infested 
with marauding land-pirates, she had ever been accustomed 
to be prepared to meet the worst. However, the husband 
soon arrived, and I fared well. 

My ride, the next day, was mostly upon a ridge of a 
mountain, which would, at times, bring me in view of the 
great valley of Guatemepe. No incident worthy of remark 
happened during the day, saving that, on one occasion, 1 
was interrogated, in my mother-tongue, if I was a foreign- 
er, and, upon replying in the affirmative, I had the pleasure 
of conversing with an Englishman. Having exchanged 
intelligence from the different points of our journey, we 
cordially took leave, as if each of us had been old acquaint- 
ances. It was Sunday, and, at the hour of four o'clock, 
P. M., I was safely lodged in the town of Santa Argo. 

Santa Argo has mines, and is situated upon what is called 
the Santa Argo river. The mines are not now worked, for 
the reason of the poverty of the ore. The attention of an 
enterprising Mexican company has, at that place, been di- 
rected to the manufacturing of cotton, and I was credibly 
informed by the superintendent of the factory, the company 
had borrowed their capital, and were enabled to make a 
handsome profit, paying thirty-seven and a half per cent, 
upon the loan. 

Thus it can easily be perceived, how dearly the Mexi- 
cans have to pay for cotton fabrics — so much for protection 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 1 297 

and home markets! The New Englander related to me 
what the swindler would call a smart, but to others a dis- 
graceful account of a Mexican gentleman of Saltila, who 
having determined to go into the cotton manufacturing busi- 
ness, visited the factories of the United States, for the purpose 
of securing perfect machinery. Upon his arrival he made, 
through a merchant, as his broker, a purchase of a cotton 
factory machine, at the cost of twenty thousand dollars, and 
had it shipped to his home. He also engaged an American 
artisan to go to Saltila, and put it together. But all having 
arrived, upon examination, it was discovered that no two 
wheels of the whole fabrication belonged to one another, 
being all mismatched, some too large and others too small, 
like the cannon balls that were too great for their guns, not 
a wheel could be turned, nor a shot fired. Thus, while the 
Mexican character falls short of correctness, it is neverthe- 
less taken advantage of sometimes. Still it is to be hoped 
that the twenty thousand has never done the swindler any 
good. 

The Mexicans are very ingenious and apt artisans, ac- 
quiring with much celerity the skill of any of the mechani- 
cal branches. They never serve the long apprenticeships, 
that are so common in the Union and in Europe ; but hav- 
ing worked at a trade some one or two years, they think 
themselves sufficiently proficient to carry it on ; and thus 
quit their tutor and set up for themselves. 

Indeed it is but seldom, generally in Mexico, the mecha- 
nic has ever received a day's instruction in his particular 
trade ; but of himself, dependant alone upon the force of his 
genius and invention, transacts his peculiar business to the 
satisfaction of his customers. 

Like the Chinese, the Mexicans have a good imitative ca- 
pacity, and make any thing by pattern very tolerably. It 
is a part of the accomplishments of a gentleman to know 
how to shoe a horse or mule; and all, when they travel, take 
with them an assortment of shoes and nails, so that if it 



298 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

should become necessary to shoe an animal, a shoe is se- 
lected and nailed on. The buttress is never used, for a 
horse is never shod until his feet become tender, or he has 
to travel in the rainy season. Hence it is that mechanics, 
who emigrate to Mexico, do not prosper well, excepting in 
sorne of the large cities, for the lazarones all profess to be 
good bricklayers, carpenters, tailors, saddlers, watchmakers 
and shoemakers ; while the blacksmith only finds his art pro- 
fitable to him in large factories. 

My journey on the next day was one of much vexation. 
My servants had learned at Santa Argo, that the Indians 
had, after the battle spoken of, scattered, and were com- 
mitting depredations in every direction. For the life of me 
I could hardly keep them together, for they would spur up 
to every individual they saw, to make inquiries of them res- 
pecting " los Indios." My interpreter, in the midst of my 
difficulties, utterly disgusted me by his apparent want of 
confidence. It is true, that to have been attacked by In- 
dians would have been an unpleasant reflection, yet it was 
no less so, that we were momentarily hazarding battle from 
Mexicans ; and I was persuaded, that if there was any cor- 
rectness in the Indian intelligence, my travelling was ren- 
dered the more safe, for the dreaded Indians would only 
drive home the ladrones, and my chances would be lessened 
for a rencounter, in having none but the Camanches for my 
enemies, and I looked upon them as the lesser evil of the 
two. 

, There were other reflections to prevent my retreat, for 
I considered that by it I would gain nothing but delay, with- 
out bettering my condition ; and at any future period my 
dangers would be no less, and, if battle from Indians or 
Mexicans was to overtake me, I felt determined to meet it, 
and abide the result, — for " I had set my life upon a cast, 
and would stand the hazard of the die." 

I felt much uneasiness on account of my men, for fear 
that their resolution might falter, and they positively refuse 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



299 



to proceed farther, or cause expensive delays, which latter 
I had every reason to believe, was the intention of my in- 
terpreter. At all hazards I was determined to travel to the 
Boca, two days' journey from San Argo, — for at that point, 
I was informed, travellers would rendezvous and depart 
thence in large parties. My interpreter declared that he 
would do more for me than for any other person alive, but 
he abhorred the idea of an Indian scalping-knife, — and that, 
as for himself, he would prefer a death-bed scene, to one on 
the mountains or the plains. ■ 

I did not believe that the man was a coward, but that he 
had other views in his silly conversation, and I felt perplexed 
with difficulties. My interpreter was a pecuhar man. He 
had a solemn and melancholy countenance. His often 
meditative dejection evidently showed that he had deep 
thoughts brooding in his breast, — whether they were those 
of sadness, or his expression of melancholy was caught from 
the people he resided so long amongst, or the unfriendly buf- 
fetings of the world, I could not divine — and I felt tempted 
to probe him. 

The more easily to effect my purpose, I inquired of him, 
if he desired to return with me to the United States ? His 
reply was, that he felt satisfied with Mexico, and might, 
perhaps, at some future period, visit the Union. I was not 
satisfied with this evasive answer, and commenced describ- 
ing the facilities of travelling, the improvements, the com- 
forts, wealth and prosperity in every part of the United 
vStates ; when he interrupted me by asking if I had seen 
the city of . I informed him that two years had hard- 
ly passed away since I had spent some months in the 
place named, and commenced describing it, — he wept. 
I explained to him the flourishing condition of religion 
in the Union. I told him that the numerous denomi- 
nations were, in one common unison, quietly enjoying the 
freedom of conscience and the worship of their God. He 
replied that he did not believe there was a God, and that, if 



2^QQ TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

he had had faith, he might not have been with me on' that 
day. He added, that, as a matter of course, he had joined 
the church of Mexico — but the clergy proving to be the 
most immoral people he had ever known, he felt confirmed 
in his original opinions. 

This conversation needs no comment, for it was evident 
that I had obtained the object of my investigation — -the man 
was a refugee from justice. 

At about one o'clock we arrived at a village called San 
Dilla. The doors of the houses were all closed, and I saw 
but one wretched old man sitting in the shade, who said 
that an Indian had, on that morning, been seen on the top 
of the mountain overlooking the town, and had fired a rifle, 
the bullet striking upon a house-top. This was the reason, 
he stated, for the houses being closed, the better to save the 
lives and property of the inhabitants. He remarked further, 
that for himself he had lived long enough, and had no pro- 
perty to lose. 

Enough had been told, and my men all dismounted, and 
I followed their example, with the hope, that by the follow- 
ing morning, their fears would be quieted. The noise of 
our arrival, and our knocking at a door for admittance, had 
the effect, it seemed, of waking the inhabitants from their 
slumbers. The news soon spread through the village, and 
I could hear from every quarter, " los Americanos." It 
was not long before a well dressed young man came and 
invited myself and my interpreter to partake of some re- 
freshments at his house. 

On the morning of the 2 1st inst., I gave directions for 
our departure from San Dilla, but my interpreter began 
making objections, which I silenced by positively command- 
ing them to be made. All appeared reluctantly to obey, and 
we commenced our march. My situation was one of the 
most unpleasant and delicate imaginable. I was shut out 
from conversation, which entirely placed me under the do- 
minion of my interpreter ; as so far from his attempting to 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3qj 

diminish the fears of my men, and stimulate them to action, 
it appeared that he only encouraged them in their evil fore- 
bodings. 

However, I was not without some comfort, for Provi- 
dence rarely deserts an individual entirely destitute of 
friends. My principal servant Marcelino seemed to pay 
me more marked attention, and appeared to be solicitous 
for my welfare. I noticed that he would often cast a 
watchful eye around to my interpreter and myself, taking 
occasion to pat his breast with his left hand, (which in 
Mexico signifies bravery,) to assure me of his firmness. I 
was satisfied that he was courageous, for his deportment 
had ever convinced me, that he was both honest in his in- 
tentions and firm at heart. 

Yet, to counterbalance these good impressions, my best 
friends in the country, who, while they unhesitatingly ex- 
pressed their doubts of the success of my journey, had par- 
ticularly advised me, that when servants became the most 
attentive, it was then that danger was to be apprehended; 
for a conspiracy was evidently formed against the master. 

The attentions of Marcelino were, nevertheless, grateful 
to me, and I could not but conclude that his motives, under 
all the circumstances, were pure ; and that he was the only 
friend and advocate I had in the number of all my men. 
My own deportment was difficult to maintain ; having to 
stimulate Marcelino by my confidence, while at the same 
time it was necessary in many ways to express my distrust 
of the others, including particularly my interpreter. I did 
not intend to quarrel with the latter right out ; for if things 
so far lost their balance, I would, if no other chance of safe- 
ty offered, be sure of obtaining the first shot. Besides I was 
desirous to make him useful to me in a trying moment, when 
any interpreter would be better than none. 

My journey on this day was immediately up the banks of 
the same stream, upon which the town of Santa Argo is 
situated. Its course was between two mountains, which 



302 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



appeared rapidly to converge as we advanced. We passed 
several villages all of which seemed to be in a state of ex- 
citement. 

At Santa Catarine I met with forty men, who were equip- 
ping themselves for an excursion in the rnountains, to hunt 
a small party of Indians, who had within the last few days 
killed many travellers ; and between that town and the Boca 
I met six mules, each loaded with the melancholy freight of 
a dead man. The bodies were those of a lawyer of Du- 
rango, who was on his way to Culiacan to be married ; two 
others were young doctors, who had accompanied him to 
wait upon him in his anticipated joyous occasion ; the other 
three were servants. They had come to their end mostly 
by Indian arrows, the body of the lawyer having six, stick- 
ing in it, besides having the flesh of his throat cut away. 

Late in the evening we arrived at the town of the Boca, 
situated immediately in the point where the eastern moun- 
tain joined the western one. Most appropriately had the 
village received its name, for in English it signified the 
mouth, and it was in fact the mouth of the great valley of 
Guatemepe. ' 

I felt rejoiced in overcoming the many difficulties on my 
way to this place ; for I had been advised by my country- 
man of Santa Argo, if Indians were talked of on the way, 
not to stop short of the Boca. The Alcalde gave me notice not 
to proceed farther without strengthening my party, or wait- 
ing for another company, and thus my progress was condi- 
tionally impeded. My journey to Canales would be one 
hundred and ninety miles, across the Madre Monte, the moth- 
er mountain ; so called by reason of the vast piles of moun- 
tains thrown together, which are not found in any other 
part of the country. The Mexicans say the Madre Monte 
is the parent of the Cordilleras and the Rocky Mountains. 

I was delayed some days at the Boca, to recruit the num- 
ber of my company, which was accomplished by the arri- 
val of some more travellers. On the 26th instant, I depart- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3Q3 

ed from the Boca, (one of my servants having deserted me,) 
with a party of twenty men and about one hundred ani- 
mals. As the way over the mountains was only a narrow 
path, winding along the sides of precipices and heights, just 
admitting the passage of one mule with his rider, or pack, 
at a time, we became scattered during the first and second 
day's toil, and our independent companies separated ; for the 
drivers could not attend to the general interest, the animals 
of their masters engrossing their attention severally. It 
was with great difficulty they could be managed ; conse- 
quently our whole strength did not encamp together. 

On the 28th instant, the parties both front and rear had 
not been seen by us for several hours, and Marcelino ex- 
pressed his apprehensions that we would neither find grass 
nor water for that night, the animals having to find their 
own livings, as provender cannot be packed for them. 

It was not long, however, before a place was found where 
all our wants could be abundantly supplied, and we did not 
hesitate to bivouac there. I had always been accustomed 
to read and hear of Indian fights, and no sooner were our 
mules turned loose, and our meal was over, than I directed 
the men all to select their places at a distance from the 
burning fires, where they should sleep, and examine well 
the ground, so that in case of an attack mistakes might not 
be made, of friends for enemies. 

My order having been obeyed, at the hour of dark each 
one reposed at his well-known chosen spot, while arms and 
ammunition were all put in readiness for battle at any mo- 
ment. It proved to be well that I had taken these precau- 
tions ; for, between the hours of two and three o'clock at 
night, we were attacked by a party of either Mexicans or 
Camanche Indians, or perhaps of both ; for they frequently 
unite for purposes of plunder. Judging from the reports of 
their guns, our enemies were about twelve in number, while 
my own men consisted of the interpreter and four servants. 

Upon the first alarm being given by the shrill whistles 



* 304 ' TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

and so:ul- shrinking yells of the savages^ my men all stood up 
to the tree, or rock, against which they had been laying, 
and returned the fire of the enemy like brave men. This 
random firing seemed to last for about one hour, when the 
Indians left us in possession of our camp. 

On the following morning no dead nor wounded sava- 
ges were to be found. Two of my men were wounded, 
and I sustained a further loss by one of my mules being 
missing ; and had they not all fortunately been hobbled, the 
action of the night would have produced a stampedo by 
which I would have been left destitute. No sooner had the 
sun dawned than we were all mounted, and with my three 
remaining pack-mules I commenced my line of march for 
Canales. There was no retreat, and my readers may de- 
pend upon it every one of us, as the saying is, " kept his eye 
skinned," looking every moment for Indians. About one 
o'clock, P. M., as we ascended a mountain height, where 
there was some level land, thickly wooded and very rocky, 
we were suddenly brought to a halt by a shower of arrows 
from Indian bows. We had nothing to do but fight, and 
my party scattered ; some dismounted and stood behind 
their animals, while others kept their seats on their saddles. 
As for myself, (unless I chose to follow the example of the 
man who was a little lame,) I determined to take my chance 
upon mule-back; for, added to my Zacatecas injuries, I had 
not yet recovered from a stage upset, upon Mount Airy, 
Va., about twelve months previous. 

My men commenced a brisk fire from their several posi- 
tions. I could occasionally discover the huge body of an 
Indian, who was not prudent enough to conceal himself, and 
took two deliberate shots at him, which seemed to have no 
other effect than to knock fragments from around him, with 
my double-barreled gun. I then resolved to try what effect 
a bullet from my long rifle-barreled pistol would have upon 
his head. Having, with deliberate aim, pulled the trigger, 
the long barrel told well the tale. By this time my favour- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3O5 

ite servant, who had never left my side, seeing the big In- 
dian fall, became furious for battle ; and my eyes catching 
a glimpse of his long sword, I immediately gave the order, 
" Charge ! Charge !" My interpreter, true to his duty, reiter- 
ated, " Carga ! Carga /" which was no sooner heard than 
every soul was seated in his horned saddle, and with one 
accord the huge Spanish spurs were driven into the side of 
our animals. 

With all the enthusiasm of Indian fighting, we in our turn 
raised the shout and the war-cry, and by an energetic move- 
ment drove the enemy before us. It being impossible to 
chase far an Indian foe, over rocks and mountain cliffs, I 
considered present safety better than complete victory, and 
accordingly called off my men. 

Upon examining the big Indian, I found that he wore a 
wooden mask, having a long red tongue hanging from its 
mouth, besides many serpents and horns nodding and dodg- 
ing from the top of his head and round his shoulders. His 
leather clothing was stuffed with moss, such as is used in 
the United States for filling the cushions of sofas and mat- 
tresses. None of my men were injured. I had an arrow 
to pass through my hat, and two through my Mexican blan- 
ket, at the horn of my saddle. These Indians had notched 
two arrows at a time, and are generally reputed to be very 
certain of their aim. A battle with arrows is of course noise- 
less. 

Mounted on my little mule I continued to pursue my jour- 
ney. It is not considered safe to travel on any other ani- 
mal over these mountains, as the mules are very sure-footed 
and sagacious ; often having to make a delicate step, or 
jump, on a craggy steep ; in which case he will, with great 
sagacity, pausd and balance himself, apparently to feel if his 
rider is firmly seated ; and then, as quick as thought, he 
makes the bound which lands his feet on the opposite rock; 
a slip from which would inevitably have precipitated both 
man and beast down a deep and craggy vortex. 
20 



306 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

To give some idea of the height of the Madre Monte, I 
will remark that the traveller is often obliged to consume 
the whole day in ascending a mountain ; which when over- 
come, to his astonishment he beholds that upon the supre- 
macy of heights, as he had imagined the one he has just as- 
cended, he has but to commence another arduous and giddy 
task of reaching an eminence, perhaps greater than the 
other. And what overpowered my philosophy was, that 
the tops and the glens of these mountains, many thousand 
feet above the level of the plains, abounded in water, and I 
have been informed that some of these heights are covered 
with bog, while a well cannot be sunk deep enough in the 
plains to obtain water. 

The abundance of water is the only difficulty to be con- 
tended with in mining upon the mountains, while at the 
same time there is nothing so needed on the plains below as 
the liquid element. From such experience in Mexico I am 
forced to look upon that country as a natural paradox. It 
is — and it is not — a contradiction in humanity, religion and 
nature. When the mind of the traveller resorts to the early 
history of the country, and beholds the formidable natural 
barriers whieh the Spaniards had to overcome, he is aston- 
ished at the remarkable rapidity with which the aborigines 
were subdued. The spirit of discovery and of conquest 
once kindled, the romantic excitement it produced was over- 
powering, and with an enthusiasm which nothing but a like 
cause could engender, and an avarice never to be satiated — 
the Spaniards swept over plain and mountain with an irre- 
sistible power, and subdued a continent, the dominion of 
which extended to the limits of Cancer on the north, and 
Capricorn on the south. 

On this night I bivouaced on a greater elevation than I 
had before done, and on the next morning I had the plea- 
sure to behold a fine frost, with which my blankets were 
covered. It was the only one I had seen in the country, 
and I could not withhold the temptation of touching it with 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



307 



my fingers, and cooling nay hands with the white dew of 
heaven. It was, however, short lived, but as long as it 
lasted I could not take my eyes from the pure sight, or sup- 
press the thoughts of my own native hills of Virginia. 

My guide informed me that I could, on that day, reach 
Caneles, and the cheering news seemed to animate my 
whole party with the thoughts, that one more ride would 
put us beyond the danger of Indians, and into an inhabited 
country. Shortly after we set out, we had to ascend a 
mountain, which brought us in view of a snow-capped peak 
which reached far above any other point. Having de- 
scended the opposite side, we travelled along the bed of a 
river for some four or five miles. The stream was shut 
up between two mountains, whose rocky and precipitous 
heights prohibited a pathway along its sides. Many were 
the curiosities, and the freaks of nature that I beheld in the 
singular formations of the rocks. On the top of a high point 
on one of these mountains was a flat rock, just the shape of 
a man's hand, which sat upright on a wrist. The mammoth 
hand could not have been less than one hundred feet in 
height. It appeared to point due north and south, as if to 
prevent the traveller, who was confined between these wild 
and rugged barriers, from becoming bewildered, and thus 
lose his proper direction. All the rock of the mountains 
seemed to be of a rotten lime and sandstone order. 

The Madre Monte is a vast mountain, having hundreds 
of smaller ones piled upon her broad bosom. By a percep- 
tion of the imagination she seems in sportive magnificence 
to fondle and cherish her nestlings at the bleached and pure 
white nipple of her breast. 

We travelled on that day over a continuous range of 
mountains. The day was drawing to a close, and yet 
Caneles did not appear. My men were all gay — now sing- 
ing merrily and then vauntingly yelling the Indian war- 
whoop. In the evening I despatched my guide forward to 
engage me rooms at a meson in town. He had been absent 



308 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



about two hours, when at sunset we overtook him on the 
top of a mountain. ' His countenance seemed so dejected 
that I began to apprehend some calamity. However, I was 
soon undeceived by his informing me that he had been mis- 
taken in his calculation, and that it would not be until the 
following day that we could reach Caneles. 

On receiving this unwelcome intelligence, we hastened 
down the mountain, by which time darkness overtook us. 
We dismounted and kindled our fire, and unpacked the ani- 
mals. I caused lights to be set around the ground in differ- 
ent directions, so that I was enabled to review all immedi- 
ately about us. We were on a wet place with a soft soil. 
There was just level space enough to stake my tent, for the 
first time since it had been in my possession. My cartera 
also I had determined to sleep on that night, for the only 
time since I had been in the mountains, as a prudential step 
for the preservation of my health ; and accordingly gave 
directions for the work to be done. 

My interpreter complained much of my guide, expressing 
his want of confidence in him, saying, that he should not be 
surprised if he was in league with a marauding party for 
our destruction, by his deceiving us on that day. I endea- 
voured to quiet the man's fears, by saying that I believed 
him innocent of any bad intentions, and told him that mis- 
takes were common to every person, and that it was evi- 
dently as much his interest to take us to Caneles, as it was 
our own to get there. 

My tent pitched, and my cartera erected, I, for the first 
time in four days and nights, took off my belt of arms, and 
laid it on the common pile of weapons at the mouth of the 
marquee. My servants busily engaged themselves in pre- 
paring dinner. While they were thus employed at the fire, 
a little distance from the tent, my interpreter gravely ap- 
proached me, and said that he confidently believed we 
would be attacked that night, and he felt desirous to make 
a proposition to me, which was, that he and I should leave 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3Q9 

the camp and lay upon the way side, to attack the Indians 
when they would be stealing upon us. I replied that I 
should rest myself that night, though the mountains should 
be covered with howling devils, threatening to devour me 
alive. 

He was meditative a short time, and again remarked, 
that as I was unwilling to accompany him, and he did not 
want to see me taken by surprise, as I had been on the night 
previous, he wished permission to adventure alone, that he 
might give the alarm before the enemy could storm my 
camp. A thought at the moment gleamed through my mind, 
and I resolutely informed him, that he might leave as soon 
'as he liked, but that all the arms in the camp belonged to 
me, and that he should carry none of them with him. Suit- 
ing the action to the word, I stepped between him and the 
weapons. The interpreter instantly sank to the earth, as if 
death had overtaken him. 

I raised my belt and buckled it round my person, then 
put my gun and holster-pistols in my cartera, and motioned 
to my servants to put on their arms. I noticed that the 
conversation and actions of the interpreter had attracted 
their attention, and they all obeyed me. Marcelino drew 
his knife, and seated himself behind the suspected man, and 
signified by a motion of his hand, that if he moved he would 
let him have it — to which I nodded assent. 

With a heart and head that ached, I could eat but little. 
My good servant seeming to insist so much, by his signs, 
that I should lie down, I concluded to do so, but not to 
sleep. ExTiausted nature, however, was supreme to my 
will, and I no sooner extended myself, than the world was 
lost to me. Marcelino awoke me in the morning before my 
interpreter had arisen. I had him aroused, and when cho- 
colate was over, for fear of an attack, and thinking that, 
perhaps, I had judged him too harshly, I handed him back 
his weapons. 

We commenced our day's journey by ascending the next 



gj^Q TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

mountain. Having travelled some distance upon its ridge, 
my interpreter dropped his hat, and dismounted to pick it 
up. I had passed him but a short distance, vt'hen I con- 
cluded to look around. Not hearing the tread of his ani- 
mal, I suddenly turned my head and discovered the man in 
the act of pointing his gun at me, over his saddle. I wheeled 
instantly, and drawing my rifle pistol, made towards him. 
He said that he had a second time dropped his hat, and was 
only in the act of mounting his horse when I saw him. I 
commanded him to mount, telling him, that if he dared again 
to get behind me, under any circumstances, it must prove 
fatal to one of us, and we continued our travel. 

The scenes of nature through which we passed were of 
the most stupendous kind, — consisting of mountains, rocks, 
cataracts, and deep glens. The deer, the wolf, and the wild 
turkey inhabited the dense forests — nor was there any habi- 
tation between the Boca and where we then were. I hearti- 
ly desired to see Caneles. 

I was informed that there is a species of grizzly bear that 
lives in the clefts of these mountains. They are said to be 
as white, and in fact the same animal, as those found in the 
ice regions of the north. They are supposed to have made 
their way from the regions of the north, their native clime, 
upon the long range of the Rocky mountains. I had to ad- 
mire the abundance and beauty of the game I witnessed. 
But my guns had not been loaded to harm them. I had no 
shots but for defence. 

By the middle of the day we had ascended a mountain 
that overlooked all others in the vicinity. The air was 
cold, and we all drew on our serapis. My guide seemed 
desirous to show me some object. I inquired of my inter- 
preter what it was. He informed me that it was the Pacific 
ocean. 

From the position I occupied, like Nunez de Bilboa, on 
the heights of the isthmus of Darien, I looked over land until 
it was lost in the vast immensity of misty space — the vapours 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3jj 

of the waters of the ocean exhibiting a marked contrast to 
the dry and clear atmosphere of the parched land. The 
sight was sublimely extensive, yet I did not enjoy the view 
as much as if I had been more happily conditioned. 

We descended a high mountain, and my guide gave the 
joyful intelligence that Caneles was in sight, and pointed out 
the opposite height that also overlooked the town. At length 
we came to the brink of the mountain, v/hich commanded 
the view of a vast ravine, in the bottom of which, situated 
upon a bold and rapid stream, is the town of Caneles. 

The mountain was precipitous. We made a slow zig-zag 
progress, making an angle at almost every ten or twenty 
paces. My journey down the height, with Caneles con- 
stantly in sight, was three hours at least. And thus, upon 
the evening of the 28th instant, I dismounted at the house 
rented for me by my guide. While the sceptre of thought 
shall hold dominion over my mind, and when all other im- 
pressions are blotted out of my memory, I shall never for- 
get the two little boys who came running, with tears 
streaming from their eyes, and exclaimed, " ./^^zos TeoV 
" How do you do, uncle V I clasped them to my bosom, 
and wept for an only and a departed brother 



312 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER XViri. 

My first object. An American living at Caneles. Interested with my voice. Develop- 
ment made by Marcelino. Mineral of Caneles. Sublime view of the scenery of Cane- 
les. The climate of Caneles. Mountains abound with silver. Quicksilver of Caneles. 
Mr. John Buchan, governor of an English company. Disease of goitre. Doctor Eberle. 
Feelings of myself. Did not repose at Caneles. Journey down the Caneles river. Viewr 
of mountain scenery. All nature in Mexico at war. Mule more sapient than a horse. 
The town of Topie. Planting corn Emerge from between two Cerroes. View of open 
space beautiful. Species of birds. Remarkable account of the love of an Indian woman. 
Arrived at Tamazula. President Victoria. Hospitality of the Prefect and Curate. Chil- 
dren of priests. Tamazula river. Uniaya river. Culiacan river. Town of Cosala, 
Ma/.atalan. A voyage from China. Fish and oysters. Guadaloui)e de Calvo. English 
silver mines. Mountains abound in silver. Mineral of Refagio. Return to the mineral 
of Caneles. Inhabitants of the hot and cold regions. Difference of temperature of the 
Pacific and Atlantic coasts. Departed from Caneles for Guanosebi. UnintelHgible con- 
versation. Met with Mr. Buchan at Guanosebi. Moon-shine in Mexico. A general, a 
priest, and a lawyer. Santa Anna's hacienda campus. Mexican attachment. 

My first object, after my arrival at Caneles, was to re- 
fresh myself from the fatigues of travel ; and accordingly, 
having partaken of a good dinner, I retired to my cartera, 
where, until the next morning, I indulged in delightful slum- 
ber, and many dreams — which was but living over again my 
hopes, my hazards, and my sufferings. 

The 1st of March found me on my feet long before the 
sun had gilded the cloud-capped heights that overlooked the 
town. I had understood that an American lived in Caneles, 
and my solicitude was to see him, before my necessities 
would require me to transact further business through the in- 
terpreter whom I had in my employment, and whom I in- 
tended that day to discharge, regardless of all considera- 
tions. 

A change of my condition was obligatory, and if I should 
not be bettered, my situation could be no worse, and 
I said to my little nephews, " traygame los Americanos." 
They had arisen early to present me with some flowers ; 
they took me by the hand and conducted me to the house 
of my fellow countryman, just in the same manner as a 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



313 



blind man would have been led the v^^ay. I felt much in- 
terest in the sympathy of my boys ; for they seemed to 
think that, as I could not converse with them in Spanish, I 
might also be deficient in eye-sight, and with the greatest 
care did they lead me along, pointing out every article and 
turn that we came to. 

The imagination of my nephews that I was deficient in 
sight, was not more strange than the impression that the 
Mexicans often have, of those who do not speak their lan- 
guage ; for they will talk in a loud voice to a foreigner as 
if he was deaf, and the oftener they receive the reply " no 
intended'' the louder will they vociferate. 

I explained to the American my misgivings, and the sus- 
picions I had of my interpreter, and requested him to con- 
verse with my servants, and if possible to ascertain how far 
my conjectures were correct. 

My friend was but a short time absent, when he returned 
bringing \yith him Marcelino, who related that my inter- 
preter had informed my men that there was gold in my 
trunk, and had made them the proposition that I should be 
murdered, and they, with the spoil, make their safe retreat 
to the Pacific coast. 

As for myself, I felt convinced of the truth of his state- 
ment, and could then well discern why the interpreter had 
expressed so many fears of my guide, which was done to 
prevent any suspicions of himself being otherwise than 
interested for my safety. Indeed, so strong were my sus- 
picions of him on the day previous, that I should certainly 
have come to deadly conflict with him, had I not wished to 
reach Caneles on the same evening, as I was unwilling to 
camp another night with so dangerous a man. I therefore 
did not wish, if it could be avoided, to take his life, or run 
the risk of losing my own, knowing that, when at Caneles, 
I could easily relieve myself. 

I had my interpreter and all of my servants summoned 
before the Alcalde, and in his presence settled with each. 



314 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

In discharging them from my service I commanded that 
they should depart from the town immediately, or else suf- 
fer the consequences of the law. Marcelino I would gladly 
have reserved, but he was obliged to return to Zacatecas to 
dehver the animals I had hired of his master. 

The mineral of Caneles is situated in a deep and narrow 
ravine, having the mountains on the east and west, rising 
immediately to a general elevation of from two to three 
thousand feet above the town. I could find no one who 
could give me the height of any of the northern mountains 
above the sea, or their latitude and longitude. For the want 
of instruments I was unable to ascertain those important 
scientific observations. The mountain to the east forms an 
extensive curve, and for many hundred feet appears to have 
no declivity, but is of an abrupt perpendicular steep; while 
in some parts of it the rocks protrude in vast dimensions 
over the deep gulf beneath. 

High towards heaven, yet not to the height of .the moun- 
tain, the beholder cannot cast his eyes without viewing the 
deep azure blue mist hovering over the scene. This mist 
arises from the foaming tide of the Caneles river, as it 
bounds and surges over the rocks, down its headlong course 
due north. The mountain to the west is an immense rock, 
only accessible to the slow and circuitous footsteps of hu- 
man beings, and the flight of birds. Its uneven side has a 
dark and brownish aspect. Its extended top is crowned 
with two peaks, or nipples, which circumstance has caused 
it to be named the Silla Cerro, the saddle mountain. The 
whole scene is completed by an extensive view between the 
two cerros to the north; while to the south, the towering 
points of the Madre Monte are visible. 

The climate of Caneles is spring and summer. Vegeta- 
bles and fruits which abound in any other latitudes, are plen- 
tifully cultivated there. The trees are perpetually green ; 
for as fast as the leaves fade and fall, others are fresh ex- 
panding; added to which the golden harvests of the orange 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3I5 

tree are ever beautiful to the eye and tempting to the taste. 
The name Caneles means cinnamon. Whether this plant 
was ever cultivated there I could not ascertain, and was 
therefore at a loss to know how the place acquired its name, 
unless it was by a freak of fancy. The streets are necessa- 
rily narrow. To the inhabitants this is no inconvenience, 
for a wheeled vehicle of any kind has never been seen in 
the town ; indeed it would be impossible for one to ascend 
the mountain at any point. 

The mountains of Caneles have ever been celebrated, 
from the early discovery of the country, for abounding in 
silver, but from the poverty of the ore, the mines have never 
been extensively worked. But what has rendered the place 
famous as a mineral locality is, that veins of quicksilver have 
been found there. These have never been worked success- 
fully. I learned that the people were much flattered with 
hopes, from the fact that an English company had but re- 
cently commenced opening a mercury mine, under the ex- 
perienced management of Mr. John Buchan, an enterpri- 
sing Englishman. Mr. B. is a son of the celebrated Capt. 
Buchan, who was lost in a British exploring expedition to 
the North Pole. 

I was shown some specimens of quicksilver ore, of which 
there were two kinds. The liquid metal was contained in 
a soft red stone. In the first kind the mineral was not per- 
ceptible in the rock, which was only ascertained to be pos- 
sessed of a foreign substance by its weight. The second 
and last degree of specimens differed from the first only by 
the mineral protruding out of the stone in small detached 
particles, the only contrast being, that the one was richer 
in mercury than the other. 

Quicksilver is never found but in secondary formations. 
The ore is pulverised into an impalpable powder, and the 
mineral is obtained by washing the ofl^al from the silver. 
The inhabitants of the mines of Caneles are most grievously 
affected with the loathsome disease bronchocelc, or goitre, 



3X6 TR AVELS IN MEXICO. 

called by them buche. This distressing complaint is a chro- 
nic enlargement of the thyroid gland. The goitre tumour 
exists sometimes on both, but most generally at Caneles, on 
one side of the larynx and trachea. As the tumour enlarges 
it becomes more inconvenient, and distresses the respira- 
tion and the voice, in proportion to its inward tendency. 

At Caneles, where one-half of the population was dis- 
eased, I saw some of these tumours of great size, having 
to be suspended in a handkerchief or bandage from the 
neck. I did not witness any so large as those described by 
Dr. Mott in his travels in Switzerland; for he says, that at 
Martigny he saw one, — " the size of the tumour was of such 
colossal dimensions, that the poor woman was obliged to 
crawl along the floor upon her hands and feet, dragging the 
gigantic dewlap and pendulous mass after her." 

At Caneles, children, born of goitred parents, are certain 
to be idiots, or deaf and dumb ; in some instances the limbs 
are feeble and ricketty. The disease is hereditary. From 
all the information I could obtain of the disease at Caneles, 
it must have had its origin from the atmosphere, and not 
from the water. The most effectual remedy there used 
was half a drachm of hydrate of potash, mixed in one 
ounce of lard, and nightly rubbed on in small quantities. 

Dr. Eberle, in his treatise on goitre remarks — " In many 
localities, where bronchocele prevails endemically, particu- 
larly in the deep valleys of the Alps, the disease is very 
frequently attended with stunted and deformed develope- 
ment of the body, and a corresponding deterioration of the 
intellectual faculties. It is thus that, amidst the magnificent 
and beautiful scenes of nature, man alone is doomed to 
dwindle — to sink under the inevitable influences that sur- 
round him, from his noblest prerogatives to the lowest state 
of corporeal and intellectual deterioration. The unfortu- 
nate beings who are afflicted in this manner, and, in some 
situations, the majority of the native inhabitants are more 
or less affected, and stunted in growth, with enormous 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. ^17 

heads, tumid necks, and manifest a degree of mental habi- 
tude, which in aggravated instances amounts to absolute 
idiotism. The combinations of affections is called., creti- 
nism, and the unfortunate themselves cretines. In no part 
of the world is the disease so prevalent, and so distressing 
in its character, as in some of the valleys of the Alps and 
Appenines. In certain districts of Switzerland and Savoy, 
about the whole of the indigenous population are more or 
less affected with goitrous enlargements. In the valley of 
the Rhone, at Martigny, St. Maurice, Agile, Villeneuve, 
Bourg, Lucerne, and at Dresden, and in the valleys of Pied- 
mont, this disease is extremely common, Goitre occurs 
also in various parts of Asia, particularly in Chinese Tar- 
tary, and in Hindostan ; and in certain districts in Africa 
it is said to be very common. In England, the disease oc- 
curs very frequently in certain mountainous districts of the 
counties of Derbyshire, Buckinghamshire, Surrey, and 
Norfolk. In our own country also there are localities in 
which goitre is of frequent occurrence. At Bennington, 
Camden, Sandgate, Windsor and Chester, in Vermont, bron- 
chocele is very common. In the state of New York it is 
frequently met with at Oneida, the German falls, in the 
Onondaga valley, in the township of Manlius, at Brother- 
town, in the neighbourhood of Angelica in Alleghany coun- 
ty, and in various other localities in the north-western 
districts of the state. In Pennsylvania, it occurs, not un- 
frequently, at Pittsburg, at Cannonsborough, Brownsville, 
and along the Alleghany, Sandusky and Monongahela 
rivers. It is met with in Virginia at Morgan town and on 
the banks of the Cheat river." 

None but him who has been similarly conditioned can 
imagine the feelings of myself, when standing by the tomb 
of a relative, in a distant and foreign country. The health 
of my brother, J. P. Gilliam, M. D., U. S. Consul at Mont- 
erey, on the Pacific, having become delicate, he retired to 
the mountains of Caneles, for the benefits that miirht accrue 



32g TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

but, at that retired and isolated place it pleased the divine 
will that he should depart from this to a better state of ex- 
istence. Having taken into my charge his two sons, it be- 
came necessary that I should visit some of the tov^^ns in the 
surrounding country, which, perhaps, would cause me to 
travel to Maztelan. 

That I might finish my business without the loss of time, 
I did not tarry at Caneles longer than till the 4th inst , on 
which day I found myself again in a saddle, and accompa- 
nied by four others ; an American, of Caneles, going as my 
interpreter. Strange as it may appear, as at the time it did 
so to me, my road, for ninety miles, was to be down the bed 
of the Caneles river, confined as it is, for that distance, be- 
tween two cerros, upon the right hand and on th-e left. I do 
not believe that I shall hazard a contradiction of opinion 
when I express my belief that, perhaps, for the same num- 
ber of miles, another like journey is not made on the face 
of the earth. The river averages from fifteen to twenty 
yards in width, at first, but, at the latter half of the distance, 
it is increased by the junction of another stream, bedded 
immediately between mountains, abruptly rising to an im- 
mense height. 

These mountains are only accessible to the flight of birds. 
The fall of water is rapid, and must be from two to three 
hundred feet in the mile. The bed of the river is rocky, and, 
in some pjaces, of such extent as to almost choke up the 
way from the passage of travellers. A journey on that 
stream is always perilous ; for often, while an animal would 
be in the water up to the feet of its rider, many short an- 
gles have to be made to pass around the large smooth rocks, 
too high to be surmounted, while the sure-footed beast would 
have to bound over others, plunging into the water on the 
opposite side. A mishap would, in many instances, over- 
throw both rider and mule into deep sucks, flooding round 
rocks, which would inevitably destroy them. 

There were, nevertheless, times when short points of 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



319 



rocks or earth, sometimes steep, and at others low, had to 
be passed. Then the traveller would have to encounter the 
cat's-paw, or some other briery growth, which would tear 
his clothes and flesh ; for all the vegetable kingdom in Mex- 
ico is thorny. Indeed the idea often strikes one, that all 
nature there is at war — the birds, the beasts, the creeping 
insects and reptiles, as well as the vegetation, are all armed 
for formidable aggression and defence; and yet, above 
every other consideration, man, who should be lord and 
subduer of uncultivated nature, is the bane over all, for he 
excels in his unkind and hostile deeds. The traveller has 
to spend the night at some narrow nook that may promise 
scanty picking for his animals, and safety for himself. He 
does not proceed more than half a day down the river be- 
fore he perceives that the mountain-sides, which will admit 
of growth, are covered with forests of log-wood. 

I was of the opinion that the mule was the most stupid, 
as well as the most stubborn of animals : but, on my first 
acquaintance with him, T was agreeably disappointed. To 
do him justice, I now express myself, that I believe him to 
be more useful and more sapient than the horse. He is 
more docile — coming and going to his work with unsubdued 
fortitude and unchangeable habits — and, if obstinate, never 
so without the shadow of a just cause. He has a distinc- 
tive knowledge of his master, and all his other animals ; 
and, undriven, will select his own apporao, (pack-saddle,) 
out of an hundred ; which, when packed, he will take the 
most particular care of; that his cargo will not come in 
contact with another. If he has to pass under a limb, he 
will just stoop enough to let his load pass the obstacle un- 
touched. If a rock projects from the side of a mountain, 
his instinct instructs him to lean to one side, so that a box 
of goods will be unharmed. 

I have had my riding-mule to stoop and lean, so that my 
body would have IVcc passage under suspended difficulties 
or through narrow defiles. He will punctually follow the 



32Q TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

whistle, or the tinkling of a small bell, when his path-way 
is too narrow, bushy and crooked for him to see his leader; 
and at night, when he is turned loose to graze, the mule will 
not suffer the animals of another ariero to associate and 
mix with his own company, but will drive them off at the 
cost of life. 

He never, in the darkest night, loses sight of his leader, 
which is always a white horse, or mule, and in the morning, 
when each ariero goes in search of his animals, each will 
find his own clustered around, or in sight of, their particu- 
lar leader. The mule, however, is a despiser of his own 
species, and in his love for the horse will, day and night, 
fight for the nearest sociable position with him. But, per- 
haps, the reader may think I am jesting ; yet, if he will take 
a trip to Mexico, he will find that I have not told all for 
fear of incredulity. 

The town of Topie is a rich mineral, situated upon a high 
mountain, fifteen miles north of Caneles. It is a place of 
great antiquity, and has three times been destroyed by the 
Indians ; to this day, bars of silver, that were buried under 
its ruins, are found ; while silver bullets are ploughed up in 
the fields. Since I have mentioned the subject of plough- 
ing, I will remark, that I made inquiries as to the mode of 
cultivating the land in the cold regions of Madre Monte, 
and was informed, that there lived in those mountains some 
Indians who have not been civilized, who are in the habit 
of planting their corn to a depth beyond the influence of the 
cold. Sometimes, I was told, they were known to have 
planted the grain as low as two feet under the earth, and if 
it should germinate and sprout to the surface, before the 
seasons of frost has passed, and be nipped down, the warm 
earth beneath would nourish the roots, and cause them to 
again grow up to perfection. Thus while the roots of corn 
are in a warm region, the stalk and fruit are nourished in 
a colder clime. 

The Indians were the first cultivators of corn, and well 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



321 

understood its nature ; and I was struck with the probable 
correctness of the philosophical reasoning of the aborigines. 
I remembered well the time of having read in agricultural 
works; that roots of corn would penetrate to unknown 
depths, and the ostensible reason of the phenomenon at once 
appeared to me. The root was seeking a warmer element 
downwards, so as the more effectually to cast upwards its 
genial nourishment to the stalk. 

My journey down the river was three days in continu- 
ance, and when I emerged from between the two cerroes, it 
was a source of much rejoicing to me ; for it would be dif- 
ficult for any one to imagine its disagreeableness, who never 
has had the misfortune to traA^el through water and over 
rocks, for that length of time. If their animals are not shod, 
their feet soon become tender, and the fatigued traveller 
finds that, besides being reduced to the necessity of pro- 
gressing slowly, he cannot help sympathising with his dis- 
tressed beast ; while, at the same time, he is obliged to drive 
the barbarous Spanish spur into his sides. 

The view of open space was never more beautiful or 
welcome to my sight. The forests a perfect medley in 
every direction, by their growth being so indiscriminately 
mixed, that the whole woods were thickly matted, and 
almost impenetrable, save by the paths of ancient usage. 
The birds, too, of many descriptions, strange to me, were 
merrily singing — the flocks of paroquets of many species, 
drowning, by their wild and frantic screams, the melodies 
of the other portion of the feathered tribe. There were 
some birds that particularly attracted my attention — the 
Chechalaca, or pheasant; to me it resembled more the 
guinea fowl than any other bird I was acquainted with, be- 
ing symmetrically and beautifully proportioned — its plumage 
was dark with slight variations of shade, and although wild 
in its native state, no fowl is more capable of being render- 
ed domestic. 

The Gonaco attracted my attention from its peculiar 
21 



322 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



habits. It seemed to indulge in hallooing a sound that re- 
sembled its name, and was seldom observed to feed; it is 
said of these birds that they build their nests of a poisonous 
root, only to be found in these habitations; and it is un- 
known whether it originates from the bird itself, or else it 
alone possesses the secret of the locality of the plant. This 
root is said to be a specific remedy for the sting of the 
alicran. 

My interpreter had seen much of New Mexico, and from 
his acquaintance with the trappers of thc: north, was pos- 
sessed of a fund of anecdote very interesting to me, during 
my journey — one of which he related to me, which deeply 
engaged my attention and feelings, as a remarkable tale of 
love. A trapper had taken to himself a wife, with whom 
he lived for several years in the utmost confidence and af- 
fection. The woman not only loved her lord, but adored 
him, as being vastly her superior. Her only care was to 
cultivate maize— to dry his meats — stretch his skins — and 
to neatly keep their little wigwam, to please her beloved 
white man. But the faithless husband, discontented with 
the pearl of great price, was tempted by other beauties, and 
took to his lodge another, whose loveliness seemed to please 
him better. The old incumbent, without expressing her 
sorrow, at once departed; but after the lapse of several 
months returned. She suddenly appeared under the roof 
where alone she had enjoyed happiness. The trapper and 
his bride were taken by surprise : he at once beheld the al- 
tered features, the hollow cheek, the sunken and fixed eye, 
and the heart of the man relented. He kindly spoke to her; 
but her grief and her purposes were too deeply settled, to be 
then cajoled in her wrongs. With an eye riveted upon 
him, and a voice that faltered from the pangs of a broken 
heart, she said, " George, I am going to die," and before the 
guilty hunter could arrest the fatal knife, she had driven it 
to the hilt in her bosom, and expired at his feet. 

On the 8th inst. I arrived ai the town of Tamazula. 



TRAVELSINMEXICO. 323 

This town is also in addition called the Fortunate, a name 
bestowed upon it by Victoria, when President of Mexico, 
in consequence of its having been his birthplace ; however, 
agreeable to the adage, that a prophet has no honour in 
his own land, the memory of the illustrious chieftain and 
president, was not cherished by his former fellow-citizens, 
in a manner that reflected glory on the departed. They did 
not hesitate to affirm that his successful career commenced 
by his having been a high-way robber. The town contain- 
ed about one thousand inhabitants, and exhibited symptoms 
of a rapid decline, by the appearance of the houses in every 
part of the city, which seemed to be in a falling condition. 

I was particularly pleased with the hospitality of the citi- 
zens of Tamazula. Sr. Don Morillo, the Prefect, would 
not consent that I should board at any other than his own 
house; while the Curate gave a brilliant ball, to which I was 
invited. Although the Curate seemed to be a man of about 
sixty years of age, his person was singularly well propor- 
tioned and handsome. His elegance of manners and splen- 
did waltzing, appeared to me, notwithstanding he was a 
curate,to be more becoming in him, than any other individual 
T ever beheld. Two of his daughters, as also one of the 
priests of the town, were at the entertainment. The young 
ladies were as modest, beautiful and accomplished as any 
others I saw ; insomuch that they far eclipsed all others in 
the room, on that truly joyous occasion. 

It may appear remarkable to the Christians of the United 
States that the clergy of Mexico should have children, but 
I can assure them, that they may have no doubt on that 
score ; for no truth is of more acknowledged publicity, and 
nothing is more common than for the favourite unmarried 
wives to live with the holy fathers — at the same time their 
families are better educated and provided for, as a commu- 
nity, than any others in all Mexico- 

I was informed by Mr. John Russell, an old Englishman 
of Zacatecas, that the curate of Tamazula was a remarka- 



324 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



bly honest and discreet man, in all his transactions ; agree- 
able to the manners and customs Df the country, — for by no 
other standard can an European or a North American judge 
of Mexicans, but by the contrast of the habits of somie with 
others, in the peculiar characteristics of their national cha- 
racter. They are entirely independent of all the world else, 
in their religious, political and social relations — having at 
the same time all of the institutions of the rest of civiliza- 
tion, — yet differing materially in their practice of the fun- 
damental principles of them ; their teachers, the priests, and 
the old Spaniards causing them to believe that they are the 
perfection of creation, and that it is their high prerogative 
to make all mankind bend to their supremacy, in conjunc- 
tion with the religion of Christ, the Apostles and the Pope ; 
in order to answer their own selfish purposes. I have not, 
for the life of me, been able to discover from whence those 
enlightened and refined people have derived their power, to 
be the best commentators on ethics, expositors of law, and 
arbitrators of social compacts. 

Tamazula is situated on what is called the Tamazula 
river ; it being the same stream that floods out of the Madre 
Monte, upon which Caneles is built; but from the junction 
of the Umaya with it, it assumes the name of Culiacan, and 
continues to be a deep broad stream, until it arrives upon 
the plain next to the ocean. It there sinks, and is absorbed 
by the sand ; and mouths in the Pacific — an insignificant 
and diminutive river. 

The city of Culiacan is situated near the union of the 
above named rivers. It contains about five thousand in- 
habitants, and is the capital of the department of Sinaloa. 
The city does not differ in its appearance, or in the charac- 
ter of its people, from any other capital of Mexico. But 
there, as in the other cities, the priests, with their broad 
brimmed shovel hats, and the military, have congregated to 
take care of the souls and weal of their dear people ! General 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



325 



Urea is the appointed king-bird of the corn-crib in that 
department. 

Cosala is a town about one day's travel from Culiacan, 
and from Cosala it is but two days' journey to the port of 
Mazatlan on the Pacific ocean. Mazatlan is entirely de- 
fenceless from the surges and winds of the ocean, not pos- 
sessing any of the attributes of a good harbour, and is un- 
safe for shipping, by it^ having a large rock immediately 
before the town, upon which vessels founder in time of 
storms. However, Mazatlan is the principal commercial 
port on the Mexican coast, on the Pacific ocean. It con- 
tains about five thousand inhabitants, composed of every 
people from the four quarters of the globe, and seems to have 
been an attractive point for all the varieties of the human 
family. I imagine that the same number of people can 
hardly be found, where there is such a farago of complex- 
ions and tongues. 

Mazatlan is the principal stopping point in a voyage from 
China, by way of the Sandwich Islands, to the United States 
and Europe. The scale and the shell-filh of the Pacific 
coasts are abundant arid excellent. There is a blue-gilled 
oyster caught upon this coast, equal to any of those in the 
Chesapeake bay. The Mexicans of the Pacific have a 
manner of preserving them, different from any other mode 
I ever heard of. Immediately upon taking them from the 
water, they are thrown upon the fire, and when roasted un- 
til the shell opens, the oyster is salted and dried. Put up in 
this manner it will soundly keep in any climate, just like the 
mackerel that are barreled up in salt. 

On the plains of the Pacific coast I enjoyed perspiration, 
the atmosphere being more dense and humid than in the in- 
terior, and the heights of little elevation. Instead of the 
south-west winds having always a refreshing coolness in 
them, it was not unfrequently the case that they resembled 
the monsoons of the east. 

Guadaloupe de Calvo is a town of about ten thousand in- 



326 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



habitants. It is situated about two days' journey north of 
- Tamazula. It is, I was informed, of only ten or twelve 
years' existence, and its great population can only be ac- 
counted for from the fact that people congregate at such 
places where minerals are in successful operation. The sil- 
ver mines here are worked by an English company, under 
the management of Mr. John Buchan. The mines yielded 
very profitably, but the ore was becoming poor. The en- 
terprising agent informed me that it was his intention to seek 
new veins, and abandon those of Guadaloupe de Calvo. 

The houses of Guadaloupe are covered with shingles, and 
the windows had sashes and glass in them, as the English 
were the first builders there, and besides timber is plentiful 
in the mountains. 

The mountain regions around Guadaloup6 abounded in very 
rich silver ore. An English gentleman related to me an in- 
teresting account of the richest vein of silver perhaps that 
was ever opened. At a place called Refugia, (the refuge,) 
an Indian, who followed the trade of making pack-saddles, 
having ascended a mountain in search of "a particular kind 
of grass, which he used for the purpose of stuffing, per- 
ceived, under a turf, a rock matted to a bunch of roots. 
Upon examining the stone, he found that it was heavier than 
rocks of that size generally are, and exhibited the specimen 
to a Spaniard, who informed him that it was one-half silver. 
The liberal Indian told the Spaniard where he had made 
the valuable discovery, and offered him a free gift of one 
half of his right in the mine. The partners, with buoyant 
hopes, commenced proving the value of their enterprises 
which resulted in the entire vein being one-half silver, and 
the other half stone. After they had extracted several mil- 
lions of dollars of the precious metal, the mine became im- 
poverished, and was abandoned, and the Indian and his 
partner were left worse off than when they first began to 
try their fortune. They were remarkably industrious in 
squandering their money faster than it could be dug from 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



327 



the earth. The Spaniard is no more ; the poor Indian is 
yet ahv^e, and a beggar at Mazatlan. 

The inland road to CaHfornia is direct from Guadaloupe 
de Calvo, north-west to the mouth of the Colorado river, 
where it enters into the Gulf of California. This way is 
like the most of all others of the Mexican roads, being noth- 
ing more than Indian trails, travelled only by animals, and 
never by carriages. 

The country between Guadaloupe de Calvo and the Col- 
orado river is much infested by the Apache Indians, who 
are very barbarous, often cutting off the nose and ears of 
travellers, close to the head, and then turning them loose to 
their fate. 

The ports of Mazatlan and Guaymas are the usual ports 
of embarkation to Lower and Upper California, by the way 
of the ocean. But as I have preferred to comprehend my 
observations on California in a supplement to my journal, 
the reader is referred to their perusal as thus embodied. 

By the 25tli of April, I returned to Caneles. My journey 
to the tierra calienta (the hot region) had been a very pleas- 
ing one ; for, while there, the pores of my skin had been 
opened, and instead of looking and feeling as if I should dry 
up like a chip, as in the arid elevations of the Cordilleras, I 
enjoyed a healthful glow, with sometimes a pi'ofuse perspi- 
ration upon the surface, which caused my whole system to 
feel as if I had been turned loose from a prison-house, for 
the benefit of free respiration. 

The inhabitants of the tierra calienta differ very much 
in their appearance from those of the tierra frio and the ti- 
erra temjplado, the cold and the temperate plains. The peo- 
ple of the hot clime are of a darker tinge, excepting those 
who with care confine themselves to the shade. With these 
the continued perspiration has the efiect of purifying and 
bleaching the cheeks. There was another marked differ- 
ence observable — although the major part of the population 
had not such robust frames, nor looked so healthy, there 



328 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

were more persons of plethoric habit in the hot, than either 
of the other regions. 

The table lands are healthy, the people mostly dying of 
old age. A barber of a northern department shaved me, 
who was said to be ninety years of age. This man said 
he had been barber and chamberlain to two of the viceroys 
of Mexico. His hand was steady, and his deportment firm. 

The ladies of Mexico consider the hair of their heads one 
of the most attractive ornaments. It is only in the tierra 
calienta that it can grow to perfection, sometimes reaching 
to the ground ; and, when dishevelled, covering the whole 
body, 

I have never yet learned from philosophy or philosophers, 
why it is that upon the same latitudes of the Atlantic and 
Pacific coasts, the thermometer ranges many degrees higher 
on the latter than on the former sea-board. By survey, it is 
estimated that the Pacific is higher than the Atlantic, and 
consistent with both theory and well-known experience other- 
wise, the greater elevation is colder than the lesser. Is it 
because the snow-capped mountains of the greater altitude 
are upon the Atlantic coast, extending to the atmosphere 
there a cooling efficacy, which cannot reach to the opposite 
side of the continent ? Possibly the fixed laws of the at- 
mospheric currents, from the ice regions, of the poles, may 
sweep stronger from north to south, and vice versa, upon the 
Atlantic shores. As it is n'ot within my humble sphere to 
divine the results of philosophical causes, I shall leave my 
inquiry, if worthy of attention, to be responded to by those 
who are practical on such subjects. 

Business demanded that I should not long repose from 
travel, and accordingly on the 29th instant, I departed from 
Caneles for Guanosebi. My route lay across the Madre 
Monte, but in a different direction to the one I had pre- 
viously travelled, being to the north-east. I was unaccom- 
panied by an interpreter; consequently my conversation 
with the Mexican gentleman who accompanied me was ex- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 329 

pressed in a very laconic, and often in an unintelligible 
manner; so much so that I became disgusted with its disa- 
greeableness, and abandoned, for six days, speaking, unless 
when necessity obliged me. After sleeping six nights in the 
open air, I arrived, on the seventh day, at the place of my 
destination, a town containing between two and three thou- 
sand inhabitants. 

In whatever condition I was placed, I found in the face of 
nature some lovehness to admire, or some curious phenom- 
enon upon which to speculate. While extended on my back 
on the ground, with my face towards the sky, when camp- 
ing out, the remarkable moon-shine of Mexico never failed 
to absorb my attention. It differs from the light of the sun, 
only in that the latter has always a red glare of burning 
brilliancy, while the soft and silvery light of the moon is 
brilliant enough to enable the beholder to see almost as dis- 
tinctly as by the illuminating rays of the king of the day. 

It cannot be doubted that, in a tropical and arid region, 
the moon does light the earth more brightly than is the case 
in a less elvated and more northern latitude. Would that I 
were able to describe a Mexican moon-shine ! Without a 
cloud to spot the sky, the stars twinkle more brightly in her 
absence. They are more numerous, and display themselves 
in more clusters than are seen through our humid at- 
mospheres. The vision takes hold of objects far removed, 
and with a discrimination nearly equivalent to that afforded 
by the light of day — the air is clear, as when in the morn- 
ing the moment preceding the rising of the sun in the full 
blaze of light. The atmosphere is always mild and balmy 
at night, and, in the warmer valleys, the gentle zephyrs 
floating over the plains are congenial, affording an enjoy- 
ment which in truth renders it a luxury to repose under the 
canopy and protection of heaven. 

At Guanosebi I was so fortunate as to meet with Mr. Bu- 
chan, who was on a visit to that place, to try experiments 
on the silver ore there. All of the rocks upon and under the 



330 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

surface of the earth, partake more or less of silver. Mr. 
Buchan informed me that he should open a mine at that 
place, which he thought would be profitable. To him, and 
also to his Mexican lawyer, who seemed to be very much 
of a gentleman, I was under obligations for their liberal 
aid in endeavouring to accomplish an unsuccessful litiga- 
tion with a citizen of that town. 

After the general and the priest, the lawyer is the most 
formidable personage in Mexico. Mr. Buchan related that, 
in consequence of the many difficulties which originate in 
transacting business with the Mexicans, he found it to be 
a matter of both importance and profit to employ, continu- 
ally, on behalf of the company, a lawyer ; by doing which 
he only found it necessary, in the commencement of diffi- 
culties with obstreperous customers, to call into his presence 
his lawyer, and all obstacles were removed. 
. On the second day after I had commenced my return 
to Caneles from Guanosebi, we suddenly came in view of 
an extensive field, and my Mexican friend, and all of the 
servants, in one voice, exclaimed — " Santa Anna's hacienda 
campus !" — They seemed to be more rejoiced than if the 
property had belonged to themselves. To me, it was ano- 
ther convincing proof of the undying attachment of the 
Mexican people for their tyrant. 

The brilliancy of his bloody exploits, and his chicanery 
and art, by which he has subdued them to his will, has filled 
the inhabitants with awe and reverence, which ever will 
result in that renowned chieftain being their master. If at 
any time a sudden revolution should displace him, it must 
be but temporary ; for no sooner can he pitch his squadrons 
in the field, than the dread of his anger and terrible revenge 
will subdue his enemies, and quiet his countrymen, (as has 
always been the result of his pohtic conduct,) who will fall 
down at his feet and cry — Hail, Dictator ! 

The officers of the government are all of his own crea- 
ting — his generals are the governors of cities and depart- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 331 

ments, and of his own appointing.— And although they may, 
at the outset, have joined the standard of the revolutionary 
party, yet, no sooner do they behold Santa Anna's banner 
floating in the breeze than they will forsake their sacred ob- 
ligations, vowed to constitutional liberty, and fly to the 
usurping master they were pledged to conquer. Away 
with the mockery of presidential and dictatorial chiefs ! — 
Call not a military despotism a republic ! — The lovers of free- 
dom scorn the deformity. — Make Santa Anna king — empe- 
ror ! — and no matter how hard he may goad a people, too 
base to be sensible of their own wrongs, and too treache- 
rous to defend their pubUc institutions. y^- pF:^ 
While upon my journey I met with the courier, who in- 
formed my companion that many murders had recently 
been committed by the ladrones, on the public high-ways ; 
and also that Santa Anna was preparing for a war with the 
United States and England at the same time. The courier 
seemed to have no apprehensions of defeat on his master's 
account, but appeared to be well assured that Mexico 
would triumph in the contest. 

i' The mails of Mexico are most generally carried by In- 
dians on foot, who transport them, from post to post, more 
speedily than it could be by horses. An Indian, freighted 
only with his small wallet of corn-meal, and his little pack- 
age of letters, will take his straight course over mountain, 
hill and dale, that cannot be travelled by animals, and by 
that means shorten the distance, overcoming space in a 
manner wonderful to be related. The robbers never molest 
them, for money is never carried in the mails, or the In- 
dians possessed of valuables. 



332 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Retui-n to Caneles. Apache Indians. Two small boys of tender years. Commence my re- 
turn journey. Manage two men better than three or six. Pioneer round my camp. The 
Madre Monte pass. Ladrones on the way. How to know ladrones. Received at Duran- 
go. Mr. Charles E. Bowes. An individual who has been long from home. Two new ser- 
vants. Departiire from Durango. My servants not good packers. Arrived at the hacienda 
campus de la Casa Blanca. Irrigating dam of water. Corn-field. Pastoral lands. Spec- 
ulation in old horses. Purchased two paek-mules. A mule runs away. A nearer and better 
route. Storm, and hospitality of a Mexican. Wet condition of ray cargo. Descending to 
a lower region. Distress and hazard. Slept in a separate raneho. A signal given. Defeat 
of contemplated attack. Arrived at the mineral town of Matehanla. Discharged my ser- 
vants. Wealthy Mexican. An American. Summons before the Alcalde. The law-suit 
determined. Second summons before the Alcalde. Aresentation of my commission. News- 
paper from the U. S. Texians. President Tyler. An old Spaniard. His daughter. Fruits 
and vegetables. 

I returned to Caneles on the 25th of May, not without 
having incurred the hazard of battle with the Apache In- 
dians, as it was said by the people living east of the Madre 
Monte, that that tribe had supplanted the Camanches, and 
were infesting the mountains. 

Having taken under my charge my two nephews — small 
boys of tender years — and having resolved on returning to 
the United States ; at one time I contemplated embarking 
from the port of Mazetlan to my far distant home, but the 
idea of twice crossing the equator, and living five or six 
months on the ocean, made me abandon that project. 

I therefore determined that, without delay, as the rainy 
season was rapidly approaching, I would hazard my desti- 
ny in a journey across the continent to the port of Tampico 
on the Gulf of Mexico, as that journey seemed to be the 
least fraught with evils. 

In accordance with my last resolve, having closed my 
business at Caneles, I, on the 30th of May, commenced my 
return-journey to Tampico, distant from Caneles about se- 
venteen hundred miles. In consequence of my former dif- 
ficulties with interpreters, I was unwilling to employ one. 
Having learned also, by experience, and the many fatal 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 333 

casualties which had happened to others, the danger of hav- 
ing a large body of armed servants, 1 resolved to employ 
but two, this number being less by one than I should have 
had ; however, it was my opinion that, in case of conspiracy, 
I could manage two better than three. 

One of my servants was a good-looking man, of about 
fifty years of age, and had been recommended to me as 
being trust-worthy ; the other was a younger man, of his 
selection, being his compadre, or god-brother. 

While travelling in the mountains, where I was obliged 
to sleep under the canopy of the heavens for my house-top, 
and the Madre Monte for my bed of down, I informed my 
two men that, when the hour of repose had arrived, they 
must not rise from their serapis unless called to do so by 
me ; and told them if my orders were violated they must 
take the consequences. I had obtained an abundance of 
China tea, and, after my nephews had been put into their 
carteras, and the servants had reclined upon the earth, I 
took good care to keep my large tea-pot at the fire, and at 
intervals, during the whole night, I freely indulged in drink- 
ing the beverage. It was my determined policy never to 
let my men know when I slept ; and what more astonished 
me than any thing else was that, in the extremity of the 
excited condition in which each night would find me, I had 
perfect control of my waking and sleeping moments. My 
belt of arms could not have weighed less than eight or ten 
pounds, yet I never unbuckled it from my body ; and, after 
the fatigues of the day, I would rise from my couch, re- 
peatedly during the night, to see that all was well, and pio- 
neer I'ound my camp ; on every such occasion I would, 
solitary and alone, take a hearty draught of my strong 
green tea. 

While seated near the burning faggots, and the low night- 
breeze was sighing through the tall forests of the mountains, 
by the cheerful exhilarating excitement which the tea pro- 
duced, I thought of the friends with whom I once revelled 



334 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

over the wine-glass; and I was reminded often of the fa- 
mihar ballad : 

" Oft in the stilly night, 

Ere slumber's chains have bound me, 
Fond memory brings the light 
Of other days around me," &c. 

The Madre Monte passed, I lodged for the last time at 
the village of the Boca de la Santa Cataline, on the 17th of 
June. On the 24th I arrived in safety at the city of Du- 
rango; though not without having twice encountered la- 
drones on the way. The first time, my company being, 
fortunately, increased by being joined to that of other tra- 
vellers, prevented the robbers from making an attack : the 
second, in which I at one time almost gave our chance up, 
I was so well seconded by my old servant, who showed 
such strong symptoms of fight when the ladrones made 
their first demonstration of attack, that the day was our 
own. Hostilities commenced by the ladrones brandishing 
their weapons, and shouting and twirhng their lassoes in 
the air; while they rode around us in a circuitous direc- 
tion. 

When the traveller thus beholds his assailants, he must, 
without hesitation, show his foe by his preparations and 
bold stand, that he will never surrender, and dare them to 
battle ; they will then suppose that the booty to be gained 
may not be worth the hazard. They will sheer off* and soon 
be lost entirely to sight. However, when the traveller, on 
such an occasion, has exhibited his willingness for action, 
and the enemy does not retreat, but continues to keep up 
the charge, he must not lose the most suitable moment to 
fire upon the foremost of the party. The best aim is at the 
horn of the saddle, for a side or front shot. 

I was received at Durango by my acquaintances with the 
same hospitahty and attention which had characterized my 
first visit. It was my good fortune to meet, on this occa- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



335 



sion, a fellow-countryman, Mr. Charles E. Bowes, an artist 
from St. Louis, Mo. His talents were doing him much 
credit in Mexico, and he had the promising hopes of a rich 
reward for his adventurous enterprise. 

Through Mr. B. I obtained some intelligence from the 
United States, it being the first news I had received for 
several months. He informed me that when he left home, 
it was his intention to spend the winter in New Orleans, and 
showed me letters of introduction he had received and taken 
to that city. One of them was from F. W. Risque, Esq., a 
lawyer of St. Louis. The well-known handwriting of that 
gentleman, seen unexpectedly in a foreign country, touched 
the feelings of my heart, for he had been my early play- 
mate, and we had grown to manhood together, being the 
nearest neighbours in old Virginia. 

An individual who has been long from home, and is 
fatigued with travel, is the first person to seek pleasure, as 
well as to recognise any thing locally familiar or national. 
On my arrival at Durango, I again patronised the De la 
Santa Paula Meson. No sooner did I dismount, than my 
host informed me that there were two other Americans with 
him. They proved to be Mr. W. H. Folly, the India-rub- 
ber man, and Mr. J. R. Hamblin, the Achilles, who fired a 
cannon from his shoulder, and pulled against two or more 
horses. On the 26th inst., Sunday, their exhibition was to 
come off at the Plaza de los Torres, which I attended. It 
was truly surprising to witness the unbounded admiration 
expressed by the spectators. But while the American per- 
formers attracted the attention of the Mexicans, my own 
was by the performances of the native clown, who had 
robed himself like a saint, bound his head with a wreath, 
and painted his face white. If the limit of decency would 
permit, my readers would be more astonished at a synopsis 
of his address to an audience of five thousand persons, than 
the citizens were at the show. 

The performances concluded, I accepted an invitation to 



336 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



a ride in the Alemade ; but after the coach had passed a 
few times round the place, it came in contact with another 
vehicle, the result of which w^as to break down both, in ac- 
cordance, I thought, with my usual fate in carriage riding; 
there, before thousands of people, the pleasure excursion ter- 
minated. At night, in company with my friend Mr. Bowes, 
I visited the theatre, and there enjoyed the sight of the nu- 
merous and splendid assembly of ladies, more than I did the 
dull prosy performances. The prompter was stationed im- 
mediately in front of the stage, and read every syllable of 
the play, while the actors mouthed the words after him. 

At the city of Durango I obtained two new servants, as 
my Caneles men would not further leave their homes. My 
friend Mr. Stalknit drew off the articles of agreement be- 
tween us — one of which was, that I should, on their return 
journey, give them a horse each. Every preparation being 
made, upon the 28th inst. I departed from Durango. I 
chose a direction to the left of that which I had formerly 
travelled ; yet my course was due south ; I had been parti- 
cular in obtaining from an individual a way-bill of my 
route, with the names of places I could stop at, each a day's 
journey apart. 

I had not travelled more than two days before I disco- 
vered that my servants were not, or pretended not to be, 
good packers, for my mules seemed to be suffering much 
from their cargoes. My suspicions were at once aroused, 
for I well knew that Mexican servants, who were in the 
habit of travelling, understood how to load an animal. My 
men had besides been recommended to me as being the best 
of arrieros. However, in eight days time, I arrived at the 
Hacienda Campus Casa Blanca, the estate of the White 
house. The journey was fatiguing, and my horses and 
mules were much jaded by the trip. So I determined to 
remain a few days at that place. 

At Casa Blanca the buildings were good, and my quar- 
ters excellent. The estate was under the best improved 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



337 



condition of any that I had an opportunity of examining in 
all Mexico. In the first instance, there was an irrigating 
dam of water, one league and a half in extent. It was 
formed by a wall of earth and stone, built from hill to hill, 
and was filled by the rains. The water had, up to the time 
of my visit, been turned from it in a stream of eighteen 
inches in diameter, for a period of six weeks, to water the 
various parts of a corn field — two leagues and a half square. 

The water was conducted over the land by canals, and 
turned upon the furrows by flood gates at intervals, the 
canals running along the higher elevation of the farm. 
There was corn sealed up in many cone-like houses of from 
one to three years of age. There were other extensive 
lands used for pasturing purposes, upon which hundreds of 
animals grazed. There was at the principal granary a 
stack of what the Mexicans call fodder, at least fifty feet 
high and three hundred in length. Oca, fodder, in Mexico 
is the stalk with the blade not cured separately, but cut all to- 
gether. 

Indeed, I have, in the hot damp valleys, seen corn that 
had been thickly sown for the purpose of making fodder. 
The estate belonged to one of the most enterprising and 
speculating citizens of Mexico. I was informed that he 
once bought two thousand old horses, at two dollars each, 
and that when they were boiled into soap, they averaged 
him fifteen dollars apiece. 

At Casa Blanca, in consequence of the injuries my ani- 
mals had sustained, I purchased two excellent pack mules. 
I did not at that place exchange my Durango servants, as I 
had an opportunity of doing, fearing that if I did, I might 
only be turning loose two knaves to follow me, at the same 
time I would only have two others of a like character in my 
employment. Thus conditioned, I again commenced my 
journey, intending not to rest until I should reach Mate- 
haula, distant six days journey from Casa Blanca. 

Upon my set out from the rancho of the white house, I 
22 



338 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

experienced a vexation, which ultimately resulted fatally to 
one of my mules. My servants had chosen to pack the ani- 
mal which I had only recently purchased, with a cargo, and 
when my caravan was put in motion, the wild animal, 
being turned loose, with the usual shrill whistle and whoop, 
instead of keeping company with the rest, bounded over the 
plain with the speed of a greyhound ; and every moment I 
expected my trunks would be burst open, and my money 
and goods scattered over the ground. However, the beast 
was with some difficulty lassoed, and all was righted; but 
not before its loins had been so injured by the shifting of its 
load, that the poor beast fell powerless to the earth. It was 
as fine an animal of the kind as I ever saw, and had cost 
me, on the day previous, twenty -five dollars. Its cargo was 
attached to another mule, and we proceeded on our journey. 

About mid day my oldest nephew, whom I had instruct- 
ed to be attentive to the conversation of my servants, in- 
formed me that my men said, that they would not travel the 
way I had directed. Upon my charging them with the 
fact, they insisted that they knew a nearer and a better 
route, which they said they would prefer, for my benefit. 
I peremptorily said, that, at the peril of their lives, they 
were not to deviate from the carmino real, the principal 
road, and that I would hold them responsible to deliver me 
at the different houses I would daily direct them to. 

That day's journey, to my great joy, put me on the east 
side of the Cordilleras, where perhaps lies buried more of 
the precious metals than the world will ever have industry 
sufficient to excavate : for it seemed as if a continued vein 
of silver ran through their whole extent. I was rejoiced to 
have those high, romantic, and bright silvery mountains to 
my rear ; for while locked up between them they shut off 
from my view the oft-repeated lingering looks that I would 
cast towards the skies that hovered between myself and my 
own distant home. The M^aters of the Atlantic would be a 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 339 

blessing to my sight, while the shores of the United States 
promised to be my elysium upon earth. 

The night of my first day's travel was most disagreeably 
spent at a wretched rancho in a deep glen. I had directed 
my servants to put up my carteras under a beautiful mus- 
quiti tree that stood before the door of a small filthy house, 
but by the time they commenced their work, a cloud sud- 
denly sprung up, and the kind Mexicans invited me to lodge 
within doors. At the time I felt very grateful, but no soon- 
er did the rain begin to pour down, than it ran through the 
flat roof and flooded in at the walls — while I sat all night 
with my youngest boy in my arms, and the other one was 
laid up on a shelf. I only thanked God that the frail tene- 
ment of dirt did not tumble to the earth. My principal care 
was to preserve my arms and ammunition from being dam- 
aged. I therefore had my guns and pistols wrapped up in 
the buffalo robes to keep them dry : at the same time, how- 
ever, I did not part with those around my body, as I always 
regarded them as my best friends. The buckle of my belt 
was never disturbed, except to draw it tighter, when I 
was pinched with hunger, or overpowered with fatigue ; in- 
deed, from the commencement to the end of my journey, it 
was lengthened about six inches, leaving me but the shadow 
of my original self. 

The next day dawned clear and cloudless. Notwithstand- 
ing the wet condition of my cargo, my kitchen suffering the 
greatest injury, I had to throw away my stock of crackers 
and dried beef, as in that climate such articles will not keep 
after a wetting. Our journey lay across the dominions of 
the Conde de Coral, the most wealthy of all the citizens 
of Mexico, as I was informed. Ever since I had left the 
Cordilleras on my rear, my direction was a little south of 
due east. As I progressed, it was observable that I was ra- 
pidly descending from an elevated to a lower region ; for 
the towering peaks of the back-bone mountains were lost to 
my view, while the distant points of others would anon 



340 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



show their heads, in a country far below the elevation that 
I was on. I remarked that the end of each day's journey 
would place me upon a declivity, beneath that of the for- 
mer one. In one instance, my entire day's travel was in 
the evening closed by abruptly descending a short height, 
which put me upon a plain as much below the former one, 
as was the elevation of the hills to my rear. You are right, 
Mr. Kendall, if I mistake you not, (your book not being at 
present in my possession,) in calling those tables " steps," 
for, while traversing them, I felt as if, had I only had on the 
boots of the famous giant-killing Jack, I could have strided 
down them as nimbly as ever you yourself descended the 
marble flight of the St. Charles portico at New Orleans. 

These plains are chiefly wooded with palm-trees, appa- 
rently not possessing the sterility of the table lands of the 
CordilleraSi I progressed as rapidly as circumstances would 
allow, not alone for the reason that I wished to terminate 
my general distress and hazard, but also the more especially 
on account of my apprehensions with my servants. Besides 
having sufficient convictions of the evil intentions of these 
men, they were the only Mexicans in my employment who 
had ever presumed to be impertinent to me. Supposing 
that I was bound to take them to Tampico, they did not think 
I would discharge them on my arrival at Matehaula, pro- 
vided they spared my life for so long a time. 

Their criminal designs were clearly demonstrated by their 
every act, and I felt convinced at the same time that, to 
part with them before I reached Matehaula, would only be 
to increase my dangers. I was for ever on the alert, day 
and night, knowing that my safety depended on showing 
the ruffians that I had no confidence in them, and at every 
moment held them at defiance. I had been cautioned to 
beware of my servants, by an old Mexican gentleman at 
Casa Blanca, who instructed me never to suffer either of 
them, on any occasion, to ride behind me ; or, when the 
lasso was in their hands, not to be within its influence. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 341 

I was particular to make my servants keep in front of 
me, my two nephews riding in the centre of the party, 
while I rode at the distance of fifteen or twenty paces in 
the rear. Thus I had my whole caravan perpetually before 
my eyes ; having the advantage, in the result of a conflict, 
not to have to turn or wheel to meet my foe. Upon the 
fourth morning of my journey, having spent the night pre- 
vious at a shepherd's rancho, I discovered after about an 
hour's ride, that we were about to pass a narrow defile, 
where the points of two mountains tapered suddenly to the 
plain. It happened that just in the level space between the 
heights, my men dismounted to tighten the ropes that held 
the cargo of one of my mules, and in doing so they so 
frightened the rest of the animals that they left the road, and 
scattered in the thick musquiti growth. I immediately unfas- 
tened my double-barreled gun, and springing both the locks, 
made a brisk and circuitous ride to head my animals and 
drive them again into the proper track, which at length I 
succeeded in accomplishing. At that moment I heard a 
shrill whistle on the hill to my left hand ; I instantly wheeled 
to a half face to the men, and the same position towards the 
direction whence the sound proceeded. My servants stood 
motionless eyeing me, for they correctly supposed that my 
first shots would be levelled at them. Discovering that I 
held them at bay, I quickly looked around and plainly per- 
ceived the broad rim of a Mexican hat behind a large palm 
tree, at a distance of about thirty yards upon the hill. I di- 
rectly pointed my gun at the tree, and exclaimed, " Ladrone, 
yo estoy fronte comhate por vida e propriedad /" (" Robber, 
I am ready to fight for life and property.") To which the 
man behind the tree responded, " Senor, yo estoy unico a 
porbre pastor /" " (Sir, I am only a poor shepherd.") I di- 
rected my men to mount and go ahead. We had not ad- 
vanced far before one of my boys called out, " Mir a teo" 
(" look, uncle.") I spurred my horse forward, when up 
bounced another shepherd, with a pistol in his hand. The 



342 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

man seemed to be much alarmed, and was soon lost in the 
musquiti bushes. I shall never have a doubt tha,t my ser- 
vants had formed a conspiracy with the shepherds to rob 
me; but the scoundrels, discovering that their designs did 
not operate as they intended, were deterred from making 
the attack when the signal was given, and thus I escaped ! 

Upon the 14th day of June, I arrived at the mineral town 
of Matehaula, and put up at the meson de los Angelos, the 
meson of the angels. Here I met with a Mexican whom I 
had seen at Durango, and also an American. I explained 
to them the disagreeable situation I was in, and stated that 
it was my intention to discharge my servants, sell my ani- 
mals, and hire an arreiro, who could give good bond and 
security for my safe delivery at Tampico. The Mexican 
seemed to be a perfect gentleman, and had the reputation of 
being wealthy, and therefore honest, as they say in Mexico, 
because above the necessity of stealing. However, he ap- 
peared to take a lively interest in my welfare, and promised 
to make a contract for me with an arriero, whom, he said, 
he knew well, and for whom he would also enter as security 
on a bond before the Alcalde. Such a kind offer, and so 
unexpected, was thankfully accepted, and the gentleman 
made good all of his engagements. My American friend 
likewise put himself to the trouble of selHng my cargo 
mules, and further assisting me. 

I then summoned my servants to a settlement, and taking 
their receipts for the amount of money due them, let them se- 
lect two of my horses for their return to Durango. I was 
certainly obligated to furnish them with a horse each, but 
not to give them their choice of my animals, and I would 
not consent they should have their own selection. Howev- 
er, they summoned me to appear before the Alcalde, to show 
cause why they should not have my best horses. Although 
I felt satisfied as to the result of a law-suit with Mexicans, 
it being always decided against foreigners ; yet I determi- 
ned, for the novelty and experiment, to contest their claims. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 343 

My friend, the American, accompanied me to the Alcalde, 
and acted as my speaker on the occasion, being very fluent 
in the Spanish tongue. 

The case being opened, the Alcalde demanded to know- 
why I refused animals to my servants 1 My friend replied 
that I had not denied to my men their rights, but that I ob- 
jected that they should take from me my two best horses ; 
that he himself could testify to my having given them the 
choice of three animals, nearly as good as my best ones, 
and amply able to carry them all over the republic, and 
more my contract did not require of me. He then exhibit- 
ed the written agreement, with the signature of the two ser- 
vants affixed thereto, which only required that I should fur- 
nish two horses, for their return to Durango, and not my best 
animals. He also stated the perils and injuries I had re- 
ceived at their (the servants) hands. The Alcalde respon- 
ded that the poor fellows should have good horses to return 
home, and he expected, he said, that the animals left in my 
possession after the men had taken their choice would be 
good enough to answer my purposes ! Thus the law-suit 
terminated. Not disappointed with the decision of the case, 
I returned to my quarters, my friend accompanying me, 
much vexed at himself for his not being a better lawyer. 

We had been seated but a few moments in the room, 
when a Mexican appeared at my door. He was dressed 
with only a pair of scanty pants and a serapi, which was 
thrown over his left shoulder. He held a sword in his right 
hand, and said that the Alcalde had ordered him to summon 
us to appear instantly before him, to show by what authori- 
ty we were travelling in the Republic of Mexico. 

Such a mandate took me by surprise, for so singular a 
demand had never before been made of me, and I determi- 
ned to meet the crisis in the best way I was capable of do- 
ing. While my friend had retired to get his passport, I took 
occasion to doff my old travelling dress, and put on my con- 
sulate uniform, and, both being ready, we bade our naked 



344 TR AVELS IN MEXICO. 

swordsman to lead on. As we passed along the streets the 
people stared, and began to collect in groups, while many 
ladies fairly ran out of their houses to look at us. 

Arrived at the Alcalde's room I walked boldly in, making 
my sword, which I used like a cane, jingle upon the floor 
as I stepped up to the table, behind which the old black- 
eyed and grey-headed judge of law and equity was seated. 
The old fellow was very obsequious, and seemed to count 
every button on my coat, while the pens dropped from the 
fingers of the clerks. The consternation was laughably 
evident. After looking, for a moment, the officer of justice 
in the face, I threw him my commission, reserving behind 
my exequaior, to see if he knew any thing of his busi- 
ness. He unfolded the parchment awkwardly, turning it 
over and over, as if by so doing he could make Spanish out 
of it, and then handed it to his chief-clerk, who, perceiving 
there was a difficulty in it, stepped to a window to obtain a 
better light on the subject. He then turned it about in every 
direction, and endeavoured in vain to decipher the English 
of the commission, now holding it bottom upwards, as often 
as in any other position. His eyes at length caught the 
name of " Bocanegra, Minister of Foreign Relations," and^ 
with the same excitement as if he had discovered a gold 
mine, he shouted out, " Esta bueno.''^ — (it is very good) — 
and then handed me my document, as he did also my friend^s 
passport, with the accompanying — Esta bueno. 

My friend informed the dignified Alcalde, that it was a 
very serious thing to insult an American consul ; and, but 
that I was a good-natured man, I would forthwith commu- 
nicate to Santa Anna the decision he had made in the case 
of the horse, as well as the impertinent demand he had 
made of me, as to what right I had to travel in Mexico. 
We then left the apartment without my being asked for my 
exequator. The contemptible summons of the Alcalde I 
will ever remember, as the most amusing incident in my 
life. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 345 

At Matehaula I, for the first time since my departure 
from the city of Mexico, had the happiness of seeing a 
newspaper from the United States. My friend presented 
me with a New York Courier and Inquirer, which contained 
General Jackson's able letter on the subject of the annexa- 
tion of Texas. At that time I also learned, for the first time, 
that Mexico was about to renew the war with Texas, by 
marching thirty thousand of her troops into that country. I 
could but have many feelings of sorrow for ill-fated Texas, 
but at the same time I did not believe that the government 
of the United States would be so deficient of its honour, 
its interest and its duty, as to forsake Texas, and suffer her 
citizens to be slaughtered by a barbarous foe. 

I was the more encouraged in this opinion, in reading the 
soul-stirring response of the French minister to the House of 
Deputies of Mexico, touching the cruel and revolting inten- 
tions of that country to carry on the war. It convinced me 
that the civilized world would not quietly behold the brave 
Texians butchered, regardless of the laws of nations, and 
the sacred principles of humanity. 

The name of the President of the United States would 
have descended in infamy to posterity, if he had not inter- 
posed his warning voice to Mexico. The manly decision 
of character of President Tyler, upon the Texas question, 
has covered him with glory enough for any one man ; and 
the millions of people who will inhabit the fertile plains of 
Texas will, through all time, hail his memory as a bold de- 
fender of all that is held dear and sacred to civilized na- 
tions. 

There Hved at Matehaula an old Spaniard, who took up 
the impression that I was a doctor of medicine. He invited 
me to his house, and conducted me to his family chamber, 
where I was introduced to his wife and several other ladies. 
From thence he carried me into a large saloon that was 
splendidly furnished with furniture from the United States. 
From the ceiling of the high room was suspended a glass 



346 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

ship, completely rigged, which answered the double purpose 
of an ornament and a chandelier. 

From that room he took me from one apartment to an- 
other, until we at length entered a handsomely furnished 
room, having a bed, on which was a lady. Taking me by 
the hand he conducted me to the bed-side and said, " There, 
what do you think of her V The poor woman seemed to 
be rapidly breathing her life away, for the rattling in her 
lungs could be h a d at several paces from her. She pressed 
my hand, and wished to know her malady ; the father in- 
sisted also, and I replied that it was consumption. He in- 
stantly seized my other hand, and grasping it, said, " You 
are right, for my daughter has, for the last seven years, 
been lingering under that disease — and if you can give her 
a healing remedy your reward shall be whatever you may 
ask." 1 made my several excuses, and finally relieved my- 
self by tacitly promising a mixture. 

The old Spaniard seemed to take much interest in me, 
visiting me often on that day. He said that the only appre- 
hension he had of my safe arrival in Tampico was that, as 
the Texian war was to be renewed, the war-cry of the 
populace and the army there would be " Muirte en todo 
Americanos /" (Death to all Americans !) 

I had, ever since the commencement of my journey from 
Casa Blanca, been descending to a hot region, and at Ma- 
tehaula I found fruits and vegetables in abundance. The 
sweet orange and the lemon, the pine-apple and the banana, 
the plantains, plums, pears, peaches and water-melons also 
were abundant. I obtained also some delightful lettuce 
cucumbers and tomatoes, which I found most congenial to 
my appetite ; for when travelling I could never buy vegeta- 
bles, excepting in the towns. But I must be permitted to 
say that, at Matehaula, I, much to my regret, consumed the 
last remainder of a ham which I had purchased of a French- 
man at the city of Durango, at the dear rate of five dollars 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3417 

and sixty-two and a half cents. It weighed ten pounds ten 
ounces. 

But an individual, who had been accustomed all his life to 
eat good bacon, finds that, after a long privation, he is wil- 
ling to pay any price for that old familiar diet. The Mexi- 
cans are not fond of indulging in the meat of hogs, for they 
say that devils reside in them. For myself, I think this a 
great mistake, for the evil spirits must have come out of the 
swine creation, and taken up their abode in the hearts of 
the Mexicans themselves — for while the flesh of the one is 
healthy and good, the deeds of the others are those of the 
devil. If a problem in Euclid can be more satisfactorily de- 
monstrated than the above, then I shall ever have a doubt 
remaining on my mind, respecting the capacity of the hu- 
man intellect to arrive at just conclusions, by a systematic 
course of reasoning. 



3i8 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Ariieroo. Beparture from Matehaula, Old Spaniard and ray American fiiend. Picture of 
the crucifixion. Beyond the confines of tbetown. Ranchointhe defiles of two mountains. 
Opening of the earth. My servants diligent and faithful men. Rolling and wooded coun- 
try. One of my men a merry little fellow. Expertness with the lasso. Aherera a Spanish 
Jesuit. Arrived at the town of Tola. . Fertile and hilly country. A mountain cross. A hilly 
and well-watered valley. Splendid scenery. A grotto, the residence of a saint. Servants 
dismount. A saint of Socono. The rainy season. Occasional rains. Arrived at 'I'am- 
pico a Sajita Anna. Custom-house officer. Meson kept by Mons. Constant Marcuet, 
Meeting with Mr. John Fulton. Situation of Tampico. Houses and plazas. Santa 
Anna's victory. Capt. F. Chase, U. S, Consul. Texas, question of the nt-xt session. An- 
nexation of upper California. Columbia river. Rail-i-oad to New Orleans. Napoleon. 
An examination of the map. Public lands. Monopoly of commerce. Different connex- 
ions. Annexation of Mexico. Southern boundary of the U. S. No limit to the north. 
Hudson bay and Mississippi rail-road. Home protection. Free trade. Russian pos- 
sessions 

On the morning of the 18th inst., the arrieros, three in 
number, whom the pohte Mexican had employed to trans- 
port me to Tampico, arrived, and v^^ere in due attendance 
to receive my freight. 

The old Spaniard and my American friend were also pre- 
sent to witness my departure, and take leave of me. Hav- 
ing settled my meson bill, and embraced my friends, as I 
was riding out of the great court of the house the old keeper 
ran up to me, as is often the custom in that country, and 
presented to me the picture of Christ bearing the cross. I 
well understood the old man's object; it was his last oppor- 
tunity of appealing to me for money. It is always expected 
that he who presents to an individual the print of a saint, 
or any of the holy family, should receive more or less change 
for a donation. 

The wicked thought, at the moment, occurred to me, to 
pretend not to understand him ; and I asked, if the picture 
was intended for Santa Anna ? He, with some surprise, 
said that it was not. I then inquired, if it was Bocanegra 
or Tornel ? With much anger he denied that it was either, 
and in turn asked me if I was a Jew ? He said that the 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



349 



picture was Christo muestro Salvador, (Christ our master and 
Saviour.) My American friend, at that, gave me to under- 
stand, that I was in a difficulty. I took the picture, looked 
at it, made the sign of the cross and threw the man a dacha, 
which seemed to please him, and I departed. 

The priests in Mexico are not the only people who make 
a commerce of their religion. It is the privilege of any in- 
dividual to hawk about saints, for money-making purposes. 
My old friend on foot followed me beyond the confines of 
the town, during which time he shook my hand three sever- 
al times. Having, in the most emphatic manner, assured me 
that my journey would be a safe one, he ascended a mound 
of earth which gave him an extensive view of the plain, 
and as often as I looked behind me, I could behold him in 
the same position, his large gold-headed cane glistening in 
the sun, as he waved his hand, the peculiar Spanish signal 
of adieu. Our course, after we lost sight of Matehaula, 
was due east. 

The night of the 18th, I spent at a rancho, situated in a 
defile of two mountains, at which place I witnessed a sin- 
gular phenomenon. Before reaching the house, I discover- 
ed that the narrow plain had an opening extending from 
mountain to mountain, from six to eighteen inches in 
breadth. It seemed as if the weight of the mountains had 
been too much for the earth to support, and thus cracked it. 
The Mexicans who lived there could not give me any infor- 
mation as to how, or when, it happened, which must have 
been during the convulsions of an earthquake. On a former 
occasion I witnessed, about ten miles north of the city of 
Durango, a place where a large portion of a plain had sunk 
to a general depth of twenty feet from its original elevation. 
The level surface of the plain seemed to have sustained 
no injury, while all along both sides of the mountains were 
plainly perceptible where the plain had abruptly broken off, 
and sunk to a deeper foundation. In lime-stone countries, as 



350 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

that is, such things were not before unknown — from the fall- 
ing in of the earth, to the great cavities beneath. 

My servants proved to be diligent and faithful men, at- 
tending to all of my interests with strict punctuality. To 
employ an arriero whose personal responsibility is such as 
to enable him to giv6 security for the safe deliverance of 
his charge, is the only mode by which freight or travellers 
can be transported. The arriero then has every thing at 
stake, and it may be expected that he will use every effort, 
even at the hazard of his life, to make good his engagement 
— not because he, in his peculiar occupation, is more honest 
than others of his countrymen, but for the reason that his 
obligations would make him the loser by his neglect qr want 
of bravery. Arrieros have been known to perform their 
obligatory duties in good faith, when at the same time they 
havQ plundered others, and murdered defenceless travellers. 

For seven days after my departure from Matehaula, my 
direction was over a country for the most part rolling, and 
better wooded than any other of the table lands I had seen 
in Mexico. Every thing seemed to pass off hueno, as the 
clerk had it. I noticed that my men appeared to know eve- 
ry person they met, and that I was greeted by all in a man- 
ner to which I had not formerly been used in the country. 
One of my men was a merry little fellow, who was perpetu- 
ally whistling and singing. He was very expert with the 
lasso, never suffering a horse, mule, or steer to escape him. 
He would heave at all animals that came in his way, and 
some of his rencontres were very diverting and exciting. 

The precision with which the lasso can be thrown by an 
experienced hand is truly astonishing, for it matters not how 
swift may be the speed of the animal, he can be taken by 
any limb and subdued. My man could catch at full speed 
a horse around the neck, and at the same time, by a slight 
twirl of the rope, form a perfect halter around the head and 
nose of the beast. 

On one occasion, not having live stock upon which to 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 35I 

practice, he discovered a dead mule lying on the plain, and 
cast his lasso so that it passed under the head of the pros- 
trate carcase, galloping off and dragging it after him. 
Nothing, he said, could lay so close to the ground but that 
he could take hold of it in the same manner. As he drag- 
ged off his defunct prey, the rattling of the bones within 
the entire skin of the dead mule, caused me to remember 
the account of Aherera, a Spanish Jesuit, who civilized the 
Indians of Chihuahua. He was interred at Santa Cruz, 
where he had died, in a vault of one of the churches. Not- 
withstanding he has been buried two hundred years, yet he 
is undecayed, and once every year his body is taken out of 
the tomb, dressed in his priestly gown, and set up in the 
midst of the congregation. Mass is then said for the repose 
of his soul. The atmosphere in Mexico, but more especial- 
ly in the more arid portions of the country, is of such a dry- 
ing nature that animal matter shrinks and dries away, rath- 
er than consume by putrid decomposition. 

On the 25th instant, I arrived at the town of Tola, a 
place containing about two thousand inhabitants, and situa- 
ted on an uneven and confined narrow slip of land, between 
two hills. At Tola I drank some excellent water. I also 
bought some good wine, and laid in a plentiful store of pro- 
visions, to last me until I should arrive at Tampico. 

On the morning of the 26th, I again commenced my 
journey. After travelling two leagues over a fertile an I 
highly cultivated country, I discovered that a mountain of 
considerable magnitude lay before me, over which the road 
wound. My journey was most disagreeable, for the recent 
rains had made the blac k mould of the earth very miry, and 
between mud and stone alternately, our animals progressed 
very slowly, and with much difliculty. Yet my journey 
was not without its interest, for the mountain was covered 
with the most magnificent forest of live oak that I ever be- 
held. 

After fording a small river at the foot of the mountain, 



J 



352 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



we travelled along an uneven and well-watered valley for 
about one hour, when we again commenced ascending a 
higher mountain. So precipitate was the height, that one- 
half of the day was consumed in gaining its summit by the 
zig-zag and narrow path. I was well repaid for the toil, 
for my eyes never before feasted so ravishingly as upon 
that occasion, when I cast them upon the level tierra cali- 
ente below me. 

The rains that had fallen had given to the abundant veg- 
etation a most perfect green aspect ; while the farm-houses, 
with their sharp thatched roofs, had a picturesque and ro- 
mantic appearance. The pleasure I enjoyed at beholding 
this scene was short-lived, as the most desirable blessings 
usually are ; fori had to proceed in my downward direc- 
tion, only occasionally obtaining from some prominent pro- 
jection a bold view of the enchanting landscape beneath, as 
it were to cheer my hopes of reaching some elysium. 

Having descended about half way down the steep, my 
men all suddenly dismounted, when I perceived other tra- 
vellers on foot. I was not long in discovering the object of 
the halt, for the arrieros gravely took off their hats, and 
having ascended a rude flight of steps for about twenty feet, 
they entered a small cavern in a large rock, and kneeled 
before an image. After praying devoutly, each one left a 
small piece of money on a niche in the cave. My Httle ne- 
phews, excited with awe, were desirous of following their 
example, and I gave them money to pay for their orisons, 
believing it would do them no harm? and thinking that the 
necessity of prayer instilled into their young minds might, 
in after life, be of valuable consideration to them. 

Upon inquiry, I ascertained that the image worshipped in 
the grotto was the protecting saint of travellers against la- 
drones. Many were the " hair-breadth 'scapes" related of 
travellers, through the instrumentality of that deity. Mar- 
vellous, indeed, are the wonder-working powers of many of 
the saints of Mexico ! I was informed of one of these who 



TEA VELS IN MEXICO. 353 

resided in a chapel at the village of Socono Chihuahua, who 
had such a repugnance to being taken from her home, for 
supernatural reasons, that every bold pretender who had at- 
tempted it was either struck dead, or found her too ponder- 
ous to be carried by human strength. 

It so happened that a Kentuckian, who had strayed by 
the way of St. Louis and Santa Fe, to the town of Passo 
del Norte, which is situated contiguous to Socono, hearing 
a party of gentlemen dilating upon the tenacity of the saint 
to her church, could not perceive how a wooden figure not 
larger than the common stature and proportion of a woman, 
could be either so heavy or self-willed. Agreeable to his 
habit of determining difficulties, he asked — what would the 
crowd bet that he could not bring her from the chapel into 
town 1 The company were awe-struck at the impiety of 
the man, and no response was made ; but he insisted on 
knowing who would lay a wager for his purpose. A Mexi- 
can who, like himself, could not resist an opportunity of 
betting, having also a strong faith in Saint Ysidore, took up 
the Kentuckian for an inconsiderable amount. Prompt to 
his sacrilegious purpose, the Kentuckian mounted his horse, 
and was not long absent, when he returned galloping into 
Passo del Norte with Saint Ysidore, dressed in all her di- 
vine apparel, seated behind him. He certainly gained the 
bet, but the gathering mob informed him that he would have 
to fly from the town for his life. 

As I have before remarked, my return journey was begun 
at the commencement of the wet season. The rains are in 
some degree periodical during the day, as they are in the 
months of the year. About noon clouds are perceived, and 
the traveller can bivouac ; by the hour of three o'clock, the 
tempest of rain and lightning will have passed over, and 
the traveller can again proceed. However, in the month 
of June, the first of the three wet months, the rains are ir- 
regular ; but, when they do fall, they pour in torrents upon 
the luckless wayfarer, cold and chilling; for it must be rc- 
23 



354 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

membered that the traveller, previous to the fall of wind 
and rain, was scorched with the burning heat of the sun — 
and the quick transition from hot to cold is painful. The 
hardy little mules, during the storm, will refuse to progress, 
and, with their faces turned from the pelting blast, will 
shiver like pointer dogs. 

My journey for seven days was uninterrupted, saving by 
occasional rains. It was principally through a flat, hot 
country, until we arrived within about three leagues of 
Tampico, when the land became undulating, as we approach- 
ed the sea-board. The coast was heavily timbered with 
iron wood and fustic. At half past three o'clock, P. M., on 
the 31st of June — a period long to be remembered by me, 
as terminating my journey in Mexico, of about four thou- 
sand miles, I arrived at Tampico. 

I now feel convinced, from all that I have seen of the 
world, that it is only necessary for an American to go 
abroad to satisfy himself that the United States has the only 
free and happy people upon earth, while their country is 
more blessed with richness of soil, the abundance of water, 
and purity of atmosphere, than that of any other clime upon 
the habitable globe — and that all her imperfections are.bless- 
inss, when drawn in bold contrast with the institutions and 
inhabitants of foreign countries. 

I was met at the suburbs of the town by a custom-house 
officer, who is there stationed to receive arrieros and tra- 
vellers, and was escorted into the city of Tampico a Santa 
Anna. Having passed my baggage through the custom- 
house, I then hastened to the* meson kept by Mons. Constant 
Marcuet and his lady, who were German French by birth, 
and at their house I found excellent accommodations. 

At this meson I had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. 
Andrew Fulton, a fellow-countryman of the state of Ohio, 
with whom I had travelled from Cincinnati to New Orleans. 
Mr. F. was an enterprising dealer in stock, and was profit- 
ably engaged in making shipments of horses from Ohio and 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 355 

Kentucky, to different ports of Mexico. His adventure this 
time was to Tampico. It was not only pleasing to mee* 
with a gentleman with whom I had formerly travelled, but 
I was also happy in learning that, like myself, he should 
take the first opportunity of returning to the United States. 

The city of Tampico is delightfully situated upon an ele- 
vated promontory, having the river on one side and a lake 
on the other. It contains about six thousand inhabitants ; 
but is, like Vera Cruz, annually decimated by the mala- 
ria vomito. In 1843, it is said, two thousand of the popu- 
lation were destroyed by the yellow fever. Many of the 
houses are built after the style of those in the United States, 
with sharp shingled roofs; I saw also one weather-boarded 
building. 

The inhabitants of Tampico, on my arrival, were much 
excited by the reception of the intelligence of the execution 
(and the frying in oil of the head) of General Sentmanat at 
Tabasco. Such a deed, approved of both by the expressed 
language of the public prints, as well as by the sentiments 
of the citizens of Mexico in general, the civilized world can 
easily judge what the people of that country are. Coeval 
with the reception of this news, the arrival of some twenty 
or thirty free exiled negroes from Havana, elicited much 
attention. 

There are four large plazas in Tampico. The one on the 
river, fronting the custom-house, is the principal of these. 
In the centre of it a costly monument is being erected to 
commemorate the much-boasted Mexican chief Santa Anna, 
having achieved a victory over the Spaniards in the last 
sad effort which the king of Spain made to overpower and 
subdue his former colony. 

As the encampments and the relative condition of the two 
belligerent powers were shown and described to me, by an 
individual who witnessed the rencounter, I could not see 
that the fate of war was decided in favour of the Mexican 
chief by any bravery or wisdom he might have exercised ; 



35g TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

but more to the influence of the vomito, in the ranks of his 
enemies. Spanish gold did not fail to have its influence 
with the patriot and defender of the banner of Hberty — for 
the Spanish General secured his retreat by bribery, when 
he was otherwise entirely helpless and hopeless. 

Captain Franklin Chase, a native of the city of Baltimore, 
is the U. S. Consul at the port of Tampico a Santa Anna* 
His able oflicial returns, as published by order of the go- 
vernment, are sufficient evidence of his abihty as an officer, 
and a recommendation of himself as an American. I found 
him to be a perfect gentleman, and a true son of republican- 
ism after the school of his own country. Captain C. could 
not inform m^e who were the candidates of the approaching 
presidential canvass in the Union ; but he gave me all the 
particulars of the exciting Texas question up to that time. 
He invited me to dine with him upon the fourth day of July. 
I could not help pledging the Consul in a glass of wine, 
hoping that the American congress, being in session, would,' 
upon that great day, annex our sister republic to the United 
States. 

The annexation of Texas has ever appeared to my mind 
to be necessary to the general prosperity of the Union, 
the location covering a large portion of our defenceless ter- 
ritory ; while at the same time, if the United States designs 
to cherish her manufacturing interests, which consist princi- 
pally of cotton fabrics, it does seem to me to be all-import- 
ant that our government should extend its dominion over 
the territory of Texas. It is conceded, I believe, both in 
Europe and America, that the cotton grown in Texas is of 
a superior quality to that now cultivated in the southern 
states, saving the very small and inadequate amount of the 
Sea Island cotton of South Carchna; and therefore, if Texas 
should not be able to maintain her independence, and be 
conquered, or annexed to any other foreign power, particu- 
larly any of the manufacturing nations, such as England or 
France, the manufacturers of the United States would be 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. ^57 

powerless, for they would not be able to turn a wheel in 
competition with them, by having to pay a duty upon the 
raw material. 

Again, the annexation of Texas is of valuable considera- 
tion, believing that the public mind will be much relieved 
upon the agitating question of slavery and abolition — for the 
increased demand of slave labour in Texas will so com- 
pletely exercise a salutary effect, as to draw a considerable 
portion of the coloured population, from the northern slave 
states, that it must result in the addition of seven new free 
states to the glorious confederacy of the Union, — compre- 
hending that vast section of country from New Jersey to 
North Carolina and Tennessee. 

Likewise, as a gentleman of much foresight remarked to 
m-e, that if Texas should be admitted into the Union, with 
restrictions upon the subject of slavery, the extent of that 
country would be curtailed, for the fact is ostensible, that in 
the existence of Texas as an independent country, the sub- 
ject of slavery could not be controlled within her dominions; 
but if connected with the United States, its latitudes will be 
circumscribed, and an effectual barrier placed against it. 

I am not alone satisfied with the annexation of Texas to 
the United States. It must be ostensible to all who will 
examine the map, that to complete geographical limits of 
the south-western portion of the Union, Upper California 
must also be annexed — first, for the reason that the United 
Slates territory of Oregon covers so small an extent of the 
Pacific coast, that the American commerce will ultimately 
not have sea room, — the only port in which the shipping of 
the United States can anchor upon her own bottom, being 
at the mouth of the Columbia river — and that not a good 
harbour, as the loss of the Peacock, an American ship of 
war, can fully testify. Again, American shipping and com- 
merce would ever be subject to vexatious and interfering 
restrictions, from the fact, that the Columbia river is claimed 
by the English to be the boundary between the Union and 



ggQ. TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

Great Britain, and that power would therefore exercise a 
controlUng influence and dominion over one half of the 
river. 

The territory of Oregon is not so valuable an agricultu- 
ral region as Upper California; and besides, the latter has 
the advantage in climate as well as in a horticultural and 
mineralogical point of view. In Upper California are three 
of the best ports, and the only harbours for shipping, upon 
the entire coast of the Pacific ocean, upon the continent of 
North America. If any one should doubt the practicabihty 
of a rail-road from New Orleans to the Pacific coast, let 
them read Kendall's expedition to Santa F6, or any of the 
accounts of the St. Louis traders to that place, and he could 
not have a moment's hesitation in believing all that may be 
said, regarding its easy success, as also the importance of 
accomplishing such a design. If frail and heavily laden 
wagons can be drawn between the above named places, 
without roads, over the plains and thence to the Pacific, it 
is self-evident that a rail-road could be constructed with- 
out difficulty, or what an engineer would call a single ob- 
struction. By an examination of the map, it will be per- 
ceived that a rail-road, running from San Francisco to New 
Orleans, would only have to cross the head waters of some 
of the streams of Texas, and if any of the shoots of the Mis- 
sissippi river should prove to be a formidable barrier, it can 
easily be discovered that the road could escape all of the 
waters of Texas, and passing over a dry country, could be 
carried direct to Napoleon at the mouth of the Arkansas 
river. This road would never have ice or snow to cover 
its rails, or obstruct its passage, but could perpetually be 
travelled at all seasons. 

This should be a national improvement, for no one or 
more localities could claim exclusive benefits, or receive an 
aggrandisement, apart from the whole Union. And there- 
fore, it does appear to my mind, that it would be advisable 
that the sales of the public lands should be made of each 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 359 

state and territory, and appropriated to this great enter- 
prise, — and thereby prevent a monopoly of the sales of land, 
and the tide of emigration in any exclusive section of coun- 
try. 

While upon the Pacific coast, I inquired of an American 
whom I met there, and who had travelled all over New 
Mexico, if it was his opinion that a rail-road could be built 
from San Francisco to the Mississippi river? He replied 
that " he had no doubt or hesitation in saying that he could 
drive a sulky all the way from San Francisco to New 
Orleans, at the rate of ten miles per hour, without the fear 
of upsetting it."* When a road has been constructed from 
New Orleans to the Pacific, the Mississippi and the Ohio 
rivers would then have the monopoly of the commerce of the 
Pacific ocean ! which would also control that of the world ! 
There would then be not one of the states of the Union but 
could have a direct trade with the East Indies, China, and 
the Islands of the Pacific. The south-west, by the Gulf of 
Mexico ; North and South Carolina, by the Charleston 
and Knoxville rail-road ; Virginia, by her rail-road from 
Point Pleasant to Lynchburg and canal to Richmond ; 
Maryland, by the Ohio and Baltimore rail-road, and Ohio 
and Potomac canal; and the whole northern states, from 
Pittsburg, and the way of the Lakes. 

In the place of its requiring a tedious and a dangerous 
voyage from any part of the United States, to and from 
Canton, of twelve months, passengers or freight could de- 
part from Boston, Mass., and in sixty days' time be landed 
in any port of China. It will therefore appear obvious to 
every American, that it is first important to obtain a good 
and suitable port upon the Pacific ocean for a depot, and I 



• My thoughts upon a Pacific rail-road had all been written out while in 
Mexico, and consequently long previous to the petition presented to Congress 
upon that subject, by Mr. 'V\''hitncy, of New York. 



300 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

know of none better or so direct as that of San Francisco 
in Upper California. 

Some hesitating, or fastidious reader, while debating in 
his mind the feasibility of such an undertaking, would, per- 
haps, exclaim to himself, " Where is ambition or annexation 
to terminate — must all Mexico come in too 1" I would re- 
ply, No : for all south of the Rio del Norte and the Califor- 
nias, the country is too dry, and divested of agricultural 
advantages to be desirable to the North American or the 
European. It is necessary, for those races to live happily, 
that the land should be cultivated; and that there should be 
water-power and fuel for the uses of machinery, and these 
are not to be found in Mexico, south of the boundaries 
above spoken of The remainder of the country is but a 
barren leg — not Santa Anna's leg — of the North American 
continent, unprofitable for any thing else, but its mines of 
precious metals ; and, as the Mexicans are very good mi- 
ners, and fond of the occupation, I am unwilling, for one, 
that any other people should be corrupted by its intoxicat- 
ing pursuits. 

Again, the Mexicans are a different race of beings from 
those of the United States — being only Spanish and Indian, 
and speaking the Spanish language, and wedded to an esta- 
blished religion. While, on the contrary, the inhabitants of ^ 
our Union are composed of every people and kindred of 
the whole earth, each one sitting under his own vine and 
fig-tree, and enjoying the liberty of his own conscience. 
They would, therefore, tolerate none of their territories in 
an established rehgion of worship, by law, in any portion 
of their wide-spread and happy dominions. If the Mexi- 
cans could become Americanised, and would pay their na- 
tional debt, I, again, for one, should have no objection to 
them. 

Notwithstanding I have had the presumption to affix a 
southern boundary to the United States, yet I am far from 
saying that it should have a limit to the north ; for I verita- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3g| 

bly believe that the finger of God, as it has been seen in all 
other history, is in it. So sanguine is my faith in the arri- 
val of the period, when the American flag shall mantle the 
whole of North America — not only the Canadas, but the 
whole of the British possessions on the continent must be- 
come annexed to the United States. If an individual will 
only cast his eyes upon the map, he will at once behold, 
that by a railroad, connecting the head-waters of steam-boat 
navigation of the Mississippi river with the Hudson's Bay, 
the North Sea will have an internal connection and com- 
merce' with the grand whole ! And thus it can be perceived, 
that while the United States would extend from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific, the star spangled banner, instead of hovering 
over a few states, would triumphantly wave from ocean to 
ocean, and from sea to sea ! — May God speed the magnifi- 
cent consummation! — for the United States would then 
have home protection, and home market, without the enact- 
ing of a single law ; and free trade, by a liberal high-mind- 
edness, should hail " peace on earth and good-will to man ;" 
while a prosperous and happy world, enlightened by true 
religion and constitutional liberty, will sing hosannas to the 
great I Ain. And the sons of Columbia will have been the 
instruments of these great works, and the benefactors of 
the whole human family. 

Some one may inquire, — What would become of the 
Russian possessions? I think T may safely answer, — that 
while the United States will have to purchase the territories 
above spoken of, by the generosity and friendship which 
the Autocrat of all the Russias has evinced towards the 
Union, that it may be reasonably calculated on, that the 
Emperor would make a donation of that useless and frozen 
slip of his American dominions to the Union. Or else, we 
could easily do without it, and remain in peaceful satisfac- 
tion with an agreeable neighbour. 

Nothing can be so complete in this world but what cri- 
tics can discover some imperfections. It is said by philo- 



362 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



sophers, that the earth and the sea are diseased, and when 
the angel of destruction shall descend to the harvest of 
death, neither priests nor physicians can heal — the destined 
individual must journey to the tomb. — Every rose must 
have its thorn, and every sweet its bitter. And, notwith- 
standing fair fancy can picture to the beholder the unparal- 
leled prosperity of the United States, and the before unseen 
Temple of Liberty ; yet, there is a canlier within, and the 
meddlesome Puritan, who is, by his generous efforts, at- 
tempting to leaven the whole lump, will, I am afraid, often 
make the cake all dough. Thus I have spoken— as the In- 
dian chief said when he handed the calumet to his neigh- 
bour, And, as the old woman said, when she had no meal 
to bake a cake — I shall hope for the best, and trust to God; 
for he can work when the wisdom and cunning of man shall 
fail. 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 353 



CHAPTER XXI. 

A parting word to the An-ieros. Captain of Banditti. The American flag at theraast-head 
of a schooner. Drive a bargain with the captain. Meeting at the consul's. Contract 
concluded. Returning home in an American vessel. British steamer. Set sail. Mouth 
of the river. Custom-house officer. The vessel searched. Officers take leave. Pilot 
takes us in tow. Narrowly escaped foundering. Captain no gentleman. Injuries .sus- 
tained by my fellow-countrymen. Unhappy feelings. Resolve. Same way of defending 
myself at sea as on land. The captain alarmed. Mr. Fulton's enjoyment. Dazzling 
luminai-y of the light-house. Watched all night. Anchored off the Balize. Embarka- 
tion in a small boat. Perilous voyage. The steamers that are met at the Balize. Put 
to sea. Rudder lost. The southerner. Consternation. N. E. Pass. Steamer 
Phcenix. 

In the opening of this my last chapter, I will take the oc- 
casion of a parting word as to the arrieros who delivered 
me at Tampico. I was so much pleased with the manner 
in which the Mexicans had performed their duty, that I 
mentioned my satisfaction to some gentlemen of Tampico. 
On informing them of the name of the Mexican of Mate- 
haula, who had done me the kindness to employ the arrie- 
ros for me, they expressed themselves much surprised ; and 
affirmed, that my Matehaula friend was the most renowned 
captain of ladrones infesting that portion of Mexico. I de- 
fended the fame of my friendly Mexican, by expressing the 
native doctrine, that he was rich, and beyond the necessity 
of dishonesty. They replied, that his wealth had been ob- 
tained by robbery, and that I must attribute my safe deli- 
verance — not to the good company that I was in — but to 
some freak of fancy in the captain, who had put me under 
the escort of his well-known and chosen men. 

The kindness of the Mexican towards me, I can only ac- 
count for by my being in company with my nephews, to 
whom he paid much attention. 

On my arrival at Tampico a Santa Anna, it was with 
great joy that I beheld the American flag at the mast-head 



3g4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

of a schooner of an hundred and five tons burthen, which 
was taking in freight for the United States. She was the 
same vessel that Mr. Pulton had chartered from New Or- 
leans to that port, and my friend proposed that we should 
return in her. I had no objections to the proposition, pro- 
vided that the vessel would take me to the port of New Or- 
leans, which was also the wish of Mr. Fulton. 

Understanding that the cargo would be taken in, and the 
schooner made ready for sailing by the twenty-second of 
July, my friend and self went on board to drive a bar- 
gain with the captain ; which only resulted in his proposing 
that, on the following morning he would meet us at the of- 
fice of the United States' consul, and that he would there 
abide by whatever Captairi Chase would say, as to the price 
of our passage to the Balize. 

At the appointed time, all parties having met at the con- 
sul's house, it was agreed that Mr. F. and myself should 
pay two hundred dollars for our passage to the mouth of 
the Mississippi river. Captain C. would have nothing to 
do with the transaction, as the schooner had been consigned 
to him. But, in the presence of us all, he inquired of the 
captain of the vessel if he was aware that his schooner be- 
ing freighted for New York, he would become responsible 
to the underwriters should he cast anchor in any other port. 
The captain promptly responded, that he was not unacquaint- 
ed with his liabilities, and, as his ship was good, he had no 
fears of his cargo being damaged ; and he could not resist 
the opportunity of making two hundred dollars, which 
would not cost him the loss of half a day's time. Thus 
our contract was closed, in the presence of the American 
consul. 

I have been particular in detailing the above contract in 
consequence of the after incidents of the homeward A^oy- 
age. I felt delighted that I had an opportunity of returning 
in an American vessel — and, notwithstanding that it was 
small, I was entirely reconciled to undergo all of the incon- 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3gg 

veniences that such a craft is subject to. I thought of the 
many hazards through which I had recently passed, in my 
peregrinations by land, and I felt much gratified that I should 
be under the protection of the American flag, and have a 
fellows-countryman for my commander, in my journey at 
sea. 

It was true that, by the delay of a few days more, I should 
have the chance of a passage in a British steamer by the way 
of Havana — yet, the more accommodating mode of travel I 
was unwilling to wait for, as the Mexican vomito had com- 
menced its ravages at Tampico, and was already sweeping 
off its inhabitants, by giving them but a few hours' notice. 
Mr. Ful|on and myself therefore resolved that, at any cost, 
and at the first opportunity, we would take our departure 
from the sickly and devoted port of Tampico d Santa Anna. 

Early on the morning of the 22d instant, our anchor be- 
ing weighed, and our sails set, we sailed down the river 
seven miles before we came to the gulf. At the mouth of 
the river we were hailed by the custom-house officers and 
boarded by them. The commander of themi was the same 
individual who had escorted me into the city, upon my ar- 
■ rival at Tampico. He inquired if there was not an Ameri- 
can passenger, who had two small boys under his charge ? 
I presented myself before him, and he seemed much pleased 
to meet with me. After some compliments, and a hearty 
laugh respecting my long beard and travelling apparel, in 
which he had first beheld me, he and his companions bade 
me an affectionate farewell, and a happy voyage, without 
having searched our vessel, as was their duty to do every 
vessel previous to their leaving for sea. 

The captain of the schooner had expressed some appre- 
hensions of an examination of his vessel, and, after the de- 
parture of the polite officers, I informed him that he owed 
all of his thanks for his escape to my little nephews. 

The pilots next took us in tow, thirty of whom were seat- 
ed in a boat behind their oars, to row us across the sand 



366 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 



bar at the mouth of the river. Their captain said that the 
tide was at ebb, and that it was dangerous crossing. How- 
ever the word was given, and up went the anchor and sails, 
and we were off to sea, not though without having had a 
narrow escape from foundering. 

As the vessel got over the bar, a sea came and rolled her 
on her beam, the keel striking heavily against the bottom as 
she surged, which motion brought every soul on board to 
his knees, or prostrate on the deck. The captain shouted 
out, in a voice of despair, that we were lost ; but the good 
schooner in her next plunge passed the bar, and did not 
again strike. 

The bar crossed, the captain of the pilots informed us 
that it was customary for captains of vessels to treat the 
pilots to whiskey or money, after performing their hard task. 
Our captain said that he had neither money nor spirits, but 
that there were two passengers on board who had some 
wine, and perhaps they would treat the pilots. I unhesita- 
tingly replied to the unthinking and penurious commander, 
that he was certainly unreasonable to suppose that I would 
deprive myself and my little family of a few bottles of wine 
which I had procured for a sea-voyage. The request, or 
hint of the Captain was an ill omen to me of the hands I 
had fallen into, and the pilots departed without their accus- 
tomed beverage or pay. 

The disappointment of my not finding the captain of our 
vessel a gentleman, was exceedingly mortifying to me, for 
the otherwise disagreeableness of my situation was to be 
enhanced by my being under the command of a man I could 
not respect, and one whom I had reason to expect would 
act dishonourably towards me, from the description which 
Mr. Fulton had given me of his performances. 

While in Mexico, I anticipated to meet with none but 
such characters; and indeed I can say that the most serious 
losses and sufferings which I sustained in that country, were 
at the hands of my fellow-countrymen, resulting from my 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 357 

over-confidence in them — and that he in particular by whom 
I suffered most, was a Virginian, who first took the oppor- 
tunity of deceiving my deceased brother, and then myself. 
Nothing but the respect that I entertain Tor their honourable . 
parentage and relatives, prevents me from publishing their 
names to the world. However my fellow-citizens at home 
may content themselves with the statement of the fact that, 
in Mexico, there are but few Americans, comparatively 
speaking, who have not had the best of reasons for flying 
their country. It is yet to be hoped that they may become 
virtuous men, and good citizens of their adopted land. 

I repeat that, in my departure from a country where I 
had suffered so much fatigue and excitement, from the con- 
tinued hazard of my condition, it was with unhappy feel- 
ings that I had to be confined to the society of the captain 
of the schooner, without the prospect of enjoying any plea- 
sure. Emaciated by sea- sickness, I resolved to while away 
my time in the cabin by reposing, and leave him as iriuch 
as possible to himself. 

While thus indulging, on the second day of our voyage 
from Tampico, Mr. Fulton came into the cabin, and inform- 
ed me that the captain had said that he would not put us 
out at the Balize, but would steer for New York. My friend 
had not more than mentioned the fact, before the faithless 
man came in himself, and abruptly remarked that he did not 
intend to be plagued with us, but that he would sail direct 
for New York. I had not expected him to prove so base, 
and although taken by surprise, I had the same way of de- 
fending myself at sea as I had on land. I hastily unlocked 
my trunk, and took from it a revolver. I then informed my 
brave captain that he was not to take me to New York, but 
that he was to make good his contract with me, or else he 
or I should have to die. 

I furthermore explained to him that, as additional reasons 
for holding him to a strict compliance with his agreement, 
his vessel was leaking five hundred strokes per hour, in con- 



3g8 TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 

sequenrte of the fresh water worm having perforated the 
hull, while at anchor at Tampico ; as also, that one half of 
his crew were sick. I reminded him, likewise, of my ha;^ 
ing property at New Orleans, and that to that port only I 
was determined to go, and that I should disembark at the 
Balize. 

My friend resolutely seconded me in all I said, and the 
captain very quietly for the next two days kept his bed, say- 
ing that he was sick — but Mr. Fulton amused himself by 
exciting his fears, and listening to his appeals to preserev 
his life. The captain was not aware that, at that particular 
period, it was dangerous for any man to attempt to wrong 
me, for my feelings had for the last nine months always 
been up to the combating point, and to meet with a disap- 
pointment and vexation from him was not very agreeable 
to my unpleasant condition. 

On the evening of the eighth day of our voyage, while 
my friend and self were seated upon the deck of the schoo- 
ner, about the hour of early candle-light, we discovered the 
red luminary of the light-house of the south-east pass. So 
rejoiced were we, that we at once determined to set up all 
night, to watch that the steersman would not sail the light 
down. We were induced to do so for the reason that, on 
the night previous, a sailor had proclaimed that he saw a 
light-house, when the captain peremptorily denied the asser- 
tion, and steered from the object. Mr. Fulton had often 
been in and out of the Balize, and was impressed with the 
opinion that the vessel's course had been set for New York, 
from the position of the light when seen. This explains the 
fact that vessels bound for New York, or any other north- 
ern port, from Tampico, first steer for the Balize, and thence 
to their destined port. However, we determined that we 
should not let go our hold upon the light-house of the S. E. 
pass, and I did not suffer sleep on that night to close my 
eyelids. 

On the following morning, as soon as an anchorage was 



TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 3g9 

obtained, we let go our anchor, and six of us in all, with the 
baggage of myself and friend, was put into the long-boat, 
and I bade the schooner adieu, for a steamboat was in sight 
up the river of the South East pass. The mate, who accom- 
panied us, said that our voyage in the boat was three miles 
by sea, and about as far over the surges of the river to the 
steamer Southerner. The toil of the sailors was incessant; 
they were much exhausted when they reached their destina- 
tion, prostrating themselves on the deck of the steamer. 
My friend and self did not follow the example of our cap- 
tain towards the pilots, but rewarded the poor men for their 
trouble and sufferings. 

So perilous was the voyage we had made from the schoo- 
ner to the steamer, that it was imagined by all who saw 
us that we had deserted the vessel, on account of her being 
in distress, probably foundering— first, because the sea was 
rolling — and next, in consequence of the great danger of a 
small boat attempting to stem the Mississippi river. But we 
were thus hastened off by the captain of the schooner, he 
refusing our request to wait until boarded by a pilot. He, 
no doubt, would have been rejoiced to have seen us go to 
the bottom, but happily we M-ere safely delivered. 

The steamers that are met with at the passes, are tow- 
boats, employed by the shipping to carry them to and from 
New Orleans. The Southerner having parted with the ship 
she had towed to the mouth, on the next day went to sea 
in search of other vessels. The wind was light, it was 
slightly raining; and as the land was hardly visible, I 
was engaged in conversation with a very interesting young 
lady, when the captain's wife, in much consternation, ran 
into the cabin, and exclaimed that we were lost! The crew 
were all in confusion, for the boat was unmanageable, ra- 
pidly sheering round in a circle. 

It was soon discovered that the rudder was lost, and a 
temporary fixture having been made by the carpenter, we 
made for the mouth of the North East pass, and anchored at 
24 



gpyQ TJIAVELS IN MEXICO. 

a wood-yard. The captain of the Southerner informed us that 
it would require one week's time to repair the damage, and 
said that if we were in haste, it would be advisable for us 
to make for a ship about three miles up the river, which 
would be taken in tow that evening. 

Thus again we had to take a small boat, which dehvered 
us on board the ship in time for the steamer. No other un- 
happy occurrences or misfortune happened to me during the 
remainder of my journey — and upon the 2d day of August 
I landed at New Orleans, on, if my memory serves me 
right, the tow-boat Phcenix. 



m 




•\ 



i '19 ' '■^' 



APPE NDIX 



OREGON. 



View cf Ovegon. Description of Upper and Lower California, with a map of those countries. 
Biographies of the Emperor Don Augustin Iturbide, and the Ex-Dictator Antonio Lope* 
De Santa Anna, comprising rapid outlines of the political history of Mexico and the 
Texan Revolution. 



There have been epochs in the history of the world when 
the eyes of all nations were directed to the advance of 
power and ambition on the one part, and the overthrow and 
subjugation of empires on the other. Such were the con- 
quests of Sesostris, — a world won by an Alexander, — the 
chivalry of the Crusaders, — the freak of fortune of Charles 
the V. — the triumphs of Napoleon,— and the wide-spread 
military dominion of the Isles of Britain. 

Such revolutions in the Christian, social, and political 
amelioration of the condition of mankind, can, without the 
possibility of a doubt, be divined to have been the finger of 
God, conducting the fallen race of man through his own ig- 
noble gore, from a groveling and benighted condition to the 
more glorious image of his Maker. 

It cannot be denied that the discovery of America by 
Columbus was an epoch, and it is equally true that the crisis 
of the revolution of British America was the commence- 
ment of an " age of reason,^^ in the history of nations, that 
must enlarge and spread its benign influence until it mantles 
the whole earth, proclaiming freedom and liberty of con- 
science to the oppressed and enthralled of mankind ; and he 
is wanting in discernment, who does not perceive that Eng- 
land has been made the great pioneer to prepare the way in 
new and barbarous regions, for the introduction of that last 



372 



APPENDIX. 



and greatest era — the conquest of tyrants and bigots, by the 
magic and redeeming influence of reason and principle ! 
But for a want of faith by the chief priests, scribes, and 
pharisees, Christ was crucified, and Jerusalem devastated 
by the Romans. England then should take warning ; for 
by a stubborn opposition to the divine advent of this last 
and greatest ray of light, the republic of America, by the 
all-powerful principles of the sacred Bill of Rights of '76, 
will dismember her colossal empire, and not leave one stone 
upon another at the footstool of her oppression. 

The march of mind is onward, and gi^eat principle, the 
pillar of cloud by day, and of fire by night, will triumph in 
its career. The arm of Jehovah, covered by the thick 
bosses of his buckler, will give liberty to the captive and 
freedom to the oppressed of every clime. Whilst the tot- 
tering thrones of kings, guarded with bayonets, attempt to 
shield their power by deceitful and corrupt diplomacy, prin- 
ciple will prove them, and cause them to bow their headsvat 
the altar of liberty. And should the Republic of the United 
States be threatened with enemies and alliances against her 
peace and happiness; her trust, as well as her alliance, will 
be with the God of battles, who will lead her on to glorious 
victory ; extending the " area of freedom," mantling her 
conquest with the stars and stripes, and annexing her peace- 
ful acquisitions after the policy of her constitution. 

By the extension of such views, it is not then strange that 
the attention of all Christendom should be directed to that 
vast extent of country, lying west of the United States, em- 
bracing a coast of great length along the Pacific ; a coun- 
try which, from the extent of its rivers, the number of, and 
valuable minerals of its mountains, as well as for the rich- 
ness and variety of the products of its soil, should claim the 
protection of laws and civilization. 

The country of western America, as a portion of God's 
heritage to man, has, until dates of recent period, been 'in- 
habited only by the savage, and roamed over by the brute 



APPENDIX. 317.3 

creation — never having known civilized human beings, ex- 
cept in the occasional visits of the adventurous hunter, or 
the searching explorer, who have never attempted to reduce 
the face of nature to that dominion designed by the all- 
bountiful Creator when he proclaimed, that by the sweat of 
man's brow the earth should be tilled. 

The Pacific coast of North America, which more imme- 
diately interests the American pubKc, as the first and great- 
est proprietors of its terra jirma, is at present comprehended 
in what is known as Oregon territory. The country lying 
to the north of fifty- four degrees and, forty minutes, is de- 
nominated the British possessions ; that to the south as far 
as latitude forty-two, is known as Oregon, and south of the 
latter parallel, California stretches far into the torrid zone, — 
its southern extremity. Cape San Lucas lying in the twenty- 
third degree of north latitude. 

The extent of coast of the above three great divisions of 
country, is about three thousand miles, breasting an interior 
territory of every variety of climate, soil, and productions. 
The British possessions occupy the frigid zone, Oregon 
and Upper California the temperate, and the southern ex- 
extreme of Lower California the torrid zone. 

The Oregon country is supposed to extend from Cape 
Mendocino on the south, to Cape Flattery on the north, lying 
south-west of the Island of Quadra and Vancouver — the 
whole coast presenting a line nearly due north. The coun- 
try of Oregon is calculated to contain about four hundred 
thousand square miles, and capable of supporting two hun- 
dred millions of inhabitants. 

The Columbia river, the largest of all the streams of Ore- 
gon, is formed by the junction, at the distance of two hun- 
dred and fifty miles from its mouth, of the Lewis and Clark 
rivers ; the latter rises at the north, and the former has its 
origin at the south. 

The Columbia river is said to receive nearly all the wa- 
ters which rise in the Rocky Mountains, and flow west • 



3174 APPENDIX. 

through this territory. The river enters the Pacific by two 
mouths. The promontory at the north is called Cape Dis- 
appointment ; that to the south, Cape Adams. The Colum- 
bia does not, at all times, afford a safe harbour, and is a, 
stream of diihcult, and often hazardous navigation, in con- 
sequence of the number of shoals and rocks in its bed. 
North of the Columbia, in the Straits of Puga, there are 
several good harbours for small vessels, whilst further south, 
iat all times, navigation is rendered dangerous by the pre- 
vailing south-west winds, which drive the surges of the sea 
over high rocks and shallow bars. 

In the fifty-third degree of north latitude, rises the head- 
waters of one of the tributaries of the Columbia, the Canoe 
river ; and what is remarkable, as one of the wonders of 
nature, connected with this stream, is, that only a few feet 
from the lake of the Canoe river, is another similar lake, 
from whence flow the waters of the Athabasca, which en- 
ters into, and connects with the waters of the Arctic Sea, 
Hudson's Bay, and the Canadian lakes ; thus most wonder- 
fully exhibiting, in a deep cleft of the great dividing ridge, 
separating the east from the west, between the two volca- 
nic peaks of Mount Brown, one thousand six hundred feet of 
high, and Mount Hooker, of one thousand five hundred feet 
terrific sublimity above the sea — standing in majestic gran- 
deur, like two great towers protecting the pass — the "Punch 
Bowl," from whence flows the pure, fresh, liquid element of 
the mountain, to mingle in the salt floods of two opposite 
oceans, forming, at once, a connecting link between the old 
and new world. Through this wonderful pass, the English 
carry on their trade from the Pacific coast, almost entirely 
by water, to Montreal in Canada, and to Fort Factory, on 
Hudson's Bay. 

With the foregoing succinct views of the extent of the ter- 
ritory of Oregon, and its facilities for navigation, and exten- 
sive inland commerce, it was frequently impressed upon my 
mind, while on the Pacific coast, that it was strange my fel- 



APPENDIX. 375 

low-citizens of the United States did not awake to their true 
interests, and wrest from foreign possession their, justly ac- 
quired territories, so improperly detained from them, in con- 
travention of treaty guarantees, and the rights of occupancy. 
Although the harbours north of the Columbia river are not 
the best or largest on the coast, yet, from the easy navigation 
of the rivers and lakes which empty into the Pacific, upon 
the one hand, and flow into the Atlantic, upon the other, — 
making an almost entire and unobstructed navigation from 
ocean to ocean — it is highly probable that this route may be 
made to command the best part of the commerce with Chi- 
na and the East Indies ; and, unless our government recover 
and maintain its rights in the country of Oregon, we may 
be prepared to relinquish our expectations of establishing a 
profitable over-land trade with the Pacific. The tardy policy 
of the government would render the acquisition of the bay 
and port of San Francisco of little use to the nation, in com- 
petition with British capital and enterprise on this natural 
route. And unless a decided and energetic policy be adopted, 
in reference to the great object of trans-continental com- 
merce with the Pacific — a policy overcoming all obstacles 
in the attainment of an object of such transcendent national 
importance — we may be prepared to surrender California 
likewise, and, with it, those vast commercial enterprises, to 
the cupidity of our British friends, and their determination 
to circumscribe our power and advancement. 

When we remember that the discovery of this continent, 
by Columbus, was the result of an attempt to find a passage 
to the East Indies, for commercial benefits, and notwith- 
standing a vast continent blocked up the high-way to the 
rich stores of those regions, eager enterprise was ever vi- 
gilant in searching for some strait or narrow sea, by which 
the goal could be gained, and the wealth of the flir-east 
flooded into the coffers of the avaricious west. Not 
a bay was seen, nor a river discovered, but what the 
watchful navigator, ever possessed of the single object of a 



376 



APPENDIX. 



western-passage to the east — would, amidst the shouts of 
his mariners, embrace the delusion, that this or that, was the 
desired, long- sought for passage. 

In 1542 the Spaniards, having possession of the Philippine 
Islands, it gave to the merchants of that people the mono, 
poly of the trade with China. But, in 1616, the promontory 
of Cape Horn was discovered and sailed round, which had 
the effect to draw from the Atlantic coast of the Spanish 
Main, hordes of English and French bucaniers, who had 
been, by actual license, or silent consent of their several 
governments, encouraged to depredate upon Spanish com- » 
merce, and plunder their towns. 

The powers of Europe, unable at all times to compete 
with Spain in open warfare, upon the ocean, stealthily en- 
gaged in freebooting and piracy upon their merchant-ships, 
entertaining the hope that thereby Spain might be ultimate- 
ly weakened in marine power and wealth, and her com- 
merce gradually destroyed. It has been said that "the 
efforts of the English and their government, to establish 
commerce with the Spanish dominions in America, have, 
in fact, been the principal causes or motives of all the wars 
between those nations since the sixteenth century." 

The effect produced by the discovery of Cape Horn, re- 
sulted also in the sailing directly across the Pacific to Asia 
and the Indies; and thus, while the commerce. of the Spa- 
niards was perpetually harassed on the high-seas by English 
and French pirates, the ports of the eastern world were 
thrown open to the universal trade of all commercial na- 
tions. 

Coeval with the advance of commerce, the settlement of 
colonies on the eastern coast of North America, by differ- 
ent European nations, was in regular progression. England 
had acquired possession of the present Atlantic coast of the 
United States, and, with the immense advantage, already 
secured to her commercial interests, has never abandoned 
the idea of discovering a near passage to the Pacific, by 



APPENDIX. 377 

way of the north-west, having repeatedly fitted out explor- 
ing expeditions to navigate the Arctic sea. In the spirit of 
gain, which she evinces in the acquisition of new territories 
in disregard of the rights of others, and with the most flim- 
sy pretexts, it would seem that her ambition can never be 
satiated till she has spread her arms over all the shores. 

It is not intended here to discuss the validity of our title 
to Oregon. On that subject there is but one opinion with in- 
telligent and patriotic citizens of this country, and that is, that 
our title is clear, just and indefeasible, and that the pretensions 
set up by our adversaries, are unreasonable, and untenable 
in their character. To procrastinate the settlement of the 
Oregon dispute, the British government has resorted to 
every subterfuge within the range of pettifogging diplomacy 
— her only object being to achieve by artifice, negotiation, 
or chance, some advantage, whereby she may acquire a 
sufiicient footing on the Pacific coast, to thwart the true 
policy of our government, and promote the interests of her 
own, at the expense of her neighbours. If a chain of com- 
munication can be made through the St. Lawrence and the 
lakes, and by land or water across the continent, it is as 
practicable to British capital as to American, to secure the 
over-land commerce of the Western Ocean. The day is 
not distant, when British ships will take in cargo at Liver- 
pool, in England, and discharge, without transhipment, in 
the harbours of Lake Superior, and her magnificent trans- 
atlantic steamers, after ploughing through three thousand 
miles of ocean, will be seen steaming their way through our 
noble rivers and inland seas, as many thousand miles into 
the interior of the continent, distributing the wealth, enter- 
prise and population of England through the very heart of 
the wildernoss. The great ship-canal, overcoming the ra- 
pids of the St. Lawrence, now nearly completed, and the 
enlargement of the Wclland canal, around the falls of Ni- 
agara, will enable ships of six hundred tons burthen to ac- 
complish this voyage. This chain of improvements are 



378 A P P E N D I X. 

among the most stupendous works ever projected, and their 
future object will be more fully developed in the coming com- 
mercial contests between the merchants and governments 
of the two countries. 

An important crisis is evidently approaching, in the his- 
tury of our transatlantic rival ; a great contest is going on 
vigorously, for manufacturing and commercial supremacy. 
To these sources of enterprise she is mainly indebted for 
her hitherto pre-eminent prosperity, and the present prop of 
her power ; she fears no other competitor but America, and 
with these convictions in rapid progress of fulfilment, it is 
not strange that a great struggle should be maintained, with 
every resource at her command, to circumscribe our com- 
mercial activity, and secure to herself the monopoly of eve- 
ry new and profitable avenue of enterprise. But our gov- 
ernment and people seem to appreciate her designs ; and, 
however tardy we may be in opposing obstacles to their ac- 
complishment, or in asserting and maintaining our rights, 
the presiding divinity of our repubhc seems to have decreed 
thalfevery thing calculated to advance the progress of her 
favoured people shall triumph over all opposition. 

The prompt and decided action of the present adminis- 
tration at Washington, so confidently looked for, after the 
pledges of Mr. Polk, will secure the speedy and peaceable 
settlement of the Oregon question. Great Britain will not 
go to war ; her cabinet well know that in the existence of 
peace between their government and the United States, de- 
pends the peace of Europe and the world. Let the contest 
but commence, and whatever victories may be achieved, or 
societies devastated on either side, the annexation of all 
British America to the United States, will be the inevitable 
consequence, and new and independent powers will be erect 
ed in the British Indies and the islands of the sea, while 
the political influence of the contest, operating upon the 
minds of the degraded and starving millions at home, can- 
not fail to shake the foundations of the throne itself, if not 



APPENDIX. 3179 

to overturn the time-worn fabrics of European monarchy 
and despotism, giving place to the irresistible genius of de- 
mocratic constitutions. France is far better prepared for 
republican government to-day, than in the days of Voltaire 
and Napoleon ; and the factious demagogue, O'Connell, with 
his misled but oppressed followers, will embrace the earliest 
opportunity to put the ball of revolution in motion. 



CALIFORNIA. 

This country has, within the last few years, excited an 
increased degree of interest throughout the commercial 
world, but more especially with the citizens of the United 
States. The American people have been led to give a 
greater degree of attention to California recently, in conse- 
quence of the removal there of a large number of Ameri- 
can immigrants, originally settlers in Oregon, who left the 
latter region in consequence of the superiority of the soil 
and climate of the former. The avowals of the British gov- 
ernment too, with reference to Oregon — their recent attempt 
to purchase California clandestinely, from Santa Anna — and 
the evidently determined policy of the Crown of Great 
Britain to monopolize the prospective commercial inter- 
course with the Pacific, by limiting our possessions upon 
that coast to a small extent of sea-board, of little value to 
the American immigrant, as an agricultural country, and 
destitute of valuable harbours to shelter our commerce, or 
to serve as adequate depots for an extensive overland 
trade with the Pacific. 

These designs of the British ministry, and their imperious 
language to the United States, have rendered our people and 
government more alive to their interests, while British poli- 



380 



APPENDIX. 



cy on this continent, and foreign interference from whatev- 
er source, is daily becoming more obnoxious. The " non- 
interference doctrines" of Mr. Munroe, put forth during his 
administration, have been revived in the action of the gov- 
ernment upon the Texas question, and met with a hearty re- 
sponse from the entire American pubhc. 

After Hernando Cortes had subdued Mexico, and esta- 
blished himself in the ancient city of the Montezeumas, he 
extended his conquests far to the west, and having made his 
way to the Pacific, built a fleet with which to explore for 
new discoveries. The fleet was put under the command of 
Diego Hurtado de Mendoza, who sailed along the coast 
north-west, as far as San Jose, in latitude twenty-seven. 

But this expedition having proved disastrous, Cortes him- 
self took command of a squadron, and sailed to the north- 
west in search of new countries, and on the 3d of May, 
1535, anchored his vessels in a bay upon which he bestowed 
the name of Santa Cruz. This bay is situated upon the 
south-east coast of what is now known as Lower Califor- 
nia. And thus it is, CaUfornia had for its discoverer one of 
the most renowned of the early adventurers in the new 
world ; and now, at a period of more than three hundred 
years from its discovery, is but just beginning to excite in- 
terest among civilized men. 

The country of California lies between the 22d and 42d 
parallels of north latitude, and is divided in two parts. The 
northern portion is called New, or Upper California, and 
the Southern, Old, or Lower California, the dividing line 
being about latitude thirty-two. 



APPENDIX. 



381 



LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

The peninsula of Lower California, it will be perceived, 
on reference to the map, is a narrow strip of land, extend- 
ing far to the south-east, and is washed upon its eastern 
shore by the Gulf of Cahfornia, while the vast waters of 
the Pacific dash their surges against its mountainous coast 
on the west. 

This peninsula is about seven hundred miles in length, 
and only one hundred and thirty in its greatest breadth on 
the north, with a mean width of about ninety-five miles, 
gradually diminishing as it extends southward, until it reach- 
es its extremity, formed by two bold promontaries. Cape 
Palmo on the east, and Cape San Lucas on the west. 

Lower California has a most uninviting face of country, 
having a high rocky range of hills running the entire extent 
of the peninsula, generally bordering upon its western coast. 
The valleys are few, narrow, and sandy ; and, owing to the 
unfrequency of rains, are unproductive, unless the location 
is such as to admit of irrigation. All the irrigated lands of 
California, as well as Mexico, whether rich or poor, are 
generally very productive. In the northern portion of Low- 
er California, it sometimes happens that rains do not fall for 
years at a time, while to the south, towards the capes, there 
are generally copious and I'efreshing showers during the 
months of June, July and August. 

The western coast of the peninsula is high, dangerous, 
'and rocky, affording but insecure anchorage for vessels; 
while not a stream of any magnitude enters into the ocean 
on that side, and fresh water is not found in any quantities 
near the coast. The harbours on the Pacific, arc at Bay 
la Magdalena, and Port San Quintin ; the latter has fresh 
water in the vicinity. The eastern shores are low, and 



382 APPENDIX. 

without good harbours, the waters of the gulf being shallow, 
and only navigated with danger by the smaller class of ves- 
sels. 

That portion of Mexico which borders upon the Gulf of 
California, east of the peninsula, was originally divided into 
two provinces, but is now comprehended in one, called the 
department of Sonora and Sinaloa, under the government 
of Gen. Urea. Those territories were originally but thinly 
inhabited, but are now, from the mountains to the sea-shore, 
quite as numerously populated as any other portions of Mex- 
ico — a result attributable to the more extensive opening of 
the veins of silver in that department, and the greatly in- 
creased foreign trade of Guamas and Mazatlan — in the last 
of which the population has trebled, since the year 1835. 
There are not less than two hundred Americans at Mazat- 
lan. The port of Guamas is in lat. 23° 40', and although a 
better harbour and safer anchorage than at Mazatlan, in 
lat. 27° 40', yet the latter has a greater commerce than any 
other Mexican port on the Pacific. The department of So- 
nora and Sinaloa has a rich and very productive soil, with 
more numerous and serviceable rivers and water-courses 
than any other portion of Mexico. In the upland region, 
cotton is cultivated, whilst maize and wheat grow to perfec- 
tion, and upon the rivers sugar-cane grows in luxuriance, 
without replanting. The sugar planter has only to cut his 
cane, transport it on the backs of his mules to the mill, where 
it is crushed and prepared by means of a very rude wooden 
crushing machine, altogether used in that country. 

Lower California has long been celebrated for the pearl 
stones contained in the oyster taken on its coasts. It 
is said that the pearl fishery in the Gulf of California has* 
given to the crown of Spain the greatest portion of its royal 
wealth. The pearl is taken there at great hazard of life by 
the Indians, who dive to astonishing depths in pursuit of it. 
The divers are sometimes drowned, and at others destroyed 
by the furious sharks of those waters. The Connackers of 



APPENDIX. ggg 

the Sandwich Islands, are said to be the most expert divers, 
and can swim farther, and remain longer under water, than 
any other people of the Pacific. Diving-bells have been 
ineffectually used in pearl fishing ; yet it is highly proba- 
ble that the more recent invention of gum-elastic water- 
proof suits, with respiring tubes, may be successfully sub- 
stituted, saving great loss of life, and producing much more 
profitable results. The pearl oyster is found between the 
crevices of the rock, at the bottom of the sea. 

The hills and mountains of Lower California are only 
productive of the precious metals; and the mines, though of 
ancient date, were not extensively explored, and are but 
little worked. Near the town of Angelles there is a gold 
mine said to be very rich. In the mining districts of other 
parts of Mexico, gold is not obtained unmixed with silver, 
but in California both ores are found in distinct deposites, 
independent of any other metals, as in some parts of the 
United States. 

The sea of Cortes, so called by the early navigators, af- 
terwards named Mar Vermejo by the Spaniards, and now 
known to the world as the Gulf of California, is an arm of 
the Pacific extending the whole length of the peninsula of 
Lower California, and separating it from the main land, 
with an average width of near one hundred miles. It re- 
ceives the Colorado of the west at its head, in latitude 32°, 
and contains several fine islands, of which Carmen and 
Tiburon are the principal. In early times this gulf was the 
retreat and rendezvous of the Dutch pirates who infested 
the Pacific. 

The climate of Lower California is uniformly that of the 
torrid zone, the soil producing all the fruits grown in tropi- 
cal regions. The country is considered healthy, and indeed, 
the severities of sickness known upon the eastern coast, are 
never felt on the Pacific shores of North America. San 
Bias has been the most unhealthy of any Pacific port, yet 
the Mexican vomito of Vera Cruz has never made its ap- 







334 APPENDIX. 

pearance there. Mr. Peck, an American gentleman pre- 
viously spoken of, who has resided at San Bias and its vi- 
cinity for eight years, states that no sickness or epidemic is 
there periodical, as at Vera Cruz, Tampico, and New Or- 
leans, and that such things are only known occasionally, in 
the lapse of years. 

Lower California is supposed to contain from four to five 
thousand inhabitants. No correct census was ever taken. 
There are but few Mexicans or foreigners among them, the 
population being principally Indians, natives of the country. 



UPPER CALIFORNIA. 

Tms country was discovered in the year 1539, by an ex- 
pedition commanded by Francisco de Ulloa, which was 
fitted out for the purpose of making discoveries by the am- 
bitious and enterprising Cortez, very soon after the conquest 
of Mexico. The first permanent Spanish settlement was 
made in the year 1769, at the present town of San Diego, 
in latitude 32° and 41'. 

Upper, or New Cahfornia, extends along the Pacific from 
latitude thirty-two, to Cape Mindocino in latitude 40"^ and 
19', and from the coast to the east, as far as the boundaries 
of the north-eastern departments of New Mexico. The 
exact area of Upper California is at present undefined, and 
the interior has been but inadequately explored. 

The bays and harbours on this coast are numerous and 
capacious. Among the latter, the principal are the ports of 
San Francisco, situated on the bay of that name, Monterey 
and San Diego, and several others of lesser note. San 
Carlos de Monterey is the capital of California, and has a 
fine harbour and considerable commerce. 



APPENDIX. 



385 



It was at Monterey that a demonstration was made, in 
1842, by the United States Pacific squadron, under com- 
mand of Commodore Jones, who, understanding that a treaty 
had been negotiated by the agents of the British govern- 
ment with Santa Anna, for a transfer of California to Great 
Britain, and that an Enghsh fleet was about to sail for 
Monterey, to consummate the purchase, deemed it his duty 
to resist the anticipated encroachment, and took possession 
of Monterey for the purpose. It has been suggested, that 
the intelligence imparted to Commodore Jones was false, 
and intended to deceive that oflicer and induce the capture 
of Monterey, in order to afford Lord George Paulet, the 
British Admiral, an authoritative precedent, which would 
enable him to plead the doctrine of estopel, in case of Ame- 
rican interference, in his contemplated seizure of the Sand- 
wich islands. Be that as it may, the islands were seized 
without the shadow of just cause, and but for the demon- 
strations of indignation, so universally manifested in this 
country and Europe, in consequence, the great stopping 
place in the highway of the Pacific would now have been 
another English Gibraltar, second in maritime importance 
to no oilier point protected by the British flag. Nearly co- 
eval with this transaction, was the English crusade against 
China, so familiar to the world, — a crusade which, it can 
be demonstrated, was designed to render the Celestial Em- 
pire solely tributary to British commerce and traffic. In 
each of these attempts she was, at least temporarily, defeat- 
ed. But when we view the transactions with scrutiny, there 
is an obvious connexion between the Chinese war, the Sand- 
wich Island affair, and her palpably unwarrantable and con- 
tumacious attitude in reference to Oregon. She has petti- 
fogged us out of our territory on the north-east, and taken 
possession of the strong points on that frontier, by which she 
can easily protect the lower provinces. She has fortified 
the Lake frontier and filled Canada with her troops. She 
is opening a line of communication for steam ships, from 
25 



3g6 APPENDIX. 

Liverpool to the western extremity of Lake Superior; and 
if she maintains her position'' in Oregon, a rail-road to the 
Pacific and a line of steamers via the Sandwich Islands to 
China, will throw into her lap all the European, if not the 
American commerce, v.ath the eastern and southern coast 
of Asia. 

Besides the places hitherto enumerated on the California 
coast, there are the harbours of SSn Pedro, Santa Cruz and 
Punta de los Reyes. But the most celebrated of all, and 
probably the most superior on the American continent, is 
the harbour of San Francisco, situated upon the beautiful 
and capacious bay of that name, in latitude 37° 55'. This 
harbour gives to California, with its fine climate and pro- 
ductive soil, great and incalculable advantages over any 
other country of the western coast, because it presents com- 
mercial facihties of so commanding a character, as to ren- 
der it, in the hands of an enterprising people, the great depot 
of the Pacific. It will be to that coast, if in the possession 
of the Anglo-Americans, what New York is to Atlantic 
countries, the great emporium of commerce and civiliza- 
tion, and ere another century shall have passed away, a 
wealthy, populous, and powerful empire, will have arisen on 
the Pacific, and San Francisco will rival many of its Allan- 
tic neighbours. 

Although this harbour is equal to any other in the world, 
until recently it has been but little known, except as a resort 
for pirates. It is now often visited by navigators, and for 
some time has been an important depot for the vessels en- 
gaged in the whale fishery. Should California remain un- 
der the dominion of Mexico, which is neither a naval nor 
commercial power, with a selfish and isolated colonial poli- 
cy, jealous of the innovations of enterprise and civilization, 
and better satisfied with the gains of an iUicit trade and do- 
mestic free-booting, than the legitimate profits of an enlarg- 
ed, liberal, and honest intercourse with the world, San Fran- 
cisco would remain a small, unimproving, and decaying old 



APPENDIX. 3gy 

town, and the rich country around it an undeveloped waste. 
But the all-wise Being, who created the sea, as well as 
the earth, for the dominion of man, doubtless intended, in 
his own fullness of time, to render the beautiful waters of 
San Francisco of corresponding benefit to his intelligent 
creatures, and will cause them to answer the evident de- 
signs of nature. Time, in its onward course, has been con- 
stantly developing new points and circumstances, which, 
however unimportant in themselves, when taken in con- 
nexion with others, have eventually filled a large space in 
the history of the world ; and when we look at the history 
of empire throughout the world, the progress of population, 
wealth, and civilization to the west, the already rapid Ame- 
rican emigration to California, and the natural and neces- 
sary future connexion of that country with the United 
States, we can but regard it as the great magnet, and the 
ultima thideof the rapid movement of the past — the progress 
of empire towards the setting sun. Although many moun- 
tains and ravines intervene between New Orleans and San 
Francisco, there are no insurmountable barriers to the con- 
struction of a rail-road to connect the two points, and when 
this gigantic thoroughfare shall be completed, the great and 
long-sought " north-western passage to the East Indies," 
will have been discovered. And should American policy 
prevail on this continent, this route will be found to be the 
best, most practicable, and shortest to the Pacific, combin- 
ing advantages in every way superior to all others. 

Within the last few months we have made rapid strides 
towards California ; we have annexed Texas, and all the 
territorial rights and admissions belonging to her govern- 
ment, accrue to the sovereignty of these United States; and 
our flag already waves triumphantly on the left bank of the 
Rio Grande. Whatever may be the result of the present 
question of boundary, between Mexico and the United 
States of the north, the next movement will carry us to the 
Pacific. The only boundary question, if any, now existing 



388 



APPENDIX. 



, between the two nations, is, as to the country beyond the 
Rio Grande. The title of Texas is as valid to all territory 
east of that river, as to any other portion of the country. 
But General Lamar, in his first message as President of the 
Republic of Texas, claimed all of the country lying west of 
Texas to the Pacific. And while the Texan commissioner 
at the court of St. James was negotiating the acknowledg- 
ment of the independence of his country by England, Lord 
Palmerston called the attention of Gen. Henderson, the 
Texan minister, to the extraordinary claim set up by the 
President of Texas, and objected to go on with the negotia- 
tion, lest the acknowledgment of the independence of the 
country might be construed to sanction its asserted claim 
to northern Mexico and California. The commissioner re- 
plied, that he had no authority to commit his government 
on the question of boundary. Nevertheless the indepen- 
dence of Texas was then acknowledged by the British go- 
vernment, and with full knowledge and admission by them 
of President Lamar's claim. The reasoning of Lord Pal- 
merston was correct, and Great Britain is forever estopped 
from opposing our future acquisitions in that territory, even 
by conquest, so long as we leave the question of boundary 
open, and remain uncommitted upon it. 

The rivers of California are not very numerous ; the 
principal streams are the Sacramento, a large fine body 
of water which discharges into the bay of San Francisco, 
and the Colorado (Red) river, which empties into the Gulf 
of California, The Colorado rises near the head waters of 
the Rio Grande del Norte ; and while the one fertilizes a 
vast region west of the great chain of mountains, the other 
for more than one thousand miles forces its way through a 
mountain range, and at last disembogues its waters on the 
opposite side of the continent, into the Gulf of Mexico. 

There are several lakes in the interior plains of Califor- 
nia. That called the Utah (salt) lake, is the largest, deri- 
ving its sahne qualities, doubtless, from the great constituent 



APPENDIX. 



389 



part of carbonate of soda, that exists in all the mineral de- 
posits of the volcanic region about it, and of all the lands of 
Mexico. 

The chain of hills which run through the peninsula of 
California, extend northward, gradually increasing in size, 
until they acquire the character of mountains, the princi- 
pal peak of which is called Mount San Bernardin. These 
mountains are the most western range of California, and 
are commonly called the Sierra Nevada, or snowy moun- 
tains. The greatest breadth of territory, between the moun- 
tains and the ocean, does not greatly exceed one hundred 
miles. The chain of the Cordilleras, or Rocky Mountains 
of Oregon, extend through this province. These mountains 
have their peculiarities of character and formation, varying 
little at different points. At the city of Mexico they are 
called the Sierra Anahuac, after the ancient name of the 
valley of the city of Mexico, whilst in other sections they 
have exclusive appellations. 

The country of Upper California, east of the Sierra Ne- 
vada, was never taken possession of by the Spaniards, or 
their successors, the Mexicans ; and hence it has remained a 
comparatively unknown and unoccupied wilderness. In 
1835, Mexico abandoned her military posts and church mis- 
sions in California, and subsequent historical facts abundant- 
ly prove that the government intended to relinquish the 
country — regarding it as the people of Mexico do, as a re- 
gion too worthless and remote for the expense of its mihtary 
occupancy, or themselves as too weak to sustain their au- 
thority over it. But, after the affair of Commodore Jones, 
at Monterey, the government sent a small body of troops 
there, which however have since been driven off, the inhab- 
itants, including many Americans, having made a success- 
ful revolt against the government of the province. 

The civilized population of California is very small, and 
limited principally to the towns, the aggregate of which 
docs not exceed five hundred. To the north is the town of 



390 



APPENDIX. 



» 



Salvada Rosa, originally founded by the Russians, but now 
occupied principally by Americans, containing about two 
hundred inhabitants. On the bay of San Francisco are sit- 
uated the village of the same name, andv the towns of Santa 
Clara and San Jose, with an aggregate population of about 
fifteen hundred. Further south is the town of Monterey, 
with three hundred settlers, and in the vicinity several other 
lesser places. The most populous tdwri of all California, is 
that of Pueblo de los Angelos, with about one thousand in- 
habitants. 

The greater part of the population of California belong 
to4he aboriginal Indians, and their mixed descendants. The 
<5 Indians are generally of the Camanchejribe ; who, in this 

region, are considered more faithful and honest than the 
common Mexicans at the south, and are better-looking and 
more intelligent than North American Indians generally. 
Nevertheless no reliance can be placed upon them, and the 
trappers and other adventurers in that country^ find it ne- 
cessary to observe the greatest precaution to prevent their 
attempts at murder and theft. 

The mountains of California abound in valuable mineral, 
containing as they do an extension of the veins of silver 
that run through the whole range of the Cordilleras to the 
south. Gold is here found, as in Lower California, independent 
of any other ores ; silver is also abundant. Both metals are 
obtained by the Indians, who crush the ore between rocks, 
and then melt it in rude mud furnaces, producing what is 
called fire silver, an article inferior to the mercury silver, 
by from twenty to twenty-five per cent., in consequence of 
the amount of silex left in the bullion. No country is more 
productive of pure virgin silver than this. The largest spe- 
cimen in the world was obtained from these mountains, and 
purchased by the government of Chihuahua, for the sum of 
five thousand dollars, and may now be seen in the cabinet 
of minerals, at the capital of that department. 

The climate of Upper California varies slightly in tempo- 



APPENDIX. 39 1 

rature from north to south, but is never excessively cold 
at any point. In winter snow is sometimes seen as far south 
as San Francisco, but it soon disappears. The cold of the 
mountains is somewhat more intense, and the silvery crest 
of the Sierra Nevada may be seen for several months in 
the year. From April until November the sky is often 
overclouded, and the weather tempestuous upon the coast, 
while the interior is insufficiently blessed with rains. 

The soil of Upper California resembles that of all the 
country south of it, and without regard to quality it may be 
rendered very, productive, upon the borders of the streams 
or other locations where the lands can be irrigated. All 
kinds of grain flourish in perfection, and the wheat is said 
to be the best in the world, and yielding with little trouble 
the most abundant harvest. Grass is ever verdant and nu- 
tritious, rendering California one of the best grazing coun- 
tries on the globe. 

Neither in Upper nor Lower California can cotton be 
grown to perfection, in consequence of the climate being 
alternately too hot or cold, too dry or too damp. In the 
southern part of the lower province, it occasionally happens 
that years elapse without rain ; while in the upper province 
it is too wet during the three months of the rainy season, 
and the cotton vegetates too luxuriantly; and, on the other 
hand, in the dry region, the staple is short and of a muddy 
complexion, like all cottons cultivated in tropical regions. 
The author has seen cotton growing in the departments of 
Sonoro and Sinaloa, and although in the same parallel of 
latitude t)f the famous cotton region of Texas, it does not, 
under the most favourable circumstances, attain the per- 
fection of the poorest article cultivated in the United States, 
but is of the same character of all the cottons grown south 
of the Rio Grande river. 

By the annexation of Texas, the United States will se- 
cure the monopoly of the cotton trade, rendering thereby 
all manufacturing countries tributary to her for the supply 



392 • APPENDIX. 

of the raw material ; and it only remains for the American 
people to foster this branch of agriculture, and retain the 
control of all the cotton territory on the North American 
continent, to render this nation eventual^ the most wealthy 
and powerful on the globe. 

Bountiful nature has, in no other country, lavished its. 
stores of every kind as in the United States, and its people 
should be thankful and happy. The minerals of the middle 
states, are imbedded in mountains of coal ; whilst the hill 
sides are clothed with thick forests, the sand, the lime, the 
soap-stone, and fire-earth, is ever present for fluxing and 
rendering the ores to metals. 

The trappers and Indians represent the unoccupied coun- 
try east of the Sierra Nevada, as the most inviting to the 
agriculturist, and better capable of supplying the wants of 
civilized life, than that upon the coast. Streams of water 
are there more abundant, and lakes and springs, some valu- 
able for their saline qualities, spot the earth for the benefit 
of animal creation ; while, in the growing season, the dews 
of heaven descend in ample quantities to promote the 
growth of vegetation. That portion of California most 
known, is not remarkable for its agricultural inducements ; 
yet it is abundantly rich in minerals, and possesses greater 
commercial advantages than any other country on the west- 
ern coast of America. The greater part of the territory 
lying between the Sierra Nevada and Texas, remains yet to 
be explored and settled, when it will yield the most bounti- 
ful returns to civilized and christian man. 

As it regards the general history and state of society in 
California, it cannot be otherwise than uninteresting to the 
general reader; and if these outlines shall contribute to 
awaken a degree of interest in the affairs of the western 
portion of our continent, commensurate with the importance 
of the subject, the author of these travels will be amply re- 
warded for his time and expenditures, while travelling 
through the perilous and unfrequented roads of Mexico. 




I 



SI^ZJoAHJBKJ^iraH ETemiBiij:! . 



tA EMPEROR OF MEXICO 



APPENDIX. 393 



BIOGRAPHY OF ITURBIDE, 

EX-EMPEROR OF MEXICO. 

The world is familiar with the career of Don Augustin 
de Iturbide, as the first and only crowned head that has oc- 
cupied a throne in North America since its settlement by 
Europeans ; and, what is more remarkable, he was elevated 
by the free and almost unanimous voice of his countrymen, 
from the station of a citizen to the office and prerogatives of 
a monarch. 

Iturbide was born in the year 1785, in the town of Val- 
ladolid, near the Pacific coast of Mexico ; and sprang from 
one of the oldest and most respectable Castilian families of Ja- 
lasco, who had always occupied an important position in the 
country, and were not less distinguished for their aflfection 
for the people of Mexico than their adherence and loyalty 
to their sovereign down to the period of successful revolu- 
tion. 

The early instruction of Iturbide was very judiciously 
attended to, and, although it was impossible for him to ac- 
quire, in Mexico, what would be regarded, in. Europe, a 
brilliant education, he easily attained all the solid acquire- 
ments suitable to the highest sphere of the politician or sol- 
dier. He exhibited, at an early age, very commanding 
talents, and the history of his subsequent fife must satisfy 
the world, whether they were honourably or advantageously 
exercised. His career commenced in a very important era 
of his country's history, and the great commotion which 
then agitated Mexico has not yet subsided. 

The subjugation of Mexico, by Cortes, was the most un- 
just and bloody conquest that marked the settlement of this 
continent by Europeans. At this period the natives of that 
country were in a state of civilization, far in advance of the 



394 



A PPENDIX. 



other aboriginal nations of America. The arts were in a 
high state of advancement, and the civil government of the 
country was conducted \Vith success and moderation. Cen- 
turies did not efface the traditions of Spanish outrages, the 
cruelties and treachery so wantonly practised in the over- 
throw of the Montezumas ; and it had constantly required 
the most austere military government to keep the natives 
and Creoles in subordination. The mixed castes of Mexico 
and the original inhabitants have ever entertained the keen- 
est hatred for the Spaniard ; and their antipathies were in- 
creased, down to the time of the revolution, by the fact, that 
the offices and emoluments of government were for the most 
part distributed among the Europeans- 

The success of the revolt of the British American colo- 
nies against the mother-government, on account of its usur- 
pations, and the birth and growth of the new republic of the 
United States, had a great effect in strengthening and de- 
veloping the elements of revolution, which existed to as 
great, or greater extent in the Spanish colonies of North 
America. Nevertheless, when it was understood by the 
Mexicans, that the council of Seville had declared war 
against France, they firmly adhered to the fortunes of the 
Spanish king, Ferdinand VIL, and refused to acknowledge 
allegiance to Joseph Bonaparte. Iturigary was then vice- 
roy of New Spain— a popular man with the natives and 
Creoles, but equally unpopular with the Spaniards. The 
latter generally favoured allegiance to Joseph Bonaparte, 
and, setting on foot a conspiracy, in conjunction with the 
French and Europeans generally, succeeded in deposing 
Iturigary and elevating a Spaniard by the name of Venegas 
in his place, who, in consequence of his outrages, became 
excessively odious to the friends of the former viceroy. 

The regard which recent events had inspired among the 
population towards Ferdinand — the hatred of the Spaniards 
who had deserted him — the injustice done to Iturigary, and 
the hateful conduct of Venegas, had all combined to pre- 



APPENDIX. 



395 



pare the way for violence, and but a short time elapsed be- 
fore conspiracies were formed for the purpose of extermi- 
nating the Spaniards. A general insurrection was planned, 
to take place all over the country at once, and was only 
prevented by accidental discovery. 

About this time young Iturbide was in the confidence of 
the government of Madrid, and held a command in his na- 
tive province. He was applied to by Hidalgo, a Catholic 
priest of the rich and powerful province of Guanaxuato, 
who was the chief conspirator in a plan of revolution set 
on foot by himself, to take the office of lieutenant general 
of the revolutionists. The liberal and patriotic character 
of Iturbide, the influence of his family, and the general con- 
fidence which his military reputation would inspire, render- 
ed it an object of the highest importance to secure his co- 
operation. The plans of Hidalgo were listened to by the 
young officer, who, satisfied that there was no chance of 
success, and distrusting the avowed object of the priest and 
his followers, declined joining in the movement. Hidalgo, 
thereupon, collected a band of untrained and ignorant ad- 
venturers, and commenced his march ; but, instead of mak- 
ing a judicious war upon the Spaniards, or against the go- 
vernment, he plundered and pillaged wherever he went. 
His career lasted but briefly, and terminated in his death ; 
his example was left for imitation ; and, for several years, 
similar outrages were constantly practised by parties of 
adventurers, who only sought to plunder and devastate. 

From J810 to 1816, Iturbide held important military 
commands under the viceroys, and, during that interval, 
made several successful attempts to disperse those roving 
parties of robbers, which had frequently inflicted the most 
appalling and unmerited cruelties, and indulged in the most 
outrageous excesses of carnage and robbery, under the 
name of revolution. 

One of these bands was headed by a priest by the name 
of Torres, whose abode, and the head-quarters of his fol- 



396 



APPENDIX. 



lowers were established on the summit of the mountain Los 
Remidios, which was strongly fortified. Here his roving 
parties brought their "beauty and booty;" for neither 
wealth nor female virtue was secure from the ravages of 
these outlaws. At the rendezvous, Torres kept his harem 
filled with the most beautiful women, who were constantly 
singing and shouting praises to their licentious master. He 
issued the most arbitrary orders to his men, who looked up 
to him as the source of all power ; and, in the pride and 
exultation of his success and authority, often exclaimed, 
" Yo soy xefe de todo el mundo" — (I command the world.) 
It was against a demi-savage insurrection, carried on by 
such men and such means as these, that Iturbide arrayed 
himself on the side of the government, although he was at 
this time greatly dissatisfied witJi Spanish oppression, and 
sighed himself for the freedom of his country from foreign 
misrule. 

In 1816 he resigned his office in the army, having gained 
repeated distinction in his military career. This step was 
taken in' consequence of the misrepresentations of several 
important persons, to the government, against him ; and, in 
order to enable a fair investigation into the truth of the 
charges. No witnesses, however, could be produced to 
sustain them, and the most important persons engaged in 
the prosecution abandoned it, alleging that they had been 
deceived. In the interval of his retirement, while quietly 
pursuing his domestic affairs, and attending to the manage- 
ment of his extensive and valuable estates, repeated demon- 
strations of respect and confidence were showered upon 
him, and the authorities of the provinces and towns, and 
the officers of the army, united in an invitation to him, to 
accept the same office he had resigned. The invitation, 
nevertheless, was declined, and Iturbide continued in the 
peaceful avocations of a private citizen, who was tired of 
the turmoil of contending factions, and the deceits of poli- 
tical life. ' 



APPENDIX. 29'7 

The author is mainly indebted to documents and authori- 
ties kindly furnished him by the family and friends of the 
distinguished individual whose history he has attempted to 
sketch, very briefly; and, as Iturbide has furnished the 
world, probably, the best narrative of the transactions that 
immediately preceded the revolution in Mexico, the public 
will be better gratified with his own statement than one 
drawn from cotemporaneous and equally partial sources. 

"In 1820, (says Iturbide,) the constitution was re-estab- 
lished in Spain. The new order of things, the foment in 
which the Peninsula was placed, the machinations of the 
discontented, the want of moderation amongst the support- 
ers of the new system, the vacillation of the authorities, and 
the conduct of the government and Cortes at Madrid, (who, 
from the decrees which they issued and the speeches which 
some of the deputies pronounced, appeared to have deter- 
mined on alienating the colonies,) filled the heart of every 
good patriot with the desire of independence, and excited 
amongst the Spaniards established in the country, the ap- 
prehension that all the horrors of the former insurrection 
were about to be repeated. Those who exercised the chief 
authority, and had the forces at their command, took such 
precautions as fear naturally dictated ; and those persons 
who, at the former epoch, had lived by disorder, made pre- 
paration for again turning it to advantage. In such a state 
of things the richest and most beautiful portion of America 
was about to become again the prey of contending factions. 
In every quarter clandestine meetings took place, for the 
purpose of discussing the form of government which ought 
to be adopted. Among the Europeans and their adherents, 
some wished for the establishment of the Spanish constitu- 
tion. They succeeded in realizing their views to a certain 
extent, but the system was badly understood, and the loose 
manner in which it was obeyed, indicated the shortness of 
its duration. There were some who conceived that it ought 
to undergo modification, inasmuch as the constitution framed 



APPENDIX. 



398 

by the, Cortes at Cadiz was inapplicable to "New Spain." 
Others there were who sighed after the old obsolete govern- 
ment, as the best support of their lucrative employments, 
which they exercised in a despotic manner, and by which 
they had gained a monopoly. The privileged and powerful 
classes fomented their different parties, attaching themselves 
to the one or the other, according to the extent of their po- 
litical information or the projects of aggrandisement which 
their imaginations presented. The Americans wished for 
independence, but they were not agreed as to the mode of 
effecting it, still less as to the form of government which 
they should prefer. With respect to the former object, 
many were of the opinion that, in, the first place, all the 
Europeans should be exterminated and their property given 
up to confiscation. The less sanguinary would have been 
contented v/ith banishing them from the country, thus re- 
ducing thousands of families to a state of orphanage. The 
moderate party suggested only that they should be excluded 
from all public offices, and degraded to the condition in 
which they had kept the natives of the country for three 
centuries. As to the form of government, one party pro- 
posed a monarchy, tempered by the Spanish or some other 
constitution ; a second party wished for a federative repub- 
hc ; and the partisans of each system, full of enthusiasm, 
were impatient for the ac(^.omphshment of their different ob- 
jects." 

At this important crisis, when the pohtical elements were 
in commotion — the jealousies of the weak aroused against 
the opulent and powerful — the apprehensions of the rich ex- 
cited for their personal safety — the country on the eve of a 
great organic revolution, the result of which was uncer- 
tain, the means unknown — whether the change should be 
effected by violence and rapine and bloodshed, or by mode- 
ration and peaceful compromise of opinion and preferences, 
no man knew; at this juncture all classes and all parties 
looked with confidence and solicitude for the action of Itur- 



APPENDIX. 399 

bide. His military reputation was justly higher than any 
of his countrymen. The army was greatly attached to him. 
The Spaniards respected his moderation, and were grateful 
to him for more than once averting the horrors of insurrec- 
tion in several large districts of country. The natives and 
Creoles entertained the greatest confidence in his patriotism, 
and behoved him ready, at the proper time, and on the pro- 
per occasion, to strike for his country's independence. The 
body politic was disordered, and Iturbide M-as, by common 
concurrence of all classes, looked upon as the man for the 
emergency. Applications were made to him from several 
provinces to commence a revolution — plans were proposed 
and information in reference to the capacity of the difterent 
sections for defence and military movements, submitted, — 
the quotas of men, arms, and munitions of war the various 
departments would furnish, w-ere named ; and he became 
satisfied that the time had arrived for consummating his 
long-cherished scheme of separating Mexico from the Span- 
ish empire ; and, yielding to the desire of his friends, imme- 
diately set about perfecting a plan for effecting this great 
object. At a subsequent period in his fife, speaking of this 
particular crisis, Iturbide remarked, that he saw new revo- 
lutions on the eve of breaking out, and his country about to 
be drenched in blood ; that he was led to believe he had the 
power to save her, and he (therefore) did not hesitate to 
undertake so sacred a duty. 

The latter part of the year 1820 was devoted to this great 
undertaking, and the whole energies of his mind were bent 
to organizing and perfecting a plan for separating the vice- 
royally of Mexico from the crown of Spain. Disregarding 
the successful examples of other nations in which reforma- 
tions and revolutions had been accomplished only at the ex- 
pense of anarchy and bloodshed and civil war, he attempted 
the utterance of a plan that should conciliate contrarieties 
of opinion, overcome prejudices, and compromise all classes 



400 



A P P E N D I X . 



more or less to its support, and thus avoid the horrors of a 
servile insurrection and the calamities of domestic war. 

A few months only were sufficient for the accomplish- 
ment of his labours, and on the 21st of February, 1821, he 
published to the world his immortal plan for the separation 
of Mexico from the mother-government, and its erection 
into an independent empire. In this short period he had 
not only formed the outlines of his project, and enlisted the 
various contending factions in its support, but procured its 
ratification by most of the departments of the nation. A 
more interesting or satisfactory account of the motives that 
led to the adoption of the sagacious and beneficent " plan of 
Iguala" cannot be given, than is found in Iturbide's own 
'words, which are as follows : — 

" In tracing out this project, (says he,) my aim was to 
give independence to my country-^^because such was the 
general desire of the Americans; a desire founded on natu- 
ral feelings and on principles of justice. It was, besides, the 
only means by which the interests of the two nations could 
be secured. The Spaniards would not allow themselves to 
be convinced that their decline began with their acquisition 
of the colonies, while the colonists were fully persuaded that 
the time of their emancipation had arrived." 

The plan of Iguala speaks for itself; and, although there 
were some radical errors in its doctrine's and guarantees, 
yet, as a whole, it was wisely conceived for the accomplish- 
ment of the great and legitimate object of its author — the 
promotion of the interests and happiness of the Mexican 
people. It was as follows : 

Plaiv of Iguala. 

Art. 1. The Mexican nation is independent of the Spanish 
nation, and of every other, even on its own continent. 

Art. 2. Its religion shall be the Catholic, which all its in- 
habitants profess. 



APPENDIX. 



401 



Art. 3. They shall be united, without any distinction be- 
tween Americans and Europeans. 

Art. 4. The government shall be a constitutional mo- 
narchy. 

Art. 5. A jurjta shall be named, consisting of individuals 
who enjoy the highest reputation in the different parties 
which have shown themselves. 

Art. 6. This junta shall be under the presidency of his 
excellency the Count del Yenadito, the present Viceroy of 
Mexico. 

Art. 7. It shall govern in the name of the nation, accord- 
ing to the laws now in force, and its principal business shall 
be to convoke, according to such rules as it shall deem ex- 
pedient, a Congress for the formation of a constitution more 
suitable to the country. 

Art. 8. His majesty Ferdinand VII. shall be invited to 
the throne of the empire, and in case of his refusal, the 
Infantes Don Carlos and Don Francisco de Paula. 

Art. 9. Should his majesty Ferdinand VII. and his august 
brothers decline the invitation, the nation is at liberty to in- 
vite to the imperial throne any member of reigning families 
whom it may select. 

Art. 10. The formation of the constitution by the Con- 
gress, and the oath of the emperor to observe it, must pre- 
cede his entry into the country. 

Art. 11. The distinction of castes is abolished, which 
was made by the Spanish law, excluding them from the 
rights of citizenship. All the inhabitants of the country are 
citizens, and equal, and the door of advancement is open to 
virtue and merit. 

Art. 12. An army shall be formed for the support of re- 
ligion, independence, and union, guaranteeing these three 
principles, and therefore shall be called the army of the 
three guarantees. 

Art. 13. It shall solemnly swear to defend the funda- 
mental bases of this plan. 
26 



402 



APPENDIX. 



Art. 14. It shall strictly observe the military ordinances 
now in force. 

Art. 15. There shall be no other promotions than those 
that are due to seniority, or which shall be necessary to the 
good of the service. 

Art. 16. This army shall be considered as of the line. 

Art. 17. The old partisans of independence who shall 
immediately adhere to this plan, shall be considered as in- 
dividuals of this army. 

Art. 18. The patriots and peasants who shall adhere to 
it hereafter, shall be considered as provincial mihtia men. 

Art. 19. The secular and regular priests shall be contin- 
ued in the state in which they now are. 

Art. 20. All the public functionaries — civil, ecclesiasti- 
cal, political, and military — who adhere to the cause of in- 
dependence, shall be continued in their offices, without any 
distinction between Americans and Europeans. 

Art. 21. Those functionaries, of whatever degree and 
condition, who dissent from the cause of independence, 
shall be divested of their offices, and shall quit the territory 
of the empire, taking with them their families and their ef- 
fects. 

Art. 22. The military commandants shall regulate ac- 
cording to the general instructions in conformity with this 
plan, which shall be transmitted to them. 

Art. 23. No accused person shall be condemned capitally 
by the military commandants. Those accused of treason 
against the nation, which is the next greatest crime after 
that of treason to the Divine Ruler, shall be conveyed to 
the fortress of Barrabas, where they shall remain until the 
Congress shall resolve on the punishment which ought to be 
infficted on them. 

Art. 24. It being indispensable to the country that this 
plan should be carried into effect, inasmuch as the welfare 
of that country is its object, every individual of the army 



APPENDIX. 



403 



shall maintain it to the shedding, if it be necessary, of the 
last drop of his blood. 

Town of Iguala, ") 
24th February, 1821.5 

The proffer of the crown of the new empire to the reign- 
ing family of Spain, was calculated to secure the approba- 
tion of the Spanish loyalists, and conciliate the royal fami- 
ly ; and, had the latter consulted their true interests, the 
dignity of the Spanish nation, and the happiness of the 
Mexican people, the offer would not have been rejected. 
The guarantee of the Cathohc, as the national religion, al- 
though in the abstract improper, was nevertheless a wise 
provision in this instance ; for to have made war upon the 
church, or even neglect its interests, was to enhst an op- 
position that would have destroyed the whole object of the 
measure. And while there was offered to the Americans 
the privilege of enacting their own laws, and participating 
in all the benefits of the government, there was also guar- 
anteed to the Spaniard a peaceful home, and adequate pro- 
tection to person and property. 

The greatest, and perhaps the only error (under the cir- 
cumstances) of the new organization, which foreshadowed 
calamitous results, consisted in the provision which abolish- 
ed all distinction of castes, and placed all individuals, whe- 
ther Americans, Spaniards, Africans, or Indians, on equal 
political footing. It is true, this feature had the effect to 
conciliate the prejudices and overcome the jealousies of the 
lower classes, but could the same ends have been peaceful- 
ly accomplished without its adoption, many evils that have 
since resulted in Mexico might have been averted. The 
half civilized masses in that country, unaccustomed to self- 
control and the reflection necessary to the judicious exer- 
cise of the high attributes of freemen, were entirely unpre- 
pared for the change, and, as a natural consequence, their 
political liberty degenerated into political licentiousness. 



404 APPENDIX. 

Here, again, the author takes the libejty of quoting the 
eloquent language of Iturbide, in reference to the result of 
the plan of Iguala, and the consummation of his labours. 

" The operation of putting the plan into execution, 
(says he,) was crowned with the success which I had anti- 
cipated. Six months were sufficient to untwist the entan- 
gled knot that had bound the two worlds. Without blood- 
shed, without fire, robbery, devastation, without a tear, my 
country was free, and transformed from a colony into an 
empire." 

Those Europeans who desired to remain in the country 
were permitted to do so ; and those who held offices, and 
co-operated in the patriotic effort for independence, were 
permitted to retain them. After the organization of the 
provisional government, the most liberal and capable Span- 
iards were elevated to the highest stations, and participated 
in all the honours and advantages of the new order of 
things. Those who preferred were permitted to leave the 
country, and often liberally aided in doing so; no violence 
was exhibited towards any who did not approve of the rev- 
olution, and their property and persons were respected. 

But one thing remained to be done, to complete the per- 
fect independence of the country, and estabhsh the univer- 
sal authority of the new government, which was the reduc- 
tion of the royal government at the capital,, or its acquies- 
cence in the new organization. This step was honourably 
and peacefully accomplished on the 24th of August, 1821, 
by the treaty of Cordova, concluded between Don Juan 
O'Donoju, Lieutenant General of the armies of Spain, and 
Don Augustin de Iturbide, as " First Chief of the Imperial 
Mexican army of the Three Guarantees." Of the authority 
of the contracting parties to make the treaty of Cordova, a 
single observation is only necessary. Iturbide, invested with 
the command of the imperial army, was before the capital, 
and could easily have reduced it ; but, in the alternative he 
pursued, acted in accordaace v\ ith the sentiment of the Mexi- 



APPENDIX, 



405 

can people. And although O'Donoju was not invested with 
the special powers of entering into any particular conven- 
tion, yet he was authorized in all cases to act in accordance 
with his judgment, for the interests of his sovereign; and, 
in this instance, he not only conformed to the sentiments of 
his command, and most of the royal officers in the country, 
but to the dictates of his own judgment of duty, and his de- 
termination no longer to oppose a revolution which had en- 
listed his sympathies, and he believed to be right. He knew 
it was vain for him to contend with Iturbide, or his govern- 
ment to oppose the revolution. The Spanish yoke was al- 
ready thrown off, and the general consulted the highest in- 
terests, if not the honour of his sovereign, when he assented 
to the plan of Iguala, and the stipulations of the treaty. If, 
by this means, he did not gratify the false pride of a family 
in whose hands he had placed the crown of the new empire, 
if they chose to accept it, he at least prevented the improvi- 
dent expenditure of much blood and treasure on both sides. 
The treaty provided for the recoghition of the indepen- 
dence and sovereignty of Mexico; that the government 
should be a limited constitutional monarchy, and the throne 
occupied by an Emperor, who should fix his court at the 
city of Mexico. The third article, in accordance with the 
plan of Iguala, provided for the invitation of Ferdinand 
VII. to the throne ; and, in case of his refusal or denial, of 
one of his august brothers, in the regular order of succes- 
sion ; and, in case of the refusal or denial of all these res- 
pectively, that the national cortes of the empire should de- 
signate the individual who should ascend the throne. By 
the sixth article, a " Provisional Junta of Government" was 
to be appointed, " composed of men the most eminent of the 
empire, for their virtues, their station, rank, fortune, and in- 
fluence, — men marked out by the general opinion," whose 
number should be sufficiently large to insure wisdom of 
council and safety of action. It was also agreed that the 
Junta should elect its president, and appoint a regency, con- 



4Q6 APPENDIX. 

sisting of three individuals, distinguished for their abihty 
and patriotism, who should govern in the name and on the 
behalf of the monarch, until the vacant throne should be filled. 
The regency wsls, immediately on its installation, to con- 
voke the national cortes in the manner prescribed by the 
"Provisional Junta," and in accordance with the plan of 
Iguala. These provisions embraced the principal features 
of the treaty of Cordova ; the other guarantees of the for- 
mer plan were repeated, and some provisions of minor im- 
portance added. The general, Don Juan O'Donoju, also 
agreed to despatch two commissioners, with a copy of the 
treaty, and his representations thereon, to the court of Spain, 
which was complied with. 

In conformity with the stipulations of the treaty, the Spa- 
nish forces capitulated on the 27th of September, and Itur- 
bide entered the city of Mexico. On the same day he nom- 
inated the Junta of government, who were immediately in- 
stalled, and forthwith entered upon the discharge of their 
official duties. To fill this body, men of the highest repu- 
tation were selected from all parties — it being the only 
chance, under the circumstances, of insuring concert of ac- 
tion, and obeying the direction of public sentiment. Thus 
far the plans and measures of Iturbide had secured the com- 
mendation of the country ; the public confidence in his ca- 
pacity, patriotism, and integrity, was greatly augmented, 
which was manifested in a highly increased popularity, and 
the congratulations of his countrymen of all classes and 
stations. His entry into the capital was like a military tri- 
umph, and he was only prevented from being declared Em- 
peror by his resolute remonstrance and refusal. The in- 
stallation of the Junta was approved, and there seemed to 
be at this moment nothing in the way of the complete and 
successful consummation of all his hopes. 

The junta had no sooner convened, however, than the 
aspect was at once changed ; this body, filled with persons 
aspiring to station and power, who were ignorant of the 



APPENDIX. 407 

science of government, but each one of them professing 
peculiar views, and ostentatiously presenting them, soon fell 
into disputes, perverted the pov^^er with which they were 
clothed, and gave great offence to the country. The plan 
was suggested by several of the provinces, that Iturbide 
should dissolve the Junta, and proceed himself to execute 
the important duties which that body had neglected ; and 
he was only deterred from doing so, by the apprehension 
that his conduct might be misconstrued ; and because he 
desired to carry out, as far as possible, the plan of Iguala, 
and thereby preserve the respect of those nations whose 
regard and friendship it was his desire to court and cherish, 
and whose peculiar sentiments of personal prerogative or 
power would come in collision with his, only from a want 
of ability to appreciate the necessities of the emergency. 

There were men at the capital, some of whom were mem- 
bers of the Junta, who, entertaining private views of emolu- 
ment, dishked Iturbide, on account of his general success 
and popularity, and were not slow to enter upon intrigues to 
destroy him. To this end the prejudices of two opposite 
factions were excited — the'one constituting itself the repub- • 
lican, and the other the Bourbon party — united only in the 
single purpose of opposing the measures of Iturbide. The 
former coalesced in the opposition, because they knew that 
his objections to a republic were insurmountable, as he had 
repeatedly expressed them to the nation. They have since 
been published, and are so just and forcible, that both mo- 
narchists and republicans will readily appreciate them. 
"Nature (says the statement on this subject,) produces no- 
thing by sudden leaps ; she operates by intermediate degrees. 
The moral world follows the laws of the physical. To think 
that we could emerge all at once from a state of debase- 
ment, such as that of slavery, and from a state of igno- 
rance, such as has been inflicted on us for three hundred 
years, during which we had neither books nor instructors, 
and the possession of knowledge had been thought a suffi- 



408 



APPENDIX. 



cient cause for persecution ; to think that we could gain in- 
formation and refinement in a moment, as if by enchant- 
ment ; that we could acquire every virtue, forget prejudices, 
and give up false pretensions, was a vain expectation, and 
could only have entered into the visions of an enthusiast." 
Such was the eloquent and truthful vindication of Iturbide, 
for his opposition to the establishment of a republican gov- 
ernment in Mexico, and the history of that country for the 
last quarter of a century has fully attested their justness and 
propriety. 

The Bourbonists, originally in favour of calling a Bour- 
bon to the throne of the empire, after the refusal of the 
Spanish government to ratify the treaty of Cordova, and 
acknowledge the independence of Mexico, of course could 
no longer entertain the hope of realizing their original plans, 
and were in favour of returning to the allegiance of Spain. 
The decree of the government of Madrid, annulling the 
treaty of O'Donoju, was made on the 13th of February, 
1822, and had reached the Mexican capital. To acquiesce 
in the desires of the Bourbon faction, and retrocede from 
the stand which the Mexicans had taken before the world, 
was to sacrifice what they had sought for, and partially 
gained, and to take a step which was impossible, consider- 
ing the state of public feeling. 

At this period Iturbide wielded the power of the army, 
and was far the most popular man in the country; and 
against him, as the prominent leader in the new order of 
things, the whole force of the two factions was bent. 

The first duty imposed on the Junta by the organic bases, 
required that body to frame a proclamation (convocatoria) 
for the assembling of a Congress to form a constitution for 
the monarchy, prescribing the manner of electing and the 
number of representatives to be sent by each department. 
The movements of the Junta were extremely tardy and un- 
satisfactory. But after wasting a great deal of time a very 
defective convocatoria was presented; the representation 



APPENDIX. 409 

was unequal, and calculated to give offence to some of the 
stronger departments ; for while a population of fifty thou- 
sand, perhaps, were given an over large representation ; a 
district, containing twice the number of inhabitants, and a 
much greater amount of wealth and civilization, was only 
entitled to one half as many deputies as the former. The 
elections were greatly vitiated also. Instead of giving the 
people of the district to be represented the direct choice of 
their deputy, or of all the electors who should appoint him, 
the election was confided to the authorities {ayuntemientos) 
of the principal towns, who acted in conjunction with a 
limited number of electors to be named by the country dis- 
tricts. The ayuntemientos were frequently corrupt, or 
easily corrupted, and having greatly the majority of elec- 
tors over those chosen by the country districts, left the se- 
lection of the members to Congress entirely in their con- 
trol. In this way popular suffrage amounted to nothing, 
and popular liberty was in danger of coming to the same 
result. The convocatoria, however, was accepted by Itur- 
bide in the emergency, as the only alternative, and as there 
seemed to be no way to remedy its defects except by the 
action of the congress. 

The elections that took place, in pursuance of this pro- 
clamation, were the scenes of the most corrupt intrigues 
and villanous influences of the factions opposed to Iturbide. 
The members returned were composed, to a great extent, of 
prominent individuals hostile to his plans, and others so ig- 
norant and servile, as to be made the ready tools of the 
leaders. Some were persons who had been prosecuted as 
criminals, and some were Spanish loyalists who had vio- 
lated their paroles ; others were notoriously corrupt, — one 
was an apostate monk, by the original basis excluded from 
a seat, and another was the diplomatic agent at the capital 
of the Republic of St. Salvador, of M'hich he was also ad- 
mitted in congress as the representative. The grossest 
frauds had been perpetrated in the elections ; individuals 



410 APPENBIX. 

were returned who did not receive a majority of the elec' 
toral votes. Remonstrances against the legality of the elec- 
tions, as well as the returns, were made from almost every 
department, charging that the law of the convocatoria had 
been violated, and persons returned as members who did 
not receive a majority of votes. These declared that the 
elections were a nullity, and that no powers were conferred 
by the people upon the Congress. The documents were 
sent to the Executive department, occupied by Iturbide, who 
was then the generalissimo and admiral-in-chief of the em- 
pire. Trusting to the patriotism of a few of the members, 
and the flattering hope that the anticipated errors of the 
Congress-elect might be cured by the succeeding one, the 
rempnstrances were not presented to that body, or other- 
wise acted on. 

The first and principal duty of this congress was to frame 
a constitution for the empire, and provide means for sus- 
taining the civil and military power of the government. 
Eight months passed away and none of these objects were 
attained ; the constitution had not been touched — no finan- 
cial measures were adopted, or likely to be ; the organiza- 
tion of the judiciary was neglected, the administration of 
justice had fallen into disrepute, and civil anarchy existed 
throughout the country. The time was wasted in empty 
declamation ; in making speeches on subjects foreign to the 
objects for which they were assembled, in discussing what 
honours or pensions should be paid to insurrectionary chiefs; 
what titles should be conferred on civil and ecclesiastical 
functionaries, and a hundred other subjects of no graver mo- 
ment. The incompetency and folly of the congress render- 
ed it the object of the contempt of the people ; the public 
press exposed its faults, and one of the deputies, Don Lo- 
renzo de Zavalla, since Vice-President of the Republic of 
Texas, stood up in his place and advocated its reform. 

The factions in this body were evidently seeking delay ; 
one party desiring the triumph of the arms of Spain in an 



APPENDIX. 41X 

anticipated invasion of the country, and the other bent on a 
republican government. The army and the people equally 
detested the dissimulation of the congress, and desired nei- 
ther submission to Spain on the one hand, nor republicanism 
on the other. They had the most unlimited confidence in 
Iturbide, and regarded every manoeuvre of the factionists, 
of either party, as an attempt to depose him. 

In the early part of 1822 the regency of government was 
composed of five members ; the congress, in order to de- 
stroy the influence of Iturbide, who was the president of the 
regency, and his friends in that body, unwarrantably de- 
posed three of the members, leaving one opposed to the pre- 
sident, and consequently annuUing his influence and action 
in the executive capacity. The blow was intended for 
Iturbide, although the congress did not dare to make war 
directly upon, or attempt to depose him, from a fear of his 
popularity and influence with the army. The resolution, 
deposing the members of the regency, was not only a usur- 
pation of power, not delegated to the legislature, but its 
adoption was most unjust and precipitate. Without discus- 
sion, the resolution was passed at a single sitting, and car- 
ried into immediate execution, notwithstanding it had been 
previously decreed by the congress, that every proposition 
before them should be read three times, at as many diflJerent 
sittings, before it should be discussed and passed upon. In 
conneciion with the resolution it was also proposed to di- 
vorce the executive authority and the command of the 
army. But this proposition, also aimed at Iturbide, and in- 
tended to compel him to relinquish either his seat in the re- 
gency, or the command of the army, was lost only for want 
of time. 

Nearly two months had elapsed after the regents were 
deposed ; the popular indignation against the congress was 
aroused to its highest pitch ; anarchy, if not domestic revo- 
lution, threatened in the interior, and the clamours of the 
army were, becoming daily more alarming. Every body 



412 APPENDIX. 

distrusted the congress, and the departments were urging 
Iturbide to dissolve that body, if necessary, by force of 
arms. The attempt to deprive him of the command of the 
army, or his seat in the cabinet, had greatly excited the 
fears of the people and increased the tumults of the sol- 
diers, and doubtless was the immediate cause of the 
event of the 18th of May. The people saw that nothing 
could be expected from the congress, composed as it 
was of ambitious demagogues and factious men, who seem- 
ed determined Jo subserve their own purposes, without 
regard to the fundamental basis already agreed upon ; in 
total contempt of the expressed will of the nation, and at 
the hazard of the independence of the country. They had 
failed to form a constitution : they had failed to adopt any 
of the salutary measures, so indispensable and neces&ary in 
the emergency of the occasion : they were quarrelhng 
among themselves, and warring with the regency. 

Stimulated by these circumstances, on the night of the 
18th of May, 1822, the people and the garrison of the ca- 
pital proclaimed Iturbide the emperor of Mexico. At the 
same instant, as if by magic, the entire capital was in a 
blaze of light ; the public square and private edifices were 
magnificently illuminated ; the buildings were decorated 
with banners, and the balconies were filled with the most 
respectable inhabitants ; every countenance seemed joyful, 
and the universal shout ascended — " Long live Augustin the 
First!" The streets presented a compact mass of human 
life ; the city garrison, officers of the army, the leading ci- 
tizens of the metropolis, and many distinguished men from 
different sections of the country, thronged the vicinity of 
Iturbide's residence, and united in the general acclamation. 
Not a murmur of disapprobation was heard from any 
source ; indeed, the members of the congress, and not all 
of those, were the only individuals at the capital who did 
not rejoice in the movement. 

The vacant throne of the new empire had already been 
refused by Ferdinand and his brothers. The alternative 



APPENDIX. 4] 3 

remained for the congress to select the individual who 
should occupy it ; the country was in a high state of excite- 
ment, bordering on anarchy ; the want of a supreme head 
was manifest ; the congress, whose members were vacilla- 
ting between republicanism on the one hand, and submission 
to Spain on the other, had disappointed and deceived the 
people ; popular sentiment had almost unanimously approved 
the plan of Iguala and tKe additional guarantees of the trea- 
ty of Cordova. Iturbide was the favourite of the nation, 
and public sentiment had for some time marked him out as 
the person who should wear the diadem of Mexico. 

Although aware of his popularity, and expecting the 
movement of the people, Iturbide declared to his friends his 
determination to reject the proffered crown. But he was 
told by those, "that the movement at the capital was the ex- 
ponent of the national will ; and, to refuse compliance, 
would be to turn the popular excitement against himself, 
and to hazard the independence of the country ; that anar- 
chy threatened the nation ; the congress seemed bent on ' 
hastening its destruction, and no other alternative was left ; 
that he had started the ball of revolution, and given inde- 
pendence to the country ; he was the author of the plan of 
Iguala, and had signed the guarantees of the treaty of Cor- 
dova that provided the alternative, now the only one left, 
which the people had adopted in proclaiming him emperor, 
and that to waver, or refuse to yield to their wishes, and 
carry out the only plan that could secure the blessings 
of peace was to sacrifice his labours, sacrifice his friends, 
and desert the cause of independence." 

Whether Iturbide yielded with reluctance or not, to these 
solicitations of his friends, we have only his own statement. 
Most men, under similar circumstances, however ambitious 
for place or honour, would not be very likely to admit that 
they sought the crown which was offered them, and to 
which they had no hereditary title. There can be no doubt 
that the nation regarded him as worthy of it, and if any 



414 



APPENDIX. 



Mexican was entitled to it, from services rendered his coun- 
try, it could not, with justice, have been bestowed upon any 
other, At any rate, whatever may have been his scruples 
on the subject, they were so far overcome that he spent the 
remainder of the night of the 18th of May in quieting the 
people, and asking time for reflection before his final deter- 
mination should be announced. 

On the following day the regency was convened, and a 
full meeting present, the subject was presented to them and 
discussed ; and it was unanimously determined that Iturbide 
should accede to the wishes of the people. The generals 
and superior officers of the army assembled, and united in 
the resolution of the regency. The president of the con- 
gress, who had received official intelligence of what had 
transpired, immediately summoned an extraordinary sitting 
of the congress. The regency and the convention of offi- 
cers argued that it would be impossible to recede from the 
steps already taken ; that an emperor was to be chosen, and 
'that Iturbide was the man ; and, having already dedicated 
himself to the country, they demanded his compUance with 
their wishes. Accordingly, both these bodies drew up me- 
morials, addressed to the congress, requesting them to take 
the subject into consideration. These memorials were 
signed also by the president of the congress, and presented 
to that body. 

When the deputies convened, the galleries and entrances 
were crowded with spectators ; the place resounded with 
applauses. In this important moment all was excitement, 
and the calm of deliberation was prevented. A deputation 
was immediately appointed to wait on Iturbide, and request 
his presence ; the duty was executed, but Iturbide at first 
declined to attend at the sitting, adding, that as the congress 
" were about to treat of him, personally, his presence might 
be considered as a restraint on the freedom of debate, and 
a clear and frank expression of each individual opinion." 
The deputation, however, with several general officers, re- 



APPENDIX. 4J5 

turned to him, and insisted on his compHance with the invi- 
tation of the congress. He yielded to their persuasion, and 
while repairing, through the immense throng in the street, 
to the hall in which the deputies were sitting, the horses 
were removed from his carriage, and the vehicle drawn by 
the people to the doors of the place, amidst the shouts and 
vivas of the inhabitants ; and, on his entrance, the acclama- 
tions were renewed with equal enthusiasm. 

Without delay, the question of nomination was debated, 
and not a single member opposed the measure ; all acquies- 
ced in their expressions of its propriety and importance, and 
but few even questioned the authority of the congress to 
act on the subject. These were of the opinion that the 
provinces should be consulted, and a formal concurrence 
manifested with an enlargement of the powers of the con- 
gress for the purpose. Iturbide rose three times to acqui- 
esce in these views, and, with repeated arguments, recom- 
mended their adoption. But the majority thought otherwise, 
and Iturbide was elected emperor, by a majority of seventy- 
seven members, out of ninety-two, who were present and 
voted. As was before remarked, all had expressed them- 
selves in favour of his election, and the fifteen who voted 
in the minority did so under the avowed impression that 
their powers were too limited, expressing at the same time 
their opinions that their constituents would be gratified and 
unhesitatingly sanction the action of the congress. 

It has been charged, and is highly probable, that the fears 
of the deputies were aroused by the excitement of the peo- 
ple, and the presence of the army at the capital ; neverthe- 
less, there can be no doubt of the power and duty of the 
congress to fill the vacant throne; the third article of the 
treaty of Cordova, which had been fully ratified by the pro- 
vinces, made it expressly incumbent on that body ; and in 
selecting Iturbide, they were but carrying out the wishes of 
the authorities, and obeying the mandates of the people and 
the army. 



416 



APPENDIX. 



The resolution of the congress was immediately despatcli- 
ed to all the departments, towns, and garrisons, and without 
exception met with the entire approbation of them all. 
This was officially notified to the supreme government, 
with the assurances that the congress had, in that instance 
at least, gratified the desire of the nation, and that the de- 
partments would have instructed their deputies to offer the 
crown to Iturbide, but that they had sworn to support the 
plan of Iguala and treaty of Cordova, and they were not pre- 
viously aware that the stipulation, guaranteeing the crown 
to the Bourbon family, had been rendered nugatory by the 
decree of the court of Madrid, and the contingency oc- 
curred, by which the Congress were permitted, and required 
to offer it to some other individual. 

It will be proper here to state, that Brigadier Santa Anna, 
then a Colonel of infantry at Vera Cruz, whose biography is 
also appended to this book, was one of the first officers of 
the provincial garrisons who congratulated Iturbide, and in 
his despatches to the latter, declared that he had himself 
made arrangements to proclaim him emperor at Vera Cruz, 
in case it had not been done at the city of Mexico. This 
fact is only worthy of remark, because, as subsequent events 
will show, this individual was the first to raise the standard 
of revolt against the government of the empire. 

In confirmation of the vote by which Iturbide was elect- 
ed emperor on the 19th of May, the congress, on the 22d 
of June following, resolved, without a dissenting voice, — 
there being one hundred and nine members present, — that 
the crown should be hereditary in the family of Iturbide in 
lineal succession ; that his eldest son, as heir apparent, 
should be entitled the " Prince of the Empire," his other sons 
designated as " Mexican Princes ; his father the " Prince of 
the Union," and his sister the " Princess de Iturbide." On 
the same occasion, the regulations for the coronation were 
established, and all these resolutions adopted without the 
restraint of the Emperor's presence ; in the absence of the 



APPENDIX. 



417 



military and the populace; when the city was in perfect 
quiet ; without compulsion or suggestion, but of their own 
accord and in perfect unanimity. These confirmatory re- 
solutions, passed more than a month after the event of the 
19lh of May, without menace or restraint, on the sole res- 
ponsibiHty of the congress, and after most of the deputies 
had had time to consult with, and hear from their consti- 
tuents, show conclusively, that the elevation of Iturbide to 
the throne, was not only a popular step, but that the depu- 
ties were aware of it, and yielded w^hatever objections they 
previously entertained, to the wishes of the people, and the 
necessities of the case. By these, and the former acts of 
this congress, the official ratification of the Provinces, and 
the universally expressed approbation of the people, Iturbide 
was made and acknowledged the Sovereign of Mexico, by 
the highest and most solemn acts, by which any individual 
can be invested with the high attributes of imperial power. 

For some time after his accession to the throne, the 
country enjoyed an uninterrupted repose; the apprehen- 
sions of foreign invaders had passed away ; the capital and 
the provinces were quiet, and the discontents of the factions 
in the congress seemed to have subsided. But little time 
elapsed, however, before the latent embers of discord were 
again fanned into a blaze ; the congress repeated the scenes 
that preceded the coronation ; clandestine meetings of its 
members, assembled to concoct conspiracies to overthrow 
the government, were detected ; reports were circulated by 
these cabals — with the view to excite the fears of the timid 
republicans, and the jealousies of the aspiring Europeans — 
to the effect that Iturbide aimed at absolute power. The 
repeated charges of the conspirators were circulated in the 
interior ; but neither the authorities nor the people believed 
them, and indeed disregarded them entirely, except to de- 
nounce the authors, and transmit to the capital the intelli- 
gence and proof of their treason. 

Iturbide notified the congress officially, that certain of 
27 



41g APPENDIX. 

its members were charged with conspiracy and treason, a-pd 
that body was requested to inquire into the facts. To this 
message no attention was given, the public tranquillity was 
again threatened ; the discontents of the people were fear- 
fully manifested ; they regarded the congress with jealousy, 
and the Emperor determined on ordering the arrest of the 
principal deputies engaged in the conspiracy. This step has 
since been condemned by many persons, but was undoubt- 
edly a prerogative of the Spanish monarch ; and until it 
was abrogated by the new constitution of Mexico, was 
equally authoritative there as in Spain. 

On the 26th of August, the deputies accused of treason 
were accordingly arrested, and the prima facia evidence of 
their guilt, {sumaria,) which had been collected by order of 
the council of State, placed upon the public records. The 
congress now became indignant and refractory, and de- 
manded that the imprisoned deputies should be given up to 
them, for trial by their compeers. Iturbide refused compli- 
ance with this demand ; because, as he alleged, the con- 
gress yet contained many other individuals suspected or 
charged with being participators in the crimes of which the 
arrested were accused, and it had disregarded the accusa- 
tions against the same persons previously preferred in his 
message, and refused to institute an investigation into their 
truth. 

From the period of the arrest, up to the 30th of October, 
a constant contention existed between the congress and the 
Emperor. By this time the popular clamour was again 
aroused against the former, and that body was threatened 
with forcible dissolution. The provinces refused to grant 
any further pay to their representatives, on the ground that 
they did not discharge their duties. Several of them had 
repudiated the pla^n of Iguala, and the treaty of Cordova, 
from their places in the congressional palace, and were 
constantly fomenting disorder and discontent. The press 
and the political writers were again inveighing against the 



APPENDIX. 419 

congress, which had become the contempt of the people. 
The position of affairs throughout the country, the indiffer- 
ence and wrangHng of the deputies, demanded energetic 
action on the part of the government, which itself must 
come into contempt, if it longer permitted the vacillating 
and factious legislature to disgrace the nation. 

On the 30th of October, the Emperor transmitted his des- 
patch to the President, informing him that the congress 
over which he presided was dissolved; and, without excite- 
ment or violence of any kind, the session was thereupon 
terminated. From all parts of the country the same con- 
gratulations followed this act of the Emperor that succeeded 
his accession to the throne ; no dissatisfaction was exhibit- 
ed ; but, on the contrary, official congratulations and con- 
firmations of the act, were received from the various de- 
partments. 

The necessities of the government and the country re- 
quired the action of the legislature ; and, lest the measures 
about to be adopted by the Emperor, for the public relief, 
might be regarded as a usurpation of power, a legislative 
council was organised, composed of forty-five of the late 
deputies, representing each of the departments, and eight 
additional members, called the " Istituent Junta," whose duty 
it was to adopt such measures as immediate emergencies 
called for ; and also to frame a convocatoria for a new con- 
gress, in conformity with the plan of Iguala, and the treaty 
of Cordova, avoiding the defects and errors of that adopted 
by the " Provisional Junta." This measure also received 
the general approbation of the country, and called for the 
renewed congratulations of the provinces and garrisons. 

At this period all was tranquil in the interior ; the gov- 
ernment was in successful operation, and the people were 
apparently contented and prosperous. The castle of San 
Juan de Ulloa, however, still remained in the hands of the 
Spanish garrison, and it became an object of the govern- 
ment to capture that fortress, and expel the last armed op- 



420 



APPENDIX. 



ponent of the revolution from the country, and, by that 
means, cut off all opportunities of communication between 
Cuba and that point. Santa Anna, who, it will be remem- 
bered, was one of the strongest adherents of Iturbide, and 
the first to congratulate him on his accession to the throne, 
held the station of commandant of the garrison of Vera 
Cruz, under Echavari, who was captain general of the pro- 
vince. Some jealousies and animosities sprang up between 
these two individuals, in reference to their respective au- 
thority, and Santa Anna attempted to procure the assassi- 
nation of Echavari. In this he was baffled, and representa- 
tions of the circumstance, with several other serious charges, 
were made against him to the Emperor, by the former cap- 
tain general, the consulate, the lieutenant colonel of his own 
regiment, and many of the most respectable inhabitants of 
Vera Cruz. At the same time Santa Anna visited Iturbide, 
at Jalapa, to answer the charges ; the interview was unsat- 
isfactory to the latter, as the proofs of his guilt greatly pre- 
ponderated his defence, and in consequence he was deprived 
of his command. Falling into a violent paroxysm of pas- 
sion at this result, he flew back to the garrison, and, by en- 
dorsing the charges of the conspirators, who had attempted, 
and thus far failed, to overthrow the imperial government, 
succeeded in persuading the troops to join him, and raise 
the standard of revolt. At the city of Vera Cruz there was 
greater opposition to the new government than elsewhere, 
in consequence of the numerous and wealthy Spanish resi- 
dents of the place, and hence the garrison were the more 
easily persuaded to revolt. 

At the head of his rebel troops, Santa Anna advanced 
upon the towns of Alvarado and Antigua ; these surrender- 
ed, and he made a rapid march to Jalapa, where he attack- 
ed the garrison, but was signally defeated, and compelled to 
retreat. The two former towns again placed themselves 
under the protection of the government. The forces of the 
Emperor were at this time very strong, and commanded by 



APPENDIX. 421 

General Echavari and Brigadier Cortazar, who might have 
easily put down the rebelUon, and taken possession of Vera 
Cruz. But, owing to the want of celerity in their move- 
ments, Santa Anna and his dispersed followers were enabled 
to reach the fortress of the city, which was defended by 
two hundred mulattoes, under command of Don Guadalupe 
Victoria. Troops, munitions, and money, in great abun- 
dance, M''ere furnished Echavari, with orders to reduce the 
revolting garrison, and there was no obstacle to his success. 
The officers at Vera Cruz, including Santa Anna, had be- 
come alarmed for their safety, and were making arrange- 
ments to embark on board a vessel to escape from the coun- 
try. Echavari, however, delayed terminating the rebellion, 
which a few days would have sufficed to quell, with the su- 
perior forces under his comimand; and, indeed, his apathy 
induced the garrison to hold out until the 2d of February, 
when the act of Casa Mata was presented to, and accepted 
by both armies, which terminated the contest — the opposing 
forces uniting together, as then alleged, with no other object 
than to procure the re-establishment of the congress. 

The conspiracies set on foot by the factious deputies were 
secretly fomented during the siege of Vera Cruz, the failure 
of which gave additional confidence to the conspirators. 
On the 1st of February, nearly two thousand troops had 
collected with the insurgent chiefs, and held their head- 
quarters at Casa Mata. The Bourbonists and republicans 
had coalesced, and were in open opposition to the govern- 
ment, and the measures of the Emperor. At this place the 
convention of Casa Mata was agreed upon by the insurgent 
army. It provided that the congress should be reinstated, 
the provinces be permitted to return their " former deputies," 
with some few exceptions ; that the person of his Majesty, 
the Emperor, should be respected, as he was asserted to be 
in favour of national representation, and that copies of the 
convention should be forwarded to him. This act, agreed 
upon by two thousand insurgents, dictating to the country 



422 



APPEN0I X. 



who might, or who should not, be elected to the congress ; 
an act which acknowledged the rights and capacity of Itur- 
bide as Emperor, and only purported to provide for the re- 
establishment of the congress, proved the overthrow of the 
imperial government. 

As soon as the leaders at Vera Cruz had coalesced — Echa- 
vari turning traitor to the government — the combined forces 
overrun the provinces of Vera Cruz and Puebla. The 
Marquis de Vivauco, commandant of Puebla, also joined in 
the movement ; and two of the most powerful provinces 
were thus in open rebelhon. The example influenced seve- 
ral others, and they also agreed to the act of Casa Mata. 
At this juncture the Emperor placed himself at the head of 
the government forces, and marched out to meet the insur- 
gents ; and, on his reaching their vicinity, commissioners 
from the two armies met, and agreed upon a parley, until 
the national congress should be convened, in accordance 
with the new convocatoria framed by the " Instituent Jun- 
ta," and that all differences between them should be decided 
by that body. During the parley, emissaries were sent to 
all the departments by the conspirators, to persuade them to 
conform to the act of Casa Mata. 

Iturbide, in accordance with the agreement entered into 
with the commissioners, issued his proclamation for a new 
congress, which was convened. But finding that he had 
been deceived by the army, and deserted by some of his 
former friends, whose individual ambition had led them to 
oppose him ; that the new congress was composed of the 
same individuals who were engaged in the insurrection, and 
that his longer continuance in a position which so greatly 
excited the envy and hostility of the ambitious aspirants 
who filled the "congress, would be productive of no good to 
the country, or satisfaction to himself, he determined forth- 
with to abdicate the throne, and ask permission of the con- 
gress to exile himself from Mexico. Whether in this prop- 
osition, as has been charged, the Emperor was actuated by 



APPENDIX. 



423 



fear, or by the foregoing suggestions, and a desire to avoid 
the animosities and strife his elevation had given rise to, 
must be decided by a careful reference to the facts. His 
own statement is worthy of regard, and will be read with 
interest. It is as follows : 

" I surrendered my power (says the statement,) because 
I was already free from the obligations which irresistibly 
compelled me to accept it. The country did not want my 
services against foreign enemies, because at that time it had 
none. As to her domestic foes, far from being useful in re- 
sisting them, my presence might have proved rather preju- 
dicial to her than otherwise, because it might have been used 
as a pretext for saying that war was made against my am- 
bition, and it might have furnished the parties a motive for. 
prolonging the concealment of their political hypocrisy. I 
did not abdicate from a sense of fear ; I know all my ene- 
mies, and what they are able to do. With no more than 
eight hundred men, I undertook to overthrow the Spanish 
government in the northern part of the continent, at a mo- 
ment when it possessed all the resources of a long esta- 
blished government, the whole revenue of the country, ele- 
ven European expeditionary regiments, seven veteran regi- 
ments, and seventeen provincial regiments of natives, which 
were considered as equal to troops of the line, and seventy 
or eighty thousand royalists, who had firmly opposed the 
progress of Hidalgo's plot. Had I been actuated by fear, 
would I have exposed myself to the danger of assassina- 
tion, as I did, by divesting myself of every means of de- 
fence ? 

" Nor was I influenced in my resignation by an apprehen- 
sion that I had lost any thing in the good opinion of the 
people, or in the affections of the soldiers. I well knew^ 
that at my call the majority of them would join the brave 
men who were already with me, and the few who might 
waver, would either imitate their example, after the first 



^24 APPENDIX. 

action, or be defeated. I had the greater reason to depend 
on the principal towns, because they had themselves con- 
sulted me with respect to the line of conduct which they 
ought to pursue under the circumstances of the moment, 
and had declared that they would do no more than obey 
my orders, which were, that they should remain quiet, as 
tranquillity was most conducive to their interests as well as 
to my reputation. The memorials from the towns will be 
found in the ministry of state and the captaincy-general of 
Mexico, together wnth my answers, which were all in fa- 
vour of peace and against bloodshed. 

" My love for my country led me first to Iguala ; it in- 
duced me to ascend the throne, and to descend again from 
so dangerous an elevation; and I have not yet repented 
either of resigning the sceptre or having proceeded as I 
have done. 1 have left the land of my birth after having 
obtained for it the greatest of blessings, in order to remove 
to a distant country, where I and a large family, delicately 
brought up, must exist as strangers, and without any other 
resources than those which I have already mentioned ; to- 
gether with a pension, upon which no man would place 
much dependance, who knows what revolutions are, and is 
acquainted with the state in which I left Mexico." 

The new congress complied with the requests of the Em- 
peror, permitted him to abdicate the throne and leave the 
country; and passed an act annulling the coronation, the 
acts of his government, and several of the decrees of the 
former congress. It also settled upon him during life a 
pension of $25,000 per annum, provided that he should take 
up and continue his residendJe in some part of Italy, and 
upon his family, after his death, unconditionally, the sum of 
$18,000 annually. 

Demonstrations of affection and respect for the person 
and position of Iturbide were manifested to so great a de- 
gree at the capital, as to render it necessary to occupy the 



APPENDIX. ^ 425 

Streets with soldiers, and post artillery at the principal 
places ; and the route of his escort to the coast was often 
intercepted by the people in their eagerness to pay the last 
tokens of regard to the man they yet loved before all others. 
At Tacubaya, when the Marquis de Vivauco addressed the 
troops on the subject of his departure, they shouted as voci- 
ferously as ever, " Live Augustin the First." 

Iturbide remained in Italy but five months, having determin- 
ed to go to England; where, learning that an attempt had been 
made to establish a republican government in Mexico, and 
that his country was again the theatre of domestic war, he 
was persuaded to return and offer his services to restore, if 
possible, happiness and tranquillity to the nation. In pur- 
suance of this resolution he sent several communications to 
the government offering his services, and embarked on board 
a vessel with his family and a friend. Col. Charles de Be- 
neski, and arrived off the bar of /Soto la Marina on the 12th 
of July, 1824. Here he was met by General Garza, the 
Governor of Tamaulipas, who, pretending friendship for 
Iturbide, offered his assistance in forwarding his views, but 
at the same time advised him to surrender himself a prisoner 
to the congress of Tamaulipas and abide its disposition, 
assuring him that his representations to that assembly would 
meet with favour. 

In the absence of Iturbide the national congress had de- 
creed, that " in case he should attempt to land in the coun- 
try in any capacity whatever, he should be declared an out- 
law," and the authorities should proceed to punish him as 
such. He was not aware of the existence of this denuncia- 
tion when he landed, and unconsciously yielded to the 
treacherous advice of Garza ; and the congress of Tamau- 
lipas with the utmost precipitation, and without giving him 
a trial, or even a hearing, passed sentence of death upon 
him in pursuance of its vindictive construction of the na- 
tional decree. 

The interval before the expiration of his sentence was spent 



426 



APPENDIX. 



in performing tlie last duties of a Christian ; and M^hen he 
was brought out to be executed, he asked and obtained per- 
mission to address the soldiers, which he did in the follow- 
ing language : — " Mexicans ! in this last moment of my life 
I recommend to you the love of your country and the due 
observance of our holy religion; it is religion which will 
lead you to glory. I die for having flown to your assistance, 
and die happy in expiring among you. I leave this world 
with honour and not as a traitor — this foul stigma shall not 
attach itself to the fair fame of my descendants. No, it 
shall never be said that I was a traitor! Preserve strict 
subordination and be obedient to your commanders. By 
acting in conformity to their mandates you will obey those 
of your Creator. I do not address you from any motives of 
vanity, for I am far from harbouring them. From the bot- 
tom of my heart I forgive all my enemies — really from my 
heart." These were the last words of the " Hero of Igu- 
ala" and the " Liberator of Mexico." With his own hands, 
(says a by-stander,) he adjusted the bandage upon his eyes, 
knelt down, and receiving two balls in his forehead and two 
in his heart, fell dead. 

Thus was ended the career of Don Augustin de Iturbide, 
the greatest statesman, the best man, the purest patriot, and 
the greatest benefactor of his country, of any of his cotem- 
poraries in Mexico. He fell by the treachery of his pre- 
tended friend, Garza, and the unjust and ungrateful decision 
of the congress of Tamaulipas. 

The highly interesting family of this distinguished man, 
consisting of Mrs. De Iturbide, five sons and three daugh- 
ters, now reside in the city of Philadelphia, and are objects 
of the highest regard to a great portion of the Mexican na- 
tion — a nation that now mourns the loss of its greatest be- 
nefactor and patriot, and too late discovers and laments the 
errors and crimes of the factions which were instrumental 
in overthrowing his government. 



APPENDIX. 427 



ANTONIO LOPEZ DE SANTA ANNA, 

EX-DICTATOR OF MEXICO. 

This remarkable man, who has occupied a greater space 
than any of his cotemporaries since Iturbide, in the history of 
the Mexican Republic, was born in the department of Vera 
Cruz. Springing from an obscure and indigent family, he has 
been the architect of his own character and fortunes, and by 
his intuitive energy, talents, and ambition, has risen to the 
highest stations of his country, — passing through all the 
grades of rank, from a subaltern in the field, to the leader of 
^armies, and finally the chief magistrate of the nation. 

In early life, with an inadequate education, he joined the 
army, and for some time was more distinguished for his 
severe application to the study of the military science and 
the necessary accomplishments of the gentleman, than his 
success in the practical duties of the soldier. With a natu- 
ral suavity of manners, refined by his intercourse with the 
best society of Vera Cruz, and the discipline of a studious 
and observing mind, he acquired a facility of address that 
rendered him at once conspicuous in the camp, and secured 
the favourable and friendly notice of his superiors, both in 
the army and the society in which he was admitted. 

Taking advantage of his popularity, he was soon enabled 
to rise to inferior commands, in which he invariably distin- 
guished himself. While yet a lieutenant, at the head of 
thirty men, he attacked and vanquished a party of Indians? 
numbering about three hundred and twenty, well armed, 
and occupying a strong position in the deep gorge of a 
mountain, wliich he forced at the head of his small squad of 
regulars. But it was generally by the subtilty of his ma- 
noeuvres, and the success of his stratagems, that he ob- 



428 APPENDIX. 

tained his earlier, as well as later laurels ; and there is no 
trait in the Mexican soldier held in higher appreciation — 
not even that'of courage — (although Santa Anna was never 
supposed to be wanting in that respect,) than a successful 
subtilty in forming and executing plans to baffle his eiiemy. 
As early as 1815, he had commended himself to the favour- 
able regard of the leaders of the country, and was rapidly 
rising in wealth, military rank, and political influence. 
One of the first friends of the revolution, he ranged himself 
in the ranks of the liberals, and warmly espoused the friend- 
ship and plans of Iturbide ; and on the promulgation of the 
new plan of government, on the 24th of February, 1821, 
he placed himself at the head of a small and badly organized 
force, and pronounced in favour of the movement of Itur- 
bide, attacked the Spanish garrison at Vera Cruz, and com- 
pelled them to evacuate the city and confine themselves to 
the castle of San Juan de Ulloa, which fortress, however, 
(one of the strongest in the world,) commanded the entrance 
to the harbour. The position of the commander of the 
forces at Vera Cruz, was one of the first importance, and 
gave great power and responsibility to the incumbent. 
These he was in every respect capable of discharging with 
ability and success, and thereupon was appointed Com- 
mandant-general of the department. 

While acting in this capacity he gave offence to the Em- 
peror Augustin, in consequence of his treatment to a supe- 
rior officer. General Echavari, and was dismissed from the 
command of the department. This incensed Santa Anna, 
who, leaving Iturbide at Jalapa with the courier bearing 
the order of his dismissal, reached Vera Cruz before the 
arrival of the messenger with the intelligence of his dis- 
grace, and influenced the garrison, with whom he was popu- 
lar, against the alleged usurpations of the Emperor, who, he 
declared, had " acted the usurper ; having forcibly dissolved 
the national Cortes, and imprisoned several of its members 
who had refused to submit to his dictation ; and that he had 



APPENDIX. 429 

assembled in their stead a venal junta that more perfectly 
reflected the will of its imperial master." 

By such representations he was successful in stimulating 
his soldiers to revolt, and immediately prepared to com- 
mence hostilities against the emperor. He issued his "pro- 
nunciamento" against the government of the "Usurper," 
and called on his countrymen, in other departments, to aid 
him " in resisting the encroachments of a tyrant, who had 
laboured to deliver them from foreign bondage, only to fas- 
ten upon them the chains of a domestic despotism." The 
republican party of Mexico, unwilling to sacrifice what they 
had won from Spain, to, v/hat they imagined to be, the am- 
bition of one man, and inspired by the boldness and strength 
of Santa Anna, whose renown was already coextensive 
with the land, readily joined his standard, and several other 
garrisons and departments immediately followed the exam- 
ple of Vera Cruz. 

Guadalupe Victoria, one of the most popular and talent- 
ed republicans of the country, who had been compelled to 
escape from the persecution and pursuit of individual ene- 
mies, at this time emerged from his retreat, and leading the 
new revolution, succeeded in dethroning Iturbide, who went 
into voluntary exile from the country; and, in establishing 
the Federal Constitution of 1824, after the plan of that of 
the United States, being, with few exceptions, copied from 
that instrument. In these exceptions, however, was sacri- 
ficed the safeguards of republican liberty ; for, while there 
was no provision for the right of trial by jury — that great 
palladium of popular liberty — there was inserted an article 
giving to all classes equal rights of citizenship, without re- 
gard to intelligence, property, or colour. Another provi- 
sion declared the Roman Catholic, and no other, to be the 
religion of Mexico — thus destroying the right of men to 
think or act for themselves — enslaving their consciences, 
and giving to a priesthood, however corrupt, the entire spi- 
ritual dominion over the people. 



,OQ APPENDIX. 

In 1824, Guadalupe Victoria was installed the first Pre- 
sident of Mexico. A virtuous and patriotic man, his only 
aim was the establishment of his country's independence, 
and the promotion of constitutional liberty. Aware of the 
success of the republican experiment in the United States 
of the north, and an ardent admirer of American charac- 
ter, he readily listened to the plans of colonizing the unoc- 
cupied public lands with American settlers ; and it was un- 
der his administration that the colonization experiment 
commenced. 

For a time, Mexico gave evidence of good order and 
good government ; but she was not destined to a long re- 
pose from anarchy and bloodshed. Santa Anna, who was 
the father of the revolution which resulted in establishing the 
federal corlstitution, having himself borne an active part in the 
contest; in perfecting the constitution itself, and elevating the 
virtuous and patriotic Victoria to the presidency, was the first 
man to stir up civil war and raise the standard of revolt. In 
the prosecution of his traitorous designs, he left Vera Cruz 
with a considerable force, in the early part of 1825, landed 
at Tampico, and, meeting with no resistance, marched to the 
city of San Louis Potosi, the capital of the department of 
that name, proclaiming himself the " Protector of the Re- 
public." The new government, however, was too popular 
with the people, and possessed sufficient strength to put 
down the revolution. Santa Anna, already perjured, by 
having violated the sacred instrument he had not only aided 
in erecting, but sworn to support and defend, was compelled 
again to submit to the government, and take a second oath 
of allegiance to its authority and the constitution. During 
the remainder of President Victoria's term, which expired 
in 1828, he remained in retirement at his principal estate of 
Monga de Clav^o, awaiting the first opportunity, after the 
popular indignation had subsided, to make his reappearance. 
This did not occur until after the next election. The con- 
test for the second term of the chief-magistracy was one of 



APPENDIX. 43 J 

the most remarkable and violent political strifes ever knov^^n 
in that country. 

There were but two candidates, Gomez Pedraza and Ge- 
neral Guerrero, who were respectively the favourites of two 
distinct masonic fraternities, each entertaining peculiar, but 
opposite notions of government ; the former was the candi- 
date of the York lodge, which imbibed its political princi- 
ples, and received its name from the New York masons, 
under the auspices and direction of the foreign repubHcan 
legations at Mexico ; the latter was the candidate of the 
Escoces, or Scotch lodge — inculcating the principles of 
monarchical government, under the influence of certain 
European diplomatists in that country. 

The excitement which prevailed throughout the republic 
can scarcely be imagined; the popular fury was wrought 
up to the highest pitch, by these secret rival factions ; and 
the experiment— it is to be hoped the last — abundantly 
proves the danger of using two such tremendous engines of 
prejudice and power in popular elections. Communities, 
individuals, and families, were arrayed against each other 
in hostile attitude, and the plains of Mexico were again red- 
dened with the blood of civil war. But Pedraza, the re- 
publican lodge candidate, vi^as triumphant, having been 
elected by a majority of one vote in the electoral college. 

Pedraza was in the chair — the popular war had not sub- 
sided — no influence or power seemed capable of quieting 
the troubled waves. At this propitious period for the trai- 
torous agitator, Santa Anna again made his appearance, 
and, raising an army, composed of discontented soldiers, 
and the disappointed mob, who had failed to elect Guerrero, 
took immediate possession of the strong castle of Perote, 
and published a pronunciamenio against the election of Pe- 
draza, declaring it to be a cheat ; and that General Guerre- 
ro was the constitutional President of Mexico. 

In his first attempt to subvert the government, he was de- 
feated and compelled to evacuate Perote, and fly to a re- 



432 



APPENDIX. 



treat in the mountains of Oajaca, where he joined a band of 
brigaads, a refugee from the violated constitution and out- 
raged laws of his country. But he was not destined to re- 
main long in concealment; the revolution he began, had 
progressed successfully at the capital ; Pedraza was deposed 
and driven into exile, and Guerrero succeeded to the sta- 
tion of President. Santa Anna was immediately afterwards 
appointed to the command of the same army which had de- 
feated him at Perole, and also Governor of Vera Cruz ; and 
subsequently, in May, 1829, was called into Guerrero's 
cabinet as Secretary of War and Marine. 

Spain had not yet surrendered her claims to Mexico, and on 
the 27th of July, 1829, landed a considerable force at Tam- 
pico under command of General Barradas, for the purpose 
of re-subjugating the country. At this crisis, Santa Anna was 
called into the field, and placed in command of the Mexican' 
army, which he immediately marched to Tampico, and, 
after a siege of but a few days, compelled the royal forces 
to capitulate. This was the last attempt of Spain to re- 
establish its authority in Mexico ; and Santa Anna had the 
honour of terminating the war, — by which was achieved 
the independence of his country. 

About this period another revolution broke out under the 
lead of General Bustamente, who had collected a large 
force, pronounced against the government, and succeeded 
in taking captive the usurper Guerrero, who was tried and 
executed for high treason. Bustamente, who had been 
mainly instrumental in deposing the constitutional president 
Pedraza, and elevating Guerrero, was the first to question 
the rights and authority of the latter, and after his over- 
throw, seized the reins of government to himself 

Santa Anna, although the bosom friend, the sworn coun- 
sellor, member of the cabinet and commander of the armies 
of Guerrero, offered no sufficient resistance to the revolu- 
tion, which he might have put down, but, on the contrary, 
soon acquiesced in it. In 1832, again tired of the calm of 



APPENDIX. 433 

peace and the absence of bloodshed, he stirred up another re- 
volution, published his pronunciamento against Bustamente, 
overthrew him, and banished him from the country. And now 
to make his inconsistency consistent, he affected to recall 
the exiled Pedraza, whom a few years before he was the 
first to raise a revolution to overthrow, and set him up a 
living puppet in the presidential chair, the tool of the un- 
blushing traitor and tyrant, to chisel out and execute the 
plans to secure his own election to the presidency of Mex- 
ico. 

In the brief period before the expiration of Pedraza's 
term, Santa Anna, the active director of affairs behind the 
scene, had managed to turn every influence of the govern- 
ment to bear on his election. The people, accustomed to 
violence and misrule, cared little who occupied the presi- 
dential chair, and hoped in the elevation of the leading 
spirit of treason and rebellion, to put an end to the con- 
stant recurrence of civil war and bloodshed, such as had 
hitherto desolated the country at brief intervals ; and if there 
was virtue in the nation sufficient to govern it honestly and 
properly, it did not make its appearance among the aspi- 
rants to the presidential office. 

In 1833 Santa Anna was duly elected and installed Pre- 
sident, and for a few months the people of this ill-starred re- 
public enjoyed a happy repose from the turmoil and deso- 
lation of domestic war. The president had promised before 
his election to sustain the federal constitution, and, at his 
installation, had solemnly sworn to support it and adminis- 
ter the laws of the constitutional congress. He had, at this 
time, collected together a large army near the city of Mex- 
ico, for the avowed purpose of quieting a local revolution ; 
it was arranged with his officers to prepare for military in- 
spection, when the signal should be given on the approach 
of Santa Anna, and the soldiers were to proclaim him dic- 
tator. The arrangements were accordingly made, and at 
the appointed signal, his generals and their obedient soldiers 
28 



^3^ APPENDIX. 

shouted " long live Santa Anna, long live the Dictator of 
Mexico!" But the artifice failed; the majority, with the 
city garrison, were opposed to the movement. Santa Anna, 
to conceal his chagrin and mortification, affected not to 
have known the design of his leaders, and immediately con- 
demned those most zealous in his interest to banishment 
from the country. 

In 1834, by mihtary force, he dissolved the legislative 
council of the government, and effectually overthrew the 
federal constitution of 1824, establishing instead, a central 
mihtary despotism. He deposed governors of departments 
who refused to obey his mandates by force of arms; dis- 
solved refractory state legislations by the same means, and 
directed who should be sent from his subservient depart- 
ments, as members of the house of deputies. 

The inhabitants of Zacatecas and Coahuila and Texas, 
resisted these usurpations and encroachments of this dicta- 
tor of centralism, and refused to comply with his tyrannical 
inhibitions. At the city of Zacatecas, five thousand inhabi- 
tants of the department had determined to defend the con- 
stitution of 1824. They had gathered around the already 
prostrate form of the goddess of liberty, and sworn that the 
plains of Zacatecas should flow with the blood of its brave 
sons before they would surrender to the despot. Santa 
Anna knew the bravery of the Zacatecans, — the best soldiers 
and most patriotic people of Mexico, — and feared to com- 
bat them on fair terms. With his characteristic duplicity 
and subtlety, he affected to quarrel with one of his favourite 
generals, who fled from his ranks, and pretending to join the 
liberal party, sought shelter in Zacatecas. The reputation 
of this oflicer, as a soldier, gained his admission to the army 
which had enlisted in defence of the constitution, and he 
was forthwith placed in command. But no sooner did 
Santa Anna make his appearance before the impregnable 
city of Zacatecas, than this mercenary leader induced the 
constitutional army to leave their secure position in the city 



APPENDIX. 



435 



and encamp in sight of the central forces, possessing twice 
their nunaerical strength. In this position night canne 
on, the horses of the Zacatecans had been purposely sent 
away to graze, and the sentinels withdrawn from their 
posts, when Santa Anna immediately put his troops in mo- 
tion, surrounded the camp of the liberals and attacked them 
at great advantage; a tremendous slaughter ensued, and 
those of the Zacatecans who did not surrender or escape, 
were immediately put to the sword. 

After this inglorious victory on the part of the president, 
his soldiers were turned loose upon the city, and the scene 
that followed baffles description. Beautiful and unoffending 
women were dragged from their couches and violated in 
the public streets ; babes were murdered in their sleep or 
upon their mother's breast. Foreigners were assassinated 
at noon day, and robberies and thefts committed in the most 
fearful and appalling excesses. Zacatecas was thus sub- 
dued and submitted ; and Santa Anna forthwith despatched 
a division of his forces, under General Cos, to Monclova, 
the seat of government of the state of Coahuila and Texas, 
with orders to humble that department, and immediately re- 
turned himself to the city of Mexico. 

General Cos, in obedience to instructions, ordered the po- 
litical authorities of the state to deliver up to the central 
government, the governor of Coahuila and Texas, several 
members of the legislature, and other prominent citizens, 
including some American settlers in Texas. This order 
was disobeyed; and the legislature of Coahuila and 
Texas was thereupon forcibly dissolved, and the governor, 
to avoid arrest, was compelled to escape. The act of state 
confederation was thereby destroyed ; and, to attain the 
climax of military despotism, the arms of the American citi- 
zens, east of the Rio Grande, were ordered to be delivered 
up. These demands were peremptorily refused. The in- 
habitants of Texas, the greater part of whom were nursed 
in the cradles of American liberty, assembled together in 



436 



APPENDIX. 



primary meetings, simultaneously throughout the country, 
and resolved to resist the usurpations of the tyrant. 

General Cos, with an army of fifteen hundred centralists, 
was already in Texas, having reached and entrenched him- 
self in the fortified town of San An tenia de Bexar. From 
thence he sent a detachment of more than 200 strong, under 
command of Col. Castonado, to the town of Gonzales, and 
upon its reaching the opposite bank of the Gaudaloupe,, the 
commander ordered the inhabitants to send him their can- 
non. This they refused to do, but proceeded immediately 
to collect a force to protect it. A small party of Ameri- 
cans — about 100 in number — were soon raised, and the an- 
swer was returned to the Mexican officer, that he could 
have the contents, but not the cannon. The forces, there- 
upon, met, the centralists outnumbering the Americans 
about two to one ; but the action was brief, and resulted in 
the perfect defeat of Castonado, who was compelled, after a 
considerable loss, to retreat to San Antonio, The battle of 
Gonzales has been fitly styled the " Lexington of the Texan 
revolution," and like its great prototype, was the opening of 
the war, and a contest for ordnance. 

The people of Texas, determined not to be subdued with- 
out an effort, at least, to oppose the designs of Santa Anna, 
had already called a convention of deputies from the vari- 
ous districts, and declared themselves in favour of the fed- 
eral constitution of 1824, which they alleged had been sub- 
verted by a mihtary despot — and called on the citizens and 
authorities of the other departments of Mexico, to sustain 
them in the defence of constitutional liberty. Their appeal 
was disregarded, or onl)^ met with opposition ; but, never- 
theless, preparations were made to defend their position, 
and meet the coming shock. 

General Burleson was before the walls of the Alamo, with 
six hundred American federalists, awaiting the progress of 
events, when the brave General Milam, who had just esca- 
ped from the dungeons of the interior, made his appearance 



APPENDIX. 



437 

and called for volunteers to join him, for the purpose of at- 
tacking General Cos, and driving Santa Anna's forces from 
the country. Two hundred and sixteen gallant fellows step- 
ped forth from Burleson's ranks. Milam immediately at- 
tacked the garrison, which occupied the strongly fortified 
public square of Safi Antonia, with fifteen hundred men, 
well armed, and prepared to sustain a siege of six months. 
The deadly American rifle told upon its victim at every dis- 
charge ; the siege lasted for five days and nights, with in- 
cessant labour on the part of the besiegers, when the garri- 
son capitulated, with the loss of more men than were enga- 
ged in the ranks of their victors, and the surrender of sev- 
eral hundred stands of arms, military stores and baggage. 
But the loss of the Texans, though small in number, was ir- 
reparable. The brave Milam was shot through the head, 
and several others were killed and wounded. 

On the arrival of the news of the discomfiture of Cos, at 
the capital, Santa Anna immediately organised his forces 
for the invasion of Texas, and placing himself at the head 
of an army of 10,000 mercenary troops, advanced upon the 
country in the winter of 1836. 

He raised a blood-red flag, and threatened before his re- 
turn to exterminate every American between the Rio Grande 
and Sabine. His army of advance, numbering about six 
thousand, under command of General Sesma, was already 
in the confines of Texas ; Colonel Travis, with only one 
hundred and forty-five Texians, occupied the fortress of the 
Alamo, at San Antonia. This gallant officer immediately 
despatched his messenger to the east, calling on his coun- 
trymen for assistance. The advance forces of Santa Anna 
soon after surrounded the Alamo, and were actually besieg- 
ing the fort. Travis despatched a second messenger, calling 
again for assistance, and closed his appeal with this memo- 
rable language : — 

" The enemy have demanded a surrender at discretion, 



438 



APPENDIX. 



otherwise the garrison is to be put to the sword. I have 
answered his summons with a cannon shot. Qur flag still 
floats proudly from the walls. We shall never surrender 
or retreat. Liberty or death !" 

But prudence dictated rather that "Travis should have 
evacuated the Alamo ; for, to send more men, with the lim- 
ited number then in the ranks of the Texians, was only to 
deliver them to certain sacrifice, and close all chance of 
final success. 

The siege had lasted for six days — the handful of brave 
Texians successfully repulsing every attack of the besiegers, 
when Santa Anna arrived with the remainder of his army, 
numbering about four thousand, and took command of the 
entire force in person. The battle continued for four days 
longer, with still greater fury, until the firing from the Ala- 
mo was nearly silenced. The scaHng ladders were then ap- 
plied to the walls, and two unsuccessful attempts were made 
to pass them ; the Texians repulsing their assailants with the 
butts of their rifles, producing great slaughter. The third 
attempt was more successful, and hundreds of centralists 
poured over the walls ; the Americans fought them with 
terrible desperation, until they were all slain — life oozing out 
of them through the loss of blood, from their numerous 
wounds. Of this little band not a man asked for quarter, 
and in the agonies of death many mortal wounds were in- 
flicted on their foes. The Alamo was taken, but its Spar- 
tan defenders were not conquered ; fifteen hundred of Santa 
Anna's followers were killed in the engagement, being ten 
times the entire number of Texians engaged. ■ The pages of 
history scarcely furnish a parallel in military heroism or 
achievement. Here was a handful of men, assailed by sev- 
enty times their number, sustaining a hopeless siege of ten 
days, without a relaxation of courage or eflTort, until the 
last man had fallen, and every spirit had taken its departure 
from its mangled and bleeding tenement. This was the sa- 



APPENDIX. ^gg 

crificial altar of the Texian revolution ; here fell its bravest 
spirits — Travis, Crockett, Bonham, and Bowie ; the latter, 
by order of Santa Anna, was butchered on his sick couch. 
The ordinary rites of Christian burial were denied the re- 
mains of these brave men — the bodies of the entire number 
were taken outside the walls, thrown together, and burned. 

So intimately connected was the cause, origin, and pro- 
gress of the Texian revolt, with the history of Santa Anna, 
that the author will be readily excused for dwelling more 
•minutely on these events. 

It will be remembered that the revolution began in the 
resistance of several of the eastern provinces of Mexico, 
including Texas, to the military encroachments and civil 
usurpation of Santa Anna. The first convention of the peo- 
ple of Texas, called to consider the state of public affairs, 
declared for the federal constitution, which they had sworn 
to support, and which the president had overthrown — de- 
stroying the fundamental basis of State confederation, and 
the liberty of the States — imprisoning their legislators and 
deposing their governors ; Zacatecas had been cheated, and 
Coahuila had submitted ; and the call of Texas for aid to 
assist in restoring the constitution and the liberty of the na- 
tion, had been disregarded by the friends of federalism in 
Mexico ; Santa Anna with a powerful army was overrun- 
ning the country ; the blood-red flag of total extermination 
was planted in the west; the bravery and valour of Texan 
troops was known; their superiority over their foes had 
been tested. Under these circumstances what impulse was 
wanting to the convention then assembled to induce the step 
they were about to take 1 The causes of resistance and of 
revolution were grievous and insupportable, and fairly chal- 
lenge investigation, not only upon the principles of natural 
or social rights, but comparison with any other revolu- 
tion, in any other age or country. On the second of March, 
1830, Texas was declared " free, sovereign, and indepen- 
dent ;" her citizens pledged their lives and fortunes to sus- 



^4Q APPENDIX-- 

tain that declaration, and the success of their experiment is 
known to the world. 

The next important event in the history of this campaign, 
has left the foulest stain on the name of Santa Anna — a stig- 
ma that can never be erased — the crowning act of infamy 
of his whole life. The Texian volunteers, under Colonel 
Fannin and Captain King, numbering about four hundred, 
capitulated to General Urea, and surrendered themselves as 
prisoners of war, under the written stipulation that they 
should be treated as such ; and in consideration of their ca- 
pitulation and paroles not to take up arms again in the Tex- 
ian war, that general had agreed to convey them to Co- 
pano, on the coast, and embark them on board a vessel 
within eight days, which should land them at New Orleans. 
By order of Santa Anna this convention was violated, and 
these unoffending men, prisoners of war, their lives and re- 
turn to New Orleans guaranteed by a sacred treaty stipula- 
tion, were marched out, knapsacks on, under the impression 
indeed that they were on their way to their homes and their 
families, when they were commanded to halt — the knell of 
death was sounded, and every man, save two surgeons who 
were saved, and several others who escaped, were treach- 
erously shot on the spot. Here was wholesale murder of 
the foulest kind, and whoever may be disposed to overlook 
the previous errors or faults of this man, will scarcely at- 
tempt to excuse or palliate this one, transcending in turpi- 
tude every act of his life. 

The Texian army, under General Houston, at this time 
about twelve hundred strong, was prudently falling back 
upon the eastern settlements, which as yet had furnished 
but a small quota of their fighting-men, in the hope that 
they might secure the advantage of a division of Santa An- 
na's army, and, with an expected accession from the " five 
hundred sleeping rifles on Red river," be enabled to risk an 
engagement, and turn the tide of victory in the opposite di- 
rection. Houston had left the Colorado, and recrossed the 



APPENDIX. 



441 



Brazos ; his troops were becoming dispirited, or impatient 
for a fight; it required all ihe sagacity and firmness of their 
general to prevent desertion on the one hand, or rash and 
imprudent encounters with the Mexicans on the other. In 
the mean time, his spies acquired intelligence of the division 
of Santa Anna's forces, and that the number of one thousand 
men, subsequently reinforced by five hundred additional 
troops, under command of the Mexican chief in person, were 
marching in the direction of San Fillipe. He left small par- 
ties behind him to annoy the enemy, and leave an impres- 
sion of the precipitate retreat of the Texian army. The 
plan succeeded ; Santa Anna pushed on at the head of his 
small division with great rapidity, leaving the larger divi- 
sion, encumbered with the baggage and heavy artillery, far 
behind, expecting soon to plant his eagles on the banks of 
the Sabine. The Texian general prudently concealed from 
his army, as far as possible, his plan of operations, until 
Santa Anna had crossed the Brazos, and was marching to- 
wards Harrisburg ; the Texians, between six and seven hun- 
dred strong, were about thirty miles above him to the north, 
when Houston immediately ordered a rapid march towards 
Buffalo Bayou, indicating his intention to gratify his men 
with an attack upon the enemy. He came up with the Mex- 
icans on the 19th of April, and the next day a skirmish en-' 
sued between the advance and rear guards of the two ar- 
mies. 

On the 31st of April — a day memorable for its important 
results — the armies met at the confluence of Buffalo Bayou, 
and the San Jacinto river ; Santa Anna had greatly the ad- 
vantage of position, with his artillery handsomely posted on 
a commanding hill ; the Texans, with their leader in the 
advance, marched up steadily under the fire of their adver- 
saries, reserving their own until within a few rods of the 
Mexican lines, when they poured forth the contents of their 
deadly and well-aimed rifles, in steady and repeated volleys, 
occasionally throwing themselves on the ground, at the flash 



442 



APPENDIX. 



of the Mexican artillery, to avoid the shot. The lines of 
Santa Anna began very soon to give way ; the well-directed 
bullets of the Americans cut them down in great numbers ; 
his artillery was captured by a bold push of a single gallant 
company. The order of charge was now given by Hous- 
ton, and his men swept over the plain with the besom of 
death. — Seven hundred and twenty Mexicans were slain, 
and six hundred taken prisoners, including Santa Anna, "the 
hero of an hundred battles," the then president of Mexico, 
and commander-in-chief of the invading army. This day 
decided the fate of Texas, and possibly the destiny of the 
Spanish race on the North American continent. 

When the august prisoner was brought into the Texan 
camp he announced himself as " Antonio Lopez de Santa 
Anna, the president of Mexico, who surrenders as your pri- 
soner ;" and remarked to Houston, that he was born to no 
common destiny, who was the conqueror of the Napoleon of 
the south." He further told Houston, that he had " no doubt 
arrangements could be made between them to prevent the 
further effusion of blood, and that would be mutually ad- 
vantageous to Mexico and Texas." Satisfied to make any 
honourable arrangement to terminate the war, and secure 
the independence of the country, Houston convened a coun- 
cil of war, composed of the most sagacious and intelligent 
persons of the army and the government, to hear the pro- 
positions of the captive chief. 

Under different circumstances the Texians would not 
have condescended to treat with the murderer of Fannin's 
men; but their situation was yet far from being safe ; they 
had a small force only — the Mexican army under Filasola, 
numbering about six thousand, was marching to the east, 
#and, to say the least, if the issue was not doubtful, contin- 
gencies might occur to render it so. With these reflections, 
the proposition of Santa Anna was considered ; and it was 
finally agreed, that the division of the Mexican army under 
Filasola should evacuate the country, and the prisoners 



APPENDIX. 443 

taken at San Jacinto, including the captive president, 
be sent to Mexico. The fourth article of the treaty pledged 
the personal and official influence of Santa Anna and seve- 
ral of his officers, on their return to the Mexican capital, 
to procure the acknowledgment of the independence of 
Texas, in the following language : 

" That the President Santa Anna, in his official character 
as chief of the Mexican nation, and the Generals Don Vi- 
cente Filasola, Don Jose Urea, Don Joaquin Ramires de 
Sesma, and Don Antonio Guano, as chiefs of armies, do 
solemnly acknowledge, sanction and ratify the full, entire, 
and perfect independence of Texas, with such boundaries 
as are hereafter set forth and agreed upon for the same. 
And they do solemnly pledge themselves, with all their per- 
sonal and official attributes, to procure, without delay, the 
final and complete ratification and confirmation of this 
agreement, and all the parts thereof, by the proper and legi- 
timate government of Mexico — by the incorporation of the 
same into a solemn and perpetual treaty of amity and com- 
merce, to be negotiated with that government at the city of 
Mexico, by ministers plenipotentiary, to be deputed by the 
government of Texas for this purpose." 

In accordance with this treaty, and subsequent arrange- 
ments, the Mexican troops evacuated Texas ; the prisoners 
were sent home, including Santa Anna, who was escorted 
as far as Washington City, (D. C.,) where he proposed a 
conference with General Jackson, in reference to the final 
adjustment of the differences with the new Republic. At 
this interview, nothing definite was agreed on, nor did any 
thing transpire to indicate a disposition on the part of Santa 
Anna not to fulfil, faithfully and exactly, every obligation 
he had voluntarily contracted with the government of Tex- 
as. On his return to Mexico, hoA'exer, he announced 
to the world his intention to disregard the convention 
he had entered into with "Mr. Houston," as he styled 
the victor of San Jacinto, albeit he had conquered the 



444 APPENDIX. 

"Napoleon of the south ;" and pleaded as an excuse, the 
doctrine, that obligations contracted by an individual under 
duress were absolutely void. 

It vvras unnecessary for Santa Anna to have interposed this 
plea ; his habitual disregard of all obligations, his well- 
known treachery, on so many previous occasions, would 
have furnished the best excuse for the exercise of the same 
characteristics without protesting a falsehood before the 
world. It was a voluntary proposition on his part, and he 
entered into the stipulations contained in the fourth article 
of the treaty without the least compulsion ; and, in order to 
take away all colour of duress, he was informed that his 
life would be spared, and his liberty restored — the only con- 
ditions being, that his forces, then in the country, be order- 
ed to evacuate. 

Bustamente, who had been previously expatriated, took 
advantage of these misfortunes of his fallen enemy, and his 
absence from the presidential chair, which was filled in the 
mean time by a president, ad interim, and returning imme- 
diately to Mexico, excited a popular movement against 
Santa Anna, and was, without opposition, elected president. 

The second administration of Bustamente was quite as 
unpopular as the first; several pronunciamentos and revolu- 
tions transpired in the interior, and serious difficulties me- 
naced the country from without. The French squadron, 
commanded by the venerable admiral Baudin, had block- 
aded the port of Vera Cruz. In these emergencies the mi- 
litary talents of Santa Anna could scarcely be dispensed 
with ; in accordance with orders, he therefore gathered a 
considerable force, and, after putting down the domestic re- 
volutions, and quieting the interior, marched to Vera Cruz, 
took the command of the Mexican forces of the department, 
and prepared to defend the city. The castle of San Juan 
de Uloa, however, fell into the hands of the enemy ; but the 
French were less successful on the main shore, having been 
repulsed with considerable loss by Santa Anna, in an action, 



APPENDIX. 44g 

in which he received a severe vt^ound in his leg, which 
eventually rendered it necessary to amputate that limb. ' 

The difficulties with France were soon settled, but not 
without a perfect compliance with the just demands of Louis 
Philippe. Santa Anna, by his valour on this occasion, ac- 
quired the title of " Hero of Vera Cruz ;" and in the eyes of 
Mexicans, had quite effaced the disgrace of his defeat at 
San Jacinto. After this affair he left the army, and pru- 
dently remained in retirement at Manga de Clavo, refusing 
to join in the lesser revolutions that were constantly trans- 
piring, until one of great magnitude occurred in 1841, in 
the department of Gaudalajara. In this movement he joined, 
and bent all his influence and energy against the govern- 
ment, which was overthrown, and Bustamente again driven 
into exile. 

By the adoption of the plan of Tacubaya, and the guaran- 
tees of La Estanzuela, the new constitution of 1836 was 
abolished, and Santa Anna declared dictator, with the ne- 
cessary powers for reorganizing the national government. 
Under this administration the capitulation of the Santa Fe 
expedition occurred — an expedition fitted out by the mer- 
chants of Texas for peaceful purposes, and in compliance 
with an invitation from the authorities of the department of 
Santa Fe, to visit that capital, for the purpose of trade, and 
to establish friendly commercial relations with the country. 
The expedition, which had gone prepared to defend itself 
against the numerous Camanches, who infested the route, as 
it approached Santa Fe, worn down by fatigue, and ex- 
hausted from hunger, was met by a considerable force under 
Governor Armijo and betrayed into a capitulation, or con- 
vention, by which they (the members of the expedition) 
agreed to surrender their arms, to prevent the hostility of 
the Mexicans, who, it was pretended, suspected their friendly 
purposes; and, when the trading should be accomplished, 
and they were ready to leave the province, it was solemnly 
stipulated, that their arms should be returned. But no sooner 



446 



APPENDIX. 



were the Texians disarmed, than Governor Armijo made 
them his prisoners, appropriating to himself their merchan- 
dise, and sending them, under strong escort, with great des- 
patch, and on foot, towards the city of Mexico, distant some 
two thousand miles. Of the sufferings of these men, and the 
inhuman cruelty of their captors while on their march, the 
world is familiar; they reached their destination, and were 
immediately doomed to the most degrading servitude ; some 
of them, chained to African and Mexican convicts, were 
compelled to work on the streets, by order of the very man 
who was indebted to the mercy and magnanimity of the 
same people for his hfe and Hberty, and who was treated by 
them, after his misfortune at San Jacinto, with every atten- 
tion and kindness consistent with his safety and detention 
as a prisoner of war. 

By means of the extraordinary exertions of the American 
and other ministers at Mexico, and in consequence of the 
personal solicitations of Messrs. Jackson and Clay, and seve- 
ral other prominent gentlemen of the United States, Santa 
Anna was induced to liberate these unoffending and unfor- 
tunate men, who immediately returned to their country after 
an absence of nearly two years. 

The Yucatan revolt broke out in 1841, and continued until 
that province dictated its own terms of submission to the 
government of Santa Anna, which was unable to subdue 
them. 

In the fall of 1842, a Mexican foray was made upon the 
defenceless town of San Antonio, (Texas) by 1,300 Mexicans 
under General Woll, and several citizens were captured and 
carried off, including the officers and attendants of the District 
Court, then in session. This expedition was unauthorized 
by the government of Mexico, but consisted of freebooting 
ranclieros, headed by an individual who held a commission 
and was allured with his followers into the Texian settle- 
ment by the hope of pillage. General Houston, then Presi- 
dent of Texas, ordered out 800 volunteers and militia to 



APPENDIX. 447 

rendezvous at San Antonio on the 27th of October, in obe- 
dience to public sentiment, to chastise the insolence of the 
Mexican invaders. Brigadier-general Summerville, of the 
western brigade, was entitled to the command of the forces 
raised or sent into his district, and the lead of the troops 
was accordingly entrusted to him. On^ his arrival in the 
west, he found the army filled with aspirants to the com- 
mand, whose aim it was to raise an excitement against him 
and deprive him of his station. Disregarding the disaffec- 
tion and disorganization, incident to the various quarrels 
that occurred on this subject, he marched his forces to the 
Rio Grande and took possession of the town of Loredo. 
Before his arrival at this point, numerous appearances of 
mutiny were manifested ; and after retiring from the town, 
upwards of two hundred soldiers left his encampment, re- 
turned to Lorado, and pillaged its inhabitants of every thing 
valuable they could find and carry off. 

This occurrence, so disgraceful to the expedition — so in- 
consistent with its legitimate objects, and derogatory to the 
character of the government, which sought to chastise, and 
not imitate the atrocities of their pillaging enemies, exhi- 
bited the wild character and reckless designs of so many of 
the volunteers, that General Summerville, ascertaining that 
the inhabitants of the Rio Grande frontier were too poor to 
afford the necessary sustenance to his expedition, and that 
his forces were too small and illy provided with munitions 
of war to penetrate the interior, and accomplish his only 
legitimate duty, immediately ordered his troops to with- 
draw from the vicinity, and, accordingly, a retrograde 
movement was commenced towards San Antonia. 

At this junctui'c, the excitement became very great; and 
the clamours of the men were so universal, that a council 
of officers was called to decide the immediate course of the 
expedition. A fcv/ of the troops, disgusted with what had 
already transpired, and feeling themselves disgraced by the 
conduct of many of their associates, insisted upon returning 



448 APPENDIX. 

to their homes ; but by far the greater number of them, 
either panting to distinguish themselves in daring adven- 
ture, or intoxicated with the taste of Mexican " beauty and 
booty," so easily obtained, were equally anxious to continue 
their march through the sparse settlements of the Rio 
Grande. The latter disposition prevaihng in the council of 
officers, a division of the troops was ordered, and those pre- 
ferring to return to the interior, were permitted to do so ; 
and the remainder immediately took up their march in the 
direction of Guerero, with no higher hopes than those in- 
spired by a desire for desperate and rash adventure ; or more 
certain or definite object of greater importance, than plun- 
dering a few contemptibly weak and extremely impover- 
ished Mexican villages. 

Guerero, with its population of men, women, and chil- 
dren, scarcely exceeding in numbers the belligerent expedi- 
tion itself, was soon besieged, and a contribution levied upon 
its trembling and poverty-stricken citizens, — who hastily 
yielded up their propitiation of rags, and their rotes of 
ransom; the more opulent (if the term can be used) sent 
their best horses richly caparisoned, as propitiatory presents 
to the officers, begging them to prevent a recurrence of 
robbery, such as occurred at Loredo. The horses, of 
course, were received on the proposed terms ; but the limit- 
ed relief furnished the men did not satisfy them, and a re- 
newed discontent was exhibited. Some of the leaders of 
the expedition, apparently indulging in the poetic visions of 
glory incident to an imaginary brilliant career, and others 
elated with the easy conquest of the affi'ighted denizens of 
Loredo and Guerero, determined to proceed to Meir, a town 
of more importance. 

Here, Summerville became again disgusted with the oc- 
currences of the march, which he foresaw and feared, at 
Loredo, and deeming it imprudent to encounter a force of 
ten times his number in a strange country, which was on 
its march to Mier, and having but a very limited supply of 



APPENDIX. 449 

ammunition, determined to order a return to the Texas 
frontier. It would be supererogatory to discuss the pro- 
priety of this order in so plain a case ; it was given, how- 
ever, but to be disregarded by the greater part of the com- 
mand. Summerville, with upwards of one hundred follow- 
ers, took up his march for San Antonio, while the residue 
of the force, numbering about two hundred and seventy 
men, remained behind, the doomed victims of their own 
folly, rashness, and insubordination. A commander was 
chosen for this little band, and it was soon determined to 
attack Meir, and levy a contribution of five thousand dol- 
lars on its inhabitants ; the money was immediately demand- 
ed, and on the alcalde's offering the sum of one hundred and 
seventy-three dollars, as all he was able to raise, it was 
promptly decided to enter the town, which they had once 
evacuated, and enforce the contribution, if at the risk of an 
engagement with Ampudia, who, it was understood, then 
occupied the place with several hundred men. 

On the evening of the 25th December, the attempt was 
made ; and a dark and rainy night found the little band 
of intrepid adventurers forcing its way, by slow degrees, 
against the constant fire of the enemy, to a position which 
it could occupy with safety and without fear, from the 
discharge of Ampudia's ordnance. This was accomplish- 
ed with several severe skirmishes and attacks, which re- 
sulted in dispersing the Mexicans and driving them to 
safer quarters, when the firing of the Texians was re- 
served until morning. At early dawn the fight was re- 
commenced on both sides with greater desperation. The 
Mexicans bringing their ordnance to bear upon the build- 
ings in which the Texians were posted, and their officers, 
leading column after column up to the attack, were cut 
down at every advance, by the deadly discharge of the 
American rifle. The action continued in this way for some 
time, until Ampudia sent a white flag to the Texians, offer- 
ing them the choice of capitulation. The proposition was 
29 



450 



APPENDIX. 



entertained, and, after some consideration, accepted— the 
Texians having exhausted their ammunition in a severe en- 
gagement against twelve times their number and several 
pieces of artillery; twelve of them were killed and eighteen 
wounded, while the loss of Ampudia was estimated at from 
five to six hundred. 

The government of Texas was not responsible for either 
the disaster or the improprieties of this expedition. The 
original draft of men and volunteers was sufficiently large 
to have accomplished the object, and a successful descent 
might have been made upon the garrisoned towns. But in 
volunteers and miUtia forces, there always will be discon- 
tents, and jealousies, and aspirations ; in this instance these 
elements were in greater strength and more active than 
usual. There were, in the expedition, a large number of 
ambitious and disaffected men who had failed to distinguis^h 
themselves on previous occasions, and who, having nothing 
to do and nothing to make at home, were ready for all kinds 
of peril or adventure ; others were gentlemen, and men of 
high and honourable feelings, Who had been for some time 
out of employment, and their circumstances, perhaps neces- 
sities, drew them into the camp ; while others still, and very 
many, were only actuated by a desire to rob the rich 
churches of Mexico and plunder and destroy private pro- 
perty. 

In a few days the prisoners were on their march for 
the strong prisons of the interior. On one occasion, in 
the course of their journey, they rose upon their guard, 
killed several of them, seized their arms, and were success- 
ful in making a temporary escape; but were again com- 
pelled, from hunger and fatigue, and the want of ammuni- 
tion, to surrender to a party in pursuit. The punishment 
for this offence was deferred until directions from Santa 
Anna should be received. When the intelhgence of their 
capture reached him, his first order was, that every man 
should be shot; this, however, was subsequently relaxed,^ 



APPENDIX. 45J 

through the protests and influence of the American and se- 
veral foreign ministers, to every tenth man ; and in obe- 
dience to th© latter determination, seventeen of the prison- 
ers — victims of their own original imprudence and the ven- 
geance of the Dictator — were drawn by lot from the rest 
and shot. 

The confinement and treatment imposed on the survivors, 
was severe and cruel in the extreme. But Santa Anna 
finally released the entire number, in obedience to the gen- 
erous influence of the foreign representatives at the Mexi- 
can capital, and the better impulses of his own heart, and 
permitted them, after more than a year's captivity, to return 
to their homes. 

In 1843, a new constitution was formed in Mexico, en- 
titled the " Bases of political organization of the Mexican 
Republic," establishing the office of president, with extra- 
ordinary powers. Santa Anna was elected to the new 
office, and, resigning his dictatorship, installed the second 
time as president on the 1st of January, 1844. 

Scarcely a year had elapsed after his inauguration, be- 
fore another revolution broke out in Guadalajara, under the 
lead of General Paredes. The failure of Santa Anna to put 
on foot a proposed expedition against Texas, rendered his 
administration assailable, and his opponents taking advan- 
tage of this circumstance, and alleging various usurpations 
in the exercise of his official functions as president, were 
successful in getting together a large force to put down his 
sovernment. The movement of the revolutionists was so 
formidable, that Santa Anna fearing it w^ould require extra- 
ordinary exertions to check it, in open violation of the con- 
stitutional inhibition — which declares that the president shall 
not command the army in person — f)ut himself at the head 
of the government troops, and leaving his principal minis- 
ter, Canahzo, to manage affairs at the capital, proceeded 
with great despatch from Jalapa to Queretero, to give battle 



452 APPENDIX. -^ i^i»> f' ;' j;. 

to Paredes and arrest tjie progress of the revolt. -Du- 
ring his absence, the departments nearest the capital, inclu-^ 
ding Vera Cruz, became disaffected, and joined in the re- 
volution. No exertions of Canalizo could arrest its fear- ., 
ful progress, while Santa Anna was induced to fall back 
towards the city of Mexico, and was finally, after seve- 
ral manceuvres and engagements, compelled to surren- 
der to the forces of General Herera, who had already ta- 
ken possession of the government, and was seated in the 
presidential chair. The administration, in debating what 
disposition should be made of the fallen chief, were not long 
in coming to the determination to banish him from the coun- 
try. His private property was respected, and that which 
had been seized restored ; and, under a strong escort, he was 
taken to the coast and embarked on board a British vessel 
for Havana, under a sentence of ten years' banishment from 
the country. 

This rapid review of the life of Santa Anna, and the prin- 
cipal events of his administrations in Mexico, embrace only 
his most prominent deeds, and the occurrences which trans- 
pired during his career, without interspersing the narrative 
with very many important incidents in his private life, which 
would go very far to illustrate the character of the man,, 
and afford ample materials for interesting discussion. The 
object of the present biographical sketch, is merely to en- 
lighten the American public upon the state of politics and 
morals, and the general history of the constantly recurring 
revolutions of Mexico, with a rapid outline of the military 
history of the young republic of Texas. The career of 
Santa Anna has been so intimately connected with all these 
topics, that the author has deemed himself excusable for in- 
corporating a brief and comprehensive outline of Mexican 
and Texian political history, in this sketch of the life of this 
very prominent actor in both these highly interesting dra- 
mas. 

The reader has been generally left to form his own esti- 



APPENDIX. 453 

mate of character, from a plain narrative of the facts. 
There are doubtless many good points in the Character of 
Santa Anna, which other circumstances might have deveF- 
oped to his advantage and credit. But, placed as he has 
been upon the theatre of Mexican revolution, and surround- 
ed by numerous ambitious and corrupt aspirants to the same 
office he sought and attained, we can the more readily ex- 
cuse a large share of his faults, that would present a very 
different aspect if enacted under other circumstances, and 
among a more civilized people. No traits are more com- 
mon, or so necessary to success in politics or war in Mexi- 
co, as duplicity, intrigue and cunning. The state of civiliza- 
tion, and other circumstances, compel the successful aspi- 
rant to civic or military honours to resort to means and 
management that would excite the horror, or contempt and 
indignation, of more enlightened and virtuous communities. 
The condition of the lower orders is not removed above 
that of the slaves of our Southern States ; and the morals 
of the greater portion of them are far more deplorable. 
Although by the constitution all distinction of classes and 
colour is stricken down, yet the peons who labour on the 
large haciendas, or estates, are in a state of servitude much 
more degrading than the African slaves of our country ; 
they are not the subject of bargain and sale it is true, but 
are beaten and driven by task-masters, and compelled to 
harder labour, and less comfortably fed and clothed. 

For the amount of general intelligence, and the extent of 
the wealth and commercial intercourse of the middle class- 
es, there is more licentiousness and vice than in any other 
country on the globe. The Catholic church has no where 
so corrupt a priesthood; it is the policy of this class, and the 
rich, to keep the lower orders in ignorance, in order that 
they may prostitute them to subserve their selfish and un- 
worthy purposes. There are probably not five thousand fe- 
males, out of the population of eight millions, who can read 
and write ; and female chastity is only known, and not uni- 



454 



APPENDIX, 



versal among the higher orders. Priest and poKtician, no 
matter how high in the clerical ojfRce, or in civil station, are 
permitted to keep their mistresses, and society smiles at the 
most unbridled licentiousness in all classes of persons. The 
robberies that so often occur on their highways and moun- 
tains, are often set on foot by wealthy and influential per- 
sons, or perhaps an aspiring political chief. 

While this state of pubHc morals furnishes great palliation 
for many of the errors, and what Americans would denom- 
inate crimes of Santa Anna, and leaves but little to choose 
between him and most of his rivals for station in that coun- 
try, it abundantly proves the incapacity of the people for 
self-government. Ignorance and virtue are never hand- 
maids ; and, where the former exists in a republic, populai* 
liberty will degenerate into licentiousness. The leaders of 
the federal movement of 1824, intoxicated with the success 
of the repubhcan experiment in the United States, and with 
the doors of promotion, to the highest stations of the coun- 
try, open to so many, were induced to imagine that they had 
only to write a constitution, and set the wheels of the gov- 
ernment in motion, and the machine would move itself and 
the nation, peacefully and prosperously on, with no further 
trouble. In this they were greatly mistaken. Past expe- 
rience has abundantly shown that great revolutions must be 
the work of time. The people of Mexico had been oppress- 
ed for three hundred years, and kept in the most abject ig- 
norance and absolute slavery. It was impossible to change 
their habits in a day, or to enlighten them in a single hour, so 
as to enable them to make laws and govern themselves. 
Iturbide was calculated to render Mexico prosperous, en- 
lightened and happy. Under his administration the people 
might have been prepared for any change. Santa Anna 
also, undoubtedly, properly appreciated the wants of the 
nation, and ambitious to place himself at its head, long since 
contemplated the establishment of imperial government, and 
with great confidence looked forward to the period when he 



APPENDIX. 



455 



should wear the diadem of the emph'e. He is a great sol- 
dier without doubt, and a statesman of no ordinary sagaci- 
ty ; and, however badly he has conducted himself, in the 
commission of several great and unpardonable crimes, there 
is much doubt whether any other man can be found among 
his countrymen at this time, so well calculated to govern 
them as a monarch. 

The constant recurrence of civil war will soon open a 
way for his return from exile, and it is yet possible he may 
again be at the head of the nation, either as the president 
of the republic, or the emperor of Mexico. 



THE END. 



. • 



m 



x 



Bi*^ 
















,1111 
■i 















:;i>..j)i' 




'0m 

■■■■ ■' . I' I'l,' ■,■'' 






